Another home built Jacker

[dubob]

I don't know if any of you IS groupies visit other boards, but I found an interesting home project to build your own jaw jacker on the Idaho board.  There have probably been other threads dealing with building them, but this one seemed very straight forward compared to others I have seen.  Anyway, you can take a look at it here if interested: Mouse Jacker Plans

[river_scum]

the pvc ones are way easier/cheaper to make.

I can make 5 of these for 20bucks.

link to my post at end.  pic already posted there.
https://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=370416.msg4015586#msg4015586

[Philip]

Some people refer to me as a home built jacker 

[badger132]

From building and using several of these designs, let me say that the ones that use a wire hook to grab the tip top guide of the pole can be hard to get sensitive enough for small fish. You also need to make sure that your line does not get fouled in the hook, or get pinched or nicked up in there.
The beauty of the 2 stage design is that the spring of the pole is held down by the first stage, and then the second stage hold that one down. That is what JawJackers use. Another good part of the Jawjacker design is to use a 1/8 inch cable tie or other small loop through the tip top, so that you are not hooking through the tip top, which might damage it. Finally, I found that if you size the length of the jacker so that the pole catches in towards the pivot of the primary trigger stage, the up force against the trigger is less, and the trigger is more sensitive.

[lundin-loading]

I didn't really care for the auto hooksetters I built, I like setting the hook too much. I built these based off the "Finnick Fooler" design. Lots of fun and very effective.

[badger132]

Sweet! Did you build the rod too?
 

[meandcuznalfy]

From building and using several of these designs, let me say that the ones that use a wire hook to grab the tip top guide of the pole can be hard to get sensitive enough for small fish. You also need to make sure that your line does not get fouled in the hook, or get pinched or nicked up in there.
The beauty of the 2 stage design is that the spring of the pole is held down by the first stage, and then the second stage hold that one down. That is what JawJackers use. Another good part of the Jawjacker design is to use a 1/8 inch cable tie or other small loop through the tip top, so that you are not hooking through the tip top, which might damage it. Finally, I found that if you size the length of the jacker so that the pole catches in towards the pivot of the primary trigger stage, the up force against the trigger is less, and the trigger is more sensitive.

Very true,  built mine this year and didn't have much time to use them, gonna need a bit of tweaking.

[river_scum]

I didn't really care for the auto hooksetters I built, I like setting the hook too much. I built these based off the "Finnick Fooler" design. Lots of fun and very effective.

I like the light bite with ability to move off some before feeling anything.  at times it could mean less "pullouts".  especially with neutral crappie.

question for you.  does the end of the wood part set over the hole?  I assume it does if that where the line trigger is.  if so a chunk of innertube sstapled under there for hole cover would be a great addition.

nice work to all.

[lundin-loading]

Trigger close up. The wood ends significantly short of the hole. I use 12" squares of anti-fatigue mat with a slit in it for hole covers.

[river_scum]

ah I see now.  I thought trigger was before the rod tip. thx