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Why would you need an ultralight drill auger if your fishing in a cabin on the ice all day lol..
I don't understand why they tell you to do that, I never have and it's not been a problem
Because I also fish mobile and I don't want two augers. I have the same kit for fishing mobile that I do for the hardside. Nothing stays in my hardside because it all gets stolen all the time, it comes off the ice every night and I want a nice light auger. Someday when you are more experienced at fishing you might understand lol
Oh, so because you fish from a "hardside" or Shanty as the rest of the world knows them as, im not as experienced as you..Huh who knew.. Here i thought i didnt fish from a shanty because i dont like sitting on my duff in the same spot all day..Im sure everyone who buys the kdrill does so because they fish from "hardsides" and have to reopen holes regularly lol.. Or maybe, just maybe, thats a small percentage of the owners, and most use them just like every other drill auger out there. But again, what do i know.
LOL! lighten up buddy, it's a dumb forum. Relax, maybe you'll enjoy yourself! Lol
It's no secret that a shaver type blade is less agressive and will drill more holes on a battery charge than a chipper blade. Speed and number of holes drilled shoudn't be the only deciding factors. You need to consider weight (8" vs 8" and whether or not you will be using a clam plate) you need to consider redrilling old holes and maybe using it on dirty ice and how much of ice you are drilling (extension). This guy does a good jog of doing a simple demo and describing the pros/cons of each. There are instances when a shave blade is preferred and others when a chipper works better. If you are looking to save a few bucks and just want to make some holes, I think the best value is a good ol hand auger with a drill attachment and device to keep it from falling through the hole. If you want to step it up and still use a shaver, get a nils and if you want a chipper get a kdrill. Be sure to not cheap out on the drill/battery and you wont' be disappointed with your auger selection.
Wow! I have the 7 inch mora which I could put 8 inch blades on Makes the $250 k-drill look like it might be returned. That trigger breaking looks scary though.
Regarding the broken trigger issue, a few thoughts..The Clam plate has been around long enough as to where if there was a trigger issue, it would have been brought up well before this season... In the video he demonstrated how if he "locked" (meaning the position in the middle, between forward and reverse) his drill, the Clam trigger mechanism can put a lot of pressure on the trigger when you try to run it when you don't want it to function... Stupid.. Equals, locking your breaks really hard and stomping the gas pedal, and then complaining about a broken drive shaft.. When something isn't supposed to go, and you force it, it breaks... The drill didn't fail, the Clam plate did what it was supposed to do, the operator was to blame..Why lock your drill then try to make it go??? Or when you get to the ice and your auger won't run, squeeze the trigger extra hard, yeah that'll do it.. LolA final note for anyone still worried about it, some bees wax, soap, chap stick, might work for a little better sliding on the works...<°)))>{
Really this is very important...While traveling, be sure to at least lock your trigger, even better, remove the battery..That Clam plate trigger is easy to bump on, even a bare drill trigger can accidentally get pushed... I've already heard a couple stories about augers coming to life at the wrong times....<°)))>{
I remove the battery ...had my drill jump alive on me securing some gear in my sled atop my ATV..learns ya quick.
X3! Happened to me Friday. Had loaded my sled with the larger items including the Mud Mixer/Nils and was tossing the smaller, more crammable stuff on top when something(may have been my beers) I tossed in hit the trigger on the Mud Mixer. Yeah, it wakes you right up! LOL! Cover was on and none the worse for wear, but the new rule is: Battery is DISCONNECTED from power head when not actively drilling holes. End of story.
Quote: The 7" mora blade width is actually bigger than the 8" K-drill. 7" mora is 7.5" while the 8" K-drill is 7.25". Wow thats an eye opener is the 6 inch mora actually 7 inches?
The 6" mora is exactly 6 inches accordingto my tape measure. And as a correction, the 8" k drill is 7 3/8" actual diameter (according to an owner). So the 7" mora is 1/8" wider than the 8" K-drill. I'm not complaining, it just seems that there's a lot of variation between manufacturers
One of the things I've seen guys posting on here was a spring modification so the lever will kick back disengaging the auger.....I had issues with mine sticking and not working like it should......once you get the adjustments correct and things correctly tightened down the drill trigger should line up correctly with the trigger and have enough force to kick out.
I replaced my rubber band contraption with a castration band on the power lever to act as a stop like one of the other posters suggested (and very similar to Scratcher’s bushing solution). Money! Works perfectly!