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anyone having issues, just swap it out. i highly doubt anyone bench tests tools for qc. it's a hassle free 90 day return/exchange policy at hd.the 6 amp is the same as the 9 amp being it is the octane battery. the 6 amp is 140$. two 9 amps are 200$. both deals have limited 3 year warranty. the lifetime warranty is important to me. i would buy another 9 amp battery and charger and get another free tool to keep the lsa. they never made an older style 6 amp, only 4 amp and smaller.6 amp octanehttps://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-18-Volt-OCTANE-Bluetooth-6-0-Ah-High-Capacity-Battery-AC8400806/304350782two 9 amp'shttps://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-18-Volt-OCTANE-Bluetooth-9-0-Ah-High-Capacity-Battery-2-Pack-AC800/3048294339 amp and charger kithttps://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-18-Volt-OCTANE-9-0-Ah-Lithium-Ion-Battery-and-Charger-Kit-AC801/304740781this says you loose 65% plus power using non octane batteries. kind of like putting regular fuel in a race car. that would make it a 455 inch pound drill with out octane batteries.about the octane tech:The OCTANE Brushless 18-Volt Hammer Drill/Driver (Tool Only) features High Performance Brushless Motors and Advanced Electronics that provide Best-in-Class Power and Intelligence. While providing increased performance with all RIDGID 18-Volt batteries, OCTANE tools provide maximum performance when paired with OCTANE batteries (not included). Paired with an OCTANE battery (not included), this tool gives an Industry-Leading 1,300 in./lbs. of Torque and Over 65% More Power when needed for High Demand Applications. This means, under heavy loads, the tool talks to the battery to determine when to draw maximum power to the motor, allowing the tool to increase performance and finish the task.
So ware does it say it loses 65%power with out useing octane batteries?? I curious ware it says that?? If you know ohms law or any electrical princeaples you relize there no way to do as you said.. if you do know your electrial think about it long enough you will relize it.. so if it's 18 volt 1.5 amp versus 18 volt 9 amp all that will happen is the battery will be used faster on the 1.5 amp versus the 9 amp.. please let me know ware it say the drill loses 65 percent power with non octane batteries??
cut at least 50 8 inch holes the last 2 days with a new lazer and auxiliary handle with 3 bars left on the battery that's been left out in my vehicle for days. i am super glad i returned the wobbly clam plate! this set up drills so fast it throws water up to my knees and makes you want to kill it before it gets into the water. it reminds me of the icegator big time!there is absolutely zero hang up issues getting thru the ice because it turns the auger way to fast to have any issue like that. i kept checking to make sure it was in speed 1 because of how fast it was cutting ice and throwing it and water.puts my gen5x 780 inch pound ridgid to shame. if they made a 10 inch auger that would fit it, it would cut fast too.
Has anyone with the Octane tried it with a 10" lazer bit? Just bought a wheelhouse and like the larger hole for that application, but wondering if I have to dust off the old SM Electra. Would be nice just packing the Ridgid for cranking the wheels and drilling the holes, but understand there is a limit to what these things can/should do.
Used my ridgid octane / fin bore set up for first time since early ice yesterday just to see what it would do now that we are up to 2' of ice in Maine. Only drilled a few holes to jig out of. Trigger seemed very finicky, one hole bailed right through no problem, another one would quit and then when you let off trigger and start again would go. Almost seems like there is a difference to when you have auger pressed against ice vs. hovering slightly above. Weird.
we know the motor is rated 18 vdc, but we do not know what their rated amps are for it.
Didnt know Lazer made a 10". Is it a hand auger, or their gas powerhead auger. Last I knew Nils only had a 10' hand auger.
Should cut down the weight a bit, prob get 20 more holes per battery now...
.....and I am wondering if the guys with a Nils think it is so much better to get a hole punched & save a whole .5 seconds?
If someone could show me the Nils drilling 3 holes overlapping in a triangle pattern without wrecking the blade or walking into the adjacent hole I'll buy one tomorrow, until then I'll deal with slower drilling and more power consumption. I beat the living tar out of the so called cheap plastic flighting and it's taking it like a champ.
I've wanted to try drilling overlapping holes with my Nils PP head, but I'm afraid of screwing it up and then I'd have to use my crappy backup auger until I got the Nils head back from Frank. Still might give it a shot.DN
DN, just out of curiousity, what's your crappy backup auger?I accidentally drilled overlapping holes last weekend with my Nils non-power point and lived to tell the tale. I was trying to drill a hole for my transducer, but accidentally got too close to my first hole and they overlapped. Didn't seem to damage my cutting head.
You sir will have a clip shortly. Probably Sunday. I won't ask why anyone would want to constantly make man killers in the ice...Also lets not get emotional....plastic is cheap...its not so called cheap...it is cheap....but its light. Remember, I've used and like both so unlike some, I am not trying to win the vote of personal opinions on kdrill vs nils. Right now I don't use either!
Here’s the biggest problem, people make hipshot comments without thinking about who, what, why, where, or how. Very few people fish the way I do (on a river for 100+lb fish). I understand that, and take it with a grain of salt. River ice is dirty ice. Not only silt, but sticks, gravel etc. No matter what anyone tells me, I know first hand that “man killer” holes are needed for a fish you might encounter that is 6ft long and 3ft around. Especially when you have 20+” of ice. Cleary some augers cut faster than others, and clearly your mileage may vary as to which auger is best for you. The KDrill is a great auger with a few shortcomings. For me personally it’s the best choice, especially since nobody yet has offered me a better alternative. Are there people that just randomly go out and buy a KDrill because of marketing and hype? Of course. Are there others that have made an educated choice? AbsolutelyOh and by the way. Plastic is not “cheap”. That's a broad brush. In fact some poly composites are more durable than metals or alloys in many applications. You should see me reverse drill those “man killer” holes to get rid of the slush. Every time, I think, holy balls how are the flights not breaking?