Another Jiffy Model 30 Thread

[prezidentelect]

I have an older 2 handle Jiffy model 30 that I've been having troubles with. I got this thing last year and never got around using it until a couple weeks ago. The first time I used it this year it would start and idle fine but when cutting a hole it would bog down and stop cutting....release the gas and it would pick right back up and cut some more and repeat until the hole was cut. I took the carb apart and cleaned everything put in a new plug and still the same thing happens. So I took it to a licensed jiffy service center. They put in a new carp kit and cleaned up the carb again. They called me and told me that they got it as good as it can get. Brought it out to the ice to try it out. Same exact thing bogs when cutting. Checked the idle and main screws, Idles fine still but the main screw is only set at 1/4 turn out.....so I called and they tell me that its time to buy a new one after $84 to fix this thing this is not what i wanted to hear. So is this thing done or did they just not know what they were doing?

[oldfisher68]

I have an old Jiffy model 30. I would try a few things before giving up on it. I would put a new blade on. I would use Premium gas (no ethanol). Their are a bunch of threads on setting the idle and run screws. I take the auger part off and run the motor in a five gallon bucket at home, to make sure it runs right before I take it to the ice.

[jrzimmer]

My model 30 was doing exact same thing I just had to adjust high idle screw...runs perfect now!

http://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=128132.0

[adkRoy]

Make sure you are running non-ethynol gas in your auger. Especially those older models.

[slamminsam]

From everything you've said, you're on the right track...the 2 adjustment screws below the choke lever are important.  I believe you need to turn the one on the right hand side to the right at least a 1/4 turn...its the jet speed adjustment (rpm will increase).  IMO this will help. 

[drewcifer]

Have you checked the keyway under the fly wheel i have seen these augers run like this with a sheared keyway sounds strange but my buddies auger did the same thing we did all these things with the carb too and it ended up just being the sheared keyway hope this night help u out

[prezidentelect]

From everything you've said, you're on the right track...the 2 adjustment screws below the choke lever are important.  I believe you need to turn the one on the right hand side to the right at least a 1/4 turn...its the jet speed adjustment (rpm will increase).  IMO this will help.

Another 1/4 turn and it will be all the way closes. Will this hurt things?

[eriksat1]

As long as it starts up and idle's let it warm up a minute or 2 before adjusting screws. The older ones are cold blooded. Mine is about 25 years old and does that if I don't let it warm up a for a minute. Also when you adjust the screws make sure you do it out in the cold.

[Cool Blue]

If you paid a so called expert to work on the carb than the carb most likely is not the problem..Throw on a new head gasket and you will be golden..Easy fix and this fixed my auger problem when all along I thought it was a carb problem...

[eriksat1]

I also have a ongoing problem with mine, not really that big a deal for me but after I drill a hole and carry it to another spot if I don't hold it perfectly level upright it will die out? I'm pretty sure theses 2 cycles engines should stay running even if you lay it down on its side?

[52isntbigenough]

I also have a ongoing problem with mine, not really that big a deal for me but after I drill a hole and carry it to another spot if I don't hold it perfectly level upright it will die out? I'm pretty sure theses 2 cycles engines should stay running even if you lay it down on its side?

I had a similar issue with my 16 year old Model 30. I got a Carb Kit off of ebay and it's been running perfectly for the last 5 years.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/361319670258?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82

[Crayfish2]

Check to make sure the throttle linkage is opening the throttle all the way.  I just went through this with an old 2-handle that I picked up this fall (to replace my old 1 arm bandit).  It started first pull and idled beautifully.  Revving it at home I couldn't tell that anything was wrong.  Took it fishing and it took me 5mins to cut each hole because it would bog down as soon as the blade touched the ice.  I noticed that when I pulled the throttle that the lever on top of the carb didn't go all the way open.  I finished cutting holes by holding the throttle open on the carb by hand.  Turned out the spring that connected the throttle lever to the carb was put in the wrong hole.  Moved the spring to where it belongs and it works great now.  Your issue may not be the spring, but it could be that the linkage isn't opening the throttle all the way for some reason.

[slamminsam]

Another 1/4 turn and it will be all the way closes. Will this hurt things?

Is it turning fast...sounding smooth...fast rpm?  I'd turn the screw open a little more to get some more power. Can't hurt. But do let it warm up, rev her up, let it idle and give her hell.  If this don't work, send her to me and I'll throw it away for you

[DR.SPECKLER]

my jiffy 1 armed bandit from the 70s did this you need to adjust high speed mixture adjust screw.sound like its starving for fuel on the top end.make sure your gas cap vent is good/open too.my jiffy will do this in real cold weather also and I need to run it on half choke to cut holes till it warms up.does it run good and steady on half choke when cutting holes?if it does it definitely needs more fuel at wot.if it idles great don't mess with the low speed screw.

[prezidentelect]

I will try messing with the screw this weekend out on the ice. I will also check the spring for the governer. It does sound like at full throttle the governer is trying to kick into that extra gear but does so on and off. New blades already on it. Took the muffler off today to check for blockages and there were none. Thinking I may just buy a new strikemaster chipper lite friday and be done with it......the thing is half the weight of the one I'm using now.

[EatenByLimestone]

I agree that the expert should have fixed the carb.  Has anybody looked at points to see if they are worn? 

[jethro]

It really sounds exactly like it is too rich in the high range.

[DR.SPECKLER]

It really sounds exactly like it is too rich in the high range.

a rich condition on the top end wont make it bog down.it  would smoke a lot sputter and gas would leak from the exhaust.could be though cant rule it out.it would still rev but run erratic with a rich condition but would foul the plug easily.

[prezidentelect]

Bought a new auger today....so my headache can be yours for a low low price

[scmuskies]

Where ya located and what price ya talkin?


sc

[Crayfish2]

Not to highjack this thread, but I have a related question.  The "new" auger that I mentioned earlier only has 1 carb adjustment screw, the one on the left.  I thought it looked like the right one was capped off or something at the bottom of the hole.  Now I'm thinking that the needle valve might actually be gone and I'm looking at the valve seat at the bottom of the hole, if that is even possible.  I'll have to look more closely to see if the hole is threaded or not ... I'm not sure at this point.

Does anyone know if any vintage of the old Jiffy 30's ever came with only 1 needle valve?  When I got it, I figured it was a newer model and maybe something was changed.  It's still at least 25yrs old, though.

Thanks!

[Alex Delarge]

Does anyone know if any vintage of the old Jiffy 30's ever came with only 1 needle valve?  When I got it, I figured it was a newer model and maybe something was changed.  It's still at least 25yrs old, though.

Thanks!

They most certainly did. I have an old 30 that has one adjustment screw and my neighbor does also. If the bottom square piece that holds the diaphram on your carb is plastic and not metallic. It probably came with one adjusting screw and it is for low idle and the high idle is fixed. That adjusting screw (needle valve) will also be plastic and not metal. It kind of makes it fool proof for adjusting high idle. Both those 30's come from the same era, mid '70s.

 

[Crayfish2]

Thanks for the response!  Mine is just as you described, 1 adj screw and it is plastic.  I'll have to tinker with it a little more though.  Yesterday it was stalling as soon as I let off the throttle after cutting a hole.   Wouldn't even give me time to feather the throttle to keep it running, which I always have to do with my older one.  It would start right back up, though, so it wasn't too big of a deal.

Does anyone know when Jiffy switched from 1 handle to 2?  Also, is there a way to figure out the year of manufacture?

Thanks!

[Alex Delarge]

Does anyone know when Jiffy switched from 1 handle to 2?  Also, is there a way to figure out the year of manufacture?

Thanks!

If I had to guess I'd say '68-70 switch to the butterfly handles. They had produced some with butterfly handles with remaining gear castings from the 1-armed bandits and also offered the conversion kits to butterfly handles for free for several years.
If you call jiffy and get lucky enough to talk to the right person they may be able to tell the year of your unit. If it looks similar to what I posted, especially where the primer bulb/switch is located it is probably from the '70's and if the primer/switch is located on the cowling portion it is probably mid 80's +. Those with the 1 adj screw were not as common. Probably only made them a couple years.

[Crayfish2]

Mine looks just like yours and does not have the "1 armed bandit" gear housing.  So it looks like I have one from the mid-late 60's (1 handle) and 1 from the mid 70's (2 handle, single needle valve carb).   Thanks for the info.