Author Topic: Sleeper Shack Build  (Read 8432 times)

Offline XN

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #60 on: Dec 04, 2018, 07:17 AM »
Pl premium is good down to 40* I believe. Locktite power grab ultimate can cure down to 0* as long as the adhesive is above 40 when you apply it.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/pg_ca_ult/directions/Loctite-Power-Grab-Ultimate-Construction-Adhesive.htm

Frost will be bad with no insulation. Put at least plastic on the inside of the studs until you can afford insulation. Hell just use batt insulation cheap and 1 roll should about do it for you.

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #61 on: Dec 06, 2018, 10:15 PM »
Still moving along on the project. Decided to frame out a removable panel as to make it double as a hunting blind.

Three sheets of steel are up. Sorry no pics.

Curious as to how many people have built in furniture/benches compared to just an open floor plan and foldable chairs? I really am considering building a bench that will include storage underneath to really neaten up the floor space. Just worried that with this size shack that Iíll need all the room I can get?




Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #62 on: Dec 07, 2018, 08:34 PM »
Well was short on wood so the hunting blind feature will need to be framed in down the road. Finally decided on a floor plan and mounted the window and framed in the doorway. Planning to make the door big enough so I can store stuff like the snow blower in it during the off season.

Tomorrow the rest of the wall steel goes up and hopefully the roof.




Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #63 on: Dec 08, 2018, 05:56 PM »
Skipped working on the shack today and took the portable out to prefish the shacks future home. Had a good run for an hour or so there. Caught a keeper 15, rebaited and set the tip up back down. I didnít even get up from kneeling and this 22 trips the flag. Now thatís fun!




Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #64 on: Dec 10, 2018, 09:03 PM »
Well I worked all day Sunday to finish the wall sheeting and trimming and did the roof today. Had enough cut offs to save one whole sheet of steel so thatís good. Some extra seams now but oh well.

This trim Work and sealing everything for water around the gable end of the roof has been quite the hurdle for me though. I needed a flat surface to seal the rubber roof down to on top of the corregated steel. To do this I wound up buying precut foam for the outside edge of the steel, then clapped a 1x2 over that. Then I just flashed over the whole thing with a 3x3 galvanized angle. The rubber roof is fastened to the 1x2 and is not glued because I figured i can do a better job if I pull it up and redo it next summer. When itís warmer.

Had extra cut offs of corner trim so the eaves got some custom drip edge too that I think cleans up the look quite a bit.






Offline metalbender

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #65 on: Dec 11, 2018, 08:45 AM »
Looking good, the door off to the side is a great idea. Fold up or down seating would give you options for maximum space for any given situation   Some wire shelving around the perimeter at the top of the walls makes for airy storage, great for drying wet items too.

Offline metalbender

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #66 on: Dec 11, 2018, 08:49 AM »
Another useful addition is a couple of dollar store wire baskets to keep things handy and safe

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #67 on: Dec 11, 2018, 11:51 AM »
Thanks! Yeah wire baskets/shelves is definitely a good idea. Should help for drying stuff out for sure

So Iím debating with myself how to insulate the ceiling. I bought r13 batts that would work and vapor barrier. But Iím just not sure I want to worry about the potential for moisture/mold problems. It should be water tight up there from the roof but during transport I know itíll probably get some spray up and in the seams of the edges.

May just be better to do all foam. Donít want to be ripping out $40 worth of batting in a year to replace with the same dollar value of foam anyway. Just figured it would be a better r value with the batts.

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #68 on: Dec 11, 2018, 11:53 AM »
Also what are some better alternatives to plywood for a door? This just looks kinda janky. Only problem is Iím pretty sure I framed it a stupid custom width so no production unit would probably fit

Offline metalbender

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #69 on: Dec 11, 2018, 12:14 PM »
Some paint and a very large Playboy calender

Offline XN

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #70 on: Dec 11, 2018, 02:31 PM »
looking good! Pinkfoam insulation with great stuff around the edges works great as an alternative to spray foam. Just cut the foam 1" shorter than the height and width and great stuff in place! An insulated steel door would probably be the cheapest alternative door. Or just slap pink foam on the inside of the plywood door and more siding on the outside of it.

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #71 on: Dec 11, 2018, 10:52 PM »
Yeah I think if I painted the plywood next summer it wouldnít look so bad. The opening is like 29Ē so idk if Iíd be able to find a steel door. That playboy calander isnít a bad idea either. Haha.

I have enough 1Ē foam and great stuff to do the ceiling. Just not sure if I should go thicker on the ceiling and use the 1Ē for the walls. Then again Iíve gotta remind myself that itís an ice shack every now and again.

Offline Ice Scratcher

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #72 on: Dec 11, 2018, 11:14 PM »
I think painting the door, and maybe either a fake window, or a window the can be opened from the inside might break up the expanse the door seems to make?

A ships port hole window would look tight IMO, could be blacked out, and just opened for looking out, or ventilation..

<į)))>{

Offline Ice Scratcher

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #73 on: Dec 11, 2018, 11:15 PM »
Awesome build by the way!!!

<į)))>{

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #74 on: Dec 11, 2018, 11:24 PM »
I think painting the door, and maybe either a fake window, or a window the can be opened from the inside might break up the expanse the door seems to make?

A ships port hole window would look tight IMO, could be blacked out, and just opened for looking out, or ventilation..

<į)))>{

Yeah the door definitely seems big. I had considered clapping two pieces of plexi on both sides to make a window in the door.

I also have a buddy whoís dad is a window salesman and said he can get me more windows for free. So eventually those will get added too and should help break up the wall.

Thank you for complementing the build btw. If you follow the thread from the beginning Iíve kinda been all over with this build and couldnít make up my mind. That kinda threw people off my thread I think. But Iíve been trying to stick with it and document it all.

This shack is supposed to just to get me by until I can afford to build a wheel house. But when rings and kids arenít in the so distant future, I may have this one for longer than expected too.

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #75 on: Dec 13, 2018, 07:13 PM »
Well Iíve been working on it here and there this week. Turns out just mounting the door handles and lock and spring is a major pain (when did they stop selling standard light springs)?

Also when I made the original trusses for the 7í shack I didnít cut them down for the 6í shack and left the 6Ē eave. Turns out thatís a great spot for a front porch light!



Here is the floor plan I wound up with. Turns out there is no good way to sheet a 6x6 floor with 4x8 sheets. Haha. Hole covers hinge up and are made with 5/8 ply cut offs from the roof. Rest of the floor is 3/8 that I had laying around. I was hesitant that it was too thin but once I screwed it down it firmed right up. Itíll work for now anyway. Was also 6Ē short to get to the hole covers so just picked up a pine board to fill the gap. Oh well. Looks stupid but itís a $3 fix instead of 2 sheets of 5/8 to do it right.

Still canít decide where to put the heater yet. Thinking this is the most out of the way






Offline metalbender

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #76 on: Dec 14, 2018, 08:14 AM »
When I installed my heater, I put it through the wall. Just the grill, about 1 1/2 inch protrusion into the shack   A simple box covers the heater body on the outside. Sure beats the buddy on the floor. Nice build so far.

Offline metalbender

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #77 on: Dec 14, 2018, 08:23 AM »
While Iím rambling, when installing windows, keep them fairly small and put them at eye level when seated. That way you donít have to constantly get up to check tip ups


Offline Sandcountrylivin

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #78 on: Dec 14, 2018, 11:10 AM »
100% agree with a bump out for the heater!

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #79 on: Dec 14, 2018, 12:07 PM »
Honestly until you mentioned it I completely forgot about the possibility to do a bump out. Usually I think about that for bigger stoves and stuff like that. It would work just as well though in this situation! Iíll have to see what I can come up with. Plus itíll make insulating that much easier for behind the heater (non existent now).

Offline Gunflint

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #80 on: Dec 14, 2018, 12:17 PM »
The bump is great idea. I was concerned about fishing line brushing up against heater.
Veritas Odium Parit

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #81 on: Dec 14, 2018, 01:05 PM »
Yeah I was concerned with that too. Just wasnít sure if itís better to have it behind you and take up your back rest space. If itís up there it would likely just be a deadstick/ rattle reel hole anyway was my logic.

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #82 on: Dec 14, 2018, 09:28 PM »
Well I spent tonight trying to figure out the heater. I love the idea of a bump out but at this point in the game I just donít have time to figure out how I want to do it. I sat at menards for like 2 hours trying to come up with what flashing and what trims Iíll need. I can revisit it next year as Iím no better off now than then to do it.

So then I wasted a bunch of time trying to figure how to do it even as is. Turns out chimney pipe parts are quite expensive. The right stuff for the job was absurd so I pieced it together with cheapo parts.


Got it to burn though! Gosh im definitely gonna need to insulate well. She doesnít throw the most heat and definitely doesnít warm up the quickest as is (uninsulated).

On the plus side. The chimney works well as an outdoor hand warmer!

Does anybody know if these heater valves are rebuildable? This one is quite stiff and leaks gas if not 100% perfectly set

Offline metalbender

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #83 on: Dec 14, 2018, 09:56 PM »
If you have 10k input, prob have 7k btu out of the heater. Def have to insulate. I installed i small computer fan in the bottom of mine to help distribute the heat somewhat. Also have a small fan at the ceiling , angled down to push the heat towards the floor. I've got 1" foil backed rigid foam insulation. The 8x7 gets comfy in about 15 minutes.

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #84 on: Dec 14, 2018, 10:55 PM »
So 30% efficiency? I guess that feels about accurate given how hot that chimney is.

But okay I guess thatís something to shoot for. Warm in 15-20 minutes. I didnít really know what a realistic goal was. Gonna box in the heater tomorrow and start to insulate.

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #85 on: Dec 15, 2018, 12:10 PM »
So I found a used gas valve on eBay that I think may work. Would be around $110 for the whole system including gas valve, pilot, thermopile and thermocouple.

It is an adjustable fireplace style valve so Iím hoping I would be able to turn the valve down enough to make it work properly on my heater.

Iím just assuming I can custom fab the pilot assembly into my heater and it should work then, right? Iím not missing anything am I?

This valve would be extra cool because it is set up for an independent wall thermostat.

Otherwise I guess Iím still back to if anybody knows how to rebuild these gas valves (or if theyíre even rebuildable)?

Offline metalbender

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #86 on: Dec 15, 2018, 01:37 PM »
That fireplace valve might be for natural gas. Different orifice size from propane.  Also check the btu rating. a fireplace might be in the 40k btu range, making the orifice size way too big dor your little heater. My opinion , keep looking. You could try a little wd40 on the control knob shaft.

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #87 on: Dec 15, 2018, 09:06 PM »
Well today I started at insulating the shack. Fired up the heater too and with having that and the lantern running the shack heated up quite nicely.

Was able to use up the roadside pick up 1Ē blue foam on the ceiling and most of 1 wall. This cold weather thing isnít helping me glue anything though thatís for sure. May have to pick up some of that low temp glue.

It definitely holds heat better now though with the roof and overhangs sealed up better.

Iím really not sure what I wanna do with this gas valve. I found if you just use a channel locks you can operate the valve just fine. The main thing that concerns me though is the nob is fairly loose and if you jiggle it, you can hear/smell it leak. Donít want it to spring a leak while sleeping or something. It just feels like an o ring is missing or something.

And you are right metalbender. Thereís a ton of variables that would make this gas valve swap not work.

I may just have to ditch this heater and eat the $60 I have in it. A better used heater may be a better option. A new one just isnít in the cards right now.

Spray foam got a little messy on me.



CO detector went in today too as long as Iím messing with these heaters.

Offline XN

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #88 on: Dec 17, 2018, 09:18 AM »
Call this place: Mikes LP (651) 770-9448. They are buy me and great when it comes to RV furnace stuff.

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #89 on: Dec 17, 2018, 12:09 PM »
Call this place: Mikes LP (651) 770-9448. They are buy me and great when it comes to RV furnace stuff.

I will try them! I throught about trying an HVAC board but they all have big disclaimers that no DIY projects will be commented on. Whether itís liability or just keeping the tradesman busy who knows

 



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