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Author Topic: Mouse Jacker Plans  (Read 1086 times)

Offline badger132

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Mouse Jacker Plans
« on: Feb 19, 2018, 01:35 PM »
Rick Gehrke asked for some instructions on my "Mouse-Jackers"- so I decided to take some pictures of the process when I made one for my Mackinaw rod today:

You need some 1 1/2 inch schedule 40 pipe for the rod holder. Cut the end off at an angle- I use about 30 degrees, but it depends on the rod you have. Stiffer rods might need less angle.

Cut off a piece long enough to hold the rod up to the reel seat, or however much you want.

Find a piece of wood long enough that you get the bend you want in the rod, and at least as wide as the PVC pipe diameter- I am using a scrap of moulding.

Mount the PVC rod holder to one end of the rod with 1 inch or 1 1/4 inch drywall screws. I find it easier to start drilling the clearance hole in the PVC perpendicular to the pipe wall, and once the drill is started, tilt down at a 45 degree angle so the screw goes into the wood. Drill the back one first, and insert the screw, and it will be easier to hold everything for the side 2 holes. Put 1 screw in the back, and 1 on each side.

Insert the rod, bend it over, and when you have it where it looks good to you, mark a spot about 1 inch past there, and cut the board to length.

The side brace is just a 12 inch piece of scrap wood, almost anything you have on hand will work, with a hole in the center, and screwed to the main beam. You spin this crossways to the main beam in use, and spin it back to the position shown for transport.

For the trigger, you need a mouse trap with the plastic trigger pan.

Remove the mouse masher bar and spring. Easiest way I have found is to grab the staples holding them on with a wire cutter or pliers, and twist them out.

Cut the end off the mouse trap so the trigger sticks out past the end of the trap, and notch the end of the trigger slightly to hold the line. I used a band saw, but anything could work.

I glue the trap to the end of the main beam with hot glue, but if you don't have that, screws or wood glue work as well.

OK- I'ts done. Now to hook the rod to the trigger, I use a 1/8 inch zip tie. Loop it through the side supports of the tip guide, and after you have it the size you want, trim off the end.

That's all there is- it takes me longer to type this than to do it, and my only cost other than shop scraps has been $2 for 4 mouse traps. I did have to look to find the plastic triggers- Winco has them in Boise. I have tested these at Cascade, and they do work.

To set them, you bend the rod down, and hook the trigger bar through the tie wrap and hook the trigger bar under the trigger pan. Run the line through the notch and down the hole, just like a jaw jacker. As you can see in the picture, I ran the line under the trigger bar as well- I think this holds the line lower going out to the trigger, and may make it more sensitive.

Done! It takes about 5 minutes if you have the tools handy, and it is fun to catch fish on something you made yourself. It is not as nice as a Jawjacker, it does not adjust, and is slightly bigger to transport, but I can set it up faster, and it does seem to work the same, as far as I can tell.

Offline rickgehrke

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Re: Mouse Jacker Plans
« Reply #1 on: Feb 19, 2018, 03:20 PM »
Thank you kindly!! I can't wait to try to make one!! I will let you know. Tight lines. Rick
Fish hard, or go home.

Offline Walleyewacker007

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Re: Mouse Jacker Plans
« Reply #2 on: Feb 20, 2018, 09:33 AM »
Great job Badger! Love to see the "homegrown" contraptions people come up with.

Offline BackCountry Kyle

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Re: Mouse Jacker Plans
« Reply #3 on: Feb 20, 2018, 09:47 AM »
Awesome thank you for sharing. I'm gonna make a couple today!

Offline PenguinIII

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Re: Mouse Jacker Plans
« Reply #4 on: Mar 30, 2018, 01:46 PM »
Nice job, the simplicity and effectiveness of the design is outstanding.

Offline badger132

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Re: Mouse Jacker Plans
« Reply #5 on: Mar 31, 2018, 09:46 AM »
After a season of using them, I have a few learnings to share:

As you would expect, the pole you use determines the hook setting force and stroke. My sensitive jigging rods had low hook setting force. They are not ideal for jaw jackers or mouse jackers. My most consistent hooking model is a larger one I made for a 4.5 foot telescoping spinning rod I use for backpacking in the summer. It is stiffer than the jig rods, and sets the hook about 3 feet. I almost never fail to hook up, and the fish is fighting agains that bigger spring, and it maintains tension better than a short jigging rod.

The tension of the rod upwards on the trigger bar makes the trigger less sensitive. If you make the length such that the rod tip is pulled straight down, not stretched in or out, you can slide the zip tie in or out to adjust sensitivity.

Being made of wood, and few pieces, these make less noise when tripped than the plastic jaw jackers. An improvement would be a bell or other noisemaker to catch my attention when they trip. I saw someone using a dollar store window alarm to make one, but I can't find the part at my dollar store.

My favorite days are when the perch are hitting jigged baits, but when dead sticks are the answer, these have a better catch rate than simple tip ups. I plan to have a complete set by next season. If you have ideas to make them work better, or easier to build, please let me know.



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