Re: Ice Hut Build...FINISHED!!! Feb21

[Bout-Time]

Heh Heh, I reuse quite a bit of materials but it does add to the stress sometimes.

I built my whole 4x8 out of re-claimed stuff, but it only cost me all of $10 to build it. Use what you can, it all saves you money in the end. (more $$ for other gear LOL)

Lookin good so far with your build!

[gaudetskie]

As others have said weight can be an issue. I tell my guys at work, "with the right momentum, and or lubrication anything will move. Just be sure of where you hook on to it." If you have a lot of weight, the tow bar needs to be able to hold up. It will put stress forward as well as latterallay. I'd recommend steel. (but then again I'm a welder so of coarse I'd use steel.) One year I about pulled the 1/2 eye bolt I was using clean through a 2x4. And I was just using it to pull my 5'x10'.
As everyone has said, keep the pics comming!
Nick.

[fishnwire]

I don't know why these pictures don't fit on the screen.  I re-sized them the same as the ones from yesterday.

[S.M.05]

Nice work again.

Lots of glue just like my grandpa tought me when I was young.
He didnt build it pretty, he built stuff tuff.

Glad to see you went the 2x3 and 1/4" ply route. If you decide to ply the interior it will only strengthen it more.

I know your not finished framing in your pics but it looks like you should consider beefn up the window area.
I would flip that top 2x3 (Header) to strengthen it, maybe even replace it with a 2x4 and add cripples in top and bottom to help take
the load of the window it self.

I really dont know your experience with framing so here is link just in case it helps.
http://www.windowhowto.com/frame.shtml

Adding a stud under that splice in the top plate would be a good idea too.

I see you have already aced the window height as Mainedog said.

Great work so far, looks like I will have to check for the up dates next week.

[Mainedog]

Eaves.  Don't forget to have some overhangs to keep the melt/rain from dripping down the walls or on the propped open door (because the wood stove is cranking....and you need some fresh air). 

MD

[fishnwire]

Nice work again.

Lots of glue just like my grandpa tought me when I was young.
He didnt build it pretty, he built stuff tuff.

Glad to see you went the 2x3 and 1/4" ply route. If you decide to ply the interior it will only strengthen it more.

Thanks. 

If I don't see glue ooze out between the two surfaces I'm gluing...I figure I was too cheap.

I will be doing something with the inside...perhaps 1/4 ply, perhaps that luan stuff. 

I know your not finished framing in your pics but it looks like you should consider beefn up the window area.
I would flip that top 2x3 (Header) to strengthen it, maybe even replace it with a 2x4 and add cripples in top and bottom to help take
the load of the window it self.

I really dont know your experience with framing so here is link just in case it helps.
http://www.windowhowto.com/frame.shtml

Adding a stud under that splice in the top plate would be a good idea too.

I see you have already aced the window height as Mainedog said.

Great work so far, looks like I will have to check for the up dates next week.

I will consider it and discuss it with my partner.  We're not talking about a load bearing wall here, and there's more work to do than what you see in the pics.  Thanks for the link though.  Gives me something to think about.

Studs are going under and below the splices...just thought I'd wait for the glue to set.

I gave the window height a lot of thought and even mocked it up on a sawhorse.  I think I've got it just right but won't really know for sure until the benches are done and I have some ice to look at through the thing.

Sadly, I won't have an update until probably Monday.

[fishnwire]

Eaves.  Don't forget to have some overhangs to keep the melt/rain from dripping down the walls or on the propped open door (because the wood stove is cranking....and you need some fresh air). 

MD

I'm thinking I can overhang the metal roof I plan on putting on.

[codewordcs1]

You need to tell your father in law that break times over and get back to work there's a shanty to build and the ice will be here soon! j/k 
Looking good. What are you insulating the walls and roof with?

[Bout-Time]

I'm thinking I can overhang the metal roof I plan on putting on.

Leaving a little overhang to keep the drips off your wood sheathed walls is a good idea, but keep in mind the wind. A few inch overhang wont allow the wind much to get hold of, but still help protect your wood. I try to give the wind as little resistance areas as possible.

[Goatskin]

Love these work in progress threads. You guys always have tons of new and cool ideas.

[fishnwire]

Update...Dec 5
-
OK...I don't have a lot to show.  We made as much progress as possible today.  Curing time holds things up.

We finished the last of the framing on the first wall, cut the plywood to accommodate the window, and then glued and screwed it down. 



What sucked was that we were pretty much at a standstill at this point.  The construction adhesive needs time to cure, so we couldn't put the finished wall out side to make room to start another.  So we went and got the rest of the studs we need, more glue, kerosene for the heater, and and few other things.  We came back and picked out our headers and footers (straightest ones) and then cut the rest of our studs on the miter saw. 

Then we started talking about what we'd do with the outside walls, as far as painting or staining them.  I realized that while the adhesive is drying in the heated garage overnight, it would be a good time to stain or paint it, so that it could dry too.  I don't know when the next time is that I'll have a heated space and time to do such a thing...finding a place to do it once the walls are up would be hard.  Now was absolutely the time. 

I ran out and looked at a few options. I decided to go with a tinted oil deck stain.  It's supposed to be good for at least 5 years, it requires only one coat, and was available in many shades...they take the base, add the tint and mix it up right there.  I picked something called "north pole"...seems appropriate.  Good thing I only needed a gallon...it was close to $50.  If I painted or went with a non-oil based stain, I would have had to prime or do a second coat (respectively) and lost an added a day's drying time to each wall.  Plus, once I'd buy the primer plus paint, or two gallons (instead of one) of stain, I wouldn't save any money. 

Here's the first wall stained.  It looks pretty gray in the pics, but has a slight bluish tint to it in "real life".  There is one spot were the chalk liner puked out an insane amount of chalk, and although I cleaned it up as best I could, there's a reddish hue coming through...what are you gonna do?  It's just an ice hut after all.  Gimme a break already.



-



So the plan is to move that wall outside in the morning, put a tarp on it, and then start the opposite wall.  We'll (hopefully) finish that studding (including framing a window) glue and screw the plywood, stain it, and let that cure/dry overnight.  If that goes as scheduled I'll have the walls done by the end of my days off.  After that I still need to take the base out of the garage, invert it, put it back in the garage, cut and glue the insulation, apply the sliders (still don't have 'em) let all adhesive (foam board stuff and regular stuff for the sliders) dry, take it back out of the garage and flip it back over, put it on a trailer, stack the finished walls on top, drive it to my buddy's with a huge garage (works on semis in there, but will only give me a day or two) unload it, put walls up, build roof, let adhesive dry overnight, load it on the trailer and take to my driveway...(Whew...just thinking about all that work makes me tired) then I can heat the inside while I do the insulation, paneling, benches, shelves, wood stove and pipe, holes, roof exterior, etc.  I'll be able to do an hour or two of construction after work, where as now I have to drive halfway across town just to get to the build site.  I'm sure there will be sufficient ice to drive a tow vehicle on before I'm done...I just hope it hasn't all melted by then.

[Bout-Time]

Well its slow work right now, but it will go together fast once all the pieces are done. Looks 1st rate so far!

Couple suggestions,

You could just lean the floor up against a wall to do the underside stuff. Saves a little hassle moving it around and in and out.

Id run a thin bead of caulking into the seams between your outside plwood panels to keep the water from getting inside your wall through the years. You could run a bead around your windows too.

[fishnwire]

Hey Folks...

We worked the last two days but I didn't post an update yesterday...I had non-icehut related matters (also referred to as my life) that I had to attend to.  Priorities suck when they get in the way of frivolities.   

On Tuesday morning we showed up to find the stain dry...but the fumes from it very much still present.  My brother-in-law's wife made him change his clothes and shower after he was in there at about 9 pm the night before just long enough to put fuel in the heater and turn off the lights.  That stuff is pungent.  We opened the garage door and let it air out for a few minutes and then moved the completed north wall out into the driveway.  There was only the Old Man and I so we shifted one edge onto a couple of dollies, then picked up the opposite side and walked it out.  Then we rested it on four milk crates. 





Now we had room to start the south wall.  So away we went.  I picked out the placement of the window (I wanted this one a fair bit higher and off to one side) and we started framing.



Then glue, plywood, screws, stain...no buffing or scrubbing, it's just that easy!



We'll cut the hole for the window from the other side, once the wall is up.  No need to stain there.

We left that to dry overnight (cracked a window this time) and I went to Fabricland to look at 4 inch foam, which I thought I'd use for my bunks/benches.  It's $65 a meter, and I'd need nearly four meters of it, so I'm looking at other options.  Even the two inch stuff (how good a night's sleep would you get on that?) would cost me $140...I think I can find something better and cheaper.  My buddy suggested crib mattresses...I might go look at those.  I'd also love to hear other suggestions...that's YOU folks.

We happened to have four guys first thing this morning, so we each picked up a corner and easily moved the completed south wall outside and rested it on top of the north wall.



We began the west wall next.  I wanted this window low like the first one and off-centre enough to stay away from the stove that will go in the west-north corner. 



We finished framing it, put the plywood on (with glues and screws of course)...



Then...my camera's batteries died.  We finished the screwin' and stained it.  Then went for lunch.  When we came back, (because of it smaller size than the north and south walls) we were able to lean it against a wall inside the garage.  This freed up the space to start the east wall. 

Knowing I want a 30" bench/bunk along the west wall (anything less will not provide a comfy night's sleep), I put the door so that I'll have room once the inside is insulated and paneled.  I wanted a door around 32" wide (I'll have a bulky snowsuit on a lot of the time I'm going through it) so I had to off-centre the opening.  Not by much, a few inches maybe.  We finished the framing, and were ready to lay the plywood down, but my 79 year old Father-in-law decided he was "tired" and "hungry" and wanted to call it a day...can you believe that garbage?

If it wasn't for the fact that his knowledge and experience as a carpenter has prevented me from making innumerable mistakes, some of which would have nearly ruined the build, and at best I'd have a rickety, drafty piece of junk at this point...............On second thought, let's just forget I said anything.

Almost done though.  All that's left is (not necessarily in order):

Cut plywood for door.
Lay down plywood on east wall.
Stain it.
Frame and hang door.
Invert base (need at least four guys).
Fit insulation to floor, glue it in, let it dry.
Re-invert base, load on trailer, (walls too) take to my driveway.
Unload it all, level out base.
Assemble walls to base.
Construct roof.
Insulate walls
Panel interior walls
Build benches/bunk, shelves, etc
Cut holes for fishing.
Install metal base/backing for stove.
Install stove/stove pipe.
Attach metal roof.
Wire electrics (surface mount).

The time it will take is one thing, but nearly every one of those things requires an investment of something other than time, if you know what I mean.  I think I have a line on a free wood stove and all the metal I need to back it, but other stuff won't be as cheaply available.  I've already got the insulation for the floor, but I don't have any yet for the walls or roof...the cost of that stuff adds up when you buy 24 sheets at once.  I'm not looking forward to that hit.

I am looking forward to having a well insulated hut to kick back in though, so what am I gonna do...right?  I will say that this thing is costing me more than I anticipated.  Maybe not so much what I budgeted, because when I thought about how much I could (should?) spend, and then did a preliminary investigation of what I thought it would cost, I figured I'd have a ton of "wiggle room".  If a hut was constructed of little more than studs and plywood (the cost of which I concentrated on) I could build three of them for what this thing will cost.  I didn't realize just how much things like construction adhesive, screws and nails, insulation, stain, a few tools I didn't have, kerosene for the heater, burning gas in the truck running around...and so on (and so on and so on it seems) adds to the cost of such a project.  I've heard you should always make the most accurate budget you can predict...and then double it.  I'm not there yet, but I might get close.

That's FA...I'm going to end up with the hut I want and it's not going to break me.  By the time's it's done, I might have to offer you a cheap brand of beer if you show up...but I won't have have to live in it, so it's all good.

More tomorrow I hope.

Don't forget to give me your suggestions for bench/bunk padding.  I need something no more than 30 inches wide, and it has to provide a decent night's sleep so it should be 3 or 4 inches thick at least.

Thanks in advance for your ideas...thanks for just following along.

[tinyfisher]

Nice looking build!  The last thing you want when a blizzard comes through is something that won't hold up, especially if you're inside!  Thans for sharing, don't see a lot of permanents down here in IL...

That being said, what's a generator shanty?  Is it literally just a smaller shanty for housing and securing a gas generator?

[teamlund]

should hav ejust turned that grey enclose trailer into a shanty.... Looks like a perfect size. 

looks like the shack is coming along great!

[fishnwire]

More progress...a little anyway.

First of all, we're finally getting a bit of winter weather here in Sudbury.  This was the view outside the garage by about noon yesterday.



I swept off my walls and then shoveled the driveway for my Brother-in-law.  I'm really grateful for the use of his garage...and he did say it was "taking a little longer than I thought"...so I want to hurry up and get out of there while trying to be a good guest at the same time.

One thing I forgot to mention was that we cut groves in the west wall to accommodate the runners.  Check it out.




 
That was yesterday.  I cut them before I stained so that I could stain along the cut edges.  Anyway...

When we got there today, We were finished framing the east wall, so we cut the opening for the door and then glued 'n' screwed the plywood down.



Then the stain...

 

We let it dry for a couple hours while we got supplies to build the door and had a bite to eat.  Then we leaned it against the garage door with the west wall.  I'll cut the footer at the door opening once the walls are up so there's nothing to trip over.  I need it for now to maintain the structural integrity of the wall.  After we moved it I realized I forgot to cut the notches for the skis.  The stain was a bit tacky still and I didn't want to generate the sawdust so that will have to wait until later.



Next we built a simple door.  We made it out of the same quarter ply and 2x3's the rest of the walls are made from.  It fits like a glove and is remarkably rigid, considering it's components' relative flimsiness.  I figure it'll stiffen up even more once I fit and glue the insulation down.





The doubling up along the sides was structurally unnecessary, but that way it gives me something meaty to attach hardware to.

I had some time left after my Father-in-law went home so I went ahead with an idea I've been playing with.  Guys have told me to use 2x(whatever) blocks between the runners and ice to keep the hut from freezing in.  Someone else mentioned styrofoam blue-board is good because it resists freezing in.  I figured I'd combine the two.  I bought a one inch thick 2'x8' piece of blue-board and two pressure treated 10 foot 2"x8"s.  I cut the insulation into three 8 inch wide strips.



Then I took the 2x8s and applied foam board adhesive to the tops, then the foam board on top.  Then I made a "double foam-board on pressure treated" sandwich, and clamped it all together.





When I take the clamps off, I'll have two pieces,  each ten feet long (will fit inside shack for transport) that I can put under the hut, insulation side down and running perpendicular to the skis.  If they don't work it will have cost me around $40 to find out.  I've had more expensive lessons that taught me less.  I figured it was worth a try.  I'll let everyone know how they work out.

I go back to work Friday but am on night-shift, so I'm hoping to get some work done in the morning.  The problem is that the next step is insulating the floor, and I need to organize a time when I can get 4 to a  half-dozen men over there to flip that heavy such-and-such over.  It'll take some effort, but I'm sure it's do-able  We have to pull it out of the garage (we have dollies) flip it over, put it back on the dollies and wheel back inside.  I'll be happy when that is done, except that I'll know I have to do it all over again to get it right-side up.

Pics of an inverted base to come next...I hope.


 

[Bout-Time]

Why not just lean it up inside the garage so you can get access to the bottom? Less flipping that way.

You gonna cut the jig holes before insulating the floor?

[da man cave shack]

Nice, it looks like its going to be a casstle. I like the white stuff on the ground too.

[fishnwire]

Hey Folks...

I've been working (for a living...not the fun kind) quite a bit lately so the progress is not great.  Last time on "Ice Hut Build" we finished the walls and door, including stain, and were ready to start insulating them.  We tried cutting the 2 inch "Plastispan" foam boards with a utility knife, but it was a bit "hacky", so we used the circular saw and straight edge.  It worked great and we did the door and west wall it will hang on.



We had planned on using foam board adhesive.  This stuff...



But we soon found out it is terrible stuff to work with.  Its consistency is nothing like regular PL Premium construction adhesive, which spreads easily but (I've been told) burns through foam board.  You also need to apply "mechanical support" for 24 hours while it dries.  We had to weigh it down and were running out of heavy stuff to do so with.  I decided to forgo the adhesive, knowing the paneling I'll use will keep the foam board from going anywhere.

This also meant I couldn't use it (count on it) to keep my foam panels on the underside in place.  I had previously considered skinning the bottom with 3/8s ply, so that made up my mind.  The ply will sandwich the foam board beneath the floor ply.

The other thing we found out is that cutting foam board with a Skilsaw, while allowing for a perfect fit, creates a lot of foamy sawdust.  That stuff (unlike wood sawdust) just flies around when you try to sweep it up.  I didn't want to generate that kind of mess in my Brother-in-law's normally pristine garage.  Knowing we didn't need the heated space for foam board adhesive to cure, we decided we were done there.

We loaded the 4 walls on my trailer and brought them to my Father-in-law's driveway.  It's pretty big.  He promised my Mother-in-law we'd have it done and out of there by Christmas...which he agreed to knowing full well it will never happen.  He wonders why he gets into trouble with her.  Then again, I've pulled similar stuff on his daughter, so I can't judge.  Then we made a second trip for the base. 



That's my buddy whose place the hut is going.  The three of us and my Dad just picked up the base and put it on the trailer, no problem.  It wasn't as heavy as I thought...not nearly as much.  The walls are really light.  I think this thing is not going to be quite the pig I had imagined.

We unloaded at the new site.  You'll notice there's little sign that winter has arrived in Sudbury.  At least it takes the pressure off of the build schedule knowing there's nothing resembling an ice surface that will accommodate it within at least a hundred kilometers.



Flipping the base was not as hard as I thought it would be either.  "My Two Dads" and I did it ourselves, with only a moment's grunting.



I picked up some 1/4 puckboard cut into 4 inch strips, 8 feet long.  It cost me about $70 tax in.  I had a few lines on free alternatives...but none seemed to pan out and I just needed something so I could get it done.  I picked up a number 8 bit with a collar that allows counter-sinking of the screw head, and put about a million 2 inch screws in.  I tried one inch screws but they spun instead of "sucking in" slightly.







I wanted to cut the jigging holes before I fit the insulation and then the underskin, figuring it would be easier to do it one layer at a time.  Ideally I'd like them about 6 inches closer to the bench than where they will go, but the runners are in the way.  My other option is to move them to the insides of the runners, but they'll be way too close for comfortable jigging...almost between ones' feet.  If I'd have moved the runners further out, I'd have needed another east/south joist between them, so this was the best option.  Also this leaves a nice, wide walk-way through the centre of the hut.

I bought some pails from Lowes to insert into the holes to cut down on draft and provide a "catch-ridge" for items accidentally kicked around or dropped on the floor.  My father in law had a bunch...but they were of a variety of sizes and current condition.  I figured it would save a lot of hassle to just get four the same size and that are easily replaceable.  They were about $4 each, so they're far from a big ticket item.  They came with lids which I'll glue the insulation I'll cut out for the holes to the underside of.  They also have a nice big lip on the outside a few inches down that will allow them to fit nicely and flat even if my hole cuts are not perfect.

I turned them upside down and cut the bottoms out with a jigsaw.



Look at the Old Man...he's in his glory.  I can't seem to find a pic of my Mother-in-law from today with a similar look on her face.  Oh well.



It was raining pretty hard by now, so we didn't want to bust out the power tools in it.  That was the end of things for the day.

Tomorrow I want to cut those holes, fit the insulation and underskin for the floor (cut those holes) and flip it back over.  The following day the walls go up.

Thanks for checking in...

FISH'n'WIRE


 

 

[fishnwire]

Wow you have done alot! Great job!

The play by play build your doing is awsem, it will help alot of people.

Thanks!

One suggestion............ Don't cut your holes until you place all your furnature inside. you might regret it, a long drill and sawzall blade will make it really easy. I tapered mine a little to keep a snug fit.

(Image removed from quote.)

And no that isnt the porta potty, thats just dirt on the ground where I was doing my build. 

I've not done as much as I'd like, and have a ways to go, but thanks Dude.  To be honest, the whole play-by-play thing is partially for me...kind of a journal I might look back on.  I'm quite certain few are interested in the minutia of my build...and fewer yet are as interested as me.  It's something to occupy my obsession at times I can't be on the actual build.

Where did you get those hole covers and rims?  I've seen similar ones in commercial made portables but didn't know they were available "a la carte" so to speak.  It's probably too late now, but I've have absolutely considering incorporating them.

[S.M.05]

 Made alot of progress since the last time I checked in on your build.
Its looking great and by the sounds of it your feeling the weight savings already.

You could use some low expansion foam to secure the EDGE of the foam boards? Just trim off any excess once it sets up.
Wont look pretty but will make it air tight, plus you wont see it once you put on the inside ply.
(just like throwing out ideas )

rickl1968 is right about setting up some seats to figure hole placement. I tried sitting with a rod in hand to find the best distance.
Its all about your comfort at the palace

I like the buckets, they should work great.

Look forward to seeing your next update.

[S.M.05]

rickl1968 are those the "Catch covers"?
Have been looking at those myself.

[laclabiche walleye hunter]

I love this thread awesome build ur gonna have a nice shack when your done.

[fishnwire]

Made alot of progress since the last time I checked in on your build.
Its looking great and by the sounds of it your feeling the weight savings already.

I'm really happy I went with 2x3 studs, 1/4 ply walls and 5/8 ply flooring, instead of the 2x4 studs (doubled up in places) 1/2 ply walls and 3/4 flooring my Father-in-law (whose built several houses) was pushing for.

You could use some low expansion foam to secure the EDGE of the foam boards? Just trim off any excess once it sets up.
Wont look pretty but will make it air tight, plus you wont see it once you put on the inside ply.
(just like throwing out ideas )

I was thinking about doing just that.  There are two-packs on sale at Lowe's right now too.  I'll consider it more seriously.

 
rickl1968 is right about setting up some seats to figure hole placement. I tried sitting with a rod in hand to find the best distance.
Its all about your comfort at the palace

I did spend a fair amount of time in the garage after the floor was finished with a tape measure, magic marker, mock bench, and jigging rod...trying stuff out.  I'm close to ideal...as opposed to huts we've been in whose lay-out is far from ideal.  It was between having to stretch out a little as opposed to jigging practically between your feet...I made the right decision.  (I hope.)

I like the buckets, they should work great.

Look forward to seeing your next update.

I think the buckets will work out good.  Thanks.  You'll get an update shortly after there is something to update...so thanks again.

[fishnwire]

Umm you have to look at how many people are viewing this post. I keep coming back, why?  I just like watching the build and seeing what your doing next, I might just build a bigger one next year....Who knows? 

2339 views at the moment! 

I didn't notice the view count and wouldn't have known that it was relatively high.  Learning it is feels pretty cool, I have to admit.  This is as close to famous as I'm likely to get.

If you do build a hut next year, bigger or not...you should post an ongoing report here for us all to read.  I know I'd get a kick out of it (might learn a thing or two for my next, bigger build ) and if you get as much enjoyment and helpful advice from it that I have, that makes it worth it alone.

[fishnwire]

I love this thread awesome build ur gonna have a nice shack when your done.

I love that you love the thread.  Thanks so much for checking it out and thanks even more for the encouraging words.

You guys are awesome.

[teamlund]

catch covers are a must 

[fishnwire]

We got a fair bit done today, but I didn't take as many pics as I normally do.  My Father-in-law was not feeling well so he took the morning off and rested.  I got so into working alone and not stopping to confer with a partner that I forgot to document things with the camera.

I started by cutting out the jigging holes.  There's going to be four...three on one side and one on the other.  I put them as close to the joists as I could and still have room to work the sabre saw.  I actually used a jigsaw for most of the hole, using the sabre saw only for the tight sections.  I tested them with the pails I'm using as inserts and was happy, so I began fitting insulation.

I used the jigsaw to cut the insulation...it didn't make nice edges, so I cleaned them up using this baby here...



It's an electric knife from my kitchen.  I got it when my grandmother gave up her apartment a few years ago and have almost never used it.  It was great for shaving off a little bit at a time to get a good fit.  I think I dulled up the blades or burnt out the motor a bit...because by the time I was done it wasn't working so great.  Oh well.

The sections that had jigging holes were a little more effort.  I fitted them in and them laid down in the mud and traced the edge of the hole in the floor board.  Then I popped them out and used the jigsaw the cut the hole.  It sounds easy...and by the fourth one it was, but it took some friggin' around to figure it all out.







It took a while and generated a fair bit of mess, but I finished the fitting the insulation and cutting the four holes.  I was ready to skin the bottom with 3/8s ply.  By this time my Father-in-law was feeling better (or just left out) and came out to help.





I cut the ply to size, laid it down and (on the sections with jigging holes) marked them from the bottom.  I used the jigsaw to cut the holes and then screwed 'em down.  We finished just at dusk, so I needed the flash for the last pics.





Then with the help of the my Father-in-law's neighbour (who I happened to attend high-school with) we flipped 'er back over.  I stuck the inserts in and they all fit like gloves.  Check out the Old Man with a jigging rod pretending to fish.  We were both feeling pretty stoked.



Tomorrow, it's all about a massive erection...the walls go up.  Finally I will have something resembling an actual edifice.  I'm pumped to see that and take a few pics to post here.  Then the roof goes on and once that happens I'll have a dry, heat-able space to finish most of the work. 

I'm still eager for suggestions, questions, or criticisms...thanks for those and thanks for checking out this episode of "Ice Hut Build". 

   

[fishnwire]

catch covers are a must 

I might have gone with those if I'd have known I could get them.  I went with these 5 gallon pails from Lowes, and I think I'll be happy with them.  They have a big lip on the outside so (despite my imperfect hole cutting job) they extend past the opening all the way around.  Once in place they will extend below to just above the ice surface, cutting down on drafts.  They came with lids, so I'll glue left-over insulation to the bottoms of them for when the holes are not in use.  I left the handles on the pails, so they are easily pulled form the holes for transport.  Also they stick up above the floor about three inches...that rim will hopefully prevent stuff accidentally dropped or kicked across the floor from falling down the hole.   

The only problem is that I'll need to figure out something I can fasten down so that when I'm moving the hut, a snowbank's worth of snow doesn't fly into the hut via the open holes.  I saved the cuts so I might just use them somehow. 

[S.M.05]

Tomorrow, it's all about a massive erection...the walls go up.

Also they stick up above the floor about three inches...that rim will hopefully prevent stuff accidentally dropped or kicked across the floor from falling down the hole.

I was thinking the same thing.

The base looks awesome and the insulation looks tight.
Better grab the old man a cold pop, looks like he deserves one.