Budget MN Ice Trip, Help!

[WiscoWally]

A friend and I both took off of work the first week of January. We were thinking of driving from the Green Bay area to northern Minnesota in search of thicker Ice.

We're looking for help picking where to go, and how to do it affordably. I have dreamed of trying Lake Of The Woods, but I've recently read a lot of reports of small walleye over the past few years. Should we try Upper Red Lake instead? Leech Lake? I've never fished in Minnesota before... The resorts are just a little out of budget at the moment, but we really want to find some good action (we can catch one or two big walleye in a day at home, what we want is to catch and release lots of medium size walleye.

I'm going to camp in my truck, I've done it before. We've got full Ice fishing gear as well. If temps drop below -20, with tons of wind, I'd be willing to pay for one night at a hotel, but I'd probably have to go home early if a hotel was needed every night. Is there a resort on Red or LOTW that sells access to showers without a $100+ a night room involved? Is there a preferred place to access one of these lakes (I'm fine paying the $10 or so for an Ice road pass).

Please send your ideas! What would you do if you had the first week of January to fish northern MN, but not a ton of money for the full resort experience? Thanks all, and tight lines!

[eriksat1]

My vote would be upper red.
Walleye and crappie.

[laketrouthunter94]

I would say Upper Red, but LOTW is good too. Average size on Upper Red is much better. You'll get lots of action on LOTW, but you'll have to work through lots of little ones. Up on LOTW, Sportsman's Lodge has a shower house anyone can use and pay in quarters. It's fairly new and I've taken advantage of it, great for campers and wheelhouse folks. Ice road access on LOTW is generally $10-15 a day.

[GBguy]

I've done a handful of LOTW sleeper shack trips over the last 10-12 years, I wouldn't go back. Our first trip was what we were hoping for in terms of fishing success, and every subsequent trip was worse. Maybe my expectations were too high, but catching less than 5 fish in a day fishing from the time you wake up until you go to bed is disappointing. I caught more walleye by accident in one morning on the bay of GB than I did in a whole day trying for them on LOTW.

I understand that kind of success rate is possible anywhere, and it is possible the next trip could be better, but it all comes down to expectations. Sounds like you're expecting to have a "run out of bait" kinda day and might need to temper your expectations to "run out of beer" instead.

I've never fished any of the other waters in MN so I can't really provide any suggestions. But the next time I head to MN to ice fish, I'll probably just keep on driving and fish ND instead. Devils Lake is only an hour further than LOTW.

[DaleL57]

Went to Woodlands Resort on Devil’s Lake last February (2023).
Their “deal” was to put you in an ice house for walleye in the morning and late afternoon.
During the day moving you to another shack for perch.
After 3 days of not catching much, the guys taking me out were asking me where to go.
People that were using Perch Patrol guide service were slaying them.
But double occupancy, $100 a day.
I was solo and spent too much as it was.
Will never go back.

[thomasthepikehunter]

I don't have any first hand looks at northern MN ice conditions right now. Based on how this winter has been, I would not even consider Leech right now. LOTW may be ok. Upper red is the first of the big lakes to freeze. The great thing about red is it has high numbers of eater size walleye, not too much for restrictions, and it's easy to fish. There's a number of resorts you can go out from, the fee is small, maybe $10 or $15, and there is a free public access as well. You don't have to go far out there like most big lakes. There's not much for big perch (nothing in MN really compares to perch in the Dakota's anyway). Supposedly there are big pike around, but they seem to be low in numbers in my experience. Supposedly the crappie numbers are back up in red. 2 years ago you didn't even hear about them, but things can change quick with panfish.

LOTW on the MN side at least is kind of feast or famine in my experience. There's really no structure, yet fish school up hard in random spots. You have to go way out there n the winter (I've never tried it early ice). Access is not hard, but it's not spread out either. To get to prime fishing on LOTW often takes treks of multiple miles. What's good about LOTW is it can be fantastic, and there are some massive fish out there. Pike aren't that special, but one great thing is there is no closed season. Late ice pike on LOTW can be fantastic. There's a lot more variety on LOTW.

For next weekend, definitely upper red.

P.S. I've never tried it, but apparently the resorts will let you sleep in their shacks on shore for very cheap on red.

[E Z turn]

 You may want to check You tube for Curt Qusnell. He posts a lot of LOW fishing reports.

[MissRappala]

I’ll be up there around the same time as you for a trip also and I strongly push Red over LOTW any day - for average size and general #’s guarantee of being able to land some eyes on ice. Crappie too if they want to play. My insight on size is that I’ve been apart of the fisheries surveys within recent years on both ‘sides’ of the lake and the major age class out there is looking even better now.

Pay tight attention to the ice conditions there, super helpful to look at resort FB pages they are great at updating daily for their accesses/fishing reports. Ex. ‘Roger’s on Red’ had a large open water crack chunk this last week to deal with. Cracks are often early season, don’t get caught on the side needing help is my tip lol.

Greater MN Rentals is a reliable access that isn’t one of the nuts trying to charge $20 to use their ice roads, plus my dad & brother in law have had good catches out from there the last few days. Given the lack of snow everywhere there rn, a private access isn’t necessary if you’re willing to traverse a bit from the public access.

[DTro]

I feel like you would drive past a lot of other great lakes in the process of chasing a mythical bite.   You won't find a fish factory anywhere else like Lake of the Woods, but yeah they are mostly smaller fish and it doesn't get really good until the bombers and roads can get you 25 miles out on to the main lake and that might not be happening yet in a couple of weeks when you plan to go. 
URL is probably your best bet, but even then, you might have missed the early ice window. URL is good no doubt about it, but once that seasonal bite window closes, it gets a lot tougher.  When does that happen?   It happens when it does.

[Skywagon]

If you decide to go to Red lake, don't take your plane.  https://www.kvrr.com/2023/12/19/plane-lands-on-upper-red-lake-breaks-through-the-ice/

[lowaccord66]

If you decide to go to Red lake, don't take your plane.  https://www.kvrr.com/2023/12/19/plane-lands-on-upper-red-lake-breaks-through-the-ice/

For those that may not know much about Aviation that pilot is going to get a lovely phone call from the FAA.  Wouldnt be surprised if hes not flying for a bit.

[SnoHam13]

just got off the phone with my son [he is on the iron range]

he is with st louis county search & rescue in Mn.
several 4 wheelers went threw red lake and lake vermillion 
ice is sketchy at best with a warm up on the way
might want to wait a bit yet

[SnoHam13]

If you decide to go to Red lake, don't take your plane.  https://www.kvrr.com/2023/12/19/plane-lands-on-upper-red-lake-breaks-through-the-ice/

at least the wings will keep it above the ice

[thomasthepikehunter]

just got off the phone with my son [he is on the iron range]

he is with st louis county search & rescue in Mn.
several 4 wheelers went threw red lake and lake vermillion 
ice is sketchy at best with a warm up on the way
might want to wait a bit yet

It's fine on foot if you know what you are doing. Anyone with a vehicle out there right now deserves to go for a swim, that's beyond idiotic. The lake I was on Sunday had 4 1/2" to 5" of ice, not the best most crystal ice either, but safe to walk on as long as you checked as you went. There was quite a few people out being safe, I was out with my normal gear, spud bar, ice spikes, etc. Then there was this one group of absolute morons. I'm not even sure how many there was, 15+ for sure. At first I saw the Argo, and figured well at least it floats. Then I realized it had pulled out multiple big trailers out there. Then they went for a move, and good lord, there must have been 10 people walking side by side this Argo with 3 people in the ARgo pulling a big trailer full of gear and more people sitting on the trailer. Based on the yelling and hooping, all of them were plastered. Water would rush from the holes as the ice cracked under them. By the grace of god they did not go through. It was the second dumbest thing I've ever seen someone do on the ice. I'm not saying people don't make mistakes, but its unbelievable to take a 4 wheeler out right now. I don't understand how people can look their kids or wife in the eyes, say they love them, and then do something so stupid like this. All just because you're too goddamn lazy to walk 500 yards.

[TheCrappieFisherman]

Guys are starting to fish Leech and resorts are starting to let customers out. Just depends where on the lake. Good fishing but not my first choice.

The Red Lake public access is on a river and not safe to use. Go through a resort for updated info and knwoing where safe ice is. Most resorts have their houses on shore currently at a very reduced rate. Ex- 4 man ice castle for $120/night.
Places to check with- Beacon Harbor, First City Guide Service,  Red Lake Remote, Greater MN etc.

Lake Winni and Cass have good fishing just east of Bemidji. And soooo many surrounding smaller lakes to hop around on. Winni has a bunch of resorts like The Pines. 

[thomasthepikehunter]

Guys are starting to fish Leech and resorts are starting to let customers out. Just depends where on the lake. Good fishing but not my first choice.

The Red Lake public access is on a river and not safe to use. Go through a resort for updated info and knwoing where safe ice is. Most resorts have their houses on shore currently at a very reduced rate. Ex- 4 man ice castle for $120/night.
Places to check with- Beacon Harbor, First City Guide Service,  Red Lake Remote, Greater MN etc.

Lake Winni and Cass have good fishing just east of Bemidji. And soooo many surrounding smaller lakes to hop around on. Winni has a bunch of resorts like The Pines.

$120 a night to sleep in an overgrown trailer? Good grief. I figured they'd be more like $20. Doesn't make much sense compared to a hotel.

[TheCrappieFisherman]

$120 a night to sleep in an overgrown trailer? Good grief. I figured they'd be more like $20. Doesn't make much sense compared to a hotel.

The example I was using is 4 man new ice castle.  $120/ night TOTAL. Bring 4 people that's $30 a person per night. There are other bare bone fish houses for cheaper through resorts. Way cheaper than any cabin or a hotel room plus the drive back and forth.

The closest "hotel" is 30 min away.  Wake up and might be doing the shooks shake from who knows what are in those rooms.

[zcm_82]

Yeah, there isn't much around Red. Baudette, TRF, or Bemidji would be the closest hotel you'd find. At least it was when I lived up there, been a while.

I always thought Red and Leech were both very overrated. I always did a lot better fishing local than I ever did making a few longer trips to bigger water... ymmv 🤷‍♂️

PS - Red is scary as balls open water when it gets windy 💀

[Timmer]

There have been three rescues on Red just in the last week.  Last night 2 guys on an ATV went through.  https://kfgo.com/2023/12/22/crews-rescue-men-who-fell-through-ice-on-upper-red-lake-3rd-rescue-in-a-week/  It's getting warmer through Sunday and not all that cold after that.  I would say go as far north as you can.

We just canceled our trip to Winnie at the turn of the year. 

[thomasthepikehunter]

Yeah, there isn't much around Red. Baudette, TRF, or Bemidji would be the closest hotel you'd find. At least it was when I lived up there, been a while.

I always thought Red and Leech were both very overrated. I always did a lot better fishing local than I ever did making a few longer trips to bigger water... ymmv 🤷‍♂️

PS - Red is scary as balls open water when it gets windy 💀

Red wasn't really that good for a while after the crappie boom died off. I would say it was bout 5 years ago that it really started to get good again. I'm not sure why it would be that bad in the wind. It isn't like LOTW where you can be 10 miles from the launch. You're basically 1/2 mile from shore at the most. Most people only go out a few hundred yards. Most people just take their normal boats, plenty of little 14' aluminum boats out there.

I think a lot of people that have fished "leech", have in reality never been outside of Walker bay. Leech is a crazy lake. I have no reason to believe there are not giants in there. The problem is the insane amount of structure, bays, and overall size like nothing else in MN. Walker bay itself is like a super structured, giant lake, and it's what, 10% of the lake if that? I have never had good luck on Leech, but I don't think it's the lakes fault. It's definitely a local treasure, I wouldn't recommend it as an out of stater trip.

In my experience, LOTW is the worst for open water wind. One time we went out from Zippel bay, and maybe 7-8 miles down the shoreline. We were absolutely hammering fish out there, then out of seemingly nowhere wind blew in. It was not dangerous, but it was a very wet and uncomfortable ride back to the launch. There is so much of LOTW shore with nothing there. No resorts, no launches, no towns, nothing. Mille Lacs can get bad too, as can most big lakes, but nothing feels so isolated like LOTW. Most charters you see are absolute massive boats. I think my boat was one of the smallest I've seen out there. Not a lot of guys head out in 16'-17' boats, at least they don't stray far from the bay.

.

[OldSailor]

If I were you I would go out on LOW and catch some fish and enjoy yourself!!!  Google Lake of the Woods for resorts!! They're already fishing and catching!!

[zcm_82]

I've never fished LOTW, and Leech only through the ice with my Dad and uncle, and we never did that great. Agree, there is just a LOT there.

Cass was always like that for me, too. Tons of structure, but I just never could really get on many fish well the few times I went out there. I did wipe out my prop on a big rock pile one time... last time I went on Cass

Red just kicks up fast being so big and shallow. I had a pretty narrow, shallow sided 14' boat at the time, and it didn't handle chop well. I've been down here going on 17 years, so I didn't know there had been another big die off in it. Think the last time I was up there was maybe 2008, maybe 2009.

I swamped that boat on Bemidji one time when a storm blew in from the west side. I was over by the old bridge on the river outlet. Hindsight, I shoulda just beached it right there, but I made a run back for Cameron where I'd put in like an idiot. Put the transom under and killed the motor maybe 50 yards from shore... lucky that whole area is really shallow. It didn't completely sink so I was able to pull it the rest of the way and get it winched back up on the trailer and drained out. The folly of youth 🤷‍♂️

That motor was never the same again after that drowning, even after stripping it and putting it all back together. Sold it to a guy to tinker with and scrapped that old tin tub probably 12-13 years ago.

[thomasthepikehunter]

I don't know what year exactly is considered the crappie bust. The walleye went first, I'm pretty sure that was in the 90's. Then there was a short crappie boom right around 2000. It must have been mid 2000's when that died off. I don't even think they had walleye season on Red for a few years, they probably just opened it back up around 2009. It was trash for a long time. Red today is nothing like it was in 2009.

[zcm_82]

I don't know what year exactly is considered the crappie bust. The walleye went first, I'm pretty sure that was in the 90's. Then there was a short crappie boom right around 2000. It must have been mid 2000's when that died off. I don't even think they had walleye season on Red for a few years, they probably just opened it back up around 2009. It was trash for a long time. Red today is nothing like it was in 2009.

Yeah, the walleye crash was mid/late 90s. I remember that. The big crappie craze was going on up there when I moved, and that was 2006. One of my uncles went up there quite a bit. I mostly stuck to local small water. There were a handful of small lakes I hit a lot.

A few of them got blown up really bad, so no idea how they are now. One of them you could pretty much only access in the winter unless you were using a canoe, and it went from being maybe half a dozen fish houses any given day to a city out there over the course of a few winters... it declined really rapidly. I didn't even bother fishing it my last couple years there.