MyFishFinder.com Just like iceshanty but warmer
Called Ackerville Lawn and Garden in Slinger,Wisconsin last week. Thought I'd stop on Saturday to check out the Sled Dog.Guy told me that he was sold out of them.Said he wouldn't get any till fallAre they in that much demand?
By Studs, I hope you mean Ice Screws! It was a simple job but you have to raise the track an inch off the floor so you can roll the track to each of the cross paddles. I stuck a pipe through the track frame in the front and raised it up a few inches on 4 X 4 s. I used my floor jack in the rear on the sled hook and jacked it up after I removed the rear rubber flap. The entire process took about a half hour and I staggered the screws, 3 in one paddle, each side and the middle and then 2 in the next paddle either side of the middle. The dog will go just fine on ice without screw studs but if you want to pull a load they sure will make a world of difference. I believe that Snowdog does not recommend the real snowmobile stud bolt spikes for our tracks, just screws and the track has molded round spots where the screws go. A pack of 150-200 screws will leave you extras and you can use 1/2" or 3/4".Gam
I've seen some of the snowmobiles use a repeating V pattern, like a tractor tire tread. V V V V
I had my dog on glare ice with and without screws the way I showed my pattern. I guess I see it all from a different perspective. Without studs the dog went fine on glare ice but steering was pretty wonky and if the sled I stand in or those being pulled got a little sideways they could easily spin the entire works right out. After I put the screws in the dog drove straight and steered great and then I was trying to figure out how to keep the stuff behind me tracking straight. On some snow there is no issue with any of this but glare ice is problematic and the screws sure do work. I don't think I need any more but I would not want any less. YMMV so if you like just add a few at a time until it feels right for you. BTW, anyone who has run a snowmobile on glare ice knows and understands they need carbide runners up under the skis as well as spikes in the track to be stable and steer true.Gam
According to the Snow Dog reps, there's some sort of "kit" available for the actual SD sleds, my FD has the kit coming, will try and remember to get a pic of the kit and post it, along with manufacturers part number...
As far as keeping the stuff behind you tracking straight. Snow dog makes an accessory item called sled skates part #5500-9900-0001, and they bolt on the back of the bottom of the sled that you tow behind. I ordered these from my dealer because on glare ice , the sled does fishtail to the point of spinning out, and taking the snowdog in the front with it. If you look on the various snowdog videos and such, there is one that shows this very clearly. Snowdog donuts , I think the video is called.
I saw the sled skates on the SD site and wondered how well they might work. Wish you would post an actual picture of them and give us a review. I am a tinkerer in my shop and usually try to DIY simple stuff like this if I can. Nothing on the site stated they were made of Carbide that will last infinitely longer than regular steel and they just appear to be a U bolt style attachment that apparently goes on the Hyfax runners in the rear of the stand up sled. Would I also need them for additional sleds I often tow? I sure did have the conditions on glare ice where all the towed sleds behind the track sled were wagging the dog but just going slow made it manageable.Gam
I've put quite a few miles on the dog over the last week. Much of the travel has been on glare ice. If you tow a heavily loaded jet sled as the "caboose" most of the sway disappears. The lack of hyfax runners adds just enough resistance to stabilize things. Note that some sway remains -- it doesn't pull straight as an arrow.I will stud the track before next season. On Tuesday I towed a passenger and could feel the track struggling for traction.Yesterday was a real test for the machine. We were on the fringe of the nor'easter and received 12 - 14" of fluffy powder. Snow was still falling when I left the access. I confess I was a little underwhelmed by the performance. The track labored to gain traction and would break free if I applied too much throttle.After I caught enough smelt for bait, I picked up a buddy. With 600# in tow, traction was a real problem. We made it, but couldn't travel faster than a jogger's pace. Still beats walking!! The return was a different story. The snow settled over the morning and the dog came to life. Easily towed gear at 15 mph before dropping my buddy off. With 175# less in the rig, the last leg of the trip was a blast!I now believe that the standard frame has too much buoyancy. I am going to experiment adding ballast (I'll carry my deep cycle battery in the basket) tonight.Gam, I haven't forgotten about your pictures. Just too busy fishing right now. Once trout season ends on Thursday, I'll snap a few for you.
I'm trying to think what the buoyancy does. In what conditions would that be a detriment and when would it be an advantage? Would you get the compact model if you could change things?
Thank you all, especially Gam, for all this great info. Has anybody asked Snowdog to be a sponsor? It is a great product.
It is a strong locomotive capable of pulling a very substantial load out on flat ice which is exactly the purpose I bought it for.
I think this says it all. That is exactly why I bought mine.
Anyone use the stud ice screw brand "Grip Studs"on the Snowdogs ?