Snowmobile on glare ice

[Junkie4Ice]

Got an old Polaris Indy Trail in a trade this offseason, made a front and back rack for it and used it for the first time last weekend. Nice to not have to pull a sled. Unfortunately there is no snow cover this year so the lakes are glare ice. My issue is that with the back rack, it fits my sled and all my equipment so it is back heavy. In addition to having a studded track, I had a really had time steering on the ice even with carbides on the skis. Does anyone have any suggestions to help with this? No snow in the extended forecast that I can see...Someone mentioned maybe adjusting the suspension?
It isn't a huge deal when I'm going 20+ mph as it is easier to steer then, but when I'm going slow to try and key in on the spot I want, it was so bad I had to get off and pick up the back end to re-direct the sled...

[tbern]

Is your front rack built strong enough and if you have some room,  to possibly add some kind of counterweight to it?

[Mancaveburnett]

Is your carbides sharp? If they are old you may want to get a new pair. A new pair shouldnt cost more than 50 bucks.

[badger132]

X2 on the balance- if there is enough weight on the track, it will be hard to steer. Also, have you looked at the carbides? They can be different shapes, and if they are not cutting into the ice and leaving a good scratch like ice skates, you will not get much out of them.

[Bucket Rump]

My Indy Trail Deluxe has the adjustable tension for the rear spring - soft, medium, and firm - that impact the ski-to-ground pressure in addition to allowing for more weight on the back end.  Moving the tension from soft to firm will increase that ski pressure.  If you've got a sled with the front torque arm limiter strap you can also increase ski pressure by adjusting them to the shorter length the strap holes provide.

[Alex Delarge]

Carbides are sold in various lengths, perhaps a longer set would help.

[Junkie4Ice]

My Indy Trail Deluxe has the adjustable tension for the rear spring - soft, medium, and firm - that impact the ski-to-ground pressure in addition to allowing for more weight on the back end.  Moving the tension from soft to firm will increase that ski pressure.  If you've got a sled with the front torque arm limiter strap you can also increase ski pressure by adjusting them to the shorter length the strap holes provide.

What year is your trail deluxe? I believe that's what mine is. This is what I'm thinking I need to do. I just don't know exactly how or if every snowmobile is adjustable. I'll have to take a closer look. I know there are a couple big bolts that connect to the track, I'm wondering if those are the adjustment bolts.

My front rack is designed just for my auger so I can't use it to counter the weight. I believe my carbides are either 8 or 10", do they come bigger than this? I think 6" is the norm on newer sleds. They leave an ice skate type track in the ice, but it isn't very deep and they don't dig in much even with the surface ice being softer from warm weather. Could I sharpen them myself? The whole sled is probably worth $500 so I don't really want to start putting money into it if I don't absolutely need to

[Bucket Rump]

What year is your trail deluxe? I believe that's what mine is. This is what I'm thinking I need to do. I just don't know exactly how or if every snowmobile is adjustable. I'll have to take a closer look. I know there are a couple big bolts that connect to the track, I'm wondering if those are the adjustment bolts.

Mine is a 1994 with the 488.  The tension adjustment is done by positioning of a small block that holds the short leg of the rear spring.

[Junkie4Ice]

Mine is a 1994 with the 488.  The tension adjustment is done by positioning of a small block that holds the short leg of the rear spring.

That's the exact year, make and model as mine. Thank you much, that really helps!!

[Bucket Rump]

That's the exact year, make and model as mine. Thank you much, that really helps!!

Glad to help.  And if you don't have them already, I would recommend that you add a set of ice scratchers to keep your hyfax slides from overheating/melting when running with speed on bare ice for more than a few minutes.

[Junkie4Ice]

Glad to help.  And if you don't have them already, I would recommend that you add a set of ice scratchers to keep your hyfax slides from overheating/melting when running with speed on bare ice for more than a few minutes.

I was told I wouldn't need those with it being fan cooled instead of liquid? Still worth putting them on?

[Fisherman 1]

I was told I wouldn't need those with it being fan cooled instead of liquid? Still worth putting them on?

The sliders between the rail frame and track need some sort of lubrication,  if your running on ice, it's the stratchers throwing up ice chips to do the job.  Go without and you'll find out why.

[eyeflyer]

I was told I wouldn't need those with it being fan cooled instead of liquid? Still worth putting them on?

The fan will keep the motor temps down but you still need scratchers to keep the sliders lubed.

[Junkie4Ice]

Well I'm glad you mentioned that then. That would be my luck too lol.

[Jkoht]

The studded track on bare ice is probably not the best combo. Studs are great in a lot of other areas, but pure ice and they'll just send you straight. I just used my polaris 340 touring (no studs) on glare ice this weekend and could whip crapties pretty much by only shifting my body weight. She almost bucked me once too but I held on lol.

[Bucket Rump]

The studded track on bare ice is probably not the best combo. Studs are great in a lot of other areas, but pure ice and they'll just send you straight. I just used my polaris 340 touring (no studs) on glare ice this weekend and could whip crapties pretty much by only shifting my body weight. She almost bucked me once too but I held on lol.

Try doing a quick stop on bare ice without those studs...


I prefer studs - they definitely help with starting and stopping and helps in slush, too, IMHO.

[DR.SPECKLER]

I remember the time I went to Houghton lake during tip up town.me and my bud brought our non studded snowmobiles.well there was not a speck of snow out there and the sleds wouldn't move a inch.lol only would do donuts..watching all the studded sleds race on by..ughh turned into  sitting on the snowmobile trailer drinking jack daniels and jigging tiny perch.

[Junkie4Ice]

Are there any alternatives to scrapers that I could try to keep the track cool this weekend? I'll be getting scrapers but I won't be able to get them by this weekend. I'll only be going about 5 miles on the ice and I keep it around 20 mph. Should I be worried? Maybe stopping half way through, drilling a hole and throwing some slush on the track?

[badger132]

There are 2 problems:

The track on the Hyfax relies on water/snow to reduce heat buildup which can melt the hyfax- some people squirt water with a little soap, or throw water or snow in there occasionally. Others just go slow.

The other problem is cooling, Water cooled sled rely on snow hitting the floorboards, which contain water channels and are the radiator for the sled. Scratchers are the only thing that solves it, but going slow reduces engine power and so heat.

I think your idea of going slow and stopping to throw slush in the track and on the floorboards is a good one. You might be able to pile ice chips from drilling a hole on the floorboards to carry some cooling along with you.

I have air cooled sleds, so I am not an expert in working around this issue. We usually have deep snow, and more issues with getting stuck.

 

[Bucket Rump]

Are there any alternatives to scrapers that I could try to keep the track cool this weekend? I'll be getting scrapers but I won't be able to get them by this weekend. I'll only be going about 5 miles on the ice and I keep it around 20 mph. Should I be worried? Maybe stopping half way through, drilling a hole and throwing some slush on the track?

You'll likely be okay - studs from the track will help throw some shaved ice.  As Badger mentioned, some guys will spray some water with dish soap on before heading out.  I've not done it, but have seen guys drill a hole in the back of each ski and nut a bolt on at a height to scrape the ice.