Author Topic: Fluorocarbon quick strike rig? (Read 8529 times)

bart · « **on:** Dec 15, 2013, 06:01 PM »

I want to make my own Fluorocarbon quick strike rigs for Lakers and Pike. Any information, instructions and/or pics would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, bart

TravIce · « **Reply #1 on:** Dec 15, 2013, 07:47 PM »

I make mine with 100lb floro leader material, #4 red gamakatsu trebles, a quality ball bearing swivel and I use Scotty downrigger cable crimp sleeves to tie it all together. Never could tie a decent knot in that heavy floro, and at the time I switched to it the scotty sleeves were the only ones I could find that were big enough. I put the line through three times then crimp it tight, and I've never had one let go. By the end of the season the floro is pretty frayed from all the pike teeth, but none have ever broke on me. Hope that helps...

Whopper Stopper · « **Reply #2 on:** Dec 15, 2013, 07:58 PM »

Check out the Big Tooth Tackle QS rigs. One of the best fluorocarbon on the market. Definitely a good rig to copy.

Good luck and good fishing!

WS

bart · « **Reply #3 on:** Dec 16, 2013, 04:37 AM »

I'm checking into those crimp sleeves and Big Tooth Tackle QS rigs, Thanks!

TravIce · « **Reply #4 on:** Dec 16, 2013, 11:53 AM »

Just checked out that Big Tooth rig, and that is almost exactly how I make mine. I don't use the bead on top, or the blades but I have considered making some like that.

esox_xtm · « **Reply #5 on:** Dec 16, 2013, 05:01 PM »

Quote from: bart on Dec 16, 2013, 04:37 AM

I'm checking into those crimp sleeves and Big Tooth Tackle QS rigs, Thanks!

Before you get too far down the road, I'd recommend using aluminum crimps on fluoro. Steel, brass and copper can prematurely wear a connection, so what works well for steel downrigger cable may not be suitable. My choice for fluoro leaders 60-130# test are Grand Slam made by Hi-Seas.

Also take a look at this crimping primer for proper, reliable techniques:http://www.leadertec.com/tipsandtechniques/crimp_techniques.html You'll also need a proper tool for reliable results, a pliers or ChannelLock won't cut (yes I've been guilty)...........

I used to think crimps were "evil" but have since changed my tune. Gotta adhere to proper processes and tools to get there.

/m

bart · « **Reply #6 on:** Dec 16, 2013, 05:45 PM »

esox_xtm, thanks that should save me a few pit falls.

Question, can you do a quick strike rig with knots? Playing, I tried it with a Surgeon's knot at the barrel swivel and Palomar knots at the trebles. I used 30 lb test Fluorocarbon, also a red beads above each knot.

TravIce · « **Reply #7 on:** Dec 16, 2013, 08:40 PM »

Sure you can, if you're confident the knots will hold for you I say go for it...

stripernut · « **Reply #8 on:** Dec 16, 2013, 09:24 PM »

Bart, I would stay away from using the Surgeons Knot in your system. The breaking strength of that knot is around 70%. If you use the Palomar at the Barrel Swivel you will be closer to 100%...

bart · « **Reply #9 on:** Dec 17, 2013, 07:29 AM »

Cool, I'm going to play with Palomar knots. Thanks, bart

thomasthepikehunter · « **Reply #10 on:** Dec 17, 2013, 08:51 AM »

I went into detail how to make them out of fluorocarbon and steel near the bottom of the first page here http://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=265502.0

bart · « **Reply #11 on:** Dec 17, 2013, 09:02 AM »

thomasthepikehunter, Great info, thanks!

Whopper Stopper · « **Reply #12 on:** Dec 17, 2013, 06:15 PM »

Bart

Post up a couple of pictures when you get a couple made. Be interesting to see.

WS

esox_xtm · « **Reply #13 on:** Dec 17, 2013, 06:22 PM »

No reason knots won't work. For me it's just that when you get into the 50-60# test I feel is the minimum for toothy critters knots can get challenging. I've used Palomar and Uni knots with equal success. I tie Unis a lot so that's easiest for me but Palomars are an equal in ease of tying and reliability. I went to crimps only 'cause they're super fast and easy and (if done correctly) just as reliable.

That said, almost all of my pike rigs are thin, uncoated wire in 20-30# test. Easily strong enough for any fish you catch (if you're reasonable) and absolutely cut proof (not break proof).

/m

bart · « **Reply #14 on:** Dec 17, 2013, 07:49 PM »

Here is one I just finish. Wish I had larger hooks, I might redo it later. Let me know what you think?

TravIce · « **Reply #15 on:** Dec 17, 2013, 08:34 PM »

Looks good, what size are the hooks??

esox_xtm · « **Reply #16 on:** Dec 17, 2013, 08:43 PM »

What hooks have you got there? I routinely fish nothing larger than a pair of #6s on my Q/S rigs. Most of my baits are 9-10" but I've successfully covered baits as big as 15" with reliable hook ups. Just make sure you use a quality hook that is a minimum of 2x strong. The EC L774s is use are 4x strong as are the Daiichi trebles. I've also used some VMC 2x with good success. Bigger ain't necessarily better; hook quality and strength trump size..........

Rest of the rig looks good. Often bling is the thing.......... Make sure your knots are lubricated when you cinch 'em up, fluoro is especially sensitive to heat damage at the knot. And if your knots look like the "picture in the knot book" when they're tight, you're good to go. I've tied knots that just don't look right when I'm done.......... I re-tie. I fish with more confidence and I've never found the time it takes to get it right wasted.

/m

bart · « **Reply #17 on:** Dec 17, 2013, 08:44 PM »

The hooks are Size 6's. One side is about 1/4" longer than the other too, going to redo it with size 4 or 2 hooks?

bart · « **Reply #18 on:** Dec 17, 2013, 08:57 PM »

esox_xtm , I believe they are Eagle Claw size 6, not sure 2X? Out of habit all knots get slobbered on. I know what you mean about the knot looking right, these weren't perfect, left myself short on line.

This is adding another dimension to tip up fishing, kinda like fly tying a little and likely more rewarding catching that nice Pike or Tiger!

Whopper Stopper · « **Reply #19 on:** Dec 18, 2013, 03:43 AM »

I think you did a very good job. It is definitely something that will just get easier as time goes on.

WS

esox_xtm · « **Reply #20 on:** Dec 18, 2013, 05:54 AM »

Quote from: bart on Dec 17, 2013, 08:57 PM

............left myself short on line.

This is adding another dimension to tip up fishing, kinda like fly tying a little and likely more rewarding catching that nice Pike or Tiger!

When I started tying fluoro mine wound up short too. That's one of the reasons I switched to crimps. With the price of fluoro and the extra length needed to get a secure knot it just seemed wasteful........

As far as the satisfaction part, I've never bought a leader, always rolled my own. I like the control over quality, the ability to experiment and, of course, when folks ask "Where'd you get your leaders", I always tell 'em.

/m

TravIce · « **Reply #21 on:** Dec 18, 2013, 11:12 AM »

I personally like to use red #4 Gamakatsu hooks. I use to think bigger hooks were better, but found I have more hits with the #4's...

Invader440 · « **Reply #22 on:** Dec 18, 2013, 12:39 PM »

I used Whytie's thread from last year as a guide for making mine, only thing I did different was to use a #2 SPRO power swivel instead of just making a loop:

http://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=231259.0

kasilofchrisn · « **Reply #23 on:** Dec 18, 2013, 12:55 PM »

Those look good Bart.
I always make mine out of wire as I find pike aren't normally line shy.
What I do is tie a duoloc snap on the end of my braided Dacron tip-up line.
My quickstrikes always have a swivel on them. I attach the quickstrike swivels to the tip-up using the duoloc snaps. Then when I get a fish I simply unclip it and attached a prebaited setup and back down it goes. Then I can take my time unhooking the fish knowing the hot hole is still fishing.
Sometimes I will add a 1/8 oz egg sinker on the line above the duoloc to help get frozen bait down. We are not allowed to use live bait here so it is often frozen dead bait and the small egg sinker helps it sink faster.

krcat40 · « **Reply #24 on:** Dec 18, 2013, 01:03 PM »

Hey Bart couldn't you use a palomar knot for the barrel swivel so you are only tying one knot trying to get the lengths right instead of the hooks?

bart · « **Reply #25 on:** Dec 18, 2013, 01:40 PM »

Quote from: krcat40 on Dec 18, 2013, 01:03 PM

Hey Bart couldn't you use a palomar knot for the barrel swivel so you are only tying one knot trying to get the lengths right instead of the hooks?

Not sure... I tie the barrel swivel first, leaving two lengths of line for each treble. I think I just have to pay more attention on the exact starting point for each knot for the trebles on each length of line from the barrel swivel?

krcat40 · « **Reply #26 on:** Dec 18, 2013, 01:52 PM »

That's what I mean tie both hooks first, and then palamor the snap. That way the only misjudging you could really have is one; the second hook being tied. Hard to explain in words I guess.

Step 1: Tie Hook
Step 2: Measure line and cut off spool
Step 3: Tie second hook
Step 4: Find middle and tie barrel using palamor knot. adjusting to get equal length.

bart · « **Reply #27 on:** Dec 18, 2013, 02:12 PM »

I'll have to try it, but the palomar wouldn't allow the bead?

krcat40 · « **Reply #28 on:** Dec 18, 2013, 02:17 PM »

Quote from: bart on Dec 18, 2013, 02:12 PM

I'll have to try it, but the palomar wouldn't allow the bead?

True. Just looked at mine, and I don't put a bead there. Sorry just trying to help.

bart · « **Reply #29 on:** Dec 18, 2013, 02:55 PM »

Just tied one up, easier and quicker, still off a 1/4". Must be the knot throwing it off a little or the nut throwing it off?

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Author Topic: Fluorocarbon quick strike rig? (Read 8529 times)