Visit the Team Iceshanty Proshop
Its not the same ... trust me ..... i have both and the Fin Bore requires way more effort .... the nils is effortless
I have used both as well.. Couldnt tell any difference, thats why I bought the Fin Bore..
So, Chi, have you gotten the info you wanted on the K-Drill system? I would purchase their complete system if it were me. It looks pretty good. Light weight - for me, I would have to carry one spare battery; not too bad a deal. Not cheap, but the "good" things in life are never cheap.
Please, less of the tired Nils vs. Finbore debate-- stay on thread. So far one bad review of the K-Drill & a couple positive(?) I love the idea of chipper blades which rarely need replacement/sharpening according to Vexilar ad. I go thru a fresh set of 6" lazer blades a season. Gets costly... PS I've always babied my lazer blades, swedish made only. They just dont hold up on my cordless rig.
I use the 4 1/2 orange nils and love it. I jig for perch and the old crank bothers my shoulders. That being said i jig perch mostly. Not many in use Vermont but there will be. Lots have watched mine work and are impressed. One guy bought one and cursed me until I saw he was trying to run on high speed and his tourqe was too low. Cut super after he went to slow speed and high torque. now he loves it.
@ crispycritter, did you ever get your k-drill ? your last post said shipment delayed due to weather.@ luv2fish2, how did you like yours?this topic never went any where.i am not looking to buy another auger, but wanted to hear more about this thing.was reading this about it and wondered why one would buy it if not opening old holes out side of an ice house.sounds like you would need two augers, one for making new ice holes and this one to reopen them.Here is the ultimate drill assembly designed for hand held cordless electric drills. Using high carbon steel chipper blades, this Drill assembly is designed specifically for re-drilling old holes.The composite flutes are not designed to throw ice shavings around the inside of your fish house, but instead is designed to make it very easy to remove the ice without getting ice all over the floor.
Percheater you say slow speed #1 and high torque, referring to high torque do you mean the numbers 1-24 on the dial ? please correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the numbers 1-24 (clutch slip settings is only for screwing) only come into play when the drill is set to screw mode. When using the drill in drill mode like you should for drilling holes, I found no difference what the number setting was. If there's something I'm missing here please explain.
Just like in the promo video, drill should be set on #1, and drill mode. That gives you the correct speed and torque that the angle of the blades are set for.
You guys have any updates.....was thinking of going from a nils 8in to a K-drill 8in.
BlackDucksAndBrownDogsThanks for the info!i found this for yahttp://www.fishingbuddy.com/cordless-drill-8-nils-vs-8-kdrill
yup, i read after posting the link. dudes bonkers and works construction with a dewalt. now that there is funny.i read a mixed review on how it cuts from one member above saying it cuts more aggresive but he can cut with one hand.i also read from the link i posted that that nills has two styles, one for hand crank blue flyte with orange ctter head and one for drills orange flighting with a black cutting head.i see the one in for sale is still there or he hasn't closed the sale. i ask myself any time some one is selling is "why doesn't he want it any more, worn out, bent, not as good as hoped for"? so i opt for new.did you ever get that rattle rod that hangs from the top tube from the link i gave ya?
so i don't know the differences between the two nills, if the black one would give you more of what your looking for or not. i reopen plenty of holes with my lazers and drill. but then i only use a 6" and a 4". sounds like the k-drill will too.rattle reel/pole you should be able to order one now and if they try to charge for too many you can do a dispute with the credit card issuer. they call it a charge back and that cost about 50$ each. can't do that with a debit card tho.i would help you make them if you were closer. if you want, i'll make the pipe(s) anyway if you want to cover costs. conduit is some thing like 4$ for 8-10 feet. i have a bender (they cost starting at 35$) and would end up making my self a few while i was at it. if you do make some, you can make them as long/short as you want for your hut and placment. the clips look like otter or eskimos, not shappell. shappells are like a T, but the top of the T is a C (the C is facing upwords) instead and so it would pull straight down. good for forces pushing into it, but not away from it. i would add a top safety strap/loop to keep from loosing it down the hole.i made spreader bars (3) for my flip for windy days to keep the front onto the ice and for my suitcase shanty (2) to keep the wind from pushing in the wide walls, is why i wanted the bender. no one makes them either. they still don't either, but they should.
when you say here is the ultimate drill assembly and reopening old holes are you talking about the k-drill?, i have a permanent and also hole hop and would love to find a drill to do both with my new clam plate/Milwaukee 18v drill set-up
Here are some results with my K-drill. first time out temperaturere 5 degrees, ice thickness 14" using a ridgid 18V 3.0AH batteries- 8 holes per battery...second time out, 7 degrees, drilled two 24" holes-one battery and didn't move after that. K-drill goes though Ice like butter and is very light. I would recommend the Milwaukee 18V brushless fuel cell drill with the 4.0AH Batteries. IMO---- Let me know what you drill is and how many holes you get and ice thickness. good luck.