Author Topic: What are the indicators to replaced a clutch on a auger???? (Read 3384 times)

BUCKSKI · « **on:** Sep 15, 2008, 01:48 PM »

At the end of last year and cutting many holes, my auger started to hang up while cutting holes. Sometimes it could be realted to drillig a less than plumb hole.
I thinking that the clutch is starting to go.
I bought this auger used and have run it for 2 years.

I have seen the clutch kits on the companies web-site.
The questions I have are:
* Does the clutch need to be replaced?
* is it difficult to change the clutch
* do you have to used Strikemater parts or tecumseh partsfrom any small engine dealer.

miket. · « **Reply #1 on:** Sep 15, 2008, 08:50 PM »

check your blades instead, try replacing them , it might do the trick. it fixed a similar problem with mine.

BUCKSKI · « **Reply #2 on:** Sep 16, 2008, 08:28 AM »

Mike I have a chipper 10 inch and bladed 8 hole. I don't really think its the blade, its new not the original and ice flies when I have cut holes in the past.

dkfry · « **Reply #3 on:** Sep 16, 2008, 09:47 AM »

I would pull the motor from the gearbox and inspect the clutch. The shoes could have gotten glazed over or you could have gotten some grease or oil on the shoes or drum somehow. Clutches usually last a while however an auger is tough on clutches. If the clutch looks good you could scuff up the drum and shoes with sandpaper degrease and put it back together. You'll probably need a special tool to remove the clutch. I've made clutch removal tools for other enignes already.

beeverfishing · « **Reply #4 on:** Sep 16, 2008, 07:22 PM »

I also think it is most likely your blades. The clutch is designed to let the engine start and idle with out applying torque to the blade and to apply torque when a predetermined engine speed is attained. If your auger blade hangs up and your engine speed remains high, or rev's up, (slipping clutch) or if the engine has starting /idling problems due to the load of the auger blade wanting to turn (sticking clutch) , then I'd suspect the clutch. Less then plumb holes and hanging up is common to blade problems. ..JMO

duck doctor · « **Reply #5 on:** Sep 16, 2008, 08:05 PM »

sharpen your blades and try to avoid ice build up between holes. I would not recommend tearing it apart until you try the blades first. Also, don't put too much "down" pressure on the auger. You could be overloading it. Let the auger do the work, just like a hand drill.

BOOBSS · « **Reply #6 on:** Sep 16, 2008, 09:28 PM »

Hey Buckski I"d hold up on pulling the clutch as its not uncommon to hang an auger on late season ice.

jayswimmer09 · « **Reply #7 on:** Sep 16, 2008, 09:33 PM »

i highly doubt its the clutch after 2 years. check your blades!!

miket. · « **Reply #8 on:** Sep 16, 2008, 09:35 PM »

you would be very surprised,check the blades. what it looks like always isn:t so.

jayswimmer09 · « **Reply #9 on:** Sep 16, 2008, 09:37 PM »

the problem isnt always if the blades are sharp, its probably the angle they are at. If you bang the auger down on the ice much at all then it bend the blades and if they get bent the slightest amount they wont cut

beeverfishing · « **Reply #10 on:** Sep 16, 2008, 09:49 PM »

Quote from: jayswimmer09 on Sep 16, 2008, 09:37 PM

the problem isnt always if the blades are sharp, its probably the angle they are at. If you bang the auger down on the ice much at all then it bend the blades and if they get bent the slightest amount they wont cut

Yep, that was my problem. Kept drilling slanted holes and couldn't figure out why..changed the blades even though they were sharp.. worked good as new !!
I now know not to bang the blades on the ice !!

miket. · « **Reply #11 on:** Sep 16, 2008, 09:53 PM »

yep , and also drilling partially down and leaving the auger in the ice can do some damage. i see this all the time and problems also occuring

dkfry · « **Reply #12 on:** Sep 17, 2008, 09:51 AM »

Quote from: jayswimmer09 on Sep 16, 2008, 09:33 PM

i highly doubt its the clutch after 2 years. check your blades!!

He bought the auger used, and used it 2 years. Could be an old auger.

A 10" chipper is going to be killer on the clutch however chippers tend to hang up a bit, especially with a large auger. Seperating the Auger from the gearbox is easy and not that time consuming. I'd at least have a look.

1TIGGER · « **Reply #13 on:** Sep 17, 2008, 11:20 AM »

Had the same issue with my 10" last season .
I had to reset the fuel air mixture , all it was doing was binding when I tried to drill but ran at idol fine .
Once the fuel / air mixture was set it didn't load up and drilled fine .
Mine is 8 years old and the clutches are still fine .
You could also check the muffler to see if it has a spark arrestor , if it does it can plug the screen with carbon and unspent fuel and oil and that will do what youre talking about .

dkfry · « **Reply #14 on:** Sep 17, 2008, 07:03 PM »

Your lucky you had needles on your carb to adjust. My Jiffy 2hp is around 4-5 years old and has a garbage carb with no adjustment on it. If it gives me trouble its getting tossed in place of a dual needle carb.

BUCKSKI · « **Reply #15 on:** Sep 19, 2008, 02:21 PM »

Well I would have to say that the auger has not been banged around and the auger is in good shap.
It did happen during last ice, but only near the bottom of the hole.
The auger motor/clutch is 2 years old and is in good shape.
I guess I will have the clutch pulled and new clutch put on.

I was trying to avoid replacing the clutch during prime ice time.

So nobody has a way to indicate if the clutch needs to be replaced unless you are cutting holes?

dkfry · « **Reply #16 on:** Sep 19, 2008, 03:52 PM »

Its not uncommon to catch the auger at the bottom of the hole, especially with larger 9" and 10" drills. Clutch is probably fine if its only 2 years old, thought it was over 2 YO because you bought it used 2 years ago.

BUCKSKI · « **Reply #17 on:** Sep 22, 2008, 10:11 AM »

I have had it for 2years and it was a used unit (1or 2 years)
I bought it from a guy who probably buzzed less than 100 holes with it.

So nobody has a way to indicate if the clutch is going without either taking it apart or buzzing holes with it??

MrMarty51 · « **Reply #18 on:** Sep 22, 2008, 11:07 AM »

If the engine idles and the auger does not spin then the clutch is not hanging up.
If the engine idles and the auger is spinning then the clutch is hanging up.
If the engine revs excessively while drilling and the auger quits turning then it is the clutch.
If the auger quits turning and it bogs the engine down like it is pulling more than a full load then it is not the clutch.

beeverfishing · « **Reply #19 on:** Sep 22, 2008, 08:05 PM »

Quote from: MrMarty51 on Sep 22, 2008, 11:07 AM

If the engine idles and the auger does not spin then the clutch is not hanging up.
If the engine idles and the auger is spinning then the clutch is hanging up.
If the engine revs excessively while drilling and the auger quits turning then it is the clutch.
If the auger quits turning and it bogs the engine down like it is pulling more than a full load then it is not the clutch.

Thats pretty much what I said...

BUCKSKI · « **Reply #20 on:** Sep 23, 2008, 12:27 PM »

Or your idle screw is not properly tuned.

I'll take that as a NO

Thanks 4 O

Tomhusker · « **Reply #21 on:** Oct 25, 2008, 12:04 AM »

Quote from: MrMarty51 on Sep 22, 2008, 11:07 AM

If the engine idles and the auger does not spin then the clutch is not hanging up.
If the engine idles and the auger is spinning then the clutch is hanging up.
If the engine revs excessively while drilling and the auger quits turning then it is the clutch.
If the auger quits turning and it bogs the engine down like it is pulling more than a full load then it is not the clutch.

That ^

News:

Author Topic: What are the indicators to replaced a clutch on a auger???? (Read 3384 times)