Author Topic: Sharpen your auger blades at home!!  (Read 23560 times)

shellfish

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Re: Sharpen your auger blades at home!!
« Reply #60 on: Feb 08, 2016, 08:02 PM »
anybody ever try the sharpener that was sold for under 8 bucks for the lazer blades? looks like a V knife sharpener,, wonder if a typical v kinfe sharpener that comes with a cheap fillet knife will work? (for tune ups not banged out blades) I'm just wondering if such little tune ups are all is needed if the blades start skipping? Either way, looks like i'll be finding out this weekend.. let you know how the stone did and going to try the berkley V fillet knife that came packaged with the new 7 inch. I think if i am very light pressure and careful to concentrate on the factory edge (the only edge to touch with any sharpener) i think most who screw up mistaken the big edge and don't see the fine edge that needs the fine touch up.

Offline A7X

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Re: Sharpen your auger blades at home!!
« Reply #61 on: Feb 09, 2016, 04:19 PM »
anybody ever try the sharpener that was sold for under 8 bucks for the lazer blades? looks like a V knife sharpener,, wonder if a typical v kinfe sharpener that comes with a cheap fillet knife will work? (for tune ups not banged out blades) I'm just wondering if such little tune ups are all is needed if the blades start skipping? Either way, looks like i'll be finding out this weekend.. let you know how the stone did and going to try the berkley V fillet knife that came packaged with the new 7 inch. I think if i am very light pressure and careful to concentrate on the factory edge (the only edge to touch with any sharpener) i think most who screw up mistaken the big edge and don't see the fine edge that needs the fine touch up.

I wouldn't touch a blade with one of those v sharpeners. .. If you roll the angle up that faces the ice even the slightest bit (3+ degrees) it won't cut, AT ALL...

I need to add another post (hence the reserved posts at the beginning of the thread) that explains what we are doing to the blades on a more microscopic level. .. the article that's in the link in my first post is gone which explained why we don't mess with the bottom angle... unless of course you know what you're doing, I can regrind a bottom edge in fact that's what we do on the chipper blades. .. but the slightest change in that angle on the bottom and you'll be laying all your weight trying to cut... Even if you put a primary micro edge on the bottom the blades won't cut but you could shave your face with them... It changes the angle of attack and won't bite which I explain in my first post...

shellfish

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Re: Sharpen your auger blades at home!!
« Reply #62 on: Feb 09, 2016, 05:29 PM »
I thank you for warning me, i lost the v lazer sharpener anyway.. still using my original strike master lazer (made in sweden) repacements going good after few hundred holes third season..but know i want them sharpened after this season.. i also have the original blades to try after trying the stone as i read here but not sure yet how that went until i try them..maybe this weekend..otherwise both sets get shipped out for sharpening eos.

Offline A7X

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Re: Sharpen your auger blades at home!!
« Reply #63 on: Feb 10, 2016, 08:32 PM »
I thank you for warning me, i lost the v lazer sharpener anyway.. still using my original strike master lazer (made in sweden) repacements going good after few hundred holes third season..but know i want them sharpened after this season.. i also have the original blades to try after trying the stone as i read here but not sure yet how that went until i try them..maybe this weekend..otherwise both sets get shipped out for sharpening eos.

Thread updated in a reserved post to explain why I wouldn't use a V sharpener. .. you could flatten the angle on the bottom of the blades. ..

shellfish

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Re: Sharpen your auger blades at home!!
« Reply #64 on: Feb 11, 2016, 02:41 PM »
Thread updated in a reserved post to explain why I wouldn't use a V sharpener. .. you could flatten the angle on the bottom of the blades. ..
agree, and experienced that using the strikemaster tool sharpener,, but it was/is designed specifically for the lazer blades.. the instructions are not specific in showing how to use the tool.. i tried the first time and it did not work,, i than flipped it over and black markered the side i believe worked.. but now can't find the thing..it is lost for now, probably showup in the garage somewhere,, got to look for it. Anyway,, the strikemaster tool sharpener is not a V round stone ..if i remember, the bits look like mini flat but stubby scissored shaped.. the thing the instructions lack mentioning is which side faces up and other details as to which side gets pressured and is it pulled or pushed? Strikemaster should definitely have a video instructional for using the tool.. than i'd buy it for tuning a hand auger lazer it was designed for. See fishusa offers sharpening..probably send two sets after the season.

Offline A7X

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Re: Sharpen your auger blades at home!!
« Reply #65 on: Feb 11, 2016, 02:57 PM »
agree, and experienced that using the strikemaster tool sharpener,, but it was/is designed specifically for the lazer blades.. the instructions are not specific in showing how to use the tool.. i tried the first time and it did not work,, i than flipped it over and black markered the side i believe worked.. but now can't find the thing..it is lost for now, probably showup in the garage somewhere,, got to look for it. Anyway,, the strikemaster tool sharpener is not a V round stone ..if i remember, the bits look like mini flat but stubby scissored shaped.. the thing the instructions lack mentioning is which side faces up and other details as to which side gets pressured and is it pulled or pushed? Strikemaster should definitely have a video instructional for using the tool.. than i'd buy it for tuning a hand auger lazer it was designed for. See fishusa offers sharpening..probably send two sets after the season.

I agree they should make a video. .. If they had it tune up just the top side I'd be all for using it on the ice in the case of hitting some sand or shallows etc to keep going... Other than that, if I'm home I'll use stones or sharpening equipment. ..

shellfish

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Re: Sharpen your auger blades at home!!
« Reply #66 on: Feb 15, 2016, 03:34 PM »
Just wanted to think you for the stone tutorial ... It worked today awesomly!

Offline A7X

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Re: Sharpen your auger blades at home!!
« Reply #67 on: Feb 15, 2016, 03:56 PM »
Just wanted to think you for the stone tutorial ... It worked today awesomly!

No problem, glad it helped!!  :tipup:

Offline ice4me

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Re: Sharpen your auger blades at home!!
« Reply #68 on: Feb 15, 2016, 08:29 PM »
what a great tutorial....thanks so much...pics are nice and clear. Looking forward to trying this method this week....
Thanks! :)

Offline A7X

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Re: Sharpen your auger blades at home!!
« Reply #69 on: Feb 16, 2016, 04:49 PM »
what a great tutorial....thanks so much...pics are nice and clear. Looking forward to trying this method this week....
Thanks! :)

No problem! Post back how they cut after...

Offline ice4me

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Re: Sharpen your auger blades at home!!
« Reply #70 on: Feb 19, 2016, 07:48 PM »
uh oh....I practiced on an old set....then I tried it today and the blades just walked across the ice.... damn!
So tonight I took them off again...and went through the whole process again....focusing more the the leading edge....
will try again tomorrow to cut ice!!

Offline A7X

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Re: Sharpen your auger blades at home!!
« Reply #71 on: Feb 19, 2016, 10:43 PM »
uh oh....I practiced on an old set....then I tried it today and the blades just walked across the ice.... damn!
So tonight I took them off again...and went through the whole process again....focusing more the the leading edge....
will try again tomorrow to cut ice!!

Make sure you removed enough material (burr) and didn't roll the edge over (maintain angle) these things should feel so sharp after that you almost can't bear to check em without fear of getting bit... if they feel like that but don't cut ice, then you may not have removed enough material and you may have left some of the flattened edge on the bottom...

Let me know how you do... Be sure your going up to at LEAST 1200 grit... If they're not biting in, again, you may have not removed enough material and/or you may not have kept a steady hand and possibly rolled up while grinding... Use something as a guide if necessary to start out/practice

If the blades were severely rusted they may be not worth messing with as they will be weakened. ..


These are Swedish blades that came off a buddys auger... These blades are junk now and needed to be replaced...

shellfish

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Re: Sharpen your auger blades at home!!
« Reply #72 on: Feb 20, 2016, 08:03 AM »
I was very successful using the stone method,, just be extra light pressure and no need to go crazy,, especially if the blades only need a tuneup.. i first visually inspect the primary edge,, if i concentrate on keeping that edge by lightly shaving the stone pulling and in my case the lazer curve , i tend to roll shave as if to scrape off a sticker on the stone.. just a light stone nothing too abrasive,, the cheap stone I used i bought for a dollar and it has two sides one side much smoother and with the fine stone I had suprising results for blade tune up.... you can see feel and hear after a few slow consistent pull swipes over the face of the stone ..at first you catch some material/resistance but as you keep that edge and lightly slowly pull half moon roll scrapes passing the complete edge over the stone..should not go crazy,, fine tune up took me maybe 15 light passes on a dollar store flat stone. anyway should make a video.. it is easy and not that difficult

shellfish

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Re: Sharpen your auger blades at home!!
« Reply #73 on: Feb 20, 2016, 06:35 PM »
Man! whoo that was too close , ..just got a new hand auger on amazon called thunder bay..a 6 in. resembles my old rusted laser strikemaster for 40.00 lol i had credit bonus brought it down to 32.00 ;D so now i have two 6 in.hand augers..weidest thing,, my bundy put new blades on his gas shark eskimo and slightly cut his index finger in the process.. i warned him prior but he did anyway no deep cut..me ..i just opened the box and the cap blade guard was stuck but i as i poped it off the f;in blade got me same thing..hehe.. like a freakin paper cut on my guitar index finger left hand,, fortunitely not on the tip..should be able to practice tonight it like a paper cut..put some peroxide and bandade .. but man what a close call.. going to make sure that ain't happening again using a dremel grind to make certain that plastic blade guard removes freely! (probably made in CHINA) I swear they want to kill us! lol ;D

Offline conservationist

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Re: Sharpen your auger blades at home!!
« Reply #74 on: Dec 20, 2016, 10:04 AM »
I think I can speak for a lot of us when I say 'thanks, a7.. You saved us a lot of time, headaches, and even a few buck$ with your write-ups.

Offline MNice

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Re: Sharpen your auger blades at home!!
« Reply #75 on: Jan 04, 2017, 12:21 PM »
A7X, did you ever do a pictorial on the lazer blades?  I would guess the procedure is the same, but with the curved edges I was hoping to find some new tricks.

Thank you

Offline A7X

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Re: Sharpen your auger blades at home!!
« Reply #76 on: Jan 08, 2017, 06:51 PM »
A7X, did you ever do a pictorial on the lazer blades?  I would guess the procedure is the same, but with the curved edges I was hoping to find some new tricks.

Thank you

The closest I've got is post #14 in this thread...
I think your best bet being the most cost effective and very effective in sharpening these blades would be to spray adhesive some sandpaper to a piece of pvc pipe in various grits and sharpen that way sweeping the whole edge over the paper as you grind...

Offline Old Guide

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Re: Sharpen your auger blades at home!!
« Reply #77 on: Jan 30, 2017, 05:43 PM »
Would Very much so like to see the Process you describe in Video format .. I understand it would be a considerable undertaking .. but just the pictures are not working for me !!

Offline Fishdancer

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Re: Sharpen your auger blades at home!!
« Reply #78 on: Feb 20, 2017, 08:36 PM »
Thank you, A7X, for the sharpening description and explanation that gave me the confidence to try again. I was successfully able to sharpen the Laser Mag blades using your process and 400/1000 grit silicon carbide (wet/dry) sandpaper glued to a 3"pvc pipe. It now cuts like new without requiring any down pressure, unlike before I sharpened the blades. It did not take long to do and is well worth the effort to not require purchasing new blades. I have a set of new blades in reserve, but only expect to use them in an emergency if not convenient to resharpen my primary blades at the time.

Paul

Offline Agronomist_at_IA

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Re: Sharpen your auger blades at home!!
« Reply #79 on: Aug 05, 2017, 11:39 AM »
Stupid photo bucket ruins a good informative post

Offline 3300

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Re: Sharpen your auger blades at home!!
« Reply #80 on: Sep 17, 2017, 10:10 AM »
don't forget to get your photobucket work around plug-in so you can see the images again. there may be times when the plug-in won't work until the developer works on it again. it will be a cat and mouse thing for some time.

https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/get-blocked-images/bmnbjlbmomljieglmaodlnmoaobmbjoo

https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/photobucket-embedded-fix/?hotlinkfix=1515364583200


Offline 3300

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Re: Sharpen your auger blades at home!!
« Reply #81 on: Sep 17, 2017, 11:08 AM »
here's a redo of the OP. it may have images out of sequence, but should be close. if you spot an error let me know and i can fix it. thanks.

i wanted to add that you can save this page and all of the images will be saved with it because i'm using postimage.org. the OP used photobucket and they never allowed you to do that.

A7X is the author.
Thanks A7X for your time teaching us how it's done.

** Iceshanty and myself assume no liability for personal injury or damage **

This is an article on How To sharpen your auger shaver blades at home the right way with nothing but hand tools… If I get my hand on another chipper blade I will write that up as well… Feel free to ask any questions about other types or shapes of shaver blades but the concept will remain the same...
 
First off, Please keep this article clean… As in please don’t post how YOU would do this and “muddy up” my methods… I am spending a lot of time here writing and uploading pictures showing and sharing my techniques as a professional… Feel free to click “New Topic” and write your techniques up… I have full access to a machine shop but I am showing you how to do this just as good without any expensive equipment…
 
I am going to be using terminology that everyone can understand, please don’t be the smart guy and correct me, I am doing it on purpose for ease of understanding… I will add as I feel necessary if I accidently leave important info out...
 
Lastly, This is a technique that is learned through practice, don’t expect to get it right the first time, although if you follow closely you just might!… If you take your time to get it right you will feel rewarded for your efforts and you will be very happy with the outcome… I suggest using an old set of blades for practice… Also read directions thoroughly before attempting…

***And as with any blade or tool, PLEASE use caution, You don't want to end up in the hospital getting stitches

Also Much care is needed in maintaining the edge when this process is complete... Always apply the blade guard when you are not cutting ice... And Always thoroughly dry and oil blades when stored over night or for long periods of time... This will help maintain your edge and is well worth the extra effort to cut holes efficiently every outing...
 
Let’s get started…
 
First I would like to squash a couple of the myths about sharpening auger blades…
Myth#1: When sharpening auger blades, you have to get the angle just like the factory or it will not cut well…
Truth: This is far from the truth, I can hear the hooting and hollering now because this is all I hear… But the truth is you can change the angles all you want (within reason of a good cutting edge) and have an auger that cuts amazing for a long, long time… If there was one particular type of edge (angle) that cuts great, all auger blades would look identical… I know where this myth stems from… Read on…
 
Myth#2: When sharpening auger blades if you don’t keep the correct angles the auger will walk…
Truth: The reason the auger will walk is because one blade is biting more than the other… This can be due to a bent blade mount, one blade is badly dinged or dull, or one was ground more than the other in the sharpening process leaving it floating just above the other  while the other cuts in and thus, the auger spins off to one side…
 
Now that we’ve squashed that stuff, Let’s get your auger cutting ice as if it were warm butter…
 
Here we have a terribly unkempt set of 6” strikemaster blades… We have chips, dings, rust, they’re about as sharp as a turd… Yeah they get through 8” of ice in just over  a minute of fighting and applying moderate down pressure only for it to skip and bite and let go again, that’s unacceptable… I was out with these on Thursday… The auger belongs to a friend, it’s 10 years old NEVER sharpened!


Here is a closer picture notice the large bevel (secondary edge) and then notice the tiny little bevel on the edge? This is the important part, it’s the primary edge but here we are going to remove it completely…

 
So let’s talk about how these things cut…
They cut by spinning on the ice and biting in… While biting into the ice, it’s shaved or broken away and pushed up over the blade then it rides up the auger and out of the hole… When the auger blades get dull this doesn’t happen… Why? Because the blades edge has been worn, bent, dinged, rusted, etc…
 
Here we have the bottom side of the blade (the part that faces the ice whilst cutting)…

We DO NOT touch this part of the blade by any means in the sharpening process… I don’t care if there’s rust, a burr or you think there might be a genie inside and you will get three wishes by rubbing it on your honing stone, we don’t touch this! Period! Why? Think of it as a wood chisel, we’re shaving wood with our chisel and you start to angle the handle down toward the lumber, what happens? The chisel rides up and out of the lumber and won't cut in at that angle… This is changing the “angle of attack” on the material… Removing any material on this bottom side of the blade would do the same thing… So unless you plan on shimming your blades to correct the “angle of attack” DO NOT remove any material from this side of the blade! Period! Some myths can stem from here as well, sharpening the bottom of the blades at the wrong angle will not allow them to cut. ..
 
Enough jibber jabber, let’s get to work here…
 
What you’ll need
3 stones, a coarse, a medium,  a fine honing stone and a rag (use your discretion when you need to wipe the blades with a rag)… And a set of Blades of course…

I have a few sets, oil, some I use dry and I also have water stones... But I never oil a course stone, I just don't like it... Had some spill once, stone went in the trash... But the medium and fine you can oil or use water depending on the type of stones you have, I won't be using anything in this article (dry stones), and the outcome will still be amazing...
 
***If you feel your blades only need a quick touch up, proceed to Step 4***

STEP 1
We’re going to start by grinding all the crap, burrs, dings and chips out of the secondary bevel… This wide bevel is only for clearance to hone a cutting edge… It’s only purpose is to make it easy for the cutting edge to be honed on and for material to be cut to pass over… That being said, it can be 20, 25, 30, 21, 27 degrees… So pay no attention to the myths you’ve heard but we’ll go with the factory’s cut so we have to remove as little material as possible and use it to keep our angle consant… WHAT WE DO TO ONE BLADE WE MUST DO TO THE OTHER, see myth #2
 
Lay the blade flat on your coarse stone so that the side that faces you when you cut is FACE DOWN and the cutting edge is facing you… Then roll it upward until you feel it hit the flat of the bevel…
Like this…


 
We are going to drag the blade along the coarse stone with the blade toward you… This motion should look like you are trying to shave a sticker off of the stone… The motion should flow like this… USE TWO HANDS, I didn’t have three at the time soooo…
 
1.


2.


3.

 
Again with two hands all while keeping perfectly flat on the bevel (this bevel is so wide it's pretty easy to stay flat at that angle)… Don’t let the edge bite into the stone… DON’T roll the blade up toward you, you will make more work for yourself… Press lightly and once you develop the muscle memory you can start to move heavier and faster but take your time… We draw the stone this way because if you pull AWAY from the edge you will remove or drag microscopic pieces of metal from the edge causing micro serrations and that will hinder the final step... We want all that material there...
 
We are going to run this motion and get any rust off… Be sure through the entire process that you are getting to both corners of the blade, on all steps, getting to the corners without rolling them over, it almost feels like you are picking the blade up to get to them... A good way to check is to flip the blade over and make sure you are removing material there, again, without rolling over the left or right edge... Just enough to get there, don't over do it and roll the edge...
 
Then I run this motion…
1.
Drag the blade straight down the stone on the same bevel again keeping it perfectly flat on the bevel, these grinds are done while holding the blade perpendicular to the stones length… (90 degrees)


2.
Then do the middle


3.
Then the other end, working back and forth as such

 
You will see that you can rock the blade while staying flat on that bevel as you’re running this motion… Do so when you feel comfortable all while keeping the blade perpendicular to the stone… Do this until you have removed all chips dings and primary edge… You will feel a small burr form on the BOTTOM of the blade (side that faces the ice while cutting) This is good, you need to grind until a burr forms along the entire edge, otherwise you are wasting your time, the burr indicates that you have removed enough material to move on...
 
You will end up with something like this, yes this is the same blade! We can do by hand what a machine can do… No more chips, dings, rust or primary edge…


 This is where most people stop and think they have a great edge and most likely where the myths stem from... They get it to this point and it doesn't work so they blame it on the angles being wrong, well it is not a great edge, it is weak and will probably get through about 2” of ice before going dull... This edge shaves hair off my arm easily (I tested it before moving on) Most people think this means sharp well yeah, its sharp but it's not going to last long at all... The very edge is too thin and will roll up upon applying any amount of pressure...

I said what we do to one we have to do to the other... Here's a good way to check and now is the time to do it...
I bolted the two blades together, This shows us that they are basically the same, (I forgot to take a pic when I checked after I grinded, this is from when I checked the condition beforehand incase any extra grinding on one was needed) but even here from the factory one drops off a bit, not terribly but we'll fix it...


Step 2
Much like the first step we are going to grind the blade on the stone the same way as the second motion but we are going to use a medium stone... Same angle until it's polished


Step 3
And same exact thing on the honing stone, Again till it's polished...

Well even more people will stop here... They will see a nice mirror polish, shave hair very easily but they will get the same outcome as I spoke of before, junk after one hole...

Step 4
Now we are going to hone a primary edge on the blade... This is the VERY important angle we are going to grind on... It can be 28 degrees (wont last as long) or 45 degrees (will last much longer but may not bite as well) both can be VERY sharp... This is because there will be more material “backing up” the edge with a thicker more obtuse 45 degree angle than that of a skinny acute 28 degree angle... For ice anything from about 38-40 degrees should be sufficient and last a very long time... But, this angle could be 35 degrees and still last quite some time, 32, 42, 37 degrees, all these angles will cut great, just to back up the truth behind the myth... Ideally though, we are looking for 38-40 degrees for an auger to retain a great edge and not sacrifice longevity... Whatever angle is chosen, MUST remain constant through the honing process or the blade will not cut to its full potential...

We are going to take the blade and place it on the stone again on the secondary bevel, but this time we are going to roll it up to about 38-40 degrees
From this

To somewhere around here


From here we are going to hone the primary edge using the first motion (the sweeping draw shave motion from one side to the other, “shaving the sticker off”, you will feel some resistance here on the first pass or two, we are pushing ever so slightly to hone this edge on... Some use oil on the stone here, sometimes I do sometimes I don't, light hair clipper oil will work great, or any really light oil... It is supposed to aid in floating away metal particles so the blade doesn't get microscopically dinged or scratched by them... There's a lot of controversy over this, it's about 50/50... Sometimes when it just doesn't seem to get REAL sharp I'll toss some oil down on a stone I have already oiled...

It is VERY important here to MAINTAIN the angle, if you roll up you will be working against what you are trying to achieve... Make yourself some type of jig if needed, I don't use one but I have been doing this for a really long time...
When You're done you should have something like this


See that? A nice smoooooth primary edge on an almost mirror like secondary edge... The primary edge only needs to be about as wide as a thick piece of thread at maximum, this will make it easier to remove it on the next sharpening making for much less material to be removed... From here there will still be a slight burr on the bottom, DO NOT TOUCH IT!!! you will have worked way too hard to get this far and go grinding that off... you will feel compelled to use the honing stone thinking eh wont be that bad... Might as well go drill a hole in your driveway... Leave it alone, most people would be like a dog with a scab... Just leave it, it is a thin ribbon of metal that will fall off after the first few holes... If I feel compelled I will add how to strop off the burr, but like I said it will fall off and not affect the auger one bit... We're cutting ice that shaves, chips and breaks, not plastic or wood... If you feel compelled to remove it, Strop the edge with a leather belt, like the old timers with their straight razors bending the burr back and forth and it will fall off...

The outcome? Went from 1 minute + while pushing down on the auger through 8” of ice biting and letting go, to 16 seconds through just over a 14” of ice... This is with absolutely ZERO down pressure other than the weight of the auger, and ZERO centering issues (no walking)... I drilled three holes and just let my “top” arm barely rest... An extreme difference and JUST AS GOOD AS NEW BLADES that will last a damn long time...

When reinstalling blades, I ALWAYS like to put a good marine grade grease on all mating surfaces... water will hide in here and corrode the blades and bolts. ..

This took me about an hour (While taking pictures obviously) to complete, I have more pictures but didn't feel the need to post everything, it was very tough grabbing the right light and I hope you can see everything ok... This has taken me FOREVER to type and I had upload issues... I will add more necessary information over the next few days, for now here are the basics...

So there we go, a couple myths squashed, Nice freakin sharp blades and...
Oh wait, one other myth...
Myth: You can't sharpen auger blades at home they will just never cut like new ones
Truth: YOU CAN!!! and they will cut just like new!!!  ;D  :tipup:


Offline 3300

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Re: Sharpen your auger blades at home!!
« Reply #82 on: Sep 17, 2017, 11:27 AM »
CONTINUED:

CHIPPER BLADES

Chipper blade on power augers...
Same concept applies.... secondary edge primary edge... any angle within reason of a good cutting edge... but maintain angles throughout the process...

***Read thoroughly before attempting, all steps are NOT needed to cut ice efficiently***

I won't go into great detail here because the concept of grinding a good edge is above (read the above post thoroughly for tips)... Using the post above and this one you should be able to do this....


Here I like to polish the "top" of these blades... keeping the blade perfectly flat we can slide it lengthwise on the stone till a smooth polish is achieved. .. usually just the light stone will do but if a coarse stone or paper is needed, work up to a 1200-2000 grit... After you polish to a fine grit, don't go back down in grit... Some would say this is a terrible idea but I do this cuz I know what I'm doing... Stay away from this step if you don't know what you're doing  ;) it is not needed I'm just a little obsessive...


***This is the only step needed on these blades... the angle is important here working to progressively lighter grits...***. ..
Here is an example of using something as a guide to maintain angle... 2 neodymium magnets (one each corner) offer the perfect angle to grind (see how flat the edge sits) you can use whatever here as long as the edge sits flat (paint the entire edge with a sharpie to see if you're grinding the whole surface evenly, if you're not removing the sharpie along the entire plane adjustment is needed). .. otherwise you'll be grinding a while to build your burr if your grinding only part of the edges plane or possibly changing the angle for the worse... I didn't use em but as an example they work. ..  We're looking for about 15 degrees from the blade mount on this particular blade. .. this step move just like above "shaving the sticker off" till you build your burr along the top length of each tooth the burr is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT this means you've taken enough material... never drag back...


^^This photo is for further explanation... I added the profile of a wood chisel and angled the blade up like it would be if it were cutting ice... You see here why angle is important... If you change the angle on the blade it would be like changing the angle of the wood chisel in the material to be cut (moving the chisels handle closer or further from the wood)... Making the angle more acute only makes for a thinner, weaker edge. .. By right we could sharpen the auger blade like a wood chisel by grinding the top and not worry so much about angle like the shaver blades above, but as you can see here by the dotted line we'd be thinning the blades profile with each sharpening and weaken it substantially because the blade doesn't run on that plane like the shaver blades or wood chisel so we need to sharpen from the bottom keeping the correct angle... This is where the sharpie comes into play to make sure you are taking material evenly with the factory grind... don't let it scare you off, a couple degrees isn't gonna kill the performance but stay within reason... practice makes perfect and take your time, mark the blade often if you feel the need to...


Honing the primary edge... pick the blade up to about 38-40 degrees. .. maintain this and hone the primary edge on the TOP! of the blade (NOT the side we just ground)... Again here some would say terrible idea. .. And again I do this because I know what I'm doing. .. Stay away from this if you don't, it's not needed but I do this to almost microscopically fatten up the cutting edge so it's stronger and the edge will last much longer... The pros say don't touch this side of the blade, I say hey, I know what I'm doing...


We want a smooth secondary and primary edge... the primary edge should be about the thickness of a piece of thread... this will make for less work grinding on the next sharpening. ..


After I'm done I like to use a rust preventive black paint on the "top" of the blade from polishing... this will keep rust at bay through the season...

This auger went from not cutting AT ALL unless you literally laid on it to cutting through 4" of ice in 4 seconds flat under its own weight. .. pretty good I'd say. ..

When reinstalling blades, I ALWAYS like to put a good marine grade grease on all mating surfaces... water will hide in here and corrode the blades and bolts. ..

And your done.... using the steps from above and this post you should be able to sharpen these two types of blades with ease...

Offline 3300

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Re: Sharpen your auger blades at home!!
« Reply #83 on: Sep 17, 2017, 11:27 AM »
CONTINUED;

DIAGRAMS


This post is for further explanation on sharpening blades... I made these on my phone so hopefully the details are able to be seen. Zoom in if necessary. .. I can see the details on my phone, if you can't pm me and maybe I can remake them but I'd rather not haha. ..



This photo is a sharp chipper blade... Notice it comes to a fine point... This is ideal, the blade will bite in and shave ice easily. ..



This photo is of a dulled chipper blade. .. Notice how the very edge is worn down to the same plane as the ice... This will still feel very sharp maybe even shave hair but the bottom angle is wrong... the angle of attack which I spoke of in the other posts has changed... this picture can depict a dull or worn blade, or a bad sharpening job. .. This blade will slide on the ice like a ski and not bite in due to the angle being worn and it will just ride and rub on the top of the ice... It will only cut when you apply down pressure with force. ..



This picture is of the dulled chipper blade... The yellow line shows the material to be removed (DO NOT SHARPEN A SHAVER BLADE LIKE THIS READ FIRST POST)... We need to remove enough material to make a new edge that's free of this minute dull or flattened angle on the bottom (notice the yellow line is free of the dulled edge, we NEED to remove all of the flattened or dulled edge)... Once all of this material is removed we will have a seriously sharp new edge...


This picture depicts a dull shaver blade (hand augers and some power augers) as above the yellow line shows the material to be removed to expose a super sharp edge. .. We DO NOT touch the bottom of these blades...

Remember, building a burr along the ENTIRE edge let's you know you've removed enough material (burr will form on the top of a chipper blade when sharpening and the bottom of a shaver blade, you MUST build a burr or you are wasting your time leaving that dulled flat angle BELOW the new edge that will still ski on the ice and not bite in). .. Then you can hone your primary edge...



Like I said I made these pictures on my phone, hopefully they get the point across...

A shaver blade as seen on hand augers and some power augers you will take the material off the top until this dull edge or flattened angle is removed. .. A burr on the bottom will indicate you've removed enough material. .. Then you can hone your primary edge... ***In some instances you can just hone a new primary edge without performing a full regrind... granted you take good care of your blades and your auger is kind've cutting you can remove the microscopic dulled or flattened bottom this way. .. this touch up should only be done once or twice before a full regrind. .. otherwise your primary edge will get too thick and make for a lot of work to remove it and the thicker it gets the taller the edge gets and this will hinder performance biting in... the primary bevel should only be about the thickness of a piece of thread... any more and you'll be grinding a while to remove it on a full regrind...

This post is to show why we do not touch the bottom of shaver blades and keep a good angle on the bottom of a chipper blade. .. If you change the bottom angle, your blades will ski around on the ice and not bite in unless you make the angle more acute (weaker) or the same (ideal)... That's why the sharpening angles don't really matter as much (within reason of a good cutting edge) on shaver blades. ..

On chipper blades we sharpen via the bottom. .. That's why we need to pay attention to angle a bit more. .. If you make the angle more obtuse it will ski around in circles and not bite in. .. A couple degrees won't hinder performance but stay within a reasonable range from the factory...

Offline missoulafish

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Re: Sharpen your auger blades at home!!
« Reply #84 on: Sep 17, 2017, 12:56 PM »
THANK YOU A7 and Drew:0) Great post, not sure why I didn't read it last year! ???

Offline OldSailor

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Re: Sharpen your auger blades at home!!
« Reply #85 on: Sep 17, 2017, 01:50 PM »
And thanks to 3300 for all of his hard work putting it together!!!   :thumbsup: :clap: :flex: :bow:
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Offline filetandrelease

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Re: Sharpen your auger blades at home!!
« Reply #86 on: Sep 17, 2017, 03:08 PM »
Very well done 3300 , many people will benefit from all your time invested
     

Offline chilly-willy

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Re: Sharpen your auger blades at home!!
« Reply #87 on: Sep 21, 2017, 04:21 PM »
First off great job 3300!!  Now i Got a question for you 3300 have you tried any knife sharpening systens on the auger blades like smith or lansky knife sharpeners like at this link?  I tried my smith on a old set of 6 inch mora blades today I got to say they came out really sharp I was just wondering how these systems compare to your get up??  I found one side required a 35* angle the other a 20*angle but have you tried any of these set ups for auger blades like mora or laser?? Any how thanks for any info you can give..


https://lansky.com/index.php/products/dlx-5-stone-system/


Offline 3300

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Re: Sharpen your auger blades at home!!
« Reply #88 on: Sep 21, 2017, 05:12 PM »
sorry cw, it's not my post. i just fixed it so the images are back for all of us to see w/o the photobucket plugin.

i just buy news ones. my buddy owns a store and i get his wholesale prices. i should own enough to play around with sharpening some by now and my store owner buddy gave me his old mora that i could try it on.
i have 3 lazers tho.

Offline Agronomist_at_IA

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Re: Sharpen your auger blades at home!!
« Reply #89 on: Sep 21, 2017, 05:23 PM »
sorry cw, it's not my post. i just fixed it so the images are back for all of us to see w/o the photobucket plugin.

i just buy news ones. my buddy owns a store and i get his wholesale prices. i should own enough to play around with sharpening some by now and my store owner buddy gave me his old mora that i could try it on.
i have 3 lazers tho.


This was a great post. I followed it and then Buffed the blades.......buffing is what gets stuff crazy sharp!

 



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