Author Topic: Bobber/Rubber band method to detect bites (Read 10671 times)

Luffy · « **on:** Mar 07, 2007, 09:29 PM »

I use a combination of a small piece of rubber band tied to the line, along with a tiny bobber clipped below it. Attach just one end of the bobber to the line, turning the clamp sideways so the bobber can slide freely up and down the line When you send the jig to the bottom, the rubber band piece will meet the bobber as it freely floats to the surface... determine what depth you want to jig at, and slide the rubber band down (or up) your line so it sits just below the water surface... the bobber will be floating against the rubber band As you jig, the bobber will move in a constant rhythmic motion... if you see the bobber stop, or deviate in any way from its motion, you got a bite... I swear by this method, and guarantee that when used properly, it will detect even the smallest, slightest bites... I learned this a while back from an oldtimer, so I'm sure that there's guys out there using this method, but I've shown it to guys on the ice, and more times than not, they say they've never seen that...

I don't know if I really explained it clearly, but it's really pretty easy to do.... This wont work though, unless the bobber is small enough to be pulled under by the weight of the jig...

fshnfool · « **Reply #1 on:** Mar 07, 2007, 09:35 PM »

so the rubber band is there to force the bobber down when you get a bite or to keep the bobber under water while you jig?

Luffy · « **Reply #2 on:** Mar 07, 2007, 09:44 PM »

The rubber band serves two purposes:

1) it is a depth marker to remind you how much line to put down to what depth you want your jig at
2) as you jig, it cause the free floating bobber to bob up and down in a rhythm

It sounds weird, but when you do it right, and watch the bobbers rhythm, you will be able to spot a bite when the rhythm changes or the bobber stops entirely. You will see bites because of this that you would never feel on your line. I imagine it is comparable to the performance of a spring bobber, but it works differently, and not as much work to set up

Ill try to take a pic and/or video to post next time I go out... seeing it actually happening explains it all

Luffy · « **Reply #3 on:** Mar 07, 2007, 09:46 PM »

As you're jigging, the rubber band goes up and down (with your line), because the bobber is floating right underneath it, loose on the line, the bobber begins its rhythm.. you can detect bites from changes in motion, or lack thereof, no matter how you jig, just as long as you're in tune with what the bobber does as you do it any changes signals a bite

fshnfool · « **Reply #4 on:** Mar 07, 2007, 09:49 PM »

oh I'm sure it does.....reason I asked is I just landed my first laker on a jig rod last weekend and almost didn't even know I had a bite, because it hit on the drop....like I've heard the do often. just curious if this method will help in detecting the hit on the drop? I can visualize how the set up is....it's the "in action" that I'm curious about.

thanks

Luffy · « **Reply #5 on:** Mar 07, 2007, 10:01 PM »

It will absolutely detect a hit on the drop... when the jig is going down, the line obviously goes with it, until there's no more slack. As long as the portion of line with the rubber band (pushing the bobber down) is dropping too, it will work. When the fish grabs the lure, even slightly, the line will go slack just a little bit. When that happens, even if you can't see the line going slack, the rubber band/bobber will instantly stop sinking, signaling a bite.

A couple things with this I just thought of though; this is a proven method with small, panfish sized jigs... I've never tried to modify it for larger fish, but I'm sure it would work

The thing is that the actual line is really important. Light line with a lot of stretch in it, or line that doesn't sink real well will throw the whole thing off... I use Power Pro line (2lbs diameter, 8lbs test) ((I think))... it has almost no stretch to it, and sinks right away with whatever jig I'm using... anyway, as long as your jig weight and line correspond so that the line drops quickly and doesn't float, it will work.

This method is great for hits on the drop

Luffy · « **Reply #6 on:** Mar 07, 2007, 10:02 PM »

Sorry, I probably could've answered your question in one sentence.... I tend to get a little wordy...

fshnfool · « **Reply #7 on:** Mar 07, 2007, 10:13 PM »

well put it this way.....I'm gonna use the set up this weekend and let ya know how I make out....

Luffy · « **Reply #8 on:** Mar 08, 2007, 09:32 AM »

Definately let me know...

RebelIceFshr · « **Reply #9 on:** Mar 09, 2007, 07:17 AM »

OK.......... what I gather is the while jigging, you never bring the rubber band out of the water. Doing so will cause the bobber to float to the surface and you'd miss the strike. The rubber band stops the bobber from floating to the surface, so your watching the bobber, not your line.
Why not clip the float under the surface so that it doesn't slide on the line?

That way it's one less item to mess with, or tie a colored rubber band on the line and use it only?

I think I understand the concept, just making comments.

Mooter · « **Reply #10 on:** Mar 09, 2007, 03:10 PM »

I have used a similiar method only using a piece of dacron instead of a rubber band. It seems to go throught the eye's of the rod fairly well when reeling a fish in but one thing. Does your method work with tempatures below freezing. I often fish without my shanty but still below freezing and the ice gets built up on the line and the bobber causing the bobber not to slide on the line. Has this happened to you?

Luffy · « **Reply #11 on:** Mar 09, 2007, 04:13 PM »

RebelIceFshr,

You bring up a good point; I suppose it work like that too... never tried it.. once I get that rubber band on, it works great, so I've never toyed with it... but I might try your suggestion too..

Mooter,

Never had a problem with the bobber freezing, as its always underwater.. what does happen though is I get ice build up on the line just outside the water, which messes with my presentation... every couple minutes, I have to run the line through my mouth to get the ice off... what a pain, these freezing temps!! ha ha ha...

Luffy · « **Reply #12 on:** Mar 16, 2007, 02:49 PM »

Here's a quick video of what I'm talking about... this is from Sodus bay a couple years ago.. I know it's bad quality (had to take the video off of a TV screen; original was a VHS tape) But if you watch closely, you can see the bobber go down before the white rubber band... watch how the jigging rhythm of the bobber changes quickly, signaling a bite; happens quick... never felt that hit either... would have missed him except for the bobber change..

http://s154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/luffyphotos/Ice%20Fishing/?action=view&current=CLIP0004.flv

pot-belly-perch · « **Reply #13 on:** Mar 18, 2007, 05:39 AM »

I tend to use that rubber band trick when I had to much coffee & it works for me I get it set up & when I got it where I want it i trim off the excess rubber band

Steve out

winchester 88 · « **Reply #14 on:** Mar 18, 2007, 06:52 AM »

Question...
From watching the video it appears that your jigging motion is more of a side ways shake than an up and down rythm.
If this is not the case then am I correct in assuming that an up and down rythm would have to be very short or the bobber would be pulled down to where you couldn't see it due to the jig weight?
I think that I can detect the little "flip" that the bobber made when the fish hit on the video...this is much the same thing that happens when using a spring bobber and watching the rythm that it makes..looks like a fun way to fish..
Winchester 88

dav · « **Reply #15 on:** Mar 19, 2007, 09:25 AM »

I swear by the rubber band!! Thats how I started. They actually sell a slip bobber rubber that you can slide on to your line instead of the rubber band. It's oval shaped so it allows you to reel if you desire w/ less probability of getting caught on your eyes and losing your depth. The rubber band knot has a tendency to get caught on the eyes, from the knot (even when trimmed). But overall the rubber (w/out the bobber) alone is awesome, it allows you to see every little bite by the way it looks like it's suspended in the hole, great choice for jiggin. 24 yrs exp

pot-belly-perch · « **Reply #16 on:** Mar 19, 2007, 07:09 PM »

I use that way when i had to much coffee & ua shakeing & when the they bite litely i will use that .....

but it realy works great if the fish are hogging the bottem
realy good that way

Steve Out

Luffy · « **Reply #17 on:** Mar 19, 2007, 09:20 PM »

the jigging motion really doesn't matter, as long as you can spot any change in the rhythm

pot-belly-perch · « **Reply #18 on:** Mar 20, 2007, 03:07 AM »

yes it does
I know are we talking the same damm thing

i am not sure
1st you get your jig down to the bottem with the vexler helping you to the bottem <seeing> if anything is there ??!!@@ maybe there is a fish rubbing the bottem then where I want it is a little way up from the bottem then i use the rubber band i start with a big one ,piece of it then when i get it where i want it
I trim it down I bite it with my teeth then I am set up to do the little red bobber thingie
Hope I helped somebody !!

Steve out

HERMIT43 · « **Reply #19 on:** Mar 20, 2007, 11:44 AM »

Just adding to the coversation, I have been fishing for perch on Oneida using this method for quite a few years, its hard to teach it to some people, others pick it up
fairly soon. Most people that have trouble are using too much travel up and down
I like to just make the bobber "rock", interupted by a few sharp 6" -12" jerks that
seem to draw them in, they seem to intensify on the Vex when i do this. Also
the right bobber is a must, the tiny Plastilite "green caps" are the ticket, I have never really found another one that works that well, I bought them direct from Plastilite Corp.
Obviously variations of this method work better for anyone using it, but once you
fish this way it would be very hard to go back, unless they are really hammering.

Luffy · « **Reply #20 on:** Mar 20, 2007, 02:58 PM »

pot-bellied-perch,

I think we're in the same church, different pew... hermit43 has it right; it's hard to explain this thing without actually showing someone... i don't use a vexler... i just cut a whole, drop it down, and start jigging at different depths for a few minutes.. if there's anything there, I'll usually get a bite and work the hole for a bit... if not, I move to a new hole..

I trim the rubber band down before i even start fishing... just slide it up and down your line to indicate what depth (how far off the bottom) you want your jig..

Uncle Grump · « **Reply #21 on:** Mar 21, 2007, 12:50 PM »

Can someone post a pic of what this set up is supposed to look like?

Call me dense, but I still can't get a image of what this setup is supposed
to look like that makes it differant...

Many thanks

UG

Luffy · « **Reply #22 on:** Mar 21, 2007, 08:16 PM »

I already put away my stuff for the year, so I couldn't get a pic of an actual set-up, but drew you a diagram of the order of things... you can slide the rubber band up and down to use as a depth marker/bobber stop... once it hits the water, the bobber will float up against the rubber band.... you pick how much line you want out... its got to be a small bobber and you have to clip it so it can slide freely up the line..

you're not dense... most people don't pick this up until they actually see it done

winchester 88 · « **Reply #23 on:** Mar 21, 2007, 11:15 PM »

If you are jigging somewhere above bottom,do you want the jig heavier than the bobber can support thus causing the bobber to sink or do you want the jig to be lighter so that the bobber floats?
If the bobber is under the water from the weight of the jig and from what I see in the video,you are not jigging in the normal sense as in raising and lowering the rod say a foot or so at a time but rather you are "jiggling" the bobber to set up a rythm and then watching for a change in the rythm pattern,correct?

Winchester 88

HERMIT43 · « **Reply #24 on:** Mar 22, 2007, 08:33 AM »

correct, the bobber must be sunk, and sunk easily by the jig, thats why just a rubber band works fine also. As i mentioned, i like the little 3/8 green caps bobbers,
almost any jig will sink them easily. If the bobber is almost floating the jig, but still sinking, the setup is too "lazy". One of the most frequent things that i do, if you
suspect you saw a hit, quickly drop the rod tip, if the bobber doesn't drop, set the hook. What is happening is simple, the fish has relieved the bobber of the weight,
which they can do so gently you will never feel it.

Luffy · « **Reply #25 on:** Mar 22, 2007, 02:24 PM »

HERMIT43 has it exactly.

Uncle Grump · « **Reply #26 on:** Mar 23, 2007, 07:40 AM »

Luffy

Thanks for the pic. Ok - another "dense" question....

Why the rubber band vs a ordinary bobber knot/bead?

I'll admit the rubber band should be faster to put on the line.

Have you tryed this w/ open water, or does this work best in a vertical presentation?

Thanks

UG

Luffy · « **Reply #27 on:** Mar 23, 2007, 04:56 PM »

UG,

I suppose the knot/bead would work... never tried it, although the rubber band does go on quick... once you tighten it, you only have to clip off the excess and you're good to go...

Never tried it in open water, but I guess it would work the same way.. I would say it would only really work best with the usual verticle presentation

hardwater61 · « **Reply #28 on:** Mar 29, 2007, 07:08 PM »

This whole set up sounds good. It may take a little while to get use to it but it does sound worth it. My question is about reeling in. Are most of you using this reeling in or pulling in. I'm a reeler especially in deeper water. It appears the rubber band may cause problems with reeling??? It looks like re-setting the rubber band is fairly easy and quick after you do it a couple of times...especially with a vex. Thoughts/angles to this???
Wayne

Luffy · « **Reply #29 on:** Mar 29, 2007, 09:06 PM »

Reeling vs. pulling up all depends on the depth as far as I'm concerned... I rarely have any problems with with the rubber band when I'm reeling in... the knot is usually small enough/tight enough that it goes right through the eyes on the pole w/o any problem.. every now and then it will get hung up on the first eye, but it doesn't affect your retrieve.. the worst that would happen is that you would have to reset the rubber band to reflect your chosen depth...

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Author Topic: Bobber/Rubber band method to detect bites (Read 10671 times)