MyFishFinder.com Just like iceshanty but warmer
never needed a bigger handle for a drill on ice and i see no need to buy into one. i t would use more space in a sled too. i read some people need a little "help" holding on and so they buy the handle/plate. so unless you have a problem with strength in your grip, then you shouldn't need to waste more cash on making holes.i use the ice master adaptor to take some weight off the drill bearing (doesn't really matter with ridgid brand, if it gets ruined or not becuase they will recondition it for free anyway) and save the auger from going thru the ice (that would be like dropping drill batteries down the hole cost wise). that is the lightest and smallest foot print you'll get. my 24 volt ridgid has a band/stap aux. handle that swings around to where you want it to stop and never broke in the many years i have used it on and off the ice. i'm on my second set of batteries for free tho.take the money you would have spent on that plate and buy a better drill. the drill should be just under 300$, not under 200$.i use the eskimo anchor driver on my drill and use just one drill for the auger and driver. same as changing out a drill bit.
I'm thinking of replacing the old Jiffy 30 with an electric setup. Was almost completely sold on the Ion but need to consider a cordless drill setup. They are close to the same money if you use a Clam plate and get a quality auger like a Nils, but maybe I could skip the Clam handles? So a few questions...1)How many of you use a cordless drill setup without Clam plate/handles and are happy with it? 2)Can the drill easily come off the auger? Does the chuck remain so I can use it for other things during the day? 3)I carry a drill with me to set the anchors for my shanty and don't want to change that. Works great for me. I use a Clam ice anchor install tool on a cordless drill. I do not want to have to carry two drills. A Milwaukee Fuel 18 with battery and charger is roughly $170, a Nils Arctic Trekker is $229 and the Clam plate is $60. That's $459. I can find an Ion for close to that. A spare Ion battery is going to run $150 where a spare battery for the Milwaukee is probably less than $100. I want a Nils because with electric I will want to carry a manual handle, but maybe there are cheaper options? Everyone says a cordless drill setup is cheaper but I'm not seeing it that way.
I'm thinking of replacing the old Jiffy 30 with an electric setup. Was almost completely sold on the Ion but need to consider a cordless drill setup. They are close to the same money if you use a Clam plate and get a quality auger like a Nils, but maybe I could skip the Clam handles? So a few questions...How many of you use a cordless drill setup without Clam plate/handles and are happy with it? Can the drill easily come off the auger? Does the chuck remain so I can use it for other things during the day?I carry a drill with me to set the anchors for my shanty and don't want to change that. Works great for me. I use a Clam ice anchor install tool on a cordless drill. I do not want to have to carry two drills. A Milwaukee Fuel 18 with battery and charger is roughly $170, a Nils Arctic Trekker is $229 and the Clam plate is $60. That's $459. I can find an Ion for close to that. A spare Ion battery is going to run $150 where a spare battery for the Milwaukee is probably less than $100. I want a Nils because with electric I will want to carry a manual handle, but maybe there are cheaper options? Everyone says a cordless drill setup is cheaper but I'm not seeing it that way.
by the way the artic treker you don't need to buy any adaptors for it to convert it to a cord less drill auger it come with it... reason is it smooth enough alone and perfect alone not to need the clam plate less effort used to drill the holes unlike that of strike master augers.. so just buying the 229.9 artic treker no clam plate and a cord less drill and batteries saves you 69.99 alone for not buying the clam plate... the 229.99 for the artic treker is same price as the kovac adaptor and the hand auger nils.. which me my self would go with the artic treker and a drill and some batteries... instead of buying the clam plate I would get a spare auger blade for the artic treker just incase you hit sand or what ever on or in the ice...that what I would do that way you can detach the auger from the drill and add a stake tool that all you have to do... if they had the arctic treker out 3-4 years ago I would have gotten that... instead of the nils hand auger the blue with red tip...
Why not get the orange and black nils made for the drill setups. The Nils USA Convertible hand Auger. Sure it is a less aggressive bite the the original nils, but the ION he is looking at is basically just a standard shaver blade.
That is a smoking hot deal for anyone who is building a drill auger. The 5ah battery is much more water resistant pack and should be very capable on a drill auger. Do you by chance know if its the new Milwaukee Fuel Gen2 with 1200 ft/lbs of torque
link no longer works guess the deal is over dagg nabbit i'll stick with my fuel hammer drill and 8" k drill and clam plate not cheap but it is light fast and slick as snot i can't see me changing anything i tried a few diff setups lazer , mora with and without the plate now for one of them 9ah batteries i don't see me ever going gas again unless there's 4' of ice
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200514663_200514663 only 4 ah battery $ 279 but use code 243938at check out .
Overall, I felt the best setup was the 7in shaver. It was the most compact & least amount of weight I didn't really notice the hole size difference from an 8in. Plus, it should get more hole per battery vs the 8in. Also, it cost the least. I find myself actually drilling a crap load more holes with it, because it is so light. When I use to drill about 3-4 holes with the jiffy, I'll drill 6 or 7 with the clam plate. The bad part is re drilling holes is not the best with any of those......I'm wanting a k-drill 8in to try for re drilling holes........if it works like I think I might go buy a wheel house.
Yeah, my first year with a hardside as well. I'm glad I started this thread, looks like you have done most of the legwork for me! The shaver setup looks great. I am interested in the K Drill and how it reopens holes. How does the Ion do with reopening holes? I would hope well as they are popular wheelhouse drills.