Author Topic: Sleeper Shack Build  (Read 10360 times)

Offline XN

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #30 on: Nov 01, 2018, 07:29 AM »
that frame was busted long before you got it. That said I wouldn't build anything until you got that fixed properly by having a patch welded on it.

Offline XN

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #31 on: Nov 01, 2018, 07:32 AM »
On a better note. I got some work started on the shack! Bolted treated 2x4ís to the frame to act as a base for the walls. Will be putting pillars up in each corner of the trailer so these boards wonít be holding any of the snow load. Just the weight of the walls. (Think mushroom style shack). Braced each corner with 1/4Ē corner brackets and bolts too to sturdy it up. The front V is laid down just as an example of my idea. 







That looks like green treat lumber you used. FYI green treat lumber corrodes aluminum at a pretty fast rate. If your set on using green treat make sure you isolate the two materials from touching.

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #32 on: Nov 01, 2018, 08:21 AM »
Do you think just bolting it back to the frame would be adequate (if I donít haul the wheeler in it)? I hate to admit it but I know youíre right. Just not sure how much aluminum welding would run? Should I push for tig? Iíve heard some people run mig on aluminum.

And I didnít realize those two didnít mix. Well thatís what forums are for! I just wanted treated for the exposed pieces to avoid rot. Would Doug fir be better or something like that? Or just donít worry about it. Just a good thing I didnít get too far I suppose.

Cut trusses last night by cutting pitch into 2x6ís.

Offline XN

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #33 on: Nov 01, 2018, 01:12 PM »
That cross support looks like it was repaired once before. No I would not try and bolt it. I would think Mig should be fine if the person knows how to weld aluminum.

As for the lumber I get why you chose green and don't disagree no need to replace just isolate. You can put almost anything between provided its non conductive and won't absorb moisture. You could use sill plate foam or heck even a heavy duty packing tape. White oak would be another good choice but its expensive for what your doing.

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #34 on: Nov 01, 2018, 02:02 PM »
Iím impressed at how much you picked up out of that little picture. Yes I was concerned that it had been repaired once before. The passenger side of the trailer has a 3/16 flat stock welded above this channel stock brace. Drivers side is only the channel stock welded to each piece the long way. The brace appears to be split in the middle and welded there. I couldnít for the life of me figure out why theyíd use a split brace like that. But if it cracked once already and say they lost that flat stock, it makes more sense now.

I am considering having this one welded back on as well as bolted but then getting a whole nother full width brace welded on near this to help with rigidity long term. Starting to wonder if I should just dump this thing and find a different one. It is clearly just built very light and I donít want a problem child.

And I think Iíll replace this board. Itís only a 20 minute change out at this point and to piece of mind and $10 of lumber I think itís worth it. 


Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #35 on: Nov 01, 2018, 10:51 PM »
Well.... back to the drawing boards. Took the treated off quick to hopefully replace and said to heck with it. Flipped it up on its side to get a better look at the underside of the trailer.

Long story short... I will be selling this trailer. Thereís good reason I got it so cheap. Just gonna sell it for what I paid. Disclosing that itís a yard/brush trailer of course.

I found a welding shop that would do as much work as needed for $65 an hour but with the amount of cracked welds Iím just money ahead to get something else.

This will probably be a 10 page thread before I get this project to anything I can fish out of. Haha

Offline tbern

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #36 on: Nov 02, 2018, 05:32 AM »
As much as it sucks to have to start over and look for a different trailer, it's better you found out now that it had problems instead of later. Good luck with your pursuit of a different trailer and keep everyone up to date with your project!

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #37 on: Nov 02, 2018, 06:00 AM »
Yeah the more I look at it, Iím glad I wasnít further along when I did this. Then Iíd feel obligated to fix it. I have a ton of interest in it already. I guess people love the idea of a deal.

Just really thinking maybe I should look at steel a little closer. At least then I can paint it every so often and donít have to worry so much about it being brittle

Offline Sandcountrylivin

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Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #39 on: Nov 02, 2018, 11:51 AM »
Yeah I emailed the guy about that as soon as it posted. He never got back to me. Not sure what the deal is?

Offline Sandcountrylivin

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #40 on: Nov 02, 2018, 11:56 AM »
I made an inquiry the other day on a Craig's add and never got a response. I checked my spam folder and sure enough they had gotten back to me I just never received it in my inbox. Not saying you haven't checked it, I have certainly experienced the no response adds. But if you haven't looked in your spam folder it's worth a peek!

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #41 on: Nov 02, 2018, 10:46 PM »
Well you hit the nail on the head with that one. He responded the next day. Oops.

Also, sold the trailer today. Gosh Iíve never gotten that many inquiries on something before. Whoíd of guessed thereíd be that much interest in a cheap trailer that was even said needed work? Only lost $20 on the deal. Couldíve made my money back but was sick of dealing with people.

Well time to think up a better idea. Iím back to either a skid house on my tilt trailer or a new trailer frame to build off of. Starting to think maybe Miltona blacksmith isnít the worst deal. Might as well save up and spend the extra ~$500 for a crank down and get something that is everything that you want

Offline metalbender

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #42 on: Nov 02, 2018, 11:20 PM »
Skid house on the tilt trailer. Gets you a lot closer to the ice, less wind to block under, easiee to land fish. I put long dowels under mine for on the trailer. Makes it so easy to load and unload. Little cheap electric winch, no effort.

Offline metalbender

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #43 on: Nov 02, 2018, 11:24 PM »
As a side note, just installed an old Hydro Flame vented camper furnace. No more tripping over the Buddy heater or getting too close with the line.

Offline jpohlic

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #44 on: Nov 03, 2018, 07:38 AM »
What is your budget?

Last year I built a 7x8 that can seat up to 5 on bench seats (or 6 if there was no wood stove), has a fold down bed that sleeps 2 and a fold down table for cooking, eating, playing cards etc. It was designed to use the minimum amount of material possible to keep it lightweight while still being structurally sound. Fully insulated with R6 rigid insulation the total cost was about $700 CDN (about $500 for just the lumber and plywood, screws and glue). It fits on just about any trailer or is easy to winch in the back of a full size truck box.

I use the cylinder stove from my wall tent and light a bit of cedar kindling and burn Canawick pressed wood logs that, with the stove fully dampened down, have close to an 8 hour burn time so I can sleep through the night. None of the hassle of spitting wood, the only issue was about 1/4" creosote buildup after 6 weekends and a few day trips. No problems keeping warm in temps down to -25C, in fact there were a few nights we slept on top of our sleeping bags.

Check out my build here https://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=348765.0


Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #45 on: Nov 03, 2018, 12:07 PM »
Your build was one I read through researching my build. Looks like a nice shack! The build I started was going to be an 8x7 as well with pretty similar layout.

With my budget Iím just really not sure what to do. Iíd really love a crankdown wheelhouse longterm, but canít afford one till next year at the earliest and if I want a nice one, probably two years. So Iím just not sure if I keep running portables until I can do it right is a better option at this point. As of right now Iím trying to stay under $1k probably.

Been trying to source things through ReStore and marketplace now and seeing where that takes me.


Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #46 on: Nov 03, 2018, 09:33 PM »
Well I took home the heater from that Craigslist post. $60 for a direct vent 10k btu heater i thought was pretty good. Thermocouple and everything works. Just had to pick up a hose and some fittings. Itís pretty old but hopefully trusty.

So whatís the idea behind propane regulators? I know my buddy runs a line straight off the 20lb to his buddy heater. The line I bought to run this has a low pressure regulator. Not sure if it makes a difference?

Burns good!


Offline XN

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #47 on: Nov 05, 2018, 09:49 AM »
Buddy heaters have a built in regulator. Just buy a hose and regulator for a gas grill. There under 20 bucks at most places. Good choice starting with a different trailer. Like the old saying goes you have to build your house on a good foundation...

You can't really go wrong with the Miltona frames. I'm very happy with mine and have no problem recommending them.

Here's an idea for you to get buy. Get the miltona frame, put down a good flooring, and build a simple 2x2 frame and wrap it in boat wrap for the year until you can afford to build what you want. That way you have a great foundation that can haul your wheeler...

I also have 5 used catch covers I'd sell for cheap if you ever get to St. Paul area.

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #48 on: Nov 06, 2018, 12:03 PM »
Well if I ever get something going then I might take you up on the catch covers. How long is the turn around on miltona frames? Are they painted or what kind of rust proofing does he have?

Also, are there any threads on how people are venting these direct vent heaters? Mine has a air in/exhaust out the back so it is for a through wall type vent. It is a 3Ē inside and 5 or 6Ē outside pipe. All the exhaust caps Iíve seen so far for the in/out are quite pricey. Does it need to be elbowed up at all to make a chimney effect? I know some units require a vertical run but I donít have any literature with this one.

Offline XN

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #49 on: Nov 06, 2018, 12:24 PM »
It all depends on how busy he is. He was 4 weeks out when I got my frame. Its best to call him. His frames come in raw steel. He has a local guy that will paint it for some extra $. I chose to have mine hot dipped galvanized.

Direct vent heaters normally have a straight thru wall vent. No Chimney on the new direct vent ones.

Offline Sandcountrylivin

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #50 on: Nov 06, 2018, 12:52 PM »
I have no concept of what a frame should cost, nor do I vouch for the make of this brand as I have no experience with any type of crank down but I figured I would pass this along i case you haven't seen it.

https://appleton.craigslist.org/tro/d/64x12-ice-fishing-house-crank/6713698478.html

Offline metalbender

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #51 on: Nov 06, 2018, 06:28 PM »
The heater just needs a short vent. Needs to be shielded from wind gusts. Large pipe is combustion air intake, small one is exhaust. Just finished the installation of a similar heater on my shack. I'm using a ten lb tank in a rack mounted on the back. My build is posted as Lightweight 8x7, similar to jpohlic build. I did a welded aluminum tube frame.

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #52 on: Nov 06, 2018, 07:14 PM »
It all depends on how busy he is. He was 4 weeks out when I got my frame. Its best to call him. His frames come in raw steel. He has a local guy that will paint it for some extra $. I chose to have mine hot dipped galvanized

Iím thinking galvanized is for sure the way to go. Do you recall how much it was to have done? Is there many shops that can do this or is there a specialty shop?

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #53 on: Nov 06, 2018, 07:18 PM »
The heater just needs a short vent. Needs to be shielded from wind gusts. Large pipe is combustion air intake, small one is exhaust. Just finished the installation of a similar heater on my shack. I'm using a ten lb tank in a rack mounted on the back.

Most of the cheaper caps Iíve seen are for only exhaust pipes (wood stove). The dual intake and exhaust ones are kinda spendy. Is there any kind of magic to this system or can I run a traditional (cheap) single stack and leave the intake open/screened to outside air?

Offline metalbender

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #54 on: Nov 06, 2018, 08:07 PM »
Best advice would be to visit an rv place, see some older campers, check the design of the heater vents and improvise. Post a pic of the business end of the heater. I boxed the outside portion of mine with some aluminum, sticks out about seven inches. The vent comes off the side off this model.

Offline XN

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #55 on: Nov 07, 2018, 06:43 AM »
Most of the cheaper caps Iíve seen are for only exhaust pipes (wood stove). The dual intake and exhaust ones are kinda spendy. Is there any kind of magic to this system or can I run a traditional (cheap) single stack and leave the intake open/screened to outside air?

I have a RV heater guy that works on pretty much any heater than a normal house furnace and he said most of the direct vent heaters he sees that people have issues with is them not following the MFG's guidelines on stack length in turn most have draft issues.
Iím thinking galvanized is for sure the way to go. Do you recall how much it was to have done? Is there many shops that can do this or is there a specialty shop?

Its pretty specialized there's only one company in MN that I know of and its AZZ galvanize. They charge per 100 lbs of whats being plated and have a minimum charge (think it was 4 or 500lbs) so if you know someone else that you can go in with it will drop your costs. Mine was around $400 to galvanize (8x16 + a ramp door) with the size your talking about i doubt you would be over the min fee. FYI if you plan to go this route be sure and tell your frame builder. Each tube has to be vented or they will not coat it because tubing can explode when they put it in the 800* bath of galvanize. Miltona blacksmith knows what to do you just have to tell them that your going to galvanize.

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #56 on: Nov 08, 2018, 07:43 PM »
Thatís definitely good to know about galvanizing. I think thatís probably the best bet overall for the a steel frame.

Are there any other frame manufacturors out there like miltona to compare to?

Took a trip up to the cabin today. Scored 2 sheets worth of foam 1Ē insulation off the side of the road. Also got some rubber from my dad hopefully for a roof. Iím not really sure what it is? Anyone with any input would help. Itís a 9x10 sheet thatís very heavy, probably 1/8 thick and has nylon in it. Markings say EPPR. Is this roofing or would it work for roofing?





Offline XN

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #57 on: Nov 09, 2018, 10:01 AM »
There are plenty of frame builders but most all of them are more expensive than Miltona...



http://www.tebben.us/product.php?Single-Axle-Crank-Up-Ice-House-Frame-29

https://www.cwweld.net/fish-house-frames

This is one of my favorite frame builders. http://www.gstrailers.com/trailers.html

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #58 on: Dec 03, 2018, 08:31 PM »
Well time to drag this thread up from the grave. Iíve been shopping for a trailer for a long while for cheap and cannot decide on anything. Figured I was just gonna wait another year and save up but after fishing this weekend and doing really well I just had the itch. I have to do something.

So I went back to the drawing boards and figured out how to be a minimalist to do something for cheap. Settled on a 6x6 shack. Will be steel sides and rubber roof. Only doing one window for now to keep costs down and only insulating roof with the foam I already have to begin with.



Made the base out of the treated frame I already had built. Bolted on 2x8ís as runners. Set the runners 1 1/2Ē down on the frame so that I can fasten the steel siding and use the runner as the bottom trim for that. Will spray foam any gaps. Set floor joists at 18Ē because 24 was too wide and 16 didnít add up even in a 6í shack. There are eye bolts on all 4 corners running through the reinforced 1/4Ē corner bracing. Have heard bad things about running treated as runners so I used standard stud material and made them replaceable.





Moved on to framing. It is kind of a spin on post framing technique. 2x4 corner posts and 2x2 purlins with an extra 2x2 post in the middle. Rafters are cut down 2x6ís 2í oc and will be sheeted 5/8 cdx with epdm over top.

Thatís a rap on day ones progress. Decided to downsize because 80% of the time it will be just me and 99% of the time it will be just me and her.


Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #59 on: Dec 03, 2018, 08:40 PM »
Came out of the day with a few questions though.

Since itís cold what kind of adhesive would work still for the roof. I picked up a few tubes of spirit based glue that is good to - temps. Just wish there were a contact cement that worked below 40 degrees.

Could also just skip gluing completely and redo it right next summer?

Also how bad do you think the steel siding will frost up with zero insulation on it? I planned to add it later when money wasnít as tight but will it be manageable for the time being? I will be using the vented heater so that should help.

 



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