Heritage tip-up modifications

[pooley]

i decided to modify my Heritage lakers to perform even better. first, i applied marine spar varnish. (2 coats) then, i put a 3 1/2" bolt through the upright arm to keep the spool from coming off without tools. also, i can set up spare spools for different situations as needed. the wingnut can only make 1 revolution, and the locknut keeps it secure.




i put washers on to keep the bolts from pulling into the wood, and added lock washers to the cross arms to lock them in place.



i also put reflective tape,(white), on the top of the upright arm, and the tip of the flag wire, to see if i have a flag in the dark.




i can wait to put them to use!!!

[JoeJ]

  Looks good from here.....

[Curley]

Nice upgrade. To bad they don't come like that.

[pooley]

Nice upgrade. To bad they don't come like that.

i agree! i'd pay a couple more dollars for the upgrade.

[antlerdawg]

i put a 3 1/2" bolt through the upright arm to keep the spool from coming off without tools. also, i can set up spare spools for different situations as needed. the wingnut can only make 1 revolution, and the locknut keeps it secure.

(Image removed from quote.)
(Image removed from quote.)

On this part, do you use the existing plastic washers that come with the trap?  Hard to tell from the pics.  Hate to ask put can you pull one apart and do a schematic layout of the post?  If not I understand but I would like to upgrade my Heritages that way with stainless.

[pooley]

On this part, do you use the existing plastic washers that come with the trap?  Hard to tell from the pics.  Hate to ask put can you pull one apart and do a schematic layout of the post?  If not I understand but I would like to upgrade my Heritages that way with stainless.

yes, i used their plastic washers, both washers.

[Mainedog]

Do they use a bolt now for the reel or did you replace the brass (?) stud that they used?

The white marks on the reel makes very good sense!

MD

[antlerdawg]

yes, i used their plastic washers, both washers.

Thanks, what was the diameter of the 3 1/2 screw?

[pooley]

Thanks, what was the diameter of the 3 1/2 screw?

32? i don't know. i'll look tomorrow!

[oletimer]

I think I remember them being 10/32 Pooley. That's what I used for my upgrades on my Hi Flags. They had a 8/32 in them originally.

[matty23]

I think I remember them being 10/32 Pooley. That's what I used for my upgrades on my Hi Flags. They had a 8/32 in them originally.

iam thinking oletimer should open his own tip-up making/refurbishing them.... i saw his newish tip ups and must say there nice looking!!!

[pooley]

Do they use a bolt now for the reel or did you replace the brass (?) stud that they used?

The white marks on the reel makes very good sense!

MD

i replaced the brass.

[Wiener]

It's nice upgrading your traps allows you to be familiar with them.
It also allows you to keep spare parts which can save the day out on the ice.

Wiener

[oletimer]

You right Pooley, a lot of maufacturers seem to make good products but cut a few corners in hardware to cut costs. Those upgrades to yours will make them last a lifetime. Well worth a few bucks more at time of purchase.

[BigDdoney]

ive lost 3 or 4 spools because of that brass stud falling out,finally did same thing and haven't lost one yet.

[gil_lunkage]

wow, i better upgrade mine, i have lost one nut(haha), but luckily not the spool.

[1moslab]

you have the flag arm on the wrong side

[pooley]

you have the flag arm on the wrong side

hahahahaha, no, i don't. that's the storage side, so it doesn't pop out when in transport.

[gooseblaster49707]

nice modification(s). i basically did the same with mine except i used a nylon locking wingnut from ace hardware instead of the lock nut and wing nut.   i found that the wing nut alone would spin itself tight at the worst time.  i use the nylock wing nut as/for the drag too. i pitched the drag mechanism that came with the tip-up as it wasn't needed anymore.
.
i used reflective tape from a safety vest glued in place with FABRI-TAC glue on the upright post and on the flagshaft.  works great first light, last light and really shows up nice with a small handheld spotlight at night.
.
the last thing i did was take off the cross sticks and turned the base into an H frame similar to the polar or Indian Hill.  used 1/8'' aluminum plate on each end and a piece of 3/4'' aluminum round stock drilled thru for the 8-32 bolt as a spacer.  the upright doesn't sit in the center but, off to one side. works great. not tippy.
.

[pooley]

nice modification(s). i basically did the same with mine except i used a nylon locking wingnut from ace hardware instead of the lock nut and wing nut.   i found that the wing nut alone would spin itself tight at the worst time.  i use the nylock wing nut as/for the drag too. i pitched the drag mechanism that came with the tip-up as it wasn't needed anymore.
.
i used reflective tape from a safety vest glued in place with FABRI-TAC glue on the upright post and on the flagshaft.  works great first light, last light and really shows up nice with a small handheld spotlight at night.
.
the last thing i did was take off the cross sticks and turned the base into an H frame similar to the polar or Indian Hill.  used 1/8'' aluminum plate on each end and a piece of 3/4'' aluminum round stock drilled thru for the 8-32 bolt as a spacer.  the upright doesn't sit in the center but, off to one side. works great. not tippy.
.

i'll have to look for the locking wingnut! i saw that my set-up might cause problems! thanks!!!

[NJ PIKER]

nice modification(s). i basically did the same with mine except i used a nylon locking wingnut from ace hardware instead of the lock nut and wing nut.   i found that the wing nut alone would spin itself tight at the worst time.  i use the nylock wing nut as/for the drag too. i pitched the drag mechanism that came with the tip-up as it wasn't needed anymore.
.
i used reflective tape from a safety vest glued in place with FABRI-TAC glue on the upright post and on the flagshaft.  works great first light, last light and really shows up nice with a small handheld spotlight at night.
.
the last thing i did was take off the cross sticks and turned the base into an H frame similar to the polar or Indian Hill.  used 1/8'' aluminum plate on each end and a piece of 3/4'' aluminum round stock drilled thru for the 8-32 bolt as a spacer.  the upright doesn't sit in the center but, off to one side. works great. not tippy.

can you post a pic
thinking of changing my sticks
thanks   
.

[gooseblaster49707]

i do not have a way to post pictures right now.  i'm computer illederate, i couldn't cut, paste and forward if it ment winning the lotto. . . . if you PM me, i will email you the pictures and you can post if you would like.   will include a picture of the hole covers i use from coroplast, election signs or place setting mats too. 

[jmaster69]

I was wondering how they assemble the spool. How does it turn freely on a bolt

[1moslab]

I was wondering how they assemble the spool. How does it turn freely on a bolt

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       the bolt is smaller than the hole in the spool

[jmaster69]

yeah but too small and it will wiggle. Im looking at how they managed to keep it snug but able to turn freely without spool wobble

[pooley]

No wiggle, the bolt is the same size as the brass stud.

[Alex Delarge]

My plastic spools were tight from the factory, I drilled out the spools to make them turn freely, no problem with wobble.