clam plate brainstorm!

[Spider1]

I figured I would start another thread on my problem so this fix would be easier to find. I had a major brainstorm this morning and I don't know why I didn't think of it before.

ok, I realized that the internal threads on the clam adapter is a standard 1/2-20 unf thread. No biggy. But the main reason for taking the chuck off the drill is to thread on the adapter. well, say you don't thread on the adapter. Instead you get a 1/2-20 screw, cut it so there is 1.0" of thread and 1.0" of shoulder, then grind or mill or file 3 flats at 120 degrees on the shoulder. Thread the screw into the clam adapter, you can even use the drill. then with this all attached and tight and the drill clamped down on the shoulder of the screw, attach it to the clam plate as usual. No need to remove the chuck! I can stop pounding on my drill!

[iceman260]

Thats a good idea but will the handle be to high to clamp down with the u bolt.

[Spider1]

not for my ridgid. I put it all together without the screw cuz it's sunday. When I get to the shop tomorrow morning I'll make the screw and put it together when I get home. Some drills might be too high but a spacer plate might fix that problem.

[kc_]

sounds like a great idea.

[Channel Z]

What happens if the drill chuck loosens up and the modified 1/2-20 bolt comes out of the chuck while drilling a hole? 

[Spider1]

nothing, well, the chuck would be loose, that's all. The adapter is held in place in a bearing by a couple of set screws, once tight, it shouldn't go any place, the screw adapter I made is threaded an inch into that adapter and the hole thing is bolted to the clam plate. I filed 3 flats onto the shank of the screw adapter and chucked it up into the dril and mounted the hole thing up last night. When the drill is turning in the forward position, it actually tightens the chuck and it's in there good and with the 3 flats, I don't think it can loosen this way. I don't think it will come loose even in the reverse position but I don't see me using that very often anyway.

yeah, it worked just fine so far. I gotta get it on the ice and see how it all works though. But either way, it seems like a great fix if you don't want to (or can't ) remove the chuck from your drill.

[buz23]

I dunno, the little set screws that anchor the bearing to the adapter don't really provide much axial thrust protection.  The main thing holding the normal setup together is the fact that the adapter screws onto your drill (hopefully) and the drill can't go through the plate.  Watch those set screws if you abandon the threads.

BTW, on an older lazer auger I actually fatigued the wing nut fastener off (the far end where it threads into the auger) drilling by hand over several years.  It didn't let loose, but jammed in place but not in a way that would not allow further drilling - had to repair.  Just a caution that there are more than one way to lose the bottom half of your auger down a hole.  I notice that my Milwaukee fuel has a tendency to stop with a snap.  I'll bet this puts a lot of stress on stuff in the train.

Now if the clam adapter had a shoulder which captured it securely above the bearing, there would be no problem whatsoever.  Seems like someone could make some money offering a threadless clam plate adapter with a shoulder and flats to be used with the drill chuck.

[Spider1]

yeah, I noticed the set screws were a bit small, 1/4-20 I think, but they should hold. I was thinking of filing a flat on the clam adapter for them also. Not really worried about them. The screw that holds my auger to the adapter is junk, probably going to replace the thing with a bolt instead sooner or later. But that is just my auger, the adapter I made has nothin to do with that. I haven't heard of a single issue of the set screws letting go, but I keep a set of allen wrenches in my kit and I will be checking for loose nuts, lol!

[lefty2053]

Are the Screws strong enough for this operation? And U-bolts do come in all different sizes if you have a longer Drill to attach.

[Spider1]

everything is well made and easily strong enough. Made in USA! It isn't so much the u-clamp as it is the height of the upright clamping plate. My drill fits with about an inch to spare but it's the smaller Ridgid drill. Without the chuck it would be about 2 inches shorter. Basically, all it does is hold the drill steady and in position. One thing I noticed is the trigger is a bit stiff. Sometimes I have to actually push it to disengage the drill. I'm hoping it loosens up with use.

[jonr42]

Thanks Spider!!! I replied on your old post earlier, I have the exact same problem with a brand new Ridgid hammer drill that I bought just for the Clam plate. I never used the drill it is brand new. It was like dejavu reading your posts. Im a mechanic and I tried absolutely everything. Heat, impact gun bf hammer etc. After awhile the clutch seems like it was slipping in the drill because the motor would spin but the chuck wont budge. I even had a big time tool blogger/reviewer try to get it off. He's never seen anything like it! The drill seems to work ok. I cant wait to try this tomorrow. I was having regrets buying this setup and drill but this should work perfectly. Let me know how it works. Glad im not alone with this battle! Thank you

[jonr42]

So my Ridgid x4 hammer drill is much longer than my regular ridgid drill. To do this i would have to shim the mounting plate up over an inch, get longer bolts etc. Plus the trigger doesn't work good at all this high because it binds. I would have to modify quite a bit of stuff. Although this wouldn't be too hard to do, its frustrating that I have to modify and change stuff around just to get it to work. Its not Clams fault, but it is too bad so many people are finding it almost impossible to get the chucks off of some drills. I got almost 300 bucks into what I thought would be a killer lightweight auger setup and I cant figure out where to go from here. My luck i guess

[buz23]

You know, if you guys are going to go a route where you leave the chuck on, you could place a spacer between the clam plate and the bearing so that it gives you more room under the plate.  Could be a couple pieces of 3/4" plywood with holes in them or something similar.   That way your drill won't stick up so high above the plate.  You might have to enlarge the hole in the plate where the adapter goes through since now your chuck might stick down there some and its bigger in diameter than the adapter.

[kc_]

So my Ridgid x4 hammer drill is much longer than my regular ridgid drill. To do this i would have to shim the mounting plate up over an inch, get longer bolts etc. Plus the trigger doesn't work good at all this high because it binds. I would have to modify quite a bit of stuff. Although this wouldn't be too hard to do, its frustrating that I have to modify and change stuff around just to get it to work. Its not Clams fault, but it is too bad so many people are finding it almost impossible to get the chucks off of some drills. I got almost 300 bucks into what I thought would be a killer lightweight auger setup and I cant figure out where to go from here. My luck i guess

If it is that much of a pain for you, just buy an adapter and sell the clam plate. I bought 2 adapters this spring for 5.00 a piece.

[Spider1]

jonr42, yeah, I had a feeling that some drills might be too long. Buz23's idea might work, shim down the bushing plate. But it is a pain to have to go that route. It is ridiculous that these tool manufacturers are using so much locktite that you can't get a chuck off of a drill! I guess they don't expect people to change chucks any more, they want you to go out and just buy a new drill. From what I can tell, ridgid is bad with this and Home Depot was no help at all.

Just an update with my set up. It worked great! I was burnin holes with no problem. Unfortunately, the drill I have also has the weakest battery they make for this drill so I'll have to go and buy a better battery if I wanna drill more than 20 holes in a day. But as it stands, I got it workin!

[jonr42]

Yea!!! I finally won the war with getting my Ridgid hammer drill chuck off. First i tried a Snap on 1/2" air impact gun, No luck. Then I trial a 3ft breaker bar and a mini sledge hammer with the drill in a vice. Finally I used a blowtorch to carefully and slowly heat the inside of the drill chuck. I put a 1/2" allen in the chuck, and pulled on the breakerbar. There was a small "snap" and the chuck spun right off. I couldn't believe how much of a difference the heat made. I used hardly any pressure at all, I was shocked when it broke free!! After fighting with it all weekend, I am so happy that I finally have the drill on the Clam plate! The trigger works nice and smooth, and now that the chuck nightmare is behind me I love the weight and function of this setup! Cant wait to try it out this week. Thank you to everyone  for all of you help and advice. Im glad I found this website! Fish on     

[Spider1]

good deal! Congrats! I'm gonna use mine as it is now but after ice out I'm gonna put the torch to this thing. It will either give or melt

[Ice Scratcher]

I just cant grasp the concept of removing your chuck to run a drill bit...

I love my adapter, although, my drill has the extra handle bar.

I could see the plate helping with drills that don't have the handle bar...

I'll buy an auger plate the day they make one that...

1) no need to remove the chuck
2) has a slightly lower gear ratio for 8" holes...

<*)))>{

[kc_]

I just cant grasp the concept of removing your chuck to run a drill bit...

I love my adapter, although, my drill has the extra handle bar.

I could see the plate helping with drills that don't have the handle bar...

I'll buy an auger plate the day they make one that...

1) no need to remove the chuck
2) has a slightly lower gear ratio for 8" holes...

Look at the DORA thread, you will like that one.

<*)))>{

[peteinvermont]

I just cant grasp the concept of removing your chuck to run a drill bit...

I love my adapter, although, my drill has the extra handle bar.

I could see the plate helping with drills that don't have the handle bar...

I'll buy an auger plate the day they make one that...

1) no need to remove the chuck
2) has a slightly lower gear ratio for 8" holes...

<*)))>{

Sorry if I missed it in the thread - but what adapter are you referring to?

[kc_]

just an adapter from the drill to the auger. No plate involved.

[Ice Scratcher]

I just cant grasp the concept of removing your chuck to run a drill bit...

I love my adapter, although, my drill has the extra handle bar.

I could see the plate helping with drills that don't have the handle bar...

I'll buy an auger plate the day they make one that...

1) no need to remove the chuck
2) has a slightly lower gear ratio for 8" holes...

<*)))>{

Just going through reading old threads and thought this was pretty funny.. I'm going to hold myself to my word too...

<°)))>{

[OldSailor]

Just going through reading old threads and thought this was pretty funny.. I'm going to hold myself to my word too...

<°)))>{

Have you got your order in yet??

[Ice Scratcher]

Have you got your order in yet??

No I imagine it would take a credit card to do that, I have never had one...

<°)))>{