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Are you sure it was 470º and not 460º? Mine does that too, as soon as the app shows it go below 32º, it reads 460º. I'm betting the app developer messed up the equation to calculate from Rankine (or maybe even Kelvin) to Fahrenheit. There's a "459.67º" in that equation... Probably an absolute value or order of operations error in their conversion equation (though I would expect the error at 0º and not 32º, making me think the RTD or thermocouple is measuring in Kelvin, but I digress).Thank you for that explanation! Some of the folks here clearly do not understand how the battery ratings are made. Was really grating on my engineer brain. "Ah" (Amp-hours) is a really dumb way to rate batteries in my opinion, it should be "Wh" (Watt-Hours) to be more accurate and take the operating voltage into account.Also, battery "nominal" voltage is a bit stupid to me as well. Our "18v" Ridgid tools are not really 18v. Since an individual Li-Ion cell voltage typically varies from 3.6 volts when empty, to 4.2 volts at full charge, our tools are likely 5-cell (series) tools, and actually only at 18v when DEAD! At full charge, they're more like 21 volts! The 3Ah Octane battery would then be a 5-cell pack with the 5 cells wired in series, and the individual cells rated at 3,000 mAh (3Ah). The Octane 9Ah pack would then be a 15-cell pack, with 3 parallel-wired groups of 5 cells wired in series. Basically think of the 9Ah pack like 3 of the 3Ah packs hooked up to the drill all at once!(Image removed from quote.)I somewhat disagree. Those bars are well behind the cutting edge and have little drag on a clean auger cutting the ice. If the auger was threading through the ice instead of shaving it off, then maybe it would be an issue. But since the ice breaks apart when the edge hits it, those bars add little additional resistance. Maybe a tiny bit, but not so much to be noticeable in my opinion. They do provide additional support to the fighting that holds the blades in place, and keeping the geometry correct is pretty important!
batteries sold on ebay have zero warranty from ridgid. private sellers are not authorized retailers. if the seller told you differently, you should request your money back asap and maybe start a paypal dispute to hurry up the process. i called ridgid about this for someone asking in a pm. have to be careful with knock offs too.
How long does LSA take to receive after registering?
im waiting on the drill powered snowdog.
I have considered powering my kayak with it in the summer. an old trolling motor shaft may be the ticket
Well, my drill seems to have recovered from my trip the other night. A couple observations. If I spin up the drill with the KDrill attached at a certain point the brakes activate (sounds terrible) it doesnt do this with a 1/2 drill bit in it. Also I'm noticing some in/out play in the chuck.
I can see it now. Lost my drill in the lake while trolling. Chuck came loose. LOL
When I got mine, only batteries bought with a tool were eligible for the lifetime warranty, and you had to register them, which took some doing as I recall. I registered my first Ridgid 3/8 drill and batteries, and have had both the Nicad batteries and the drill replaced under warranty. I got them in the '90's, so when the batteries died, they gave me new lithium batteries and a new charger to replace them.
ive noticed that chuck play in mine too.back and fourth play started the second day i used it.now up and down play also.i thought it was my clam plate slop.lol.these drills are not made for augers.i already knew that but im running my octane until its done for.have you checked the fastener that holds the chuck on?it could be coming loose.looks like it wobbles some too.
i just want something that is reliable out on the ice though. That is actually more important to me than being able to replace it over and over. Exactly right Dtro!! The argument for that drill is the LSA, having a reliable product that actually works consistently is way more important. If you have to keep replacing it alot of good that does you. All the drill/auger combo's have their pro's/cons, but as many have said most drills are simply not made for running an auger. I would suspect that over time this will change.
If you don't got the gear box for the clam plate why use a 8 inch laser or 8 inch kdrill?? If your useing the octane and it's shuting off constantly on the kdrill of laser 8 inch that's not rigid fault it's yours for not relizing your over loading the drill . If you want the set up to work with a 8 inch bit get a nils plain and simple.. have not had a cut out with the 8 inch nils and octane combo. .. I have had problem same as you with cUT out on thd smaller dtill the r86116 modEl with 750 inch pounds with the 8 inch nils bit.. when you read the manual the auto shut off is cause from over loads . If you start complaining about this to rigid there going to void your warranty.. cause your over loading the drill.. it's not there fault.. you got to read the booklet that came with the drill.. read and under stand whats going on there.. plain and simple there going to void your warranties.. for over loading the drill with the auger.. it's no one else fault except yours if your drill fails and you tell them your using it attached to a ice auger.. of course there going to void warranty and stick you with bill every time .. why do you think it's called a over load protection in there booklet.. it explain how to reset the drill after this happens and etc.. if you explain you fried your drill after reseting the overload saftey several times.. there going to void your warranty.. so why stick with the auger bit that will void your warranty?? Why not just get a nils and be done with it?? If it's about money thing about it they void your warranty?? it costs you money every time it breaks down!! All caused by the auger bit so wich has less cost fixing drill or buying new bit in long run?? Or trying to get a gear box to run the laser or k drill??in the 8 inch ??
chilly-willy, you need to chill-out a little. None of these guys need to hear that. Using a drill has been around a long time and when the Octane came out with 1300 "# everyone thought they would give it a try. I don't think everyone is having the problem so clearly it is some defective drives/batteries.
Yeah I figured the extra load of the auger was causing the brake to engage even when spinning forward, just took me by surprise the first time. As long as the drill has the LSA, maybe I just run it until she dies. i just want something that is reliable out on the ice though. That is actually more important to me than being able to replace it over and over.
One would think that with a drivetrain that supposedly can handle the 1300in/lbs the gearbox produces, it would be sufficiently strong enough. It is early but evidence suggests it may not. The exteneral forces may be too great and the construction inferior. I'm in the fence about returning mine. I knew going in that a drill isnt designed to be an ice auger. I know all drills can have problems but I'm not hearing this many issues with the Milwaukee users.