IceShanty.com's Ice Fishing Community
Ice Fishing Tips -Check your local regulations! => Equipment => Ice Augers => Topic started by: Chi on Jan 11, 2014, 06:11 AM
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Does anyone own this drill auger.. Looking for reviews on this.
http://icefishingtoday.com/pages/buy_ice_fishing_accesories.php
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200$$$ :cookoo: looks like it cuts right through
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Buy a nils drill auger (orange).
What is your plan if the drill breaks while you are on the ice? No handle to attach....
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Buy a nils drill auger (orange).
What is your plan if the drill breaks while you are on the ice? No handle to attach....
Do you own a nils drill auger ?? If you do how do you like it??
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1" a second is pretty good compared to some guy's augers that take them forever to get through the ice. I was at a lake yesterday and I swear this one guy was taking over 5 minutes to get through the 18"of ice. My Z51 was right at 12-13 seconds per hole. Which is a lot faster then the 1" per second.
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My buddy has one, cuts like a hot knife through butter. Not even comparable to a SM lazer which I've been using since I could walk.
I also witnessed the 5 minute hole yesterday. I popped 11 with my mako 8" and checked them all with the marcum before he was done with one hole. I'm drilling about 18" in 10-11 seconds, I bet your z51 is faster than that.
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Not only was it taking that guy a long time to drill but he was a heavy set guy and was using his weight as much as possible to push it threw.
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Those augers taking that long has nothing to do with make or model.. Its called poor maintenance. Sounds like his blades are garbage. With will cause any auger to cut like crap.
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Those augers taking that long has nothing to do with make or model.. Its called poor maintenance. Sounds like his blades are garbage. With will cause any auger to cut like crap.
Oh I know poor maintenance, dual blades and or point and no idea the blades could be sharpened. I was just saying how funny it is. By the way his auger was an Eskimo that wouldn't go through the ice.
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Do you own a nils drill auger ?? If you do how do you like it??
I just got one …. it's plain old awesome ;D
The only negative i can think of is the stinking thing cuts so well manually that there is really no need to bother with the drill ;)
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I do not have one but doesn't the nils replacement blade cost 100.00 bucks ?
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I do not have one but doesn't the nils replacement blade cost 100.00 bucks ?
Yah that about right, and 40$ to get sharpened..
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Buy a nils drill auger (orange).
What is your plan if the drill breaks while you are on the ice? No handle to attach....
My buddy literally gave his cordless drill Nils head away due to wear at post into chuck. Metal was twisted to the point of failure. Be warned...
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My K drill should be here today. ;D cant wait to take her on a test run..
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My K drill should be here today. ;D cant wait to take her on a test run..
Here are some results with my K-drill. first time out temperaturere 5 degrees, ice thickness 14" using a ridgid 18V 3.0AH batteries- 8 holes per battery...second time out, 7 degrees, drilled two 24" holes-one battery and didn't move after that. K-drill goes though Ice like butter and is very light. I would recommend the Milwaukee 18V brushless fuel cell drill with the 4.0AH Batteries. IMO---- Let me know what you drill is and how many holes you get and ice thickness. good luck.
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I used one two weeks ago with a 20 volt dewalt we drilled 20 holes in 12'' of ice with lots of power left.. I hope mine works the same. I have one place that i fish that I cant use a power auger that's why I bought one. I will give a review.
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Im sure the one I tried out was 8'' I went with the 6''
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Im sure the one I tried out was 8'' I went with the 6''
I have a six inch K-drill....Do you know what the Dewalt battery AH was.
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I have the dewalt drill 20 volt lithium and a porter cable 20 volt lithium.. Plan on trying both Ill let you know how I made out.
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Not sure on the Dewalt but I will check when I get to work
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Yah that about right, and 40$ to get sharpened..
$20 to sharpen + shipping, both ways. I sent 2 heads to Frank this summer - $53.50 total. Unless you really mess with your NILs, you will never have to buy another head. I carry a spare, most of time.
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$20 to sharpen + shipping, both ways. I sent 2 heads to Frank this summer - $53.50 total. Unless you really mess with your NILs, you will never have to buy another head. I carry a spare, most of time.
Do you hand crank or use a drill ? the price of the new blade is was pushed me away from the Nils not the performance ive heard good reviews on the Nils....
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Do you hand crank or use a drill ? the price of the new blade is was pushed me away from the Nils not the performance ive heard good reviews on the Nils....
8" NILs - I hand-crank till I start going out with the wheeler; then it's an IceGator powerhead. Been looking at alternative power options. Likely would go to a 6" NILs if I use a drill.
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$20 to sharpen + shipping, both ways. I sent 2 heads to Frank this summer - $53.50 total. Unless you really mess with your NILs, you will never have to buy another head. I carry a spare, most of time.
Yup, you buy another head to have as a spare just incase. Carrying the box around that the head is in is an inconvenience as well. Nothing like just a couple blades you can stick in your box.
Thats why I went with a Fin Bore III auger. Cheaper, cuts like a nils, offset handles, and uses strikemaster lazer blades.
I can slap it right into my ion, or drill as well by just removing the handle.
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Yup, you buy another head to have as a spare just incase. Carrying the box around that the head is in is an inconvenience as well. Nothing like just a couple blades you can stick in your box.
Thats why I went with a Fin Bore III auger. Cheaper, cuts like a nils, offset handles, and uses strikemaster lazer blades.
I can slap it right into my ion, or drill as well by just removing the handle.
The spare head stays in the truck. I carry a 6" FinBore Micro as a spare auger, on the ice. I like Finbore, but it it ain't a NILs.
What's really nice is that we have such a wide selection of gear to choose from, today. @) We can spend as much, or as little $$$ as we want, and still get the job done.
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I like Finbore, but it it ain't a NILs.
I taped a 100 dollar bill to the handle of mine (thats what I saved vs a nils, not including a spare head) and painted it the same color as a Nils. You would never tell the difference =)
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I taped a 100 dollar bill to the handle of mine (thats what I saved vs a nils, not including a spare head) and painted it the same color as a Nils. You would never tell the difference =)
You could blindfold me and I could tell the difference. Well, I could tell you which one was a NILs. @)
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You could blindfold me and I could tell the difference. Well, I could tell you which one was a NILs. @)
No question about that ...... the Nils is the one you just spin and don't need ANY downward pressure ;D
It's a monstrous difference on beat up 50 year old shoulders ;)
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No question about that ...... the Nils is the one you just spin and don't need ANY downward pressure ;D
My Fin Bore works the same way.
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My Fin Bore works the same way.
Its not the same ... trust me ..... i have both and the Fin Bore requires way more effort .... the nils is effortless ;)
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Its not the same ... trust me ..... i have both and the Fin Bore requires way more effort .... the nils is effortless ;)
I have used both as well.. Couldnt tell any difference, thats why I bought the Fin Bore..
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I have used both as well.. Couldnt tell any difference, thats why I bought the Fin Bore..
wait until you turn 50 .... and ruin your shoulder using an 8 inch mora in 18 inches of ice :o .... the downward pressure that the FIn Bore requires makes it noticably tougher to drill a hole.
I can go through 18 inches with the nils and i don't feel a thing ;D
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Ill skip the ruining my shoulder part. And as mentioned before. I havent had to apply any downward pressure on my fin bore. Just crank till your thru..
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So, Chi, have you gotten the info you wanted on the K-Drill system? I would purchase their complete system if it were me. It looks pretty good. Light weight - for me, I would have to carry one spare battery; not too bad a deal. Not cheap, but the "good" things in life are never cheap. ;)
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so crispy critter how's the "k" drill working out thinking of one maybe next year i'm having good luck so far with my 6" lazer and milwaukee fuel 18 volt drill just gotta get over the 250.00 price for an 8"
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I didn't get it yet :'( :'( tracking changed to diverse weather . So I'm thinking Monday I hope anywhoo
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So, Chi, have you gotten the info you wanted on the K-Drill system? I would purchase their complete system if it were me. It looks pretty good. Light weight - for me, I would have to carry one spare battery; not too bad a deal. Not cheap, but the "good" things in life are never cheap. ;)
I'm using the 6" k-drill with the ridgid 18V hammer, Ridgid is a good drill but I think the Milwaukee would have been the better choice., just didn't want to spend the extra $100. I'm having trouble getting use to a 6" hole, never had less than a 7" hole. To answer you, Yes all my questions have been answered.
Good fishing
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Please, less of the tired Nils vs. Finbore debate-- stay on thread. So far one bad review of the K-Drill & a couple positive(?) I love the idea of chipper blades which rarely need replacement/sharpening according to Vexilar ad. I go thru a fresh set of 6" lazer blades a season. Gets costly... PS I've always babied my lazer blades, swedish made only. They just dont hold up on my cordless rig.
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Please, less of the tired Nils vs. Finbore debate-- stay on thread. So far one bad review of the K-Drill & a couple positive(?) I love the idea of chipper blades which rarely need replacement/sharpening according to Vexilar ad. I go thru a fresh set of 6" lazer blades a season. Gets costly... PS I've always babied my lazer blades, swedish made only. They just dont hold up on my cordless rig.
Thanks Townie, :clap: Yes lets Please stay on thread.
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I use the 4 1/2 orange nils and love it. I jig for perch and the old crank bothers my shoulders. That being said i jig perch mostly. Not many in use Vermont but there will be. Lots have watched mine work and are impressed. One guy bought one and cursed me until I saw he was trying to run on high speed and his tourqe was too low. Cut super after he went to slow speed and high torque. now he loves it.
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What kind of blades does the k drill use ? did i read that right above you can also use a hand crank with them ?
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never seen a hand crank i don't think there is such a thing ( maybe a nils) just got a k drill haven't had a chance to use it yet had to order an adapter from vexilar they are on a 5 day back log for now gonna use 6" lazer can't wait to try out the k drill
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@ crispycritter, did you ever get your k-drill ? your last post said shipment delayed due to weather.
@ luv2fish2, how did you like yours?
this topic never went any where.
i am not looking to buy another auger, but wanted to hear more about this thing.
was reading this about it and wondered why one would buy it if not opening old holes out side of an ice house.
sounds like you would need two augers, one for making new ice holes and this one to reopen them.
Here is the ultimate drill assembly designed for hand held cordless electric drills. Using high carbon steel chipper blades, this Drill assembly is designed specifically for re-drilling old holes.
The composite flutes are not designed to throw ice shavings around the inside of your fish house, but instead is designed to make it very easy to remove the ice without getting ice all over the floor.
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I use the 4 1/2 orange nils and love it. I jig for perch and the old crank bothers my shoulders. That being said i jig perch mostly. Not many in use Vermont but there will be. Lots have watched mine work and are impressed. One guy bought one and cursed me until I saw he was trying to run on high speed and his tourqe was too low. Cut super after he went to slow speed and high torque. now he loves it.
Percheater you say slow speed #1 and high torque, referring to high torque do you mean the numbers 1-24 on the dial ? please correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the numbers 1-24 (clutch slip settings is only for screwing) only come into play when the drill is set to screw mode. When using the drill in drill mode like you should for drilling holes, I found no difference what the number setting was. If there's something I'm missing here please explain.
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@ crispycritter, did you ever get your k-drill ? your last post said shipment delayed due to weather.
@ luv2fish2, how did you like yours?
this topic never went any where.
i am not looking to buy another auger, but wanted to hear more about this thing.
was reading this about it and wondered why one would buy it if not opening old holes out side of an ice house.
sounds like you would need two augers, one for making new ice holes and this one to reopen them.
Here is the ultimate drill assembly designed for hand held cordless electric drills. Using high carbon steel chipper blades, this Drill assembly is designed specifically for re-drilling old holes.
The composite flutes are not designed to throw ice shavings around the inside of your fish house, but instead is designed to make it very easy to remove the ice without getting ice all over the floor.
The description is poorly worded. What they mean to say is that the K-Drill is designed to do what other hand augers can't -- (1) rip through ice to drill fresh holes, (2) effortlessly re-open old holes, and (3) leave clean holes with minimum slush and shavings.
I've been using a 6" K-Drill since mid-January. It replaced a Lazer and was well worth the money. It's faster and, due to design, allows me to drill overlapping holes if needed. It doesn't catch at the bottom of the hole . And, since it leaves almost no slush, I rarely have to use a skimmer, thus saving time.
It's also incredibly light.
It only has one downside -- it's very aggressive and places more demand on the drill. With 3ah batteries, I get a little over 300" of ice per. I got almost 350" with my Lazer. You want 4ah batteries with the K-Drill.
That said, I literally can drill one-handed. I just brace the torque handle on my torso and squeeze the trigger. With no downward force it cuts better than an inch per second.
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ok here's the goods ;D i used a 6" kdrill worked better than a lazer higher speed less stoppage on the last bit of ice drilled alot of holes 20 to be exact threw 10"+ of ice still had 3/4 of my battery ( i use a milwaukee 18 volt brushless hammer drill ) was using that setup hooked directly to my drill mine is that the way to go if you travel light tried to hook it to my clam plate wouldn't go i had an early production auger sent it back to vexilar they took it in exchange for an 8" kdrill tried that out last weekend on erie lots of ice 10-24" got 12 to 14 holes on 1 4ah battery on the clam plate definately want the plate if your using an 8" its a beast very happy with the setup if you drill alot of holes ( over 20-25) in thick ice i'd opted for a 6" but i like the 8" next year i'll pickup a 5ah when the price comes down a little . p.s. i cannot say enough good things about greg bleck from vexilar tech service the guy is great a+++++ customer service my 2cents worth the cash if you can afford it or find one used like me ;) ;D
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Percheater you say slow speed #1 and high torque, referring to high torque do you mean the numbers 1-24 on the dial ? please correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the numbers 1-24 (clutch slip settings is only for screwing) only come into play when the drill is set to screw mode. When using the drill in drill mode like you should for drilling holes, I found no difference what the number setting was. If there's something I'm missing here please explain.
Just like in the promo video, drill should be set on #1, and drill mode. That gives you the correct speed and torque that the angle of the blades are set for. ;D
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Just like in the promo video, drill should be set on #1, and drill mode. That gives you the correct speed and torque that the angle of the blades are set for. ;D
agree totally
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You guys have any updates.....was thinking of going from a nils 8in to a K-drill 8in.
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BlackDucksAndBrownDogs
Thanks for the info!
You guys have any updates.....was thinking of going from a nils 8in to a K-drill 8in.
i found this for ya
http://www.fishingbuddy.com/cordless-drill-8-nils-vs-8-kdrill
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BlackDucksAndBrownDogs
Thanks for the info!
i found this for ya
http://www.fishingbuddy.com/cordless-drill-8-nils-vs-8-kdrill
Man checked out that post........the dude is kinda clueless. If he is trying to spin an 8in auger it is going to burn up drills unless he gets a good quality high tourque drill. Trying to use a dewalt brushed drill and a 8in auger is just a little :cookoo: :cookoo: I ran my 8in nils from dec to the end of the season cut 20 holes an outing on average in 24in of ice no problem. Only reason to move towards a K-Drill would be to reopen holes.
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yup, i read after posting the link. dudes bonkers and works construction with a dewalt. now that there is funny.
i read a mixed review on how it cuts from one member above saying it cuts more aggresive but he can cut with one hand.
i also read from the link i posted that that nills has two styles, one for hand crank blue flyte with orange ctter head and one for drills orange flighting with a black cutting head.
i see the one in for sale is still there or he hasn't closed the sale. i ask myself any time some one is selling is "why doesn't he want it any more, worn out, bent, not as good as hoped for"? so i opt for new.
did you ever get that rattle rod that hangs from the top tube from the link i gave ya?
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yup, i read after posting the link. dudes bonkers and works construction with a dewalt. now that there is funny.
i read a mixed review on how it cuts from one member above saying it cuts more aggresive but he can cut with one hand.
i also read from the link i posted that that nills has two styles, one for hand crank blue flyte with orange ctter head and one for drills orange flighting with a black cutting head.
i see the one in for sale is still there or he hasn't closed the sale. i ask myself any time some one is selling is "why doesn't he want it any more, worn out, bent, not as good as hoped for"? so i opt for new.
did you ever get that rattle rod that hangs from the top tube from the link i gave ya?
No, I called in after I tried and they had 5 different charges on my two cards I tried. The website kept saying it didn't go through. So I called them and canceled all transactions. Once they are all cleaned off, I plan to call in an order for one. Other wise I might find a conduit bender and make one.
I do know nils has a black bladed drill head. I don't know if it would make a difference or not for a lower end/tourque drill. I never had a problem with my 8in red bladed nils. However I always have used the M18 fuel brushless drill.
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so i don't know the differences between the two nills, if the black one would give you more of what your looking for or not.
i reopen plenty of holes with my lazers and drill. but then i only use a 6" and a 4". sounds like the k-drill will too.
rattle reel/pole
you should be able to order one now and if they try to charge for too many you can do a dispute with the credit card issuer. they call it a charge back and that cost about 50$ each. can't do that with a debit card tho.
i would help you make them if you were closer. if you want, i'll make the pipe(s) anyway if you want to cover costs. conduit is some thing like 4$ for 8-10 feet. i have a bender (they cost starting at 35$) and would end up making my self a few while i was at it. if you do make some, you can make them as long/short as you want for your hut and placment. the clips look like otter or eskimos, not shappell. shappells are like a T, but the top of the T is a C (the C is facing upwords) instead and so it would pull straight down. good for forces pushing into it, but not away from it. i would add a top safety strap/loop to keep from loosing it down the hole.
i made spreader bars (3) for my flip for windy days to keep the front onto the ice and for my suitcase shanty (2) to keep the wind from pushing in the wide walls, is why i wanted the bender. no one makes them either. they still don't either, but they should.
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so i don't know the differences between the two nills, if the black one would give you more of what your looking for or not.
i reopen plenty of holes with my lazers and drill. but then i only use a 6" and a 4". sounds like the k-drill will too.
rattle reel/pole
you should be able to order one now and if they try to charge for too many you can do a dispute with the credit card issuer. they call it a charge back and that cost about 50$ each. can't do that with a debit card tho.
i would help you make them if you were closer. if you want, i'll make the pipe(s) anyway if you want to cover costs. conduit is some thing like 4$ for 8-10 feet. i have a bender (they cost starting at 35$) and would end up making my self a few while i was at it. if you do make some, you can make them as long/short as you want for your hut and placment. the clips look like otter or eskimos, not shappell. shappells are like a T, but the top of the T is a C (the C is facing upwords) instead and so it would pull straight down. good for forces pushing into it, but not away from it. i would add a top safety strap/loop to keep from loosing it down the hole.
i made spreader bars (3) for my flip for windy days to keep the front onto the ice and for my suitcase shanty (2) to keep the wind from pushing in the wide walls, is why i wanted the bender. no one makes them either. they still don't either, but they should.
I'll probably get a conduit bender, it would be handy for lots of fun little projects.
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@ crispycritter, did you ever get your k-drill ? your last post said shipment delayed due to weather.
@ luv2fish2, how did you like yours?
this topic never went any where.
i am not looking to buy another auger, but wanted to hear more about this thing.
was reading this about it and wondered why one would buy it if not opening old holes out side of an ice house.
sounds like you would need two augers, one for making new ice holes and this one to reopen them.
Here is the ultimate drill assembly designed for hand held cordless electric drills. Using high carbon steel chipper blades, this Drill assembly is designed specifically for re-drilling old holes.
The composite flutes are not designed to throw ice shavings around the inside of your fish house, but instead is designed to make it very easy to remove the ice without getting ice all over the floor.
when you say here is the ultimate drill assembly and reopening old holes are you talking about the k-drill?, i have a permanent and also hole hop and would love to find a drill to do both with my new clam plate/Milwaukee 18v drill set-up
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when you say here is the ultimate drill assembly and reopening old holes are you talking about the k-drill?, i have a permanent and also hole hop and would love to find a drill to do both with my new clam plate/Milwaukee 18v drill set-up
that was a quote from the manufacturer.
i don't own a k auger and from the sounds of it i don't want one either after reading this post. i can drill over 50 holes with my 6 inch lazer and my 24 volt ridgid drill that is only around 600 inch pounds. i have the new gen5x ridgid that has 782 inch pounds and should make even more holes per battery. i do over lap holes and reopen old holes most of the time and drill bad angles when drilling. with my 4 inch i can almost double the holes.
Here are some results with my K-drill. first time out temperaturere 5 degrees, ice thickness 14" using a ridgid 18V 3.0AH batteries- 8 holes per battery...second time out, 7 degrees, drilled two 24" holes-one battery and didn't move after that. K-drill goes though Ice like butter and is very light. I would recommend the Milwaukee 18V brushless fuel cell drill with the 4.0AH Batteries. IMO---- Let me know what you drill is and how many holes you get and ice thickness. good luck.
only 2 holes holes and puked. thats crazy! i would try a different auger and if its the same or worse, i'd get new batteries as they are free any way. maybe you let them freeze? no wonder you recommend a different brand drill. somethings either wrong with yours or you use froozen batteries. you can get the 4 amp batteries for yours on amazon being the cheapest, but no lifetime warranty, just 3 years like the rest of the stuff on the market.
as for slush in an ice house, i make my holes then slide my shack over/up to the holes or in the pop up i make them inside and push the slush to the wind side walls to block light/wind. in the open, i want the slush to use as a wind barracade on the windy side. i have 3 different shacks, you drill out side for 2 and inside for the other.
and as i said i reopen holes the same as new ice, makes no difference to me, in fact i'd rather reopen a hole than make more un-needed mounds of ice.
just keep fresh/sharp blades on. never push down and maybe lift some instead mostly when breaking thru the bottom of the ice.
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i would recommend k drill in 6" i got an 8" i like it, had a 6" to start with i dunno why i thought i needed an 8" with a 6" you can just drill connecting holes the center point makes it possible plus it makes it open old holes . my 2cents is this was made for a drill not a converted hand auger it's got very agressive chipper blades that can easily be resharpened ( no weird angles ) and its super light only bad thing i've found is the price everything else rocks i tried almost every other auger settled on this with a milwaukee 18 volt fuel hammer drill pricey but you know what they say about men and boy's it's the price of the toys oh yeah i use a clam plate also my choice but if ya wanna go light drop it not slammin anyone else just answering about k drill still lemme know any other questions good luck
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thanks luv2 fish...I am going with the k-drill now, made up my mind...just cant decide whether to go with an 8 or not??? leaning toward the 6"??? fish with a 8" always now and hate to downsize??? man I cant make up my mind :-\ :-\ do a lot of re-drilling holes in my permy and don't know if the 8 will be good for that? any experience re-drilling with the 8????
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Looking for an electric system. How does the K drill compare to an ION Electric?
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Looking for an electric system. How does the K drill compare to an ION Electric?
Was contemplating between these two also... I didn't have a brushless drill that would handle it so I went the ION route. Picked one up for $400 after thanksgiving, which is comparable to a K-drill/Millwaukee Fuel setup. I really didn't need another drill, the drill that I have is fine for the applications that I use it on. The ION drills about 2x the holes as the K-drill.
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Anyone have any videos or know of any videos of a k-drill on the clam plate?
Thanks!
Luva
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Anyone have any videos or know of any videos of a k-drill on the clam plate?
Thanks!
Luva
Jason Mitchell's got two ice shows that he used the kdrill on the clam plate but their so brief that you dont really get to see in full use :(
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Jason Mitchell's got two ice shows that he used the kdrill on the clam plate but their so brief that you dont really get to see in full use :(
I just watched this the other day. It was pretty sweet. I also watched one where they were using a Clam auger. Looked like a solo motor on it. My wife told me if it took me as long to drill a hole for her as the Clam took she would cut my nuts off. LOL
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I just watched this the other day. It was pretty sweet. I also watched one where they were using a Clam auger. Looked like a solo motor on it. My wife told me if it took me as long to drill a hole for her as the Clam took she would cut my nuts off. LOL
That's funnie! Show her the video of the IceGator! :woot:
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That's funnie! Show her the video of the IceGator! :woot:
That's what I have a Gator with Nils and a Tanaka with Nils
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Was contemplating between these two also... I didn't have a brushless drill that would handle it so I went the ION route. Picked one up for $400 after thanksgiving, which is comparable to a K-drill/Millwaukee Fuel setup. I really didn't need another drill, the drill that I have is fine for the applications that I use it on. The ION drills about 2x the holes as the K-drill.
How did you come to your 2x the K-drill numbers ? What are the weight comparisons?
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How did you come to your 2x the K-drill numbers ? What are the weight comparisons?
The you tube product video claims 20 holes in 20" of ice with a 6" auger. Ion claims 40 holes through 24" of ice on a 8" auger. No hole count on 8" but am guessing 10-12 per battery. Weight is about 12# compared to 22# for the Ion.
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Who has any experience or have used a similar setup?
This is the setup that Kluge recommended or sold in past. Its a Tanaka 270 PFL (24:1 gear) powerhead on a Kluge (Kdrill) auger.
Now I recently got a great deal on a Tanaka 270 PFR (20:1 gear, w/reverse) powerhead, looking to run it on the 8" Kdrill.
For those who cant seem to grasp going all electric and worry about thick ice this will be your calling. This whole setup likely weighs 17lbs-18lbs and be ideal to run and gun on the ice all day long if thats your thing.
(http://i68.tinypic.com/2dilily.png)