How much line on the spool?

[slipperybob]

When we notice poor line performance coming off our spools, we are left with the question, "How much line on the spool?"  Well the answer is it depends even though we hear a general rule of thumb of filling line to 1/8th inch of the spool lip.  It depends on a lot of things like line diameter as well as the line properties.  It depends on the spinning reel and how well does it manage line.

The following is a few different photo's  of how much line are on each spinning reel spool.


This Shimano Symetre 750FI reel spooled with Gamma High Performance 4# test is filled almost to the lip of the spool.  This set up works well due to the how the line is wrapped evenly onto the spool.


This Pfleuger Presiden 6725 reel spooled with Trilene Microice 3# test is filled with a 1/4" to the spool lip.  This set up works due to the conical line fill of the spool.  There is a need to prevent the line from jumping off the spool and still allow a smooth flow of line coming off the spool.


This Shimano Stradic 1000FH reel spooled with Pline Floroclear 4# test is filled almost to the spool lip.  The tapered line fill makes this set up works very well.  This also prevents unwanted line jump from the spool.


This Shimano Sahara 4000FA reel spooled with 10# Fireline for another spool fill comparison.  The line fill is a saddle shape, which makes for rather poor line performance eventhough it's functional.

Every reel is a little different, so a little trial and error is needed to figure out what works.  Most notable is the shape of the spool's arbor and the line roller on the reel if it comes with a line groove or not.  All of my reels have some line backing on the spool.  So that's another thing to consider is how that will affect the line lay on the spool as well too.  I prefer to have enough fishing line to cover and hide the imperfection from a line join knot.

more to come...

[slipperybob]

So now looking at the line rollers.  Look carefully at the shapes of the line rollers and the spacing of the line rollers in relation to the bail arm assembly.




The Shimano reels have a little fin that guides the the line very close to the line roller.  If there is any slack in the line, the slack line doesn't move very far from the line roller.  The smaller space makes for difficulty for a bobber stop to clear through.


The Pflueger President reel has a tapered line roller.  There is also a fair amount of spacing from the line roller to the bail arm assembly.  It's does a good job for a slip bobber stop to clear through the line roller.


The Shakespeare Intrepid reel has a saddle shape line roller.  It is functional, but leaves a lot of room for the slack line to move about.  Also makes for any slip bobber stop to easily clear through the line roller.

The line roller does have some influence in how much line should be on the spool.  So in effect the Shimano Stradic and Symetre reels will do a better job at a more filled spool.  While the Pfleuger President reel is more functional with a spool filled with less line.

[lefty2053]

Very good information. Thanks. I always just went with the 1/8" from the end but your pictures really show a big difference in the different reel and bails.

[TheDL]

excellent post!  I too have been filling my reels about 1/8" from full - some with better results than others.  I honestly never thought about these details, but it makes sense.  My president reels certainly cast a lot better when they're not full. 

On the topic of backing - is it important to keep similar diameters?  I use a cheapo bulk spool of 20lb mono to back my reels, but I'm thinking the large diameter line might be causing gaps in the backing allowing layers of smaller diameter 'actual' line to get stuck underneath itself.  Does that make sense?  I'm new to using line backing 

[slipperybob]

excellent post!  I too have been filling my reels about 1/8" from full - some with better results than others.  I honestly never thought about these details, but it makes sense.  My president reels certainly cast a lot better when they're not full. 

On the topic of backing - is it important to keep similar diameters?  I use a cheapo bulk spool of 20lb mono to back my reels, but I'm thinking the large diameter line might be causing gaps in the backing allowing layers of smaller diameter 'actual' line to get stuck underneath itself.  Does that make sense?  I'm new to using line backing 

I generally only use line with diameters meant for the reel.  For example the small light/ultralight reels, I will use 6# test for backing.  Then I would use the intended main line of either 4# test to 2# test.  My reason is so that the line join knot isn't too big becuase I need enough main line to cover the knot to be smooth.  Again it depends, but it woudn't work well if I was using a 20# line backing.  That and the line diameter difference would mean the smaller line will have to fill in all the gaps before it smooths out on the spool.  To me that's what is important.  Using enough main line to smooth out on the spool.  Unfortunately when it comes to 2# test, it does take a lot more of it before it smooths out, when it comes to differences in line diameter.  For example when you use a bigger line diameter for backing, then use the equivalent line to the intended main line to fill in the gaps, then finally using the intended expensive flourocarbon line as a main line.

[TheDL]

makes sense.  I've only started using superlines and backing recently - I used to just use mono.  I know braid needs backing to avoid slipping on the reel - does flouro slip on the reel if you don't use any backing?

[slipperybob]

makes sense.  I've only started using superlines and backing recently - I used to just use mono.  I know braid needs backing to avoid slipping on the reel - does flouro slip on the reel if you don't use any backing?

Flouro doesn't slip on the spool, but a flouro knot may slip. 

[TheDL]

yep, experienced that already - got any tips on what knot to use?  I usually use palomar for everything, but I'm thinking with some of my tiny jigs and not-so-tiny diameter flouro line it may be hard to get the doubled up line through the eyelet of the jig.  Maybe a uni knot?

[slipperybob]

yep, experienced that already - got any tips on what knot to use?  I usually use palomar for everything, but I'm thinking with some of my tiny jigs and not-so-tiny diameter flouro line it may be hard to get the doubled up line through the eyelet of the jig.  Maybe a uni knot?

The knot to use is the one you can tie best.  For me it's the trilene knot, but I pull most of my knot snug from the tag end.  There is no line deformity on my main line.  It's all straight.  It would be the same for a palomar knot, but from my own personal knot strength testing, the palomar knot consistently breaks line below that of the trilene knot.  Furthermore I do not like to use it for horizontal jigs.  It is not meant to slide on the eyelet.   Anyway for flourocarbon line, I've found that you have to snug them much tighter with a lot more careful attention to detail.  I spend a lot of time just tying knots and pulling them to failure with left over lines to include a sloppy tying job.  So when my cold numb hands try to tie it, I'll have an idea of what to expect.

[moosehead]

I always fill to 1/8.
It's easier to remove some line then add it.