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I’ve an XFD13 which is only 440 in.lbs. of torque I guess. It was a Slickdeal I couldn’t pass up. Was planning on still drilling 8” holes. Might need to rethink things. Thanks!
The distance between the blades and where the drill connects is only about 25”. Do I need an extension? Not really for cutting through more than 2 feet of ice but to make things easier on my back. Any suggestions?
This should do the trick https://shop.clamoutdoors.com/drill-auger-extension.html
Thanks. Dumb question: does this work if I don’t use/have the Clam plate?
Finally got some ice in central MA to give the new setup a try. The Eskimo hand auger blades are shaver blades and it kinda walks some when you start. With the side handle firmly against my leg I gotta go real slow to start and keep going slowly as you drill the hole. Go too fast and it bounces around in the hole. Maybe it'll be better in thicker ice. The hammer driver/drill (setting 1 in drill mode (not hammer)) goes WAY too fast and when it goes through I have a hard time pulling the blades back out of the drilled hole. Drilled 10 or so holes (only 3" of ice) at an outside temp of 9 degrees and the battery was still at full charge. Confirmed when I got home. Is this typical when using shaver auger blades?
Its not the shaver blades so much as the lack of a center point..causing the skipping on glare ice ..also hand augers are notorious with break through issues and grabbing the bottom of the hole due to no centering/break through ring .Its a learning curve ..after some time you will get the hang of it ..Rule one wear ice cleats steady footing is key ..you will have to go slow till the blades grip then off to the races ..till the break through . I tried a 8" SM Mora hand auger with a Milwaukee 2804-22..nope not for me . An auger with a center point is a must for me ..as well as the Clam Plate.What is your exact set up from top to bottom again. Clam Plate ? Extension? Your drill/battery combo the right specifications?