Author Topic: Sleeper Shack Build  (Read 8534 times)

Offline WalleyeBird

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Sleeper Shack Build
« on: Oct 23, 2018, 06:13 PM »
Hello All,

I am new to IceShanty and am making my first post here. I've been lurking a lot trying to come up with the best ideas for how to build my ice shack. As an intro, I am from Central Wisconsin and am looking to build a sleeper shack. I like to go up to LOTW, Mille Lacs, etc. So 8-10HR rides would be common for this shack. Therefore it needs to be as light/trailerable as possible.

I have a 8 1/2 by 10 Tilt bed snowmobile trailer that I am thinking of using as the tow method. Am aiming at a 8x7 plus 3' v-nose to help with windage. Probably 6' interior height. I would like to make it fishable for 4 people and sleep at least 2 if not 4 (with bunks). Does this size seem big enough?

For construction:
Walls will be  2x2 studs 16" OC and 1/2" rigid insulation clapped under Steel siding. Is it worth upgrading to 1" foam on the walls? Price difference is negligible, but I think I'm going to lose rigidity having the sheeting so far away from the studs. Is clapping a bad idea in general? I just didnt want to mess with cutting and sealing foam between studs (plus thermal bridging).

Roof I am leaning towards flat EPDM over 1/2" Chip on 2x4's 16 OC. I am thinking doing rubber will help with windage over a steel roof because of the needed pitch (added height) with steel. I am also thinking steel has no "great" way of sealing the edges for when you do that much highway travel. Only drawback of rubber is that it will likely be heavier (+sticky snow). Would then be insulating ceiling with R11 and sheeting ceiling with 1/4" chip.

For a floor I am thinking 1/2" Treated Ply over 2x4's 16 OC. Is it worth trying to insulate the floor? Especially with holes cut out of it for fishing?

I know most recommend 2x12 skids, but would it be easier to just trailer all the way out and slide it off once arrived? If it's not "skidding" that much, 2x8 or even 2x6 should be adequate?

Then comes my biggest dilemma, how to heat it? Endgame is a direct vent wall furnace. Just not sure I can double the price of my shack for that feature quite yet. I do not have a great source of wood and being a sleeper, I would like the convenience of not stoking a wood stove all the time either. Could do Vent free gas, but I hate to do all that insulation and wind up needing vents/windows open all the time anyway (plus safety while sleeping). So I'm left with Gas powered (wood type) stove. Found them cheap enough through NuWay and those seem to be my best idea so far. Just afraid of how much gas these will burn with 1/2 the heat going out the pipe. Anybody have any experience with these? Stove would likely be in the V-Nose.

Is it foolish to think I could build a barn door on the back and haul the ATV inside the shack, while trailering? Just thinking it would be nice to keep it out of the elements during transport. Only issue I see is safely securing it along with overall trailer capacity.

Please, Any advice would be appreciated. Is it too big to trailer? Gonna need to be sturdier? Am I over my head? Haha. I'm trying to go into this as informed as I can.


Offline esox_xtm

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #1 on: Oct 23, 2018, 07:35 PM »
First WB, welcome to the Shanty! There's plenty of good folks here with a wealth of experience and opinions. Please visit your profile and add your location to it, Central WI is fine, just so everyone knows where you're at. Sometimes your geography has a bearing on answers.
 
I'm only going to comment on a couple of things: heat - whatever you choose vent it. Life's too short to risk not staying on the "fun side". Current opinions for sleepers seem to lean toward an LP fueled forced air deal (think RV). Sometimes you can find a junker camper you can scavenge usable items from.

Your "barn door" idea is one my previous co-worker had except his folded down and doubled as the ramp. I liked it...

Last thing. Maybe choose to go a little bigger than you think. I promise you will not be disappointed. If you build small you will most likely reach a point where you wish...  ::) I've been pondering short term storage and an impending move to Three Lakes WI. My brain has me shopping for a 7 - 8 x 16 enclosed. By the time I pay for offsite storage and moving costs I'll own the trailer. Maaaybe it'll become a sleeper. Time will tell.

BTW, LBDN is a great ice fishing destination that begs for a sleeper and is much closer than MN. Just throwin' it out there.

Good luck!

To fish or not to fish? That's a stupid question!




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Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #2 on: Oct 23, 2018, 08:07 PM »
Thanks for the welcome! I am in the Wausau area actually. I've been around many forums before, just finally starting to get serious about ice fishing again!

 I've considered a junker camper furnace but am trying to stay away from required power. I have heard mixed reviews about battery life and I don't own a generator to recharge. That likely will change eventually, but I don't want to plan on it.

I know going bigger is definitely preferred, but I'm kind of limited by my trailer size (I already own the trailer). I have considered doing like you said, converting a 7x16 to a sleeper. But for long term I'd like an all Aluminum one, and those are SPENDY.

And I know LBDN is definitely closer. I've been meaning to head that way, but a lot of my buddies are from the western half of the state and its closer to to MN. Have definitely been not so impressed the last few years with LOTW so we're gonna try something different for sure. Just also don't have much of an idea on where to even start there.


Offline XN

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #3 on: Oct 25, 2018, 11:39 AM »
Hello All,

I am new to IceShanty and am making my first post here. I've been lurking a lot trying to come up with the best ideas for how to build my ice shack. As an intro, I am from Central Wisconsin and am looking to build a sleeper shack. I like to go up to LOTW, Mille Lacs, etc. So 8-10HR rides would be common for this shack. Therefore it needs to be as light/trailerable as possible.

I have a 8 1/2 by 10 Tilt bed snowmobile trailer that I am thinking of using as the tow method. Am aiming at a 8x7 plus 3' v-nose to help with windage. Probably 6' interior height. I would like to make it fishable for 4 people and sleep at least 2 if not 4 (with bunks). Does this size seem big enough?

For construction:
Walls will be  2x2 studs 16" OC and 1/2" rigid insulation clapped under Steel siding. Is it worth upgrading to 1" foam on the walls? Price difference is negligible, but I think I'm going to lose rigidity having the sheeting so far away from the studs. Is clapping a bad idea in general? I just didnt want to mess with cutting and sealing foam between studs (plus thermal bridging).

Roof I am leaning towards flat EPDM over 1/2" Chip on 2x4's 16 OC. I am thinking doing rubber will help with windage over a steel roof because of the needed pitch (added height) with steel. I am also thinking steel has no "great" way of sealing the edges for when you do that much highway travel. Only drawback of rubber is that it will likely be heavier (+sticky snow). Would then be insulating ceiling with R11 and sheeting ceiling with 1/4" chip.

For a floor I am thinking 1/2" Treated Ply over 2x4's 16 OC. Is it worth trying to insulate the floor? Especially with holes cut out of it for fishing?

I know most recommend 2x12 skids, but would it be easier to just trailer all the way out and slide it off once arrived? If it's not "skidding" that much, 2x8 or even 2x6 should be adequate?

Then comes my biggest dilemma, how to heat it? Endgame is a direct vent wall furnace. Just not sure I can double the price of my shack for that feature quite yet. I do not have a great source of wood and being a sleeper, I would like the convenience of not stoking a wood stove all the time either. Could do Vent free gas, but I hate to do all that insulation and wind up needing vents/windows open all the time anyway (plus safety while sleeping). So I'm left with Gas powered (wood type) stove. Found them cheap enough through NuWay and those seem to be my best idea so far. Just afraid of how much gas these will burn with 1/2 the heat going out the pipe. Anybody have any experience with these? Stove would likely be in the V-Nose.

Is it foolish to think I could build a barn door on the back and haul the ATV inside the shack, while trailering? Just thinking it would be nice to keep it out of the elements during transport. Only issue I see is safely securing it along with overall trailer capacity.

Please, Any advice would be appreciated. Is it too big to trailer? Gonna need to be sturdier? Am I over my head? Haha. I'm trying to go into this as informed as I can.

Being Light weight can cost $ or other design considerations. I've been working on a 6x10 wheel house in my head for a while. My goal is sub 1000 lbs.

For framing I would suggest you go 2x3 with 24" OC spacing. My current wheel house I used 2x3 16OC and it was really over kill. For insulation you really don't want to cheap here. Spray foam would be best because you would not believe the strength you get from it! If not go at least 1.5" pink foam & cut it 1" shorter than the cavity and great stuff around the outside. It will add some strength and will be nice and warm.

2x4's should work ok for 6' shack but I would put a center skid down if you go 8' wide.

for flooring if you plan to put an atv in it than I would not go 1/2 do 3/4"

Yes insulate the floor if you want to take off your shoes. it makes a big difference! My son is barefoot most times in our shack  ::)

for roofing I use 2x4 16" OC, 3/8 cdx ply, with rubber roof and then its spray foamed I would do this again. But put some pitch to it even if its only an inch or 2 of slope. Flat roofs suck and will always leak over time.

Don't skimp on a heater. Your life isn't worth saving a couple hundred bucks, get a vented heater! They make ones that don't use power like empire https://www.amazon.com/HouseWarmer-Slim-Profile-Direct-Heater-Blower/dp/B00PX1H338/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1540485524&sr=8-14&keywords=vented+propane+heater

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #4 on: Oct 25, 2018, 12:00 PM »
I definitely can see the merit to 2x3ís at 24oc. I absolutely hate working with 2x2ís anyway so I think Iíll definitely go that way.

I love the spray foam idea. But Iím just not sure the price point is gonna be there. Havenít done any actual shopping around though.

I definitely see what you mean about the third skid for 8í wide. Is that the norm? For hauling the atv itís probably a good idea anyway. But is it hard to get off the ice then? Obviously you wouldnít be able to chisel it out from the side then if needed.

Those heaters are exactly what I dream of having. Now Iím just kinda keeping my eye out for a used one maybe. Do they come up often?

The more I think about this project and the more I see, I donít think itís gonna be big enough. To fish 8 holes plus having a heater just doesnít add up. Iím thinking Iíd have to go the full 8x10 trailer to have room and Iím not sure that will trailer well. Might just have to look at some other options.

Offline Sandcountrylivin

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #5 on: Oct 25, 2018, 12:30 PM »
I don't know what you all use your 8x10 trailer for but if it were me I would sell the snowmobile trailer and scratch up the cash for a used enclosed trailer. There are so many advantages, such as starting at the lake you don't have the load unload time. Especially if you plan on strapping the wheeler down inside of the shack you have to strap down after winching the shack on. Also the enclosed trailer can be camped in the off season, or used as a storage unit keeping your wheeler and gear out of the elements. I don't know what a used enclosed can be had for but I will say that when I built a big sleeper shack out of a pop up camper I had nearly $1500 in materials and all the time to build. I love that shack but sure wish it trailered down the road like an enclosed would.

Offline metalbender

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #6 on: Oct 25, 2018, 01:11 PM »
12 to 15k btu vented furnaces can be had for pretty cheap.Commonly used in truck campers and hard top tent trailers. No power required, but being a sleeper you'll probably have a battery on board. A computer fan will move a decent amount of air with very little current draw.

Offline mvanhank222

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #7 on: Oct 25, 2018, 01:48 PM »
NU way propane stoves are pretty affordable direct vent options

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #8 on: Oct 25, 2018, 06:31 PM »
I don't know what you all use your 8x10 trailer for but if it were me I would sell the snowmobile trailer and scratch up the cash for a used enclosed trailer. There are so many advantages, such as starting at the lake you don't have the load unload time. Especially if you plan on strapping the wheeler down inside of the shack you have to strap down after winching the shack on. Also the enclosed trailer can be camped in the off season, or used as a storage unit keeping your wheeler and gear out of the elements. I don't know what a used enclosed can be had for but I will say that when I built a big sleeper shack out of a pop up camper I had nearly $1500 in materials and all the time to build. I love that shack but sure wish it trailered down the road like an enclosed would.

Yeah I think you may be on to what I really should wind up doing. I have been trying to put up an estimate for what it will cost and all in Iím over a thousand for sure. Sell the trailer for $800 and youíre halfway there anyway. We donít currently use the trailer for anything an enclosed wouldnít also work for. Iím just concerned that I wonít be happy with the height of an enclosed trailer? Iíd like to jig out of the shack.

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #9 on: Oct 25, 2018, 06:33 PM »
NU way propane stoves are pretty affordable direct vent options

These are exactly what I was considering if I couldnít find a good used empire. Just havenít heard any reviews on them. Are they efficient? Easy to control temp wise? Just worried about gas consumption mainly.

Offline Sandcountrylivin

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #10 on: Oct 25, 2018, 08:02 PM »
I'm not really familiar with the standard height of an enclosed, most I've been in mattered at the back  door where some I have to duck my head and some I can walk in confidently. Once inside standing hasn't been a problem. Although I've certainly seen smaller versions I wouldn't be able to stand in. Around here these trailer shacks are getting very popular. All you need is a saw and some pvc or pail slides to be fishable. From there at your convenience the sky is the limit as far as pimping it out goes. And the fishing is super run and gun if you will. Pack the shack with your essentials for an over nighter. Snacks, brews, bait, bedding, auger, tackle, etc. ( find a receiver for your hitch that keeps the shack level) leave the truck hooked up. Head to a spot, drill from inside the shack. If there is nothing there, pull your slides and pull to the next spot. No packing up, re arranging, just pull the slides and ride.

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #11 on: Oct 25, 2018, 09:33 PM »
I'm not really familiar with the standard height of an enclosed, most I've been in mattered at the back  door where some I have to duck my head and some I can walk in confidently. Once inside standing hasn't been a problem. Although I've certainly seen smaller versions I wouldn't be able to stand in. Around here these trailer shacks are getting very popular. All you need is a saw and some pvc or pail slides to be fishable. From there at your convenience the sky is the limit as far as pimping it out goes. And the fishing is super run and gun if you will. Pack the shack with your essentials for an over nighter. Snacks, brews, bait, bedding, auger, tackle, etc. ( find a receiver for your hitch that keeps the shack level) leave the truck hooked up. Head to a spot, drill from inside the shack. If there is nothing there, pull your slides and pull to the next spot. No packing up, re arranging, just pull the slides and ride.

Sorry I didnít specify. Height from the ice. Not sure how much clearance it is from the ice typically but I hate to get a trophy fish on and not be able to get it from the lake. I suppose you could cut a bigger, rectangle fishing hole and do a larger slides like maybe a cut out tote? Then at least you can slide the fish onto some space on the ice before trying to lift it 18Ē up a tight pail slide. I fish alone often enough so having someone else to grab the fish isnít always easy. 

The ability to stay hooked up and be able to run and gun is a huge plus though!

What size would be best for this kind of trailer setup? Single vs tandem? I like the idea of single because of less worry about bearings and tires etc. but on a single the biggest youíll get is a 7x12 or a 6x14 typically. Not sure if itís worth saving for a tandem 7x16 or bigger?

Offline Sandcountrylivin

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #12 on: Oct 25, 2018, 09:46 PM »
I like the tote idea! I would think with 6" to a foot of open ice around the hole a guy should be able to easily enough get a bent arm gill hold of his fish. I have 10" pvc and just gaff the walleyes I intend to keep, otherwise carefully grab the ones going back best I can. Whitebass, perch and most everything else gets hoisted up with no problem. There are a few guys with some kind of  modified scoop rigged up that as soon as the fish has come up from the bottom of the ice, they rotate the skimmer and it closes the bottom of the hole. I haven't put a lot of thought into it but it seems like a decent diy project.

Offline XN

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #13 on: Oct 26, 2018, 07:36 AM »
I definitely can see the merit to 2x3ís at 24oc. I absolutely hate working with 2x2ís anyway so I think Iíll definitely go that way.

I love the spray foam idea. But Iím just not sure the price point is gonna be there. Havenít done any actual shopping around though.

I definitely see what you mean about the third skid for 8í wide. Is that the norm? For hauling the atv itís probably a good idea anyway. But is it hard to get off the ice then? Obviously you wouldnít be able to chisel it out from the side then if needed.

Those heaters are exactly what I dream of having. Now Iím just kinda keeping my eye out for a used one maybe. Do they come up often?

The more I think about this project and the more I see, I donít think itís gonna be big enough. To fish 8 holes plus having a heater just doesnít add up. Iím thinking Iíd have to go the full 8x10 trailer to have room and Iím not sure that will trailer well. Might just have to look at some other options.

Not sure where your from or what stores they have around you but Menards has smaller spray foam kits just make sure whatever you buy or have done its closed cell foam so you don't have the foam sucking up moisture.
https://www.menards.com/main/paint/caulks-sealants/foam-rubberized-sealant/froth-pak-trade-200-foam-sealant-kit/346963/p-1444435970305-c-7937.htm?tid=-6827414169127705912&ipos=6

I've seen a few empires come and go used. If you want less expensive go the RV furnace route https://www.amazon.com/SUBURBAN-NT-16SEQ-MOTORHOME-NON-DUCTED-FURNACE/dp/B00T6KP9HY/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1540556813&sr=8-14&keywords=rv+furnace
As for consumption I can go about 48 hours on a 30 lb tank of propane in my 8x16 house @ -20*F At around 0 to +10 I can go 72-100 hours. That's with a 30K BTU furnace.

I've never had a Skid house so I can't speak specifically on using one. Honestly in your case I think a wheel house would suit your needs much better. I bought my Frame from this guy. http://www.miltonablacksmith.com/trailers.html  He's a great guy to deal with and builds a couple hundred frames a year I bet.

FYI standard height of an enclosed trailer is 6 foot, extended use to be and additional 6" but with all the UTV's hitting the market they may have revised that up to 7 or more feet being most utility UTV's won't fit under a 6' door. If your going to build folding bunk beds go with a 7' tall wall height. Its much easier to have a nice sitting height and still have a decent sized bed.

Offline thordoggydog

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #14 on: Oct 26, 2018, 09:19 AM »
I am running a 8.5 x 16 h and h enclosed trailer with v front as a wheel house.  Insulated floor walls and ceiling with pink foam board installed a 16000btu forced air heater and put 6 catch cover hole s down the center with drop tubes. Works great.

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #15 on: Oct 26, 2018, 06:11 PM »
I like the tote idea! I would think with 6" to a foot of open ice around the hole a guy should be able to easily enough get a bent arm gill hold of his fish. I have 10" pvc and just gaff the walleyes I intend to keep, otherwise carefully grab the ones going back best I can. Whitebass, perch and most everything else gets hoisted up with no problem. There are a few guys with some kind of  modified scoop rigged up that as soon as the fish has come up from the bottom of the ice, they rotate the skimmer and it closes the bottom of the hole. I haven't put a lot of thought into it but it seems like a decent diy project.

Scoop honestly never crossed my mind. Thatís a great idea! Until I get a big slot and itís below the scoop. Haha.

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #16 on: Oct 26, 2018, 06:26 PM »
Not sure where your from or what stores they have around you but Menards has smaller spray foam kits just make sure whatever you buy or have done its closed cell foam so you don't have the foam sucking up moisture.
https://www.menards.com/main/paint/caulks-sealants/foam-rubberized-sealant/froth-pak-trade-200-foam-sealant-kit/346963/p-1444435970305-c-7937.htm?tid=-6827414169127705912&ipos=6

I know spray would definitely be the best thing for this. Didnít realize open cell held water. Just hard to justify that kind of money.

I've seen a few empires come and go used. If you want less expensive go the RV furnace route https://www.amazon.com/SUBURBAN-NT-16SEQ-MOTORHOME-NON-DUCTED-FURNACE/dp/B00T6KP9HY/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1540556813&sr=8-14&keywords=rv+furnace
As for consumption I can go about 48 hours on a 30 lb tank of propane in my 8x16 house @ -20*F At around 0 to +10 I can go 72-100 hours. That's with a 30K BTU furnace.

Thank you for the real world gas consumption numbers. Now at least I have an idea what to expect. A forced air furnace might wind up being my answer. Iíll probably wind up with a generator by the time Iím done investing anyway so it might be easier to just go forced air.

I've never had a Skid house so I can't speak specifically on using one. Honestly in your case I think a wheel house would suit your needs much better. I bought my Frame from this guy. http://www.miltonablacksmith.com/trailers.html  He's a great guy to deal with and builds a couple hundred frames a year I bet.

Iíve seen his site. His drop down frames are surprisingly affordable. Just not sure about the long term reliability of a steel frame. Iím an aluminum kind of guy. If I were to buy an enclosed it would be aluminum. Just donít want to worry about painting it so often or worrying about it corroding away.

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #17 on: Oct 26, 2018, 06:28 PM »
I am running a 8.5 x 16 h and h enclosed trailer with v front as a wheel house.  Insulated floor walls and ceiling with pink foam board installed a 16000btu forced air heater and put 6 catch cover hole s down the center with drop tubes. Works great.

Heater about the right size? What thickness of foam? Ever wish it was a crank down? I definitely see the benefit of a rigid axle and a standard trailer.

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #18 on: Oct 28, 2018, 05:03 PM »


Well change of plans. I picked this up today for $275. Figured it was a good price for all aluminum. Itís not perfect and Iíd of hoped for a little bigger but I will make it work. It is a 4.5x8 deck.

I plan to make a house overtop the wheel wells on this. Would overlap the sides by 1í on each side making an overall 7í wide trailer. Also plan to make a v front as well. Going to put hatches down one side in the overhang for fishing. The other side overhang will have a double fold up couch/bed and counter/cabinet. Im thinking a double fold to allow the atv to still fit on the aluminum floor for transport. It will fish and sleep 2 (me and the mrs) hopefully comfortably. The main door will be the full width 4.5í wide to allow the atv to fit.

Also only going to build about 5í high so it will fit in a 7í door. Without worrying about bunks to fit people I donít think the shorter ceiling will be too much of an issue?

Going to start with a buddy heater and cracked windows until I can afford a wall furnace or nuway gas stove.

My biggest question is that it sits on 20.5x10 tires that could be replaced. Is it a bad idea to buy shorter/narrower 5.7x8ís to try and get closer to the ice?

Offline Fishermanmn

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #19 on: Oct 28, 2018, 07:11 PM »
This is what I've done out of snowmobile trailer although mine was not aluminum, i built it over the wheels like you plan to. I don't have pictures of it finished but thought the progress images would help. hope these pics will get your wheels turning. If you have any questions on specifics let me know. Also I mines a sleeper for cots and I plan to pull mine with the truck













Hook em
      &
Cook em

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #20 on: Oct 29, 2018, 11:58 AM »
This is what I've done out of snowmobile trailer although mine was not aluminum, i built it over the wheels like you plan to. I don't have pictures of it finished but thought the progress images would help. hope these pics will get your wheels turning. If you have any questions on specifics let me know. Also I mines a sleeper for cots and I plan to pull mine with the truck




Cool build! Know the weight of it? Anything youíd do differently?

My only question is what was the idea with the floor framing? Is it more rigid that way?

Offline XN

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #21 on: Oct 29, 2018, 01:18 PM »
Not sure where your from or what stores they have around you but Menards has smaller spray foam kits just make sure whatever you buy or have done its closed cell foam so you don't have the foam sucking up moisture.
https://www.menards.com/main/paint/caulks-sealants/foam-rubberized-sealant/froth-pak-trade-200-foam-sealant-kit/346963/p-1444435970305-c-7937.htm?tid=-6827414169127705912&ipos=6

I know spray would definitely be the best thing for this. Didnít realize open cell held water. Just hard to justify that kind of money.

I've seen a few empires come and go used. If you want less expensive go the RV furnace route https://www.amazon.com/SUBURBAN-NT-16SEQ-MOTORHOME-NON-DUCTED-FURNACE/dp/B00T6KP9HY/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1540556813&sr=8-14&keywords=rv+furnace
As for consumption I can go about 48 hours on a 30 lb tank of propane in my 8x16 house @ -20*F At around 0 to +10 I can go 72-100 hours. That's with a 30K BTU furnace.

Thank you for the real world gas consumption numbers. Now at least I have an idea what to expect. A forced air furnace might wind up being my answer. Iíll probably wind up with a generator by the time Iím done investing anyway so it might be easier to just go forced air.

I've never had a Skid house so I can't speak specifically on using one. Honestly in your case I think a wheel house would suit your needs much better. I bought my Frame from this guy. http://www.miltonablacksmith.com/trailers.html  He's a great guy to deal with and builds a couple hundred frames a year I bet.

Iíve seen his site. His drop down frames are surprisingly affordable. Just not sure about the long term reliability of a steel frame. Iím an aluminum kind of guy. If I were to buy an enclosed it would be aluminum. Just donít want to worry about painting it so often or worrying about it corroding away.
If you want it to last have it galvanized. its the only coating that coats inside and out side of the tubing. There's plenty of 60-80 year old fence post around to speak for what hot dip galvanize can do. I've also had Aluminum trailers but I'm a little gun shy of them on the ice. Everyone I've had has cracked at one place or another.

Offline XN

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #22 on: Oct 29, 2018, 01:20 PM »
(Image removed from quote.)

Well change of plans. I picked this up today for $275. Figured it was a good price for all aluminum. Itís not perfect and Iíd of hoped for a little bigger but I will make it work. It is a 4.5x8 deck.

I plan to make a house overtop the wheel wells on this. Would overlap the sides by 1í on each side making an overall 7í wide trailer. Also plan to make a v front as well. Going to put hatches down one side in the overhang for fishing. The other side overhang will have a double fold up couch/bed and counter/cabinet. Im thinking a double fold to allow the atv to still fit on the aluminum floor for transport. It will fish and sleep 2 (me and the mrs) hopefully comfortably. The main door will be the full width 4.5í wide to allow the atv to fit.

Also only going to build about 5í high so it will fit in a 7í door. Without worrying about bunks to fit people I donít think the shorter ceiling will be too much of an issue?

Going to start with a buddy heater and cracked windows until I can afford a wall furnace or nuway gas stove.

My biggest question is that it sits on 20.5x10 tires that could be replaced. Is it a bad idea to buy shorter/narrower 5.7x8ís to try and get closer to the ice?
I'd look at the weight capacity of the tire first!  As I said above your going to have a hard time making folding bunks in a 5' tall shack.

Offline Fishermanmn

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #23 on: Oct 29, 2018, 06:43 PM »
Cool build! Know the weight of it? Anything youíd do differently?

My only question is what was the idea with the floor framing? Is it more rigid that way?

I built
Hook em
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Cook em

Offline Fishermanmn

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #24 on: Oct 29, 2018, 06:45 PM »
Cool build! Know the weight of it? Anything youíd do differently?

My only question is what was the idea with the floor framing? Is it more rigid that way?

Yes and it's also treated wood to last longer and beefs up the trailer frame as well so yeah more structual and durable was what I was going for as well as something easier to build off of.

I built
Hook em
      &
Cook em

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #25 on: Oct 29, 2018, 10:21 PM »
I'd look at the weight capacity of the tire first!  As I said above your going to have a hard time making folding bunks in a 5' tall shack.

Yeah I think weíll see how these tires do and how I like it before I try to make it a low rider. And the more I played with a tape measure, a 5í ceiling is just not going to happen. I wanted to be able to back this thing in the shed for summer but itís probably not worth it. Itíll be built out of exterior materials anyhow so itíll be fine. Gonna go with 6 or 6í6Ē walls.

Offline XN

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #26 on: Oct 30, 2018, 07:26 AM »
That sounds like a good plan. FYI here's a good chart for trailer tires. I'd say your biggest problem will be weight capacity with wanting to put a wheeler inside.

https://www.etrailer.com/faq-trailer-tire-sizing-tables.aspx

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #27 on: Oct 30, 2018, 11:52 AM »
Thatís a handy chart! Good to know the overall heights too. I was looking awful stupid trying to compare heights with a tape measure the other day.

It currently has in load range Cís which are rated for 1100 a piece. I think I may be approaching that even. Assume a 900 pound wet weight wheeler and a 300 pound trailer. Iíve gotta keep the shack under 1000 lbs or so including the stove and propane just to make it. I may end up with a load range D 18.5Ēx8 but thatís probably my only other option.

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #28 on: Oct 31, 2018, 11:52 AM »



Started work this week. Figured out why many of you prefer steel construction for ice shacks. When I loaded my atv on it to take the trailer for a test ride I heard something clunk. Finally found the culprit. Piece of frame bracing broke almost completely off underneath the trailer. Oh gosh I hope this isnít a sign of whatís to come with this thing. Iím going to bolt this piece back to the frame and add some aluminum angle to reinforce around it.

After seeing this Iím really second guessing loading the Atv into it. That is just a lot of weight on a light frame like this. Plus it adds a lot of complexities to the construction. Probably just a better idea to ramp the atv into the truck after all.

Offline WalleyeBird

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Re: Sleeper Shack Build
« Reply #29 on: Oct 31, 2018, 11:58 AM »
On a better note. I got some work started on the shack! Bolted treated 2x4ís to the frame to act as a base for the walls. Will be putting pillars up in each corner of the trailer so these boards wonít be holding any of the snow load. Just the weight of the walls. (Think mushroom style shack). Braced each corner with 1/4Ē corner brackets and bolts too to sturdy it up. The front V is laid down just as an example of my idea. 








 



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