Author Topic: Tricking trailers?!  (Read 2572 times)

Offline perchnut

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Tricking trailers?!
« on: Oct 24, 2020, 07:53 AM »
Just picked up a new enclosed trailer for my sled and Ďstuffí.  What do you put on the floor? Thompsonís? Garage paint?  Lights? Storage? Fish cleaning area in the v nose? Letís see some pics!! I got a 7x16 V nose so Iíve got a little room in there. Hang a hammock? 

Offline JaminWI

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Re: Tricking trailers?!
« Reply #1 on: Oct 24, 2020, 08:37 AM »
I picked up a new enclosed trailer a couple of months ago and after doing some research I settled on this stuff.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-EpoxyShield-120-oz-Gray-High-Gloss-Low-VOC-One-Car-Garage-Floor-Kit-301371/206495768

I painted all walls and floor. I did the walls first and then mixed in a bag of anti-skid compound before doing the floor and ramp door. Figured it would give me some grip after the ATV drags in snow and ice.

Overall happy with it but the result is only as good as the quality of the original OSB or plywood. My OSB walls were "flaking" a bit and once I started to roll this stuff on it pulled some of that up more than I would have preferred.

After that dried for a couple of days I then hung some e-track in the front V to hang a small basket, hooks, etc for tie-downs and wet clothing for the drive home.

Offline Arctic Addict

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Re: Tricking trailers?!
« Reply #2 on: Jan 10, 2021, 06:33 PM »
Any updated pics?  I just took delivery of a new trailer and looking for ideas for the inside.
"Hope" is not a good fishing strategy!

Offline Skywagon

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Re: Tricking trailers?!
« Reply #3 on: Jan 11, 2021, 07:42 AM »
Any updated pics?  I just took delivery of a new trailer and looking for ideas for the inside.

Show us a picture of the inside of your trailer so we know what you have to work with.

Offline jethro

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Re: Tricking trailers?!
« Reply #4 on: Jan 11, 2021, 08:23 AM »
I put nothing on the floor of my trailers other than my snowmachine and flip shanty. It's meant to get beat on. I have however decked out the inside with E-track and shelves. Need to get some pics of the inside, not sure I have taken any. This is the outside anyway!
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Offline Fisherman 1

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Re: Tricking trailers?!
« Reply #5 on: Jan 11, 2021, 08:34 AM »
If you plan on keeping the trailer for the long run, I would go and put a couple sheets of 1/2 inch ply on the floor to take up the damage from sled ski carbides and studs.  You only have to screw down the corners to keep them from sliding around.  If you use an ATV with chains, then a couple of thick rubber mats will suffice.  I added a couple of rows of coat hooks to keep clothes off the floor after changing.  A small folding chair is handy when changing clothes, keeps you from doing the one foot hop on the dry spot on the floor.  Basic white paint on the walls and ceiling makes it brighter inside.  I used cement/porch paint, oil based,  water runs right off.

Offline perchnut

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Re: Tricking trailers?!
« Reply #6 on: Jan 11, 2021, 12:55 PM »
I did Thompsonís premium seal inside and cut stall mats for my studded sled track. Bought ski boots for the skis.  Iím also building some shelves in the nose.  Actually more of a table top with a couple drawers and storage space.

Offline Arctic Addict

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Re: Tricking trailers?!
« Reply #7 on: Jan 12, 2021, 06:34 PM »



Pretty much a blank slate.
"Hope" is not a good fishing strategy!

Offline Arctic Addict

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Re: Tricking trailers?!
« Reply #8 on: Jan 12, 2021, 06:34 PM »


"Hope" is not a good fishing strategy!

Offline Arctic Addict

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Re: Tricking trailers?!
« Reply #9 on: Jan 12, 2021, 06:40 PM »
Anyone using the Caliber edge transition to span the gap between the door and the floor?  Looking for comments if you have used it or another product like it.
"Hope" is not a good fishing strategy!

Offline Snitch#8

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Re: Tricking trailers?!
« Reply #10 on: Jan 12, 2021, 06:46 PM »
I put foam insulation board on the walls in order to keep it warmer inside for sleeping in.  I also put up LED's for lighting and a couple of fans in the top corners to move the air.  On the floor and rear door, I screwed old sled track for traction and to keep the plywood from tearing up from the studs on my sleds track.  Old track does a great job, it is usually free and it is very durable.

Offline Arctic Addict

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Re: Tricking trailers?!
« Reply #11 on: Jan 12, 2021, 07:44 PM »
Thanks Snitch, I am planning on adding insulation.  I am researching loading lights for the rear.  I want them to be dual purpose so they will be switched as well as coming on with the trailers reverse lights.  Often I fish to well after dark so the load lights will help at the end of a long day.  I also would like more light when backing up.  Just trying to figure out the best way to wire it.
"Hope" is not a good fishing strategy!

Offline coldoutside

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Re: Tricking trailers?!
« Reply #12 on: Jan 12, 2021, 11:20 PM »
I painted and caulked the bottom of my trailer floor under the trailer. Keeps water and snow from coming up from underneath. That white foam insulation works good for keeping it warm inside. Put 1/4 inch plywood over it and painted it white inside.

Offline Snitch#8

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Re: Tricking trailers?!
« Reply #13 on: Jan 13, 2021, 03:57 PM »
I didn't put anything over my insulation and I didn't glue it in.  I cut the sheets so that they were just a little wider then the panel from rib to rib on the side of the trailer.  Then, I put the insulation against one rib and then bent it  or bowed it out a little and then put it against the other rib.  Then I pushed it in.  The fit is tight enough that I didn't need glue.  It has been on now for four years and I have never had a panel fall out.  But, I can take them out if I want to do any additional wiring, if need be.  One of the results of not putting plywood over the insulation is that you do get a dent or mar here and there from hitting it on occasion.  But, if it ever gets to the point that I don't like the way it looks, I can go buy another sheet and replace it easy enough.

Offline Skywagon

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Re: Tricking trailers?!
« Reply #14 on: Jan 13, 2021, 06:19 PM »
Anyone using the Caliber edge transition to span the gap between the door and the floor?  Looking for comments if you have used it or another product like it.

I used those in my 2016 Neo (24' X 7.5' NAS) trailer on the rear and front ramps.  I thought they were somewhat of a pain to deal with, having to remember to flip them up when closing the doors, plus their expense.  I just bought a new 2021 Neo (27' X 7.5' NASX) trailer and am now using a piece of 2"pvc pipe to span the transition area when in use, much cheaper and easier to deal with.  I don't bother putting any plastic down inside the trailer since I don't run studs on the track, the floor it not hurt that much and it does not seem to hurt resale, significant cost savings.

Here is a picture of my old trailer that had the Caliber transition units.



Offline Brian A

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Re: Tricking trailers?!
« Reply #15 on: Feb 04, 2021, 09:44 AM »
Anyone using the Caliber edge transition to span the gap between the door and the floor?  Looking for comments if you have used it or another product like it.

I just put in the Edge guide II if thats what you are asking about. They work great, very high quality like all Caliber stuff

Offline Stka

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Re: Tricking trailers?!
« Reply #16 on: Feb 04, 2021, 10:09 AM »
I went a cheap route. Used an old track from a dealer's dumpster, and engineered decking for carbide guides.


Offline Gamalot

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Re: Tricking trailers?!
« Reply #17 on: Mar 07, 2021, 07:47 AM »
I just finished the internal setup on my new 7' X 12' enclosed Ice Gear hauler. To protect the floor where the Snowdog with screw studs goes I bought a thick rubber Horse Stall mat at Tractor Supply, 4' X 6' and cut it in half. I will be painting/sealing the floor when the warm temps get here this spring. My large Otter Pro Resort flip fits on the bottom and the top fits the 2 man Clam Nanook for when I go alone or with one buddy. I could easily fit another 2 man flip up front through the side door along with lots of other gear if we go in a group. I hooked up an exterior to interior 120 outlet for the battery tender and a light while it is parked. Still a work in progress and open to any advice as this replaces an older snowmobile Clamshell that I hated.

















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Offline badger132

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Re: Tricking trailers?!
« Reply #18 on: Jun 30, 2021, 12:17 PM »
I just got an enclosed trailer. A new Forest River Lightning Hybrid trailer. I had to buy it quicker than I liked because I bought a snowmobile on a road trip and had to haul it home. I thought I should share my impressions so far and maybe others have more to add for those still looking.

The good:
It is 13 feet long, and can take 2 huge sleds. It is over 8 feet wide inside, and about 5.5 feet tall, so no problems with high windscreens. All aluminum, and it looks great. There is an unloading light in back, and a light in front to address putting on the ski clamps. It has radial tires on 12 inch aluminum rims, along with a spare in a carrier inside the box. It has full ski guides and track mats. Since the 3 sleds are side by side, either can be removed separately. I had an open trailer, so now no more taking off/putting on slushy frozen covers on the sleds. Also, my tilt trailer was a little tough to load solo, since if the balance was not just right, it would either stay up or down when you needed it to tip. This has nice, long ramp/door with guides and traction mats. The empty trailer is pretty light- just over 1000 lb, so moving it around is no problem for my smaller ATV.

The bad:
It is 13 feet long, and I have older, short sleds. The tie downs only work in the very front, so I have more tongue weight than I need when loaded. I will put some gear in the back of the sleds to compensate. At 5.5 feet tall, you can almost stand, so are wacking your head every time you forget. It is so wide you need mirror extensions to have any idea what is behind you. I worry that the aluminum rims will corrode with the magnesium chlorite we use on the roads in winter, like any other, and the trailer frame will be attacked as well. The thing tows like a brick- My mileage went from 17 down to 9 on the interstate. It is wider and higher than I appreciated when I bought it. The door is less than 8 feet wide, so a 4 foot wide sled has to load with the inside ski over center, then angle back out to the wall, which does not happen naturally with grooved ski guides. It barely fits in my pole shed- 10X10s on 10' centers have just over 9' clear to back it through.

I was trying to buy a Triton TC167, which has a 7 foot wide 16 foot long box. The wheels are outside the box, which allows the floor to be about a foot lower. I estimate the frontal area at about 1/3 less, but it is mostly behind the tow vehicle, so I bet the drag is even better than that. They are rare, and I could never close the deal before I had to make a choice, and so I got this one. I know I will be happy with the space, and having a covered trailer, but if I had more time I think the stagger load would have been even better.

So far I pulled all the guides and tracks, and gave the wood 2 coats of water seal. I put the tracks in for my 2 sleds: 2009 Tundra and 2007 GTX. The Tundra fits with plenty of room, it is 36 inches wide. The GTX is still a work in progress. I put the guides in as per factory, but going up the ramp, the inside ski counts on using the guide from the other sled, which is now not there because it is so much narrower. I moved that guide over to the other side, so it can go up the ramp, but then I still need to go across the grain to get it in position to use the tiedown. I think I can install the guides for that sled at an angle and ride it right into position, so I will try that next.

I plan to move most of my sleds and other big gear into the trailer for summer storage, which is another advantage of this larger, enclosed trailer.
I have been looking at adding a diesel heater to let me bivouac in the trailer for overnights, and melt ice off the sleds on multi- day trips.
I also have seen slicker tie downs than the aluminum bar with threaded rod that I have, and wondered if anyone has a type they would recommend.
Also, who ties down the rear of the sleds in the enclosed trailer? How do you do it?

Offline Gamalot

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Re: Tricking trailers?!
« Reply #19 on: Jun 30, 2021, 12:52 PM »
Trailers in and of themselves turn out to be a work of art as we try to get them set up for our specific needs. They all tend to have pros and cons no matter how much research you do. Bigger is almost always better but that too has its drawbacks in fuel consumption and travel ease. Mine is 7 feet wide but the wheels are outside of the enclosure so it has a foot print wider and I needed to buy extension strap on mirrors from Etrailer.com so I could see the sides. I see guys with similar hybrids like yours and they drive one sled in forward and back the second one in backwards which offsets the tongue weight issue and gives you more room for the ski width. With the 5.5' height you might be able to add a drop down shelf above the sleds so you could store a shanty sled above them.
Secure and mouse proof storage during the off season is a major plus not to mention leaving all that space in your garage or shed where it is normally stored. One addition I would highly recommend if it does not already have it is ventilation. Those are very inexpensive and pretty easy to install and it allows for drying as well as dissipating excessive heat in the summer. Having either plastic or rubber runners under the sled tracks is also a big plus. For tie downs you can buy pop up floor mounted D rings that install flat on the floor but pop up and work really well for our needs. Yes, I always secure the back end of sleds so they don't slide around if you hit a sharp curve. My last Triton clamshell trailer had a few dimples from stuff inside poking the thin aluminum when things got sliding.

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