Trout Rods

[iceman1]

I was wondering what size rod,reel and line you guys use to catch laker's and rainbows. I have always used tip up for them and I was considering trying jigging. Any info would be great.

[Grizzly1]

I like med or med/hvy rod's because of the size potential here, I would take the size potential of the fish in your area and let that dictate the action of the rod.  I do all my fishing outside and not in an ice house presently so prefer longer rods in the 32" to 42" range, if I were ice house fishing it would be in the 28"-34" range.  I've had real good luck useing St Croix rods, custom until recently and the premier presently.

Let us know what you decided to purchase

[iceman1]

I think I'm going to go with the 28" rod because of my shanty. I'm not sure what brand I want yet but I will find something here pretty quick.

[PGKris]

Get a light/ultralight action unless you're catching rainbows bigger than 5 pounds. I used to use a 28" medium and I just bought a 22" light and the difference is night and day. You will catch more fish and feel more bites on a lighter action rod. Don't be afraid to go light unless the fish are BIG. I run 4lb test. For lakers, well, obviously, go bigger.

[brown-time]

Like Grizzly I like longer ice rods, usually 32" and with 1 medium and 1 medium heavy.  I think my new Frabill Ultras are as sensitive as my St. Croix Avids, maybe more, and can set the hook on a large brown.rbt better than a light rod.

[BottomDweller]

about the most readily available rod that i've found that fills the bill is a Genz Sticks black 34' med-heavy rod
(model #GGZ----).  it has a trigger grip on the bottom to keep it tight and straight up and down in your hands for the big fish hits; while possessing enough backbone to haul in those 20 and 30+ lbers, it is sensitive enough to feel the slight bites and have fun on the small guys too.
      the best reel you can put on it to prepare for the laker-lunkers is definitely a baitcaster line-leveling reel made by shimano or okuma in size 20 (ask your dealer, he'll know how to order that size), and put 12-18 lb fluorocarbon line (my current favorite is P-Line) on it -- fluorocarbon has almost no stretch even at extremely deep levels of water to help with the all-important hookset.  there are low-budget to high-buget, low-quality to high-quality reels out there.  you should probably spend about $75 at the least --  remember the line-level, and the smaller "20" size: any bigger and you've got a trolling reel on a little 34" rod that messes up the balance.  and then think of how you are most comfortable casting and retrieving other baits, and fish also, and buy a reel with the crank on the corresponding side.  my first choice is always shimano, but to save money and still get a quality reel, go okuma.
    good luck

[ULTRAlite]

Quote from: PGKris on Dec 18, 2006, 10:01 PM
Get a light/ultralight action unless you're catching rainbows bigger than 5 pounds. I used to use a 28" medium and I just bought a 22" light and the difference is night and day. You will catch more fish and feel more bites on a lighter action rod. Don't be afraid to go light unless the fish are BIG. I run 4lb test. For lakers, well, obviously, go bigger.

That's my thoughts exactly. I like the light setup w/ 4 lb test because the jig is more responsive, you notice super light bites, and it's easier to set the hook. If your getting into a lot of bigger fish step it up to a 28 in med w/ 6lb. One trick I use for bigger fish on light tackle is to leave the drag light. Let the fish take a few runs and strip line when he wants, it will be easier to ice him w/out snapping your line at the hole. In my opinion it is funnest to catch them on the lightest tackle possible, that goes for open water fishing to.

I do the same for rainbows - 4lb test on an ultra - light rod as the name suggests....

[brown-time]

The reason I use medium and medium heavy action, but super sensitive rods is because when dead-sticked I use Mr. Jigger rocker stands, which are as sensitive to bites as it gets, even more than the UL spring bobbers. The slightly stiffer rods get a way better hookset.  Maybe just 1 in 20 trout are bigger, 4plus , but with the wimpy rods I lost too many big fish half way in because of line stretch or a poor hookset.  No more, also use Power Pro line/fluoro leader to reduce this line stretch.  Rarely lose big fish any more.

[dabluz]

I agree with "brown-time".  Wimpy rods are not recommended for brook trout.  They do have a hard mouth.  Finding a very light, sensitive yet very fast almost stiff rod is difficult.  For fishing through the ice without a cabin, I use the rods I regularly use during the summer.  I use 2 to 4 lb test mono because the water the brook trout are rarely any deeper than 15 feet.  Yet, in lakes where the main forage is smelt, I often fish in 40 to 60 feet of water.  I use 6 lb test Fireline and a mono leader of 4 lb test mono.

I use no 8 Gamakatsu black Octopus hooks or VMC eyeless hooks size 10 that I buy in Europe and the smallest split shot about 24 inches above the baited hook.  If I can, I do not use a sinker.

When I set up my rod, I open the bail on my reel and slip a loop of the line under an elastic band wrapped around the rod handle.  This way, the fish can take line and move off to swallow the bait.

I often raise the rod tip of the rod to give movement to the bait.  For bait, I use the head of a large nightcrawler and thread the hook just through the skin of the bait because I want the bait to move on it's own.  No need to hide the point of the hook.  If you feel you must hide the point of the hook, then use a larger hook.