Author Topic: Nils Master Cold Start  (Read 3724 times)

Offline Shidso

  • IceShanty Rookie
  • **
  • Posts: 9
Nils Master Cold Start
« on: Dec 30, 2013, 10:21 AM »
Recently purchased a Nils Master power auger.  Love it so far cuts fast and smooth.  Have only ran about 2-3 tanks of fuel through it.  Only downfall is amount of pulls it takes to start.  When its warmer out 10 to 30 degrees I can get it in about 10 pulls or less usually.  When its been colder lately -10 to 10 degrees out it takes me a fair amount of pulling to start.  Usually anywhere from 20-40 pulls.  Generally I pump the primer ball about 5 times, and pull with full choke until it fires.  This works pretty well when its warmer out but I struggle when its real cold.  I have read people saying they can get theirs to start in 3-5 pulls always.  Curious if anyone has tips or input to help out?  I also emailed Tanaka to see their opinion.  Other than the starting problem the auger is awesome.  I won't buy any other auger after running the Nils.  It cuts awesome, runs real smooth, and it LIGHT as ever!

Offline Rebelss

  • Iceshanty Militia
  • Team IceShantyholic
  • *
  • Posts: 8,716
  • Inventor of Minnow Magic Muckletonian Society
Re: Nils Master Cold Start
« Reply #1 on: Dec 30, 2013, 10:34 AM »
Could be you are over-priming and flooding it. Shouldn't take 5 primes to put enough gas into the carb throat; unless you have a loose primer bulb hose and you're sucking air. Try 2-3 bumps on the primer bulb and see, nothing to lose at that point. I'd check/replace the plug, too. Have seen lots of new plugs that are bad.

                                    



"You can't please everyone, so you've got to please yourself"...Rick Nelson/SCB '72

Offline 3300

  • Iceshanty Militia
  • Team IceShantyholic
  • *
  • Posts: 7,463
  • Michigan Moderator.Not affiliated with MarCum Tech
Re: Nils Master Cold Start
« Reply #2 on: Dec 30, 2013, 12:06 PM »
not knowing that unit, but knowing small engines, maybe not enough primer pumps. if you want to see if you are flooding it with too many, take out the plug after your 5 pumps and pull it a few times and quickly remove the plug and inspect it for wetness. if you see gas on it and can smell it, its flooded and you are pulling many times to clear it out. if it comes out dry, you need to pump it more times until you find the magic # it likes. most engines are like women and have to have it their way or no way at all

if none of that helps, pull the plug and get a different brand that is maybe better than what came in it. NKG is top of the line BOSH is good too. get the most expensive offering you can get in one of those brands. like triple platinum to keep gap longer. speaking of gap, have you checked your and made sure it is at spec?

Offline bigredonice

  • Iceshanty Militia
  • Team IceShantyholic
  • *
  • Posts: 5,152
  • keep searchin' 'till ya find 'em.
Re: Nils Master Cold Start
« Reply #3 on: Dec 30, 2013, 12:33 PM »
the directions that came with my Nils Tanaka stated as follows.

Put the choke on full, pump the bulb twice and then give it one pull. 

now put the choke on halfway, and pull repeatedly till it starts, and idles.

once it has warmed up turn the choke completely off.




Offline esox_magnum

  • Team IceShanty Maniac
  • **
  • Posts: 3,552
Re: Nils Master Cold Start
« Reply #4 on: Dec 30, 2013, 12:37 PM »
Rare I ever prime mine, pulls to start depend on temps, colder means a few more....

Offline Chris Raymond

  • Team IceShanty Maniac
  • **
  • Posts: 1,287
  • Lifelong Outdoorsman
Re: Nils Master Cold Start
« Reply #5 on: Dec 30, 2013, 01:01 PM »
I've been told pushing the bulb doesn't really "prime" the motor.  What I do is push the bulb 2-3 times, place the choke on full (far left) and gently pull the cord 3-4 times to get gas into the motor, if it hasn't started then move the choke to half (middle) and pull once and it usually starts up.  Temperature doesn't seem to impact this for me.   
Chris Raymond

Offline fishlessman

  • Team IceShanty Maniac
  • **
  • Posts: 1,423
Re: Nils Master Cold Start
« Reply #6 on: Dec 30, 2013, 01:21 PM »
mine starts within a couple pulls no matter what temp, i prime 2 to 3 times until i see the gass start to move thru the tube and start it on full choke, will have to try half choke and see what that does. when it came in new the clear tubing from the gas tank had a pinhole in it that affected starts, looked like someone horsed it on with sharp pliers at assembly, they sent me a new hose and i replaced it. im also a full believer in amsoil and ice augers

Offline evobassfish

  • Team IceShanty Addict
  • *
  • Posts: 804
Re: Nils Master Cold Start
« Reply #7 on: Dec 30, 2013, 01:34 PM »
Someone had mentioned on a non Nils related thread that if theres gas in the primer bulb do not prime anymore. Just put on full choke and pull until it starts then ckoke off and run. I did this the next time out and sure enough she started up easier from a cold start. From then on whenever i go to fire up the auger to drill more holes i put on full choke and pull until she runs.

Offline Shidso

  • IceShanty Rookie
  • **
  • Posts: 9
Re: Nils Master Cold Start
« Reply #8 on: Dec 30, 2013, 09:56 PM »
Thanks for all the input.  I will try it out with some of the starting tips and see how it works.  My spark gap was at .20 instead of the .24 its supposed to be.  I may pick up a NGK plug and see how that works.  I am also running Amsoil in the Nils as well.  I will update in a few days whether starting has became easier!

Offline esox_magnum

  • Team IceShanty Maniac
  • **
  • Posts: 3,552
Re: Nils Master Cold Start
« Reply #9 on: Dec 30, 2013, 10:13 PM »
Nice reminder on the NGK been meaning to swap out the POS Champion one since I got mine 6 years ago LOL

Offline mrgundog

  • IceShanty Rookie
  • **
  • Posts: 45
Re: Nils Master Cold Start
« Reply #10 on: Dec 30, 2013, 11:45 PM »
I had purchased a350 that just would not start in the cold. They make lots of these everyday it is not hard to think some may have a quirk. The dealer changed it out and the new one starts like a champ warm or cold. I was told the primer is not really a primer. You are just getting fuel to the carb making it easier for the choke to pull fuel in. Press the bulb tell you see fuel in the line then choke pull a few times then half choke if not started and you should be good to go. I was surprised to see a champion plug in a Tanka motor.
Life is to short to hunt with a ugly dog

Offline gsppointer

  • IceShanty Rookie
  • **
  • Posts: 29
Re: Nils Master Cold Start
« Reply #11 on: Dec 31, 2013, 05:25 AM »
Not a mechanic here but was having similar issues. I started holding the throttle down and starts on 2nd or 3rd pull every time.

Offline Shidso

  • IceShanty Rookie
  • **
  • Posts: 9
Re: Nils Master Cold Start
« Reply #12 on: Jan 01, 2014, 12:58 AM »
Tried the new plug and starting techniques and it still is extremely difficult to start.  This is the email I received from Tanaka.
 Good morning,
 The issue you are having with the cold starting is caused by the EPA and CARB emmision standards. The carburetors are factory set to maintain a certain level of fuel getting to the engine at start. The cold air is heavier and it requires more fuel to start. If there is any way to warm the engine before start it will help. If not you can take it to and ASC and see if they can adjust the carburetor for better cold weather starting. I have provided the link to locate an ACS. If you have any questions please feel free to contact us. http://www.tanaka-usa.com/main-navigation/retailers
Thank you,

Chris Harris
Technical Support/Technician
Hitachi Power Tools
Tanaka OPE
3950 Steve Reynolds Blvd
Norcross Ga. 30093
1(800)829-4752 ext 339
www.hitachipowertools. com 

Sounds like the new motors are more emission controlled making it harder to start?  They say I should take to a small engine shop to get carb adjusted.  Doesn't make much sense to me shouldn't it be set to start in cold weather being it is an ICE AUGER??  Not sure where to go from here as I do not really want to get another new one and break it in and I'm assuming they may be out for the year already. 

Offline bee

  • Team IceShanty Maniac
  • **
  • Posts: 4,063
Re: Nils Master Cold Start
« Reply #13 on: Jan 01, 2014, 08:14 AM »
Tried the new plug and starting techniques and it still is extremely difficult to start.  This is the email I received from Tanaka.
 Good morning,
 The issue you are having with the cold starting is caused by the EPA and CARB emmision standards. The carburetors are factory set to maintain a certain level of fuel getting to the engine at start. The cold air is heavier and it requires more fuel to start. If there is any way to warm the engine before start it will help. If not you can take it to and ASC and see if they can adjust the carburetor for better cold weather starting. I have provided the link to locate an ACS. If you have any questions please feel free to contact us. http://www.tanaka-usa.com/main-navigation/retailers
Thank you,

Chris Harris
Technical Support/Technician
Hitachi Power Tools
Tanaka OPE
3950 Steve Reynolds Blvd
Norcross Ga. 30093
1(800)829-4752 ext 339
www.hitachipowertools. com 

Sounds like the new motors are more emission controlled making it harder to start?  They say I should take to a small engine shop to get carb adjusted.  Doesn't make much sense to me shouldn't it be set to start in cold weather being it is an ICE AUGER??  Not sure where to go from here as I do not really want to get another new one and break it in and I'm assuming they may be out for the year already.
The primary use of that motor is as a bulb planting drill not an ice auger.
Thats Why They Call It Fishing.

Offline esox_magnum

  • Team IceShanty Maniac
  • **
  • Posts: 3,552
Re: Nils Master Cold Start
« Reply #14 on: Jan 01, 2014, 08:25 AM »
There is a different jet you can get for the carb, mabe Sharp Nils will see this I think he knows the part number.....

Offline cold_feet

  • IceShanty Mod Team
  • Team IceShanty Maniac
  • *
  • Posts: 1,804
  • Ice is Cool!!
Re: Nils Master Cold Start
« Reply #15 on: Jan 01, 2014, 08:36 AM »
Get away from the gas you are using. I can bet you ran Ethanol mixed fuel in this auger and by doing so I can bet you need a carb rebuild. 10% ethanol softens and erodes away the diaphragm and needle and also corrodes the insides of carbs and does this in a short time frame. If you are handy you can do it yourself and rebuild it if not take it to a small engine mechanic and pay for it to be done. If you do not have the proper tools to set the needle relief to the deck of the carb its really moot to do it yourself for what it costs get a trained mechanic to do it. After you get this done and it is running and starting easily use this chart go to your state and begin to run this fuel ONLY in your small engines. Non Ethanol fuel can be found so I recommend using it.

http://pure-gas.org/

Offline 3300

  • Iceshanty Militia
  • Team IceShantyholic
  • *
  • Posts: 7,463
  • Michigan Moderator.Not affiliated with MarCum Tech
Re: Nils Master Cold Start
« Reply #16 on: Jan 01, 2014, 09:11 AM »
i work on all sorts of things, engines since 1975.
heres what i would do if it were mine.
-first dump out all of the fuel into some thing clear like glass and check it a few hours later for water. this is the number one problem with small engines. they have smaller gas tanks and so are easier to contaminate with it. it's probably your problem too.

-second, find all of the adjustment screws and a piece of paper. turn each one in until it stops, (make sure you do not use high force when doing it or you can ruin the needle by making an impression ring into the metal point of the needle). use the 12 o'clock position to count at when it passes 12 o'clock and count how many times it took to run it to bottom. example, if it was pointing at 9 o'clock/3 o'clock then count it as 9 o'clock and watch for it to be straight up and count the straight up as 12 o'clock. say it passed 12 o'clock two times. so that means the needle was two and one quarter turns when you started. so on paper you write 2 and one quarter turns for the jet you just adjusted. now return it to where you found it

-do this to each screw/needle you find.
i count in half turns when counting and make stops at 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock so i don't get confuse and say it out loud.

most manufactures mark the engine cover so the mechanic knows which screw/needle does what.  so you might find markings like (L) for low speed fuel/air mixture and (F or H) for fast/high speed fuel/air mixture.
what you are wanting to do is increase the fuel in the (L) as that is the fuel/air mixture screw for low or no throttle and that is the one you need to give more fuel thru.

-so turn it out 1/4 turn to 1/2 turn area and try another couple pulls. you will find what it wants. just don't let it get warm at all while messing with it. if it does, then stop and wait until lits ice cold again.

the reason you bottom out and return each screw and write it down is for when you forget what the factory had on them, so you can reset it all.

you can't mess up if you do what i said, so do not be afraid at all.
oh, after doing all of this check that glass bowl of fuel and look into the bottom of it for a weird looking liquid. that is water and is heavier than gas so its on the bottom. if you see any. get rid of all of your gas and allow the gas tank you fill at the pumps to air out or buy a new one. thats how most get water in their tanks.
i use sea foam on every thing even 2 cycle. it is meant for it. get some and use it to keep water out and engine cleaner. put it in your big gas cans. they condensate too much to not get water in them.

those who said the primer does not put gas into the engine are correct. it only gets gas to the carb. so you are not wasting pull starts trying to do the same thing with vacume pulling gas to the carb.

engines are funny and they want it their way or the hard way. try different choke settings and as one member said, try giving it partial throttle to get even more fuel/air coming into it in the first place.

i like stihl engines (i have 3) in part because they have a lever you squeeze and it locks in a preset throttle position so you don't have to as you work on holding and pulling on the unit.
thats too bad the company you choose did not do that for you.

let us know how you do, it's easier than it sounds, for real

-one more thing. if you have an air compressor and are handy enough to get the fuel filter out of the gas tank (coat hanger with a hook will pull it out grabbing the gas line) and blow air thru the filter to remove the water from it. if not, replace it or try to blow thru it with your mouth and see if it is full of water. worst case is warm it up and make certain it is dried out completely and blow into it to make it air passes thru it easily


Offline evobassfish

  • Team IceShanty Addict
  • *
  • Posts: 804
Re: Nils Master Cold Start
« Reply #17 on: Jan 01, 2014, 10:46 AM »
I'm running the champion ez start iridium tip plug, find the cross reference plug and don't gap the plug you can ruin the iridium electrode. I think the gap should be within spec so you don't have to gap it. Does your auger bit rotate at all when it's idling? If it doesn't I would adjust the throttle screw on the carb (refer to the manual). I'm not a mechanic either but this is what I did and it works for me. Good luck and report back if anything  :tipup:

Offline evobassfish

  • Team IceShanty Addict
  • *
  • Posts: 804
Re: Nils Master Cold Start
« Reply #18 on: Jan 01, 2014, 10:54 AM »
What ratio are you running for fuel? And what octane?

Offline Shidso

  • IceShanty Rookie
  • **
  • Posts: 9
Re: Nils Master Cold Start
« Reply #19 on: Jan 01, 2014, 11:03 AM »
I have it mixed to about 50:1 with Amsoil Saber and Premium fuel from a gas station on that list with ethanol free fuel.  I did not want any ethanol in this engine at all but I fear they have it in all gas now whether it is marked ethanol free or not.  The fuel I mixed claimed to be "ethanol free" and I mixed half gallon of 50:1 to break in the engine and have burned maybe half of it.  I planned on switching to 80 or 100:1 from then on.  May try messing with the carb settings.  Like I said it was brand new and I have maybe ran 1.5-2 tanks of fuel through it thus far. 

Offline evobassfish

  • Team IceShanty Addict
  • *
  • Posts: 804
Re: Nils Master Cold Start
« Reply #20 on: Jan 01, 2014, 11:36 AM »
Dump the 50:1 and do 90:1 with amsoils sabre, change the plug again and try the champion ez start iridium plug, its a little spendy but it will improve your starting.  Full choke "everytime" you go to start until it runs then choke off and drill. I tried doing it the way the manual advises but it hasn't worked for me.

Offline Sportsman44

  • Team IceShanty Regular
  • ***
  • Posts: 244
Re: Nils Master Cold Start
« Reply #21 on: Jan 01, 2014, 11:41 AM »
Excellent thread by the way. 
 
A reply to another post advised filling several liters of premium gas into your car before filling your portable gas can at the gas pump.  This eliminates the regular fuel that may be in the hose from the previous dude that filled his car tank.  This speaks to the issue of keeping ethanol from regular fuel out of the auger's engine and ensuring a good mix of premium fuel and oil premix
Sportsman



Offline cold_feet

  • IceShanty Mod Team
  • Team IceShanty Maniac
  • *
  • Posts: 1,804
  • Ice is Cool!!
Re: Nils Master Cold Start
« Reply #22 on: Jan 02, 2014, 07:03 AM »
If the fuel is marked Ethanol free they must sell it that way and can not sell Ethanol in this pump. You can tell almost  immediately by the smell if it contains Ethanol. Their is also a kit you can purchase sort of like litmus paper test which turns colors if Ethanol is in this fuel.  Secondly you stated you have not fooled with the fuel high and low speed settings.  You have to learn to do this with carburetors without set jetting.  But be aware on the high speed side leave the settings slightly rich where the engine should have a oh so slight rich bobble at full throttle and not run perfect or slightly lean. Reason is you do not want to scorch a piston running it lean. All 2 strokes should sound slightly rich at full throttle for this reason.

   Biggest mistakes everyone makes is when they pack these things away for the summer. Learn to take them out during summer and run them minimum once a month.  I still venture to say your Carb is skanked up thus the lean condition going on at start up now and lack of idling. If I were you get a carb number from the machine and either go to a small engine shop and order a carb kit or go on Ebay and order one and have it on hand.  Then Google up the rebuilding of the carb you have and learn how to rebuild one. They really are simple to do as you are just replacing parts.  Just be very careful of the fuel needle adjustment internal not the screw fuel adjustment those are meant to change.

Offline bee

  • Team IceShanty Maniac
  • **
  • Posts: 4,063
Re: Nils Master Cold Start
« Reply #23 on: Jan 02, 2014, 08:59 AM »
If the fuel is marked Ethanol free they must sell it that way and can not sell Ethanol in this pump. You can tell almost  immediately by the smell if it contains Ethanol. Their is also a kit you can purchase sort of like litmus paper test which turns colors if Ethanol is in this fuel.  Secondly you stated you have not fooled with the fuel high and low speed settings.  You have to learn to do this with carburetors without set jetting.  But be aware on the high speed side leave the settings slightly rich where the engine should have a oh so slight rich bobble at full throttle and not run perfect or slightly lean. Reason is you do not want to scorch a piston running it lean. All 2 strokes should sound slightly rich at full throttle for this reason.

   Biggest mistakes everyone makes is when they pack these things away for the summer. Learn to take them out during summer and run them minimum once a month.  I still venture to say your Carb is skanked up thus the lean condition going on at start up now and lack of idling. If I were you get a carb number from the machine and either go to a small engine shop and order a carb kit or go on Ebay and order one and have it on hand.  Then Google up the rebuilding of the carb you have and learn how to rebuild one. They really are simple to do as you are just replacing parts.  Just be very careful of the fuel needle adjustment internal not the screw fuel adjustment those are meant to change.
  Tanaka's have no low and high speed adjust. Only idle speed adjust.
Thats Why They Call It Fishing.

Offline 3300

  • Iceshanty Militia
  • Team IceShantyholic
  • *
  • Posts: 7,463
  • Michigan Moderator.Not affiliated with MarCum Tech
Re: Nils Master Cold Start
« Reply #24 on: Jan 02, 2014, 09:10 AM »
  Tanaka's have no low and high speed adjust. Only idle speed adjust.


Step 7: You can now re-fill the fuel tank. Pump the fuel circulation bulb on the bottom of the carb until you see fuel in the bulb and
fuel going back to the gas tank thru the yellow fuel line. Double check the operation of your throttle again.

Step 8: Set the adjustment screws as follows: High speed 1-3/4 turns out, low speed 1 turn out. To set the high and low speed,
turn them all the way in just until they stop, then back them out the suggested amount. The high speed is the black slotted screw
that sticks out the side of the carb. The low speed screw is located in the center of the throttle fulcrum at the top of the carb, next to
the swivel where the cable connects.. The high speed needs to be adjusted for peak speed/rpm while riding, then turn it out 1/16 of
a turn. Never adjust the high speed by free revving with the back wheel off of the ground and holding the throttle wide open while
adjusting the screw. The low speed should be adjusted for good throttle response when initially accelerating. As you adjust your low
speed setting, it may affect idle speed. Idle is adjusted by turning the screw that acts as a stop for the throttle fulcrum.

http://www.adaracing.com/pdf/blhpck-40.pdf

http://www.adaracing.com/scooter/hp-carb-kit-tanaka-40cc-bladez-moby-xl-scooter/blhpck-40?gclid=CKa4i8Hh37sCFbBAMgodJXsASA


Offline wetboots

  • Team IceShanty Regular
  • ***
  • Posts: 224
Re: Nils Master Cold Start
« Reply #25 on: Jan 02, 2014, 09:21 AM »
Love my ION,  Not  trying to be A wise *ss  I am just sick of all the ethenol related problems with small engines and realy don't enjoy trudging across A windy lake to struggle drilling holes!    LOOOOVE MY ION!

Offline Shidso

  • IceShanty Rookie
  • **
  • Posts: 9
Re: Nils Master Cold Start
« Reply #26 on: Jan 02, 2014, 09:55 AM »
I have only ran non ethanol fuel through this and if my carb is getting gunked up after not even 2 tanks of non ethanol mix how tedious is this engine and carb?  There is no cleaner fuel I can get and my carb should not be gunked up.  It was brand new.  The only other option I have it to buy the sealed containers of VP small engine fuels.  And like bee said there is no high and low adjustment screws only idle.  I can not for the life of me find any at least.  Gonna try the Champion EZ start plug with 90:1 mix and see if anything changes.  If not I may need to bring to small engine shop and see what they recommend or talk to Tanaka again.  I love the auger but I'm not gonna settle for 20 plus pulls to start it when its below zero because we see a lot of that weather up here in dead of winter. 

Offline esox_magnum

  • Team IceShanty Maniac
  • **
  • Posts: 3,552
Re: Nils Master Cold Start
« Reply #27 on: Jan 02, 2014, 10:06 AM »

Step 7: You can now re-fill the fuel tank. Pump the fuel circulation bulb on the bottom of the carb until you see fuel in the bulb and
fuel going back to the gas tank thru the yellow fuel line. Double check the operation of your throttle again.

Step 8: Set the adjustment screws as follows: High speed 1-3/4 turns out, low speed 1 turn out. To set the high and low speed,
turn them all the way in just until they stop, then back them out the suggested amount. The high speed is the black slotted screw
that sticks out the side of the carb. The low speed screw is located in the center of the throttle fulcrum at the top of the carb, next to
the swivel where the cable connects.. The high speed needs to be adjusted for peak speed/rpm while riding, then turn it out 1/16 of
a turn. Never adjust the high speed by free revving with the back wheel off of the ground and holding the throttle wide open while
adjusting the screw. The low speed should be adjusted for good throttle response when initially accelerating. As you adjust your low
speed setting, it may affect idle speed. Idle is adjusted by turning the screw that acts as a stop for the throttle fulcrum.

http://www.adaracing.com/pdf/blhpck-40.pdf

http://www.adaracing.com/scooter/hp-carb-kit-tanaka-40cc-bladez-moby-xl-scooter/blhpck-40?gclid=CKa4i8Hh37sCFbBAMgodJXsASA

 Different carb, mine only has idle no other carb adjustments....

Offline bee

  • Team IceShanty Maniac
  • **
  • Posts: 4,063
Re: Nils Master Cold Start
« Reply #28 on: Jan 02, 2014, 10:11 AM »

Step 7: You can now re-fill the fuel tank. Pump the fuel circulation bulb on the bottom of the carb until you see fuel in the bulb and
fuel going back to the gas tank thru the yellow fuel line. Double check the operation of your throttle again.

Step 8: Set the adjustment screws as follows: High speed 1-3/4 turns out, low speed 1 turn out. To set the high and low speed,
turn them all the way in just until they stop, then back them out the suggested amount. The high speed is the black slotted screw
that sticks out the side of the carb. The low speed screw is located in the center of the throttle fulcrum at the top of the carb, next to
the swivel where the cable connects.. The high speed needs to be adjusted for peak speed/rpm while riding, then turn it out 1/16 of
a turn. Never adjust the high speed by free revving with the back wheel off of the ground and holding the throttle wide open while
adjusting the screw. The low speed should be adjusted for good throttle response when initially accelerating. As you adjust your low
speed setting, it may affect idle speed. Idle is adjusted by turning the screw that acts as a stop for the throttle fulcrum.

http://www.adaracing.com/pdf/blhpck-40.pdf

http://www.adaracing.com/scooter/hp-carb-kit-tanaka-40cc-bladez-moby-xl-scooter/blhpck-40?gclid=CKa4i8Hh37sCFbBAMgodJXsASA
The Tanaka TED-270PDFH is the Motor used on most all the augers and it has no adjustments. Mine is 1foot away as I type this
Thats Why They Call It Fishing.

Offline 3300

  • Iceshanty Militia
  • Team IceShantyholic
  • *
  • Posts: 7,463
  • Michigan Moderator.Not affiliated with MarCum Tech
Re: Nils Master Cold Start
« Reply #29 on: Jan 02, 2014, 12:01 PM »
The Tanaka TED-270PDFH is the Motor used on most all the augers and it has no adjustments. Mine is 1foot away as I type this

well that sux if you have problems with the jet settings huh

 



Follow Iceshanty at Twitter Iceshanty Facebook Page Iceshanty Youtube Channel
Iceshanty | MyFishFinder | MyHuntingForum
Contact | Disclaimer | Privacypolicy | Sponsor
© 1996- Iceshanty.com
All Rights Reserved.