Author Topic: Cold blooded  (Read 3864 times)

Offline alekhunts

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Cold blooded
« on: Dec 15, 2013, 01:00 PM »
 :-\ well my Eskimo ice auger died soo I went and bought a new motor but it is for a post hole digger it bigger and faster but I have problems starting it when cold is there any tips or advice I can do so it starts Easier thanks in advance  :tipup:
I'm not brightest tool in the shed my ice auger is

Offline Ford4life

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Re: Cold blooded
« Reply #1 on: Dec 15, 2013, 06:06 PM »
I have an older Eskimo auger when I first get to my spot I start it and let idle for a few Minutes  to warm up on land before I go out on ice and have to wrestle with it then most of the day it will start with no real problems think it get pretty cold running down the road in the back of the pickup

Offline JimQ

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Re: Cold blooded
« Reply #2 on: Dec 16, 2013, 09:23 AM »
:-\ well my Eskimo ice auger died soo I went and bought a new motor but it is for a post hole digger it bigger and faster but I have problems starting it when cold is there any tips or advice I can do so it starts Easier thanks in advance  :tipup:

This is your lucky day.  I Just went through that exact same exercise.  Here's what I can tell you from first hand personal experience...

On Viper engines, the Purge Pump / Primer is setup differently on the Earth Auger (Standard) and Ice Auger (Winter) .

On the Standard Viper engine, the purge pump discharges fuel back into the fuel tank. 

On the Winter Viper engine, the purge pump discharge is directed into the throat of the carburetor.

What I did was pull the purge pump return line out of the tank and reroute it as shown.  I temporarily plugged the second hole in the fuel tank grommet until I can get one with a single hole.  Not sure how Eskimo routes them from the factory, but this is what I did.









Now, download a copy of a Mako manual and follow the starting instructions.  The choke has to be in the run position while priming so that the fuel gets into the carburetor.

Getting it to start in the cold is only your first battle.  The gear lube used in the gearcase of the earth auger turns nearly solid when cold.  I attempted to use mine at around 5 Deg F and it literally would not spin the auger.  Disassemble the gear case and remove all of the lubricant.  The only thing I found to cut the grease was a solvent like gasoline for the majority of it, then a final clean up with brake clean or something similar.  Regrease with White Lithium and reassemble.  Again, not sure what they leave the factory with, but this is what I chose to use because the viscosity stays low when cold.  Let me tell you, this step was a PIA.  The grease they use from the factory is some sticky stuff!

The last thing I had to address was the recoil assembly.  I would not retract when cold because of the grease used to assemble it.  I removed the recoil assembly,  Sprayed brake cleaner under the recoil pulley and around the center post and cycled the rope several times to try to remove as much grease as possible.  I repeated this several times until the brake clean started to come out clean.  I then sprayed it with a bit of WD-40 for a bit of lubrication that will work when cold.

Good luck my friend.  Feel free to ask if anything needs clarification.

Q

Offline alekhunts

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Re: Cold blooded
« Reply #3 on: Dec 16, 2013, 12:25 PM »
Soo putting the purge line into the carb won't flood it will it ? Seems like pushing a lot of gas into it
I'm not brightest tool in the shed my ice auger is

Offline JimQ

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Re: Cold blooded
« Reply #4 on: Dec 16, 2013, 12:48 PM »
I hear you and wondered the same thing but that's the way Eskimo has their augers setup and it does work.    Don't go crazy with the Purge Pump.  If you look at the throat of the carb, you'll see it's got a rotary type throttle valve.  All of the fuel from the purge pump won't end up in the carb.  Some ends up in the foam of the air cleaner.  I had the exact same problem.  HARD cold start.  It would eventually start after maybe 10 or 20 pulls but that's no good.  Seems like every engine is different but after the modification,  I've found that I can cold start it on the first or second pull like this:

No Choke
Depress Purge Pump 3 or 4 times
Hold throttle open 1/2
Pull it.

Like I said, seems like every engine is just a little different and you need to get to know it and learn what makes it start.  But, the purge pump line modification is something you're gonna have to do.  Carburetor adjustment alone will not do it.

Q

Offline alekhunts

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Re: Cold blooded
« Reply #5 on: Dec 16, 2013, 03:16 PM »
Thank you for all of the advice I was scared this motor wasn't going to work is the grease in the gear case  should I be really worried about it not working when it gets cold because I can do some things I just don't want to mess it all up taking crap apart
I'm not brightest tool in the shed my ice auger is

Offline JimQ

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Re: Cold blooded
« Reply #6 on: Dec 16, 2013, 03:44 PM »
Thank you for all of the advice I was scared this motor wasn't going to work is the grease in the gear case  should I be really worried about it not working when it gets cold because I can do some things I just don't want to mess it all up taking crap apart

I suppose there is always the chance that they used different gear lube in yours than mine but I doubt it.  Mine was literally useless.  The auger would not spin because the grease was so thick when cold.  Hit the throttle, the clutch drags and bogs down engine but the auger doesn't move.  I had to use a spud bar to punch holes in the ice that day.

Just try leaving it outside overnight and see what she does in the morning when cold.  Who knows, you might get lucky.  I didn't.

it's not too bad to take apart and put back together.  A few snap rings and a couple small roller like pins to key the gears to the shafts...  The sticky nasty grease was the worst part of the job.


BTW - Here's the offending ice drill.  Strikemaster 8" 224 Auger attached to an Eskimo E43 Power unit.



It's a heck of a combination and works great after working out the temperature related issues with the E43.

Q

Offline alekhunts

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Re: Cold blooded
« Reply #7 on: Dec 16, 2013, 05:22 PM »
How old is your motor? and how much and what kind of gear lube did you end up using ?
I'm not brightest tool in the shed my ice auger is

Offline JimQ

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Re: Cold blooded
« Reply #8 on: Dec 16, 2013, 05:50 PM »
The motor is/was new.  A few ozs of white lithium grease

Offline eepks

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Re: Cold blooded
« Reply #9 on: Dec 16, 2013, 07:44 PM »
The second line is held in place by a bracket and does not go to the carb throat




Offline JimQ

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Re: Cold blooded
« Reply #10 on: Dec 17, 2013, 08:00 AM »
The second line is held in place by a bracket and does not go to the carb throat

(Image removed from quote.)

Thanks for taking the time to post the photos.  It's interesting to see how they ship them.  I can see why they chose to do it that way.  No need to modify the air filter foam.

Having seen that, I think I would still route the purge pump outlet the way I did.  It just makes more sense to me and I'm very happy with the 1 or 2 pull cold start that I have now.

Interesting coincidence that the purge pump outlet line fits perfectly in the small hole in the center of the plate that goes under the air cleaner.  I wonder what the story is. 

Thanks again!

Q

Offline alekhunts

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Re: Cold blooded
« Reply #11 on: Dec 23, 2013, 03:48 PM »
Well I would just like to thank every one who gave me advice to fix my auger used it today at 7 degrees would start  on second pull every time soo thank soo much and I didn't half to change grease turned great for me all afternoon   :) ;D :o :tipup: :tipup: :)
I'm not brightest tool in the shed my ice auger is

 



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