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Author Topic: .. Basic Auger Maintenance ..  (Read 47572 times)

Offline LoneWolf

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.. Basic Auger Maintenance ..
« on: Feb 07, 2007, 08:19 PM »
Basic Auger Maintenance

** IceShanty and myself assume no liability for personal injury or  damage to augers **.


After helping a few members with auger problems, this season and last, I received  several more PMís asking for help. I discussed it with IceShanty and Iím going to try and give some advice on basic auger maintenance.

From a safety standpoint itís a good idea to where goggles, gloves and breathing apparatus. You will be working with tools and chemicals.


Fuel

The first thing Iíll start with is fresh fuel. Just before every season I mix a batch of fresh fuel. I mix the two stroke oil, 87 octane fuel, Stabil fuel stabilizer and a few caps of carburetor cleaner.
The two stroke oil I prefer is the Amsoil Saber which is good down to 100:1 (thereís another thread on this). I use the 87 octane fuel because thatís what augers are designed to use unlerss otherwise specified. The higher octane fuels are less combustable and out on the ice I want it firing up and getting warm quick. The fuel stabilizer will help keep the fuel fresh longer. The carb cleaner is preventative maintenance.  I donít want to remove the carb, strip it down, clean it and re-install it.


The tips given in this section I do every other year if the auger is running good.

These procedures you can do with the shaft disconnected.

Replace the spark plug. Even if it looks good there can be hairline cracks that will only get worse. Use the correct spark plug for your auger. Spark plugs come in different threads, different lengths and different heat ranges.
Check the spark plug boot. Make sure it has a good connection to the spark plug.

On most models you can remove the cover to the muffler. Inside you should see a ďscreenĒ. This is the spark arrestor. This can get really carboned up and prevent exhaust flow. Take it out and clean it with carb cleaner. Also clean out the muffler housing with carb cleaner. Re-install the spark arrestor and cover.


Depending on your model you may have a cleanable foam air filter or a disposeable .. most are foam. You can simply clean the foam in a soapy water and gently rinse.
While the filter is drying itís a good time to clean the carb. Angle the power head so the carb is facing at a downward angle and spray the interior while working the throttle with carb cleaner allowing the excess to drip out on a rag. Now clean the exterior of the carb with carb cleaner to remove any dirt or grime.
If the filter is dry you can lightly saturate it with two stroke oil. Blot up the excess with a rag and re-install the air filter.


Now we can lubricate the throttle cable and throttle shaft. Because we operate our augers at below freezing temperatures I highly recommend staying away from lubricants such as WD-40. If itís cold enough the cable and shaft will lock up solid. I recommend a good, synthetic firearms lubricant. The one I use is rated at Ė 65 F .
I use a needle dropper when applying the lubricant and a little goes a long way. I disconnect the throttle cable at the finger pull. I place 3-4 drops in the top end of the cable and re-install. I then place one drop on the top area of the throttle shaft. I then work the throttle cable for maybe 30 seconds or so. Gravity alone is not enough.


Reconnect the shaft to the auger.
Now itís time to start the auger. The auger may be a little tough starting after all the cleaning. After it started let the auger warm up. At idle the auger shaft should not be spinning. If it is you need to back down the idle. There should be an idle  screw located where the end of the throttle cable connects to the shaft. Back it out slightly and check the shaft. Work the throttle slightly and check the shaft again.


If itís running good youíre done Ö if not continue.



If the auger  is spitting, has an erratic idle or is stalling you need to make carb adjustments. On older models you can fully adjust low idle and high idle. On newer models there are lock caps only allowing for a limited adjustment Ö EPA mandated.

Older Models
Disconnect Shaft First

On the side of the carb you will see two spring loaded screws. One will be marked L and the other H. This is for Low Idle and High Idle. Familiarize yourself with the location and get the correct screwdriver.

DO NOT TIGHTEN THESE SCREWS .. you will damage the needle seats.

Start with the idle. With the auger running gently turn the L screw in or out until the auger is idling smooth. Throttle the engine and check idle again. If all is good leave the L screw alone.
Now for the high idle you need to slightly raise the RPM and adjust the H screw until itís smooth. When it feels smooth leave the screw alone and throttle the engine. If it idles good and revs good your done.
Re-install the shaft and recheck with shaft installed.

On newer models itís basically the same as older models but you are limited on how much adjustment you can actually do.


Auger  Storage

When I put my auger away for the season I basically do two things. I remove the shaft from the power head and I drain all the fuel.
I pour most of the fuel from the auger tank into the two stroke can. I leave about 1/8 of a tank in the auger. I add 2-3 caps of carb cleaner to the tank and start it. I let it idle, rev it, idle .. you get the idea. When the auger dies I keep pulling the pull cord and trying to restart it to make sure I cleared all the fuel.
I then pull the spark plug and shoot a little Saber (two stroke oil) into the piston chamber. I then hold a rag over the spark plug hole and slowly pull the pull cord a few times. This lubricates the piston chamber, the top of the piston and the rings. Re-install the plug and put her away. ( I also do this same procedure before starting in fall.)




This ended up longer than I thought. I hope I covered everything  and everyone could understand it.


Those who are brave are free ..

Offline tbirdbassr

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Re: .. Basic Auger Maintenance ..
« Reply #1 on: Feb 08, 2007, 01:16 AM »
Hey doug when ya doing mine lol

Offline LoneWolf

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Re: .. Basic Auger Maintenance ..
« Reply #2 on: Feb 08, 2007, 06:08 AM »

If I'm ever out your way .   ;)

Even if you've never done any of this maintenance before it shouldn't take more than two hours. Once you're familiar with the auger and what you're doing you can cut that time in half.
I hope it was helpfull.




Those who are brave are free ..

Offline Thor

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Re: .. Basic Auger Maintenance ..
« Reply #3 on: Feb 08, 2007, 09:06 AM »
Thank you for the excellent advice! :clap: :clap: :clap:  I'm going to print this out and put it to good use.

Offline jackpine

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Re: .. Basic Auger Maintenance ..
« Reply #4 on: Feb 09, 2007, 01:29 PM »
Thanks LoneWolf----------Great info.

I used your advice just minutes ago to "fire" up the auger for the weekend. Been 2yrs since the "beast" has seen thick ice here in the Chicago area. After a dozen pulls she spit and coughed and them "roared." What a wonderful sound. Mag. 2000 10.25" Strikemaster.

Now I'm(a weekend warrior) ready for those 12" awaiting me on the lakes.

Thanks Fran 8)
Keep Your Auger Sharp

Offline DavidC

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Re: .. Basic Auger Maintenance ..
« Reply #5 on: Feb 12, 2007, 09:28 AM »
LoneWolf,

Excellent post!  Very helpful info....thanks for taking the time.

I have a new Jiffy Model 31 3hp that I need to get going and this topic as well as the synthetic oil/gas thread are a HUGE help!  8)

One question for you.  How much carb cleaner do you add to 1 gallon of fuel?
Any specific brand you recommend?


Regards,
Dave
if you have a plan, you have a chance...

Offline LoneWolf

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Re: .. Basic Auger Maintenance ..
« Reply #6 on: Feb 12, 2007, 01:15 PM »


You can use any of the name brands .. Gumout, STP, etc.. Most of these products come in 12 oz containers and usually indicate they are good for up to 20 gallons. I personally mix 2 oz in a 2 gallon container.  ;)

 

Those who are brave are free ..

Offline marcus

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Re: .. Basic Auger Maintenance ..
« Reply #7 on: Feb 12, 2007, 08:26 PM »
I was able to get my auger running thanks to lonewolf I am as far from a mechanic as you can get but i got it running again   cut 70+ holes yesterday and   about 30 tonight without a hitch   thanks lonewolf
.

Offline 4cator

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Re: .. Basic Auger Maintenance ..
« Reply #8 on: Jan 13, 2008, 11:54 PM »
I give mine a shot of seafoam every year also , it cleans out the crap  real well
All tyranny needs to succeed, is for men of good conscience to remain silent.    Thomas Jefferson.

Offline Doubles Shooter

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Re: .. Basic Auger Maintenance ..
« Reply #9 on: Jan 14, 2008, 09:16 AM »
One of the best things I ever did to my auger was to put an in-line filter in the fuel line. My Jiffy has never let me down since I did that over 20 years ago. It doesn't take much dirt to cause problems.


Offline shootnmiss09

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Re: .. Basic Auger Maintenance ..
« Reply #10 on: Jan 21, 2008, 02:00 PM »
Good information. What would you suggest doing, if when i start my auger and the aiger starts spinning right away, when the throttle isnt even pulled?
$~I'd Rather be FISHING right now~$

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Offline tbirdbassr

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Re: .. Basic Auger Maintenance ..
« Reply #11 on: Jan 21, 2008, 09:29 PM »
Turn down the idle for starters if its idling fine you prolly have a stuck clutch you'll have to prolly go in for that one

Offline cdc

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Re: .. Basic Auger Maintenance ..
« Reply #12 on: Jan 22, 2008, 04:47 PM »
Good information. What would you suggest doing, if when i start my auger and the aiger starts spinning right away, when the throttle isnt even pulled?
Mine auger is doing the same...I'll be going in soon. :-\

Offline bluefin67

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Re: .. Basic Auger Maintenance ..
« Reply #13 on: Jan 28, 2008, 11:21 AM »
Mine auger is doing the same...I'll be going in soon. :-\
[/I have an older laser mag and the on/off switch broke. I replaced the switch but can't get it started got any Ideas?
quote]
Good Luck.....Big Fish

Offline model8

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Re: .. Basic Auger Maintenance ..
« Reply #14 on: Jan 28, 2008, 12:03 PM »
does anyone know which jiffy models spin clockwise i have a bit for one and would like to find a power head the bit was given to me a year or so ago but my model 30 spins counter clockwise thanx in advance for info
jiffy model 30 the only ice auger because the bells and wissles wont  cut ice.






Offline sledder

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Re: .. Basic Auger Maintenance ..
« Reply #15 on: Feb 13, 2008, 11:51 PM »
 Basically,the two biggest problems with any two stroke,is the carb gumming up and cylinder pitting.

 You can drain the fuel out and run the auger till it dies.Or you can run stabil in the fuel.I've started two stroke motors after they've been stored for 5 years and they start up like they were just run.

 I also prefer to pull the spark plug and pour in a tablespoon of two stroke oil and then restart the motor for 5-10 seconds and then shut it off.


   On top of this,running a 24:1 oil ratio keeps things pretty well continually fogged. 

Offline miket.

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Re: .. Basic Auger Maintenance ..
« Reply #16 on: Feb 20, 2008, 08:43 AM »
excellent and well put sledder
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Offline Bugman1964

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Re: .. Basic Auger Maintenance ..
« Reply #17 on: Nov 21, 2008, 10:05 AM »
I typically purchase a jiffy tuneup kits before every season. It comes with a sparkplug and jiffy two cycle oil with fuel stabilizer. I need to replace the on off switch this year. Has anyone done this and are there any tips in replacing it?

Offline Devildog1961

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Re: .. Basic Auger Maintenance ..
« Reply #18 on: Dec 24, 2008, 09:06 AM »
I am novice and have some stupid questions.   

1.)  I have a Jiffy Model 30 and I did not drain the old fuel from the tank at the end of last year.  What should I do in prep for this year?  Drain it or put some kind of additive in it?

2.)  The same goes for my fuel can.  What should I do?


Offline IceFlagger

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Re: .. Basic Auger Maintenance ..
« Reply #19 on: Jan 04, 2009, 08:43 PM »
Drain what can out and re fill with fresh fuel. Fuel stabilizers only work when added to fresh fuel. Check to see if you have a drain on the carb. fuel bowl. if not remove the fuel bowl and clean with carb cleaner. Don't run it with the old fuel, to prevent damage to the needle and seat.

Offline Mainehazmt

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Re: .. Basic Auger Maintenance ..
« Reply #20 on: Jan 08, 2009, 06:14 AM »
My auger maintance consists of plugging it in once a month :)   and at end of season wipe it down and put a coat of wax on it   beginning of the year always start with new blades :)
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Offline IceFlagger

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Re: .. Basic Auger Maintenance ..
« Reply #21 on: Jan 08, 2009, 08:53 AM »
Why do you apply wax to your auger? To prevent ice and snow build up?

Offline Mainehazmt

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Re: .. Basic Auger Maintenance ..
« Reply #22 on: Jan 08, 2009, 09:17 AM »
make it look as good as new
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Offline ice dawg

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Re: .. Basic Auger Maintenance ..
« Reply #23 on: Jan 20, 2009, 04:07 PM »
I am novice and have some stupid questions.   

1.)  I have a Jiffy Model 30 and I did not drain the old fuel from the tank at the end of last year.  What should I do in prep for this year?  Drain it or put some kind of additive in it?

2.)  The same goes for my fuel can.  What should I do?


All of my 2 stroke gas has fuel conditioner in it and I leave it in the tank and carburetor during the summer. When I put it away in the spring, I pull the spark plug, pour some oil in the cylinder, pull it over for a couple of strokes and put the spark plug back in. I have been told to do it this way to keep seals and things in the carburetor from drying out. It has been working for me for twenty years and I have friends that run all the gas out of them and have had to put kits in the carburetor after doing this. I stay away from oxygenated gas. My left over gas gets used in my weed whacker and leaf blower during summer and any that is left over gets used in my pickup before I mix fresh gas for hard water season. I also use Amsoil synthetic oil mixed 80:1 in it.
It seems to go from zero to hero all some have to do is lie.

Offline Uncle Al

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Re: .. Basic Auger Maintenance ..
« Reply #24 on: Sep 23, 2009, 06:56 AM »
There was a discussion on another forum about auger gearbox lubrication. The author said he contacted Jiffy, and was told that very little grease was put in the gearbox when it was made, and it should be ran dry. Just for kicks I looked in my 30 yo jiffy model 30 that hasn't ever failed me, and there is no grease in it. Any thoughts on this. Thanks.

Offline Lobes

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Re: .. Basic Auger Maintenance ..
« Reply #25 on: Dec 10, 2009, 06:10 PM »
I give mine a shot of seafoam every year also , it cleans out the crap  real well

Agreed. Seafoam is about the best therapy any gass engine can get to keep the carb doing what it's supposed to do!

                                              :tipup:
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Mecosta County / Lakeview, Michigan

Offline Wiener

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Re: .. Basic Auger Maintenance ..
« Reply #26 on: Jan 15, 2010, 07:32 PM »
I don't know what maintenance you do to the drill part of your auger, but I had some time the other day so I wire brushed the area(s) where rust was starting, painted it with gloss black paint. ( a couple of coats)

When it was dry, I waxed the auger.

WOW !

What a difference.  Water does not stay on the auger at all.


Just a tip,


Wiener

Offline Jack Magnum

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Re: .. Basic Auger Maintenance ..
« Reply #27 on: Jan 29, 2010, 10:02 PM »
Agreed. Seafoam is about the best therapy any gass engine can get to keep the carb doing what it's supposed to do!

                                              :tipup:
NBG
what's your procedure for seafoam usage ?

Offline pikeking

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Re: .. Basic Auger Maintenance ..
« Reply #28 on: Jan 29, 2010, 10:17 PM »
Lonewolf,,, thank you for the post. It was very informative. I have been having a problem with my Eskimo 3hp. It seems to not want to run with the choke off. It will stall at full choke but runs good at half choke. Do you know why this is? It's only 3 years old and not beat on what so ever. The blades are sharp, and I try to take good care of it. Thanks,,,Bob L.
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Offline Nor Easter

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Re: .. Basic Auger Maintenance ..
« Reply #29 on: Sep 06, 2010, 07:50 AM »
If it only runs on half choke, richen the mixture screw slightly until you can take the choke off. Probably about 1/8th turn to the left.
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