Author Topic: clam plate problems (Read 4359 times)

Spider1 · « **on:** Dec 25, 2014, 04:34 PM »

Well, santa brought me my new clam auger plate! Ho Ho Ho! Pretty happy about it, only problem is I can't get the dang chuck off my Ridgid drill! I got the screw out, no problem there, but when I try to screw the chuck off it won't go, ended up messin up the rubber body of the chuck and I'm worried that I might be messing up the motor too. The screw is a left hand thread, comes loose turning it clockwise. But the chuck is a right hand thread and turns CCW. I tried with an allen wrench and with an impact wrench. Tried heat, no good, that was when the rubber started to go. One website I saw said to run the drill in reverse while holding onto it with a wrench, I have a large set of channel locks. The chuck spun a couple times and that annihilated the rest of the rubber. I figure I'll be changing the chuck when all is said and done but I don't even know if I can get this one off! So far this is the biggest drawback of the clam plate. Anyone else have this problem? What did you do that might have worked with a Ridgid drill?

kc_ · « **Reply #1 on:** Dec 25, 2014, 06:45 PM »

did you chuck up the 3/8" allen wrench in the chuck(short end in the chuck) and rap the long end with a rubber mallet

Spider1 · « **Reply #2 on:** Dec 25, 2014, 07:57 PM »

yup. Then a bigger hammer, then a 3 lb hammer. nadda. then I used heat and tried again. then I tried an impact, still wouldn't budge.

rdhammah · « **Reply #3 on:** Dec 25, 2014, 09:24 PM »

my friend did it for me. he had a hex wrench with a T-handle. with the frill set in the forward position, he inserted it into the chuck and tightened it down as indicated in the instructions and he applied steady counter clockwise pressure and it came loose.
I had the same problem. here are the suggestions that I received:
http://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=298537.0

Fisherman-Andy · « **Reply #4 on:** Dec 25, 2014, 09:54 PM »

This is the easiest way I found to remove the chuck and i've done this 3 times already with 3 different drills.

Just take the handle pipe from one of your floor jacks and slide the pipe over the allen wrench. Apply pressure counterclockwise till it breaks loose. Don't forget to apply anti-seize afterwards.

Spider1 · « **Reply #5 on:** Dec 26, 2014, 06:12 AM »

yeeeaahh, nope. Done that and didn't work. Tried an extra long 1/2 drive breaker with an extra breaker bar. I think I trashed my drill. With the drill set on the lowest gear, set in reverse and on the heaviest setting, with the breaker bar, I can turn the motor. It won't hold enough to break the threads any more. I guess I'll be looking for a replacement bare tool. Looks like the clam plate has just cost me a couple hundred right off the bat. I wouldn't have minded payin for a new chuck if I had to, but the drill was a bit pricy. I guess since it's already messed up and the drill is still working, sort of, I'll just keep working on it. I've heard that Ridgid was a bit lock tight happy, so I think that is the problem.

buz23 · « **Reply #6 on:** Dec 26, 2014, 07:39 AM »

The forward/reverse switch should go in the middle, which supposedly locks the gears.

Spider1 · « **Reply #7 on:** Dec 26, 2014, 09:42 AM »

yeah. Done that too. It doesn't lock the chuck in position anymore.

Ya know, I really shouldn't have titled this as a clam plate problem. It's more of a ridgid drill problem. I've read several complaints of the same thing. It seems they go gung-ho over the lock tight. But I never read that the chuck couldn't be removed with a little perseverance. I figure I'll just keep hammering at it until either it gives or I do. I'm probably gonna have to get a new drill anyway... just don't tell my Mrs, she just gave me the thing a couple months ago for my b-day.

Shack man Shoney · « **Reply #8 on:** Dec 26, 2014, 11:02 AM »

You could always take it back since it has that FABULOUS Ridgid warranty

Spider1 · « **Reply #9 on:** Dec 26, 2014, 03:24 PM »

The warranty doesn't cover damage from abuse of the tool, and I figure this would count. But I hear that I can take it to the Home Depot and they might be able to remove the chuck there. I guess I'll give them a call and see if they work on tools there or if they can help me any.

Damn Yankee · « **Reply #10 on:** Dec 26, 2014, 05:43 PM »

Quote from: Spider1 on Dec 26, 2014, 09:42 AM

yeah. Done that too. It doesn't lock the chuck in position anymore.

Ya know, I really shouldn't have titled this as a clam plate problem. It's more of a ridgid drill problem. I've read several complaints of the same thing. It seems they go gung-ho over the lock tight. But I never read that the chuck couldn't be removed with a little perseverance. I figure I'll just keep hammering at it until either it gives or I do. I'm probably gonna have to get a new drill anyway... just don't tell my Mrs, she just gave me the thing a couple months ago for my b-day.

Doesn't Home Depot have a 90 day return policy? Take it back for a refund or credit.

Spider1 · « **Reply #11 on:** Dec 26, 2014, 06:24 PM »

not with this damage. If they can get they chuck off it might work out. The drill is still working ok. I don't mind replacing the chuck, not a big deal, just gotta get the dang thing off first! Shoulda got the Milwaukee

nws6373 · « **Reply #12 on:** Dec 27, 2014, 09:08 AM »

Spider, I just went through the same problem with my Mil. Fuel 18V. I ended up cutting the chuck off. I started by cutting off the outside casing. Then I cut the end of the chuck off just at the end of the inside threaded spindle. Had to eyeball this, as the spindle comes out of the drill about 3/4" to 1". Then I used a Dremel to slice 2 grooves on the remaining chuck length wise. Be careful to go just deep enough to the threads. One side was able to pry off, then was able to unscrew the rest of the chuck. Yes It was a pain in the A$$. The threads were caked with Loctite or whatever they use. My Clam plate is now assembled and the drill seems to work OK. We do not have ice here yet so I haven't used it under load. My drill also would slip when trying the Allen wrench/Hammer combo. So I hoping everything is OK. Good Luck!

Spider1 · « **Reply #13 on:** Dec 27, 2014, 12:04 PM »

ooooh boy.

I'm really hoping I don't have to go that route. But as a last resort I might just have to. I guess the milwakee's ain't much better than the ridgids with this problem. Don't these manufacturers know that sometimes we need to change drill chucks? I've been a machinist for almost 40 years, never had this kinda problem switching out a drill chuck and I couldn't even count the number of times I have had to switch out drill chucks!

Icepuppy · « **Reply #14 on:** Dec 27, 2014, 02:12 PM »

Soak chuck and screw area with PB Blaster. Let stand for 24hrs, should work, the stuff is amazing!

http://t.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-11-oz-Penetrating-Catalyst-Lubricant-16PB-THD/202597469

Spider1 · « **Reply #15 on:** Dec 27, 2014, 03:49 PM »

I called Home depot and spoke to their "special services" department. The guy told me "no problem, bring it down. So, I grabbed the drill and drove down there, a 45 min trip. They looked at me like I had 2 heads. No one knew how to get the chuck off and they didn't have a department there that worked on tools? I told them that I just spoke to the guy on the phone an hour ago so they called the "special services" guy and this little pimple faced kid shows up and asks if I'm sure the chucks can be removed

I told him thanks for wasting my time.

Maybe a solvent would work. I have a can of pb, worth a try. I'll let ya know how it turns out tomorrow.

Icepuppy · « **Reply #16 on:** Dec 27, 2014, 04:57 PM »

Yeah try it, you're battling the thread locking compound. The other idea that usually works is this.

Wear heavy gloves. Heat the Allen key until red hot with a propane torch. Insert key into Allen chuck bolt and wait for heat to transfer to thread locker. Try and remove, repeat to raise temperature of bolt. BTW, PB is not flammable (I tried) so if you do PB first you can still do the heat method, any residual PB should not ignite unlike most other solvents and penetrating oils.

Check this link

http://us.henkel-adhesives-blog.com/post/All-About-Threadlockers/How-to-Remove-Red-Threadlocker/

Spider1 · « **Reply #17 on:** Dec 27, 2014, 05:40 PM »

I tried heat but I didn't want to go too far with it because many of the internal parts of the drill is plastic. I'll just keep working on it and see what works.

prospector · « **Reply #18 on:** Dec 27, 2014, 06:30 PM »

The more I read this thread, the more I think the Clam plate=

. I feel for you guys, I really do. Destroying a drill before it even gets used sucks. When building electronic projects, I have pooched the screw a few times myself.

fooman · « **Reply #19 on:** Dec 28, 2014, 10:55 AM »

I was having the same problems with a new M18...tried the impact wrench etc and nothing...went with the largest allen wrench that would fit in the chuck and put a breaker bar on it...couple smacks with a hammer on the breaker bar loosened everything up

kc_ · « **Reply #20 on:** Dec 28, 2014, 12:33 PM »

sure am glad I don't have that problem with my clam plate. Don't need to remove the chuck with mine.

Rugburn · « **Reply #21 on:** Dec 30, 2014, 10:33 AM »

KC I agree, I'm not sure why Clam would have you remove the chuck in the first place. If they simply had a 1/2" diameter with 3 flats on the drive end, it would work fine. It would save a lot of frustration. This one example will hurt sales.

Like you KC I was going to build my own. Then along came x-mas and viola, Santa brought me a shiny new adapter plate. I was able to get my chuck off by removing the left handed screw, then putting the large allen wrench in the chuck and the other end in a bench mounted vise. I put the drill in reverse, braced myself, and gave her diesel. Luckily it spun right off for me.

I did end up making an extension. The height would have killed my back.

Next is the smitty sled build, materials should come today!

kc_ · « **Reply #22 on:** Dec 30, 2014, 03:28 PM »

Dave you have the ability, you should try and make a DORA. It is in the auger section under augers.

Spider1 · « **Reply #23 on:** Dec 31, 2014, 09:21 AM »

one problem with using an adapter in the chuck is that if you put the drill in reverse either on purpose or on accident, the chuck can open and the auger can drop. With a guard plate or rope it would save the auger from taking a dip but I've read of several guys that had to try and fish their auger off of the bottom of a lake.

I worked on the drill again last night, no good. Don't waste your time with PB blaster, it might be good for rusted nuts but it isn't much good at removing locktite. Next step is to take it to a garage and see if they got an impact wrench that is stronger than mine. Then I'll give heat a try again and hope to not melt the drill. After that the only choice I'll have is to try and cut it off. Either way, I was figuring I would need to get a new bare tool to replace it so if I can get this chuck off with the tool in one piece it will be married to the plate forever.

Like I said before, this really isn't a problem with the clam plate, it's more of an issue with the drill manufacturers. They seem to have forgotten that chucks need to be removed from time to time.

kc_ · « **Reply #24 on:** Dec 31, 2014, 03:50 PM »

Quote from: Spider1 on Dec 31, 2014, 09:21 AM

one problem with using an adapter in the chuck is that if you put the drill in reverse either on purpose or on accident, the chuck can open and the auger can drop. With a guard plate or rope it would save the auger from taking a dip but I've read of several guys that had to try and fish their auger off of the bottom of a lake.

I worked on the drill again last night, no good. Don't waste your time with PB blaster, it might be good for rusted nuts but it isn't much good at removing locktite. Next step is to take it to a garage and see if they got an impact wrench that is stronger than mine. Then I'll give heat a try again and hope to not melt the drill. After that the only choice I'll have is to try and cut it off. Either way, I was figuring I would need to get a new bare tool to replace it so if I can get this chuck off with the tool in one piece it will be married to the plate forever.

Like I said before, this really isn't a problem with the clam plate, it's more of an issue with the drill manufacturers. They seem to have forgotten that chucks need to be removed from time to time.

The way I have made my knock off clam plate, the adapter cannot come loose from the plate. So there is no problem of loosing the auger.

pierced lip · « **Reply #25 on:** Jan 01, 2015, 01:14 PM »

I love the knock off clam plate ljc2tall, you wouldn't have any plans for it that you are willing to share with us would you? I would like one for my walks into provincial parks here in Ontario as we are not allowed gas motors and thats where some of the best speckle trout action is.
Thanks in advance PL.

kc_ · « **Reply #26 on:** Jan 01, 2015, 05:47 PM »

There are no plans. I just looked at the clam Plate and adapted my own features. I made my own adapter, that fits through the bearing and into the drill so you do not have to remove the chuck.

jonr42 · « **Reply #27 on:** Jan 10, 2015, 03:00 PM »

Oh my!! I have the exact same problem as you to the T!! My wife got me the clam plate for xmas. I bought a brand new Ridgid hammer dill specifically for the Clam setup. I never used the drill once. Followed the instructions, even watched the Ridgid video on You Tube showing how to get it off. That video was a joke because barely taped it with a hammer to get the chuck off.. I'm beginning to think mine is welded on there. I have done all the same steps as you, tried everything. Now it's like the gears or clutch won't hold it from spinning the motor when I try. The drill seems to still work fine but something doesn't seem right because it would hold it back when I shock it. I even brought it to a huge too guy that owns a big tool blog site and he couldn't get it off!! I'm definitely disappointed with Ridgid and feel like is wasted $150, plus the cost of the Clam plate. What did you end up figuring out or doing with yours? Any info would be a great help as we're in the exact same boat. I guess I'm glad I'm not alone, and have read about others that can't get the chuck of their Ridgid drill. I never even sunk a screw with it. So bummed. Hope you have figured something out. I guess I could buy a new gearbox assembly for 70 bucks that wouldn't have the chuck on it, but I shouldn't have too.

kc_ · « **Reply #28 on:** Jan 10, 2015, 06:07 PM »

Quote from: jonr42 on Jan 10, 2015, 03:00 PM

Oh my!! I have the exact same problem as you to the T!! My wife got me the clam plate for xmas. I bought a brand new Ridgid hammer dill specifically for the Clam setup. I never used the drill once. Followed the instructions, even watched the Ridgid video on You Tube showing how to get it off. That video was a joke because barely taped it with a hammer to get the chuck off.. I'm beginning to think mine is welded on there. I have done all the same steps as you, tried everything. Now it's like the gears or clutch won't hold it from spinning the motor when I try. The drill seems to still work fine but something doesn't seem right because it would hold it back when I shock it. I even brought it to a huge too guy that owns a big tool blog site and he couldn't get it off!! I'm definitely disappointed with Ridgid and feel like is wasted $150, plus the cost of the Clam plate. What did you end up figuring out or doing with yours? Any info would be a great help as we're in the exact same boat. I guess I'm glad I'm not alone, and have read about others that can't get the chuck of their Ridgid drill. I never even sunk a screw with it. So bummed. Hope you have figured something out. I guess I could buy a new gearbox assembly for 70 bucks that wouldn't have the chuck on it, but I shouldn't have too.

go to this tread and do what he says:
http://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=300729.0

why go thru the hassle of ruining a drill when it is a simple fix.

jonr42 · « **Reply #29 on:** Jan 10, 2015, 08:23 PM »

Thank you for pointing this out, you guys are lifesavers! I have been so bummed and frustrated. I dont know why clam doesnt make this kind of adapter, and drill the set screw a little deeper so i cant fall out of chuck. Someone could sell these if they could make them!

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Author Topic: clam plate problems (Read 4359 times)