Author Topic: Tow bar  (Read 586 times)

Offline rippinlips25

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Tow bar
« on: Jan 30, 2019, 04:17 PM »
What's the best tow bar for a frabill predator flip over

Offline Monticatgeek

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Re: Tow bar
« Reply #1 on: Jan 30, 2019, 08:38 PM »
this is made by Clam but works on all brands of houses :

http://stores.clamoutdoors.com/clam/accessories/towing/pro-series-tow-hitch.html
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Offline muskyon46

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Re: Tow bar
« Reply #2 on: Jan 30, 2019, 10:26 PM »
X2, it's a little spendy but I love it on my x200. Very sturdy hitch and the connection to the tub is great
         

Offline doctorgee

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Re: Tow bar
« Reply #3 on: Feb 04, 2019, 10:05 AM »
this is made by Clam but works on all brands of houses :

http://stores.clamoutdoors.com/clam/accessories/towing/pro-series-tow-hitch.html

Pro Hitch :%$#!: :%$#!: :%$#!:

Do me a favor Monticatgeek, please tell your contacts at Clam to coordinate the shelters with the hitch. I recently bought an X200 flip over at Cabelas but they didn't have the hitch in stock so it was shipped to my house. There are holes pre-drilled (or half pre-drilled/started) in the front of the sled in the pattern for the pro hitch. When I got to assembling the hitch, I held up the tow bar and confirmed the holes that were in the sled were correct, they looked like they were, and there is no template in the package for drilling a sled. Problem is, the holes are about a half inch off from the tow bar backing plate. So rather than re-drill the sled, I had to elongate two of the holes to accommodate and that backer bar is HARDENED steel. I know it sounds minor but after assembling the x200 for about 5 hours (that was advertised as pre-assembled and was most assuredly NOT) that was not exactly happy time for me! Just let people know that they need to ignore the pre-drilled indents in the sled and use the backer bar as a template for the shackles please.
Quote- fishslap: I use a variety:  whistlin' bungholes, spleen splitters, whisker biscuits, honkey lighters, hoosker doos, hoosker don'ts, cherry bombs, nipsy daisers, with or without the scooter stick, or one single whistlin' kitty chaser

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Offline muskyon46

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Re: Tow bar
« Reply #4 on: Feb 04, 2019, 02:54 PM »
I had the same issue. If putting on a pro hitch, use the backer plate for your guide to drill holes
         

Offline Monticatgeek

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Re: Tow bar
« Reply #5 on: Feb 04, 2019, 06:46 PM »
Pro Hitch :%$#!: :%$#!: :%$#!:

Do me a favor Monticatgeek, please tell your contacts at Clam to coordinate the shelters with the hitch. I recently bought an X200 flip over at Cabelas but they didn't have the hitch in stock so it was shipped to my house. There are holes pre-drilled (or half pre-drilled/started) in the front of the sled in the pattern for the pro hitch. When I got to assembling the hitch, I held up the tow bar and confirmed the holes that were in the sled were correct, they looked like they were, and there is no template in the package for drilling a sled. Problem is, the holes are about a half inch off from the tow bar backing plate. So rather than re-drill the sled, I had to elongate two of the holes to accommodate and that backer bar is HARDENED steel. I know it sounds minor but after assembling the x200 for about 5 hours (that was advertised as pre-assembled and was most assuredly NOT) that was not exactly happy time for me! Just let people know that they need to ignore the pre-drilled indents in the sled and use the backer bar as a template for the shackles please.

the two holes on the sled you are referring to are for where the hand pull rope gets tied into and not for the pro hitch.  rule of thumb is to center the backing plate over those holes and they should give you the proper spacing for the hitch. as for the issue of being pre assembled when it comes to the house, the houses are not pre assembled unless you specifically buy one that was pre assembled(there is only a limited number of pre assembled houses made each season). the pre assembled house are like $200.00 more then the non pre assembled ones. if your's was truly a pre assembled it would of came in a large brown cardboard box. if it was not pre assemble it would of been in the standard white cardboard box.
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Offline doctorgee

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Re: Tow bar
« Reply #6 on: Feb 04, 2019, 08:30 PM »
The sled had the two large holes drilled right through for the pull rope, which I wish weren't there actually since I'll never pull this beast by hand.  I'm talking about the four indents that are obviously intended for the pro hitch brackets since they are perfectly spaced for the two zinc coated brackets. They are perfectly spaced for the brackets themselves, just a half inch off from the backer plate. Just below the pull rope holes.

The cabelas add online put the $1,250 pre assembled x200 pro thermal to 999 on sale. It still shows it online, but Cabelas in Scarborough ME doesn't have any assembled versions. I went to pick it up and got the unassembled for 999, yes it was a white box. Not too happy about it but that's cabelas fault and mine for not opening the box and checking before I made the 120 mile trip back home.

It's all good now, its assembled and ready to go, just be good to talk to the person with the pre drill template in the sled factory. Believe me, I know you're a rep and everything, but I have it right with what I'm saying. The pro hitch holes aren't fully drilled, they are half drilled. Check out an x200, front of the sled, you will see what I mean. These half holes are directly below the holes for the pull rope and 100% intended for the pro hitch brackets with the 4 bolts. Shame on me for not checking the drill pattern but shame on clam for not having it right.
Quote- fishslap: I use a variety:  whistlin' bungholes, spleen splitters, whisker biscuits, honkey lighters, hoosker doos, hoosker don'ts, cherry bombs, nipsy daisers, with or without the scooter stick, or one single whistlin' kitty chaser

Ice safety link: http://lakeice.squarespace.com/

Offline Bucket Rump

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Re: Tow bar
« Reply #7 on: Feb 07, 2019, 10:53 AM »
I can't speak to your particular shanty, but on my Shappell FX-100 I bought an Otter tow bar along with the Otter mounting kit.  The issue I ran into was the Otter setup didn't match up well in regards to the Shappell tub "rib" contours and the existing tow rope hole.  I ended up foregoing the otter mounting kit and used (4) Unistrut "L" brackets and two 1x4 pieces of cedar instead.  Was able to use the existing tow rope holes for the two outside brackets, but needed to drill additional holes to mount the inside brackets,  One cedar board was run inside the tub, the second one on the outside to provide support against the torque on the plastic tub.  With the "L" brackets installed, the connecting end of the Otter tow bar slips right in between them giving plenty of support to the linch pins.

Offline doctorgee

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Re: Tow bar
« Reply #8 on: Feb 07, 2019, 03:36 PM »
It's all my own fault, really, I should have checked the drill pattern Clam made against the backer plate. But when you spend a thousand bucks and you have to modify a backer plate to work properly, it's a little frustrating. Just figured someone from Clam would want to know as it would save some curse words from happening for the next guy.
Quote- fishslap: I use a variety:  whistlin' bungholes, spleen splitters, whisker biscuits, honkey lighters, hoosker doos, hoosker don'ts, cherry bombs, nipsy daisers, with or without the scooter stick, or one single whistlin' kitty chaser

Ice safety link: http://lakeice.squarespace.com/

 



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