The K-Drill - Cordless Drill Electric Ice Auger System

[BaitBucket]

Its not the same ... trust me  .....   i have both and the Fin Bore requires way more effort .... the nils is effortless 

I have used both as well.. Couldnt tell any difference, thats why I bought the Fin Bore..

[ship of fools]

I have used both as well.. Couldnt tell any difference, thats why I bought the Fin Bore..

wait until you turn 50 .... and ruin your shoulder using an 8 inch mora in 18 inches of ice      ....       the downward pressure that the FIn Bore requires makes it noticably tougher to drill a hole.

I can go through 18 inches with the nils and i don't feel a thing

[BaitBucket]

Ill skip the ruining my shoulder part. And as mentioned before. I havent had to apply any downward pressure on my fin bore. Just crank till your thru..

[FISHFORPIKE]

So, Chi, have you gotten the info you wanted on the K-Drill system?  I would purchase their complete system if it were me.  It looks pretty good.  Light weight - for me, I would have to carry one spare battery; not too bad a deal.  Not cheap, but the "good" things in life are never cheap. 

[luv2fish2]

so crispy critter  how's the "k" drill working out thinking of one maybe next year i'm having good luck so far with my 6" lazer and milwaukee fuel 18 volt drill just gotta get over the 250.00 price for an 8"

[crispycritter]

I didn't get it yet tracking changed to diverse weather . So I'm thinking Monday I hope anywhoo

[Chi]

So, Chi, have you gotten the info you wanted on the K-Drill system?  I would purchase their complete system if it were me.  It looks pretty good.  Light weight - for me, I would have to carry one spare battery; not too bad a deal.  Not cheap, but the "good" things in life are never cheap. 

I'm using the 6" k-drill with the ridgid 18V hammer, Ridgid is a good drill but I think the Milwaukee would have been the better choice., just didn't want to spend the extra $100. I'm  having trouble getting use to a 6" hole, never had less than a 7" hole. To answer you, Yes all my questions have been answered.

          Good fishing

[Townie]

Please, less of the tired Nils vs. Finbore debate-- stay on thread. So far one bad review of the K-Drill & a couple positive(?) I love the idea of chipper blades which rarely need replacement/sharpening according to Vexilar ad. I go thru a fresh set of 6" lazer blades a season. Gets costly... PS I've always babied my lazer blades, swedish made only.  They just dont hold up on my cordless rig.

[Chi]

Please, less of the tired Nils vs. Finbore debate-- stay on thread. So far one bad review of the K-Drill & a couple positive(?) I love the idea of chipper blades which rarely need replacement/sharpening according to Vexilar ad. I go thru a fresh set of 6" lazer blades a season. Gets costly... PS I've always babied my lazer blades, swedish made only.  They just dont hold up on my cordless rig.

Thanks Townie, Yes lets Please stay on thread.

[percheater]

I use the 4 1/2 orange nils and love it. I jig for perch and the old crank bothers my shoulders. That being said i jig perch mostly. Not many in use Vermont but there will be. Lots have watched mine work and are impressed. One guy bought one and cursed me until I saw he was trying to run on high speed and his tourqe was too low. Cut super after he went to slow speed and high torque. now he loves it.

[Reel trouble]

What kind of blades does the k drill use ? did i read that right above you can also use a hand crank with them ?

[luv2fish2]

never seen a hand crank i don't think there is such a thing ( maybe a nils) just got a k drill haven't had a chance to use it yet had to order an adapter from vexilar they are on a 5 day back log for now gonna use 6" lazer can't wait to try out the k drill

[3300]

@ crispycritter, did you ever get your k-drill ? your last post said shipment delayed due to weather.

@ luv2fish2, how did you like yours?

this topic never went any where.
i am not looking to buy another auger, but wanted to hear more about this thing.

was reading this about it and wondered why one would buy it if not opening old holes out side of an ice house.
sounds like you would need two augers, one for making new ice holes and this one to reopen them.

Here is the ultimate drill assembly designed for hand held cordless electric drills. Using high carbon steel chipper blades, this Drill assembly is designed specifically for re-drilling old holes.

The composite flutes are not designed to throw ice shavings around the inside of your fish house, but instead is designed to make it very easy to remove the ice without getting ice all over the floor.

[Chi]

I use the 4 1/2 orange nils and love it. I jig for perch and the old crank bothers my shoulders. That being said i jig perch mostly. Not many in use Vermont but there will be. Lots have watched mine work and are impressed. One guy bought one and cursed me until I saw he was trying to run on high speed and his tourqe was too low. Cut super after he went to slow speed and high torque. now he loves it.

Percheater you say slow speed #1 and high torque, referring to high torque do you mean the numbers 1-24 on the dial ? please correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the numbers 1-24 (clutch slip settings is only for screwing) only come into play when the drill is set to screw mode. When using the drill in drill mode like you should for drilling holes,  I found no difference what the number setting was. If there's something I'm missing here please explain.

[BlackDucksAndBrownDogs]

@ crispycritter, did you ever get your k-drill ? your last post said shipment delayed due to weather.

@ luv2fish2, how did you like yours?

this topic never went any where.
i am not looking to buy another auger, but wanted to hear more about this thing.

was reading this about it and wondered why one would buy it if not opening old holes out side of an ice house.
sounds like you would need two augers, one for making new ice holes and this one to reopen them.

Here is the ultimate drill assembly designed for hand held cordless electric drills. Using high carbon steel chipper blades, this Drill assembly is designed specifically for re-drilling old holes.

The composite flutes are not designed to throw ice shavings around the inside of your fish house, but instead is designed to make it very easy to remove the ice without getting ice all over the floor.

The description is poorly worded.  What they mean to say is that the K-Drill is designed to do what other hand augers can't -- (1) rip through ice to drill fresh holes, (2) effortlessly re-open old holes, and (3) leave clean holes with minimum slush and shavings.

I've been using a 6" K-Drill since mid-January.  It replaced a Lazer and was well worth the money.  It's faster and, due to design, allows me to drill overlapping holes if needed.  It doesn't catch at the bottom of the hole .  And, since it leaves almost no slush, I rarely have to use a skimmer, thus saving time.

It's also incredibly light.

It only has one downside -- it's very aggressive and places more demand on the drill.  With 3ah batteries, I get a little over 300" of ice per.  I got almost 350" with my Lazer.  You want 4ah batteries with the K-Drill.

That said, I literally can drill one-handed.  I just brace the torque handle on my torso and squeeze the trigger.  With no downward force it cuts better than an inch per second.

[luv2fish2]

ok here's the goods  i used a 6" kdrill worked better than a lazer higher speed less stoppage on the last bit of ice drilled alot of holes 20 to be exact threw 10"+ of ice still had 3/4 of my battery ( i use a milwaukee 18 volt brushless hammer drill ) was using that setup hooked directly to my drill mine is that the way to go if you travel light tried to hook it to my clam plate wouldn't go i had an early production auger sent it back to vexilar they took it in exchange for an 8" kdrill  tried that out last weekend on erie lots of ice 10-24" got 12 to 14 holes on 1 4ah battery on the clam plate definately want the plate if your using an 8" its a beast very happy with the setup if you drill alot of holes ( over 20-25) in thick ice i'd opted for a 6" but i like the 8" next year i'll pickup a 5ah when the price comes down a little . p.s. i cannot say enough good things about greg bleck from vexilar tech service the guy is great a+++++ customer service my 2cents worth the cash if you can afford it or find one used like me 

[IFF]

Percheater you say slow speed #1 and high torque, referring to high torque do you mean the numbers 1-24 on the dial ? please correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the numbers 1-24 (clutch slip settings is only for screwing) only come into play when the drill is set to screw mode. When using the drill in drill mode like you should for drilling holes,  I found no difference what the number setting was. If there's something I'm missing here please explain.

Just like in the promo video, drill should be set on #1, and drill mode.  That gives you the correct speed and torque that the angle of the blades are set for.

[Chi]

Just like in the promo video, drill should be set on #1, and drill mode.  That gives you the correct speed and torque that the angle of the blades are set for.

agree totally

[Agronomist_at_IA]

You guys have any updates.....was thinking of going from a nils 8in to a K-drill 8in.

[3300]

BlackDucksAndBrownDogs
Thanks for the info!

You guys have any updates.....was thinking of going from a nils 8in to a K-drill 8in.

i found this for ya
http://www.fishingbuddy.com/cordless-drill-8-nils-vs-8-kdrill

[Agronomist_at_IA]

BlackDucksAndBrownDogs
Thanks for the info!

i found this for ya
http://www.fishingbuddy.com/cordless-drill-8-nils-vs-8-kdrill

Man checked out that post........the dude is kinda clueless. If he is trying to spin an 8in auger it is going to burn up drills unless he gets a good quality high tourque drill. Trying to use a dewalt brushed drill and a 8in auger is just a little  I ran my 8in nils from dec to the end of the season cut 20 holes an outing on average in 24in of ice no problem. Only reason to move towards a K-Drill would be to reopen holes.

[3300]

yup, i read after posting the link. dudes bonkers and works construction with a dewalt. now that there is funny.

i read a mixed review on how it cuts from one member above saying it cuts more aggresive but he can cut with one hand.

i also read from the link i posted that that nills has two styles, one for hand crank blue flyte with orange ctter head and one for drills orange flighting with a black cutting head.

i see the one in for sale is still there or he hasn't closed the sale. i ask myself any time some one is selling is "why doesn't he want it any more, worn out, bent, not as good as hoped for"? so i opt for new.

did you ever get that rattle rod that hangs from the top tube from the link i gave ya?

[Agronomist_at_IA]

yup, i read after posting the link. dudes bonkers and works construction with a dewalt. now that there is funny.

i read a mixed review on how it cuts from one member above saying it cuts more aggresive but he can cut with one hand.

i also read from the link i posted that that nills has two styles, one for hand crank blue flyte with orange ctter head and one for drills orange flighting with a black cutting head.

i see the one in for sale is still there or he hasn't closed the sale. i ask myself any time some one is selling is "why doesn't he want it any more, worn out, bent, not as good as hoped for"? so i opt for new.

did you ever get that rattle rod that hangs from the top tube from the link i gave ya?

No, I called in after I tried and they had 5 different charges on my two cards I tried. The website kept saying it didn't go through. So I called them and canceled all transactions. Once they are all cleaned off, I plan to call in an order for one. Other wise I might find a conduit bender and make one.

I do know nils has a black bladed drill head. I don't know if it would make a difference or not for a lower end/tourque drill. I never had a problem with my 8in red bladed nils. However I always have used the M18 fuel brushless drill.

[3300]

so i don't know the differences between the two nills, if the black one would give you more of what your looking for or not.
i reopen plenty of holes with my lazers and drill. but then i only use a 6" and a 4". sounds like the k-drill will too.

rattle reel/pole
 you should be able to order one now and if they try to charge for too many you can do a dispute with the credit card issuer. they call it a charge back and that cost about 50$ each. can't do that with a debit card tho.

i would help you make them if you were closer. if you want, i'll make the pipe(s) anyway if you want to cover costs. conduit is some thing like 4$ for 8-10 feet. i have a bender (they cost starting at 35$) and would end up making my self a few while i was at it. if you do make some, you can make them as long/short as you want for your hut and placment. the clips look like otter or eskimos, not shappell. shappells are like a T, but the top of the T is a C (the C is facing upwords) instead and so it would pull straight down. good for forces pushing into it, but not away from it. i would add a top safety strap/loop to keep from loosing it down the hole.
i made spreader bars (3) for my flip for windy days to keep the front onto the ice and for my suitcase shanty (2) to keep the wind from pushing in the wide walls, is why i wanted the bender. no one makes them either. they still don't either, but they should.

[Agronomist_at_IA]

so i don't know the differences between the two nills, if the black one would give you more of what your looking for or not.
i reopen plenty of holes with my lazers and drill. but then i only use a 6" and a 4". sounds like the k-drill will too.

rattle reel/pole
 you should be able to order one now and if they try to charge for too many you can do a dispute with the credit card issuer. they call it a charge back and that cost about 50$ each. can't do that with a debit card tho.

i would help you make them if you were closer. if you want, i'll make the pipe(s) anyway if you want to cover costs. conduit is some thing like 4$ for 8-10 feet. i have a bender (they cost starting at 35$) and would end up making my self a few while i was at it. if you do make some, you can make them as long/short as you want for your hut and placment. the clips look like otter or eskimos, not shappell. shappells are like a T, but the top of the T is a C (the C is facing upwords) instead and so it would pull straight down. good for forces pushing into it, but not away from it. i would add a top safety strap/loop to keep from loosing it down the hole.
i made spreader bars (3) for my flip for windy days to keep the front onto the ice and for my suitcase shanty (2) to keep the wind from pushing in the wide walls, is why i wanted the bender. no one makes them either. they still don't either, but they should.

I'll probably get a conduit bender, it would be handy for lots of fun little projects.

[rjbreese]

@ crispycritter, did you ever get your k-drill ? your last post said shipment delayed due to weather.

@ luv2fish2, how did you like yours?

this topic never went any where.
i am not looking to buy another auger, but wanted to hear more about this thing.

was reading this about it and wondered why one would buy it if not opening old holes out side of an ice house.
sounds like you would need two augers, one for making new ice holes and this one to reopen them.

Here is the ultimate drill assembly designed for hand held cordless electric drills. Using high carbon steel chipper blades, this Drill assembly is designed specifically for re-drilling old holes.

The composite flutes are not designed to throw ice shavings around the inside of your fish house, but instead is designed to make it very easy to remove the ice without getting ice all over the floor.

when you say here is the ultimate drill assembly and reopening old holes are you talking about the k-drill?, i have a permanent and also hole hop and would love to find a drill to do both with my new clam plate/Milwaukee 18v drill set-up

[3300]

when you say here is the ultimate drill assembly and reopening old holes are you talking about the k-drill?, i have a permanent and also hole hop and would love to find a drill to do both with my new clam plate/Milwaukee 18v drill set-up

that was a quote from the manufacturer.

i don't own a k auger and from the sounds of it i don't want one either after reading this post. i can drill over 50 holes with my 6 inch lazer and my 24 volt ridgid drill that is only around 600 inch pounds. i have the new gen5x ridgid that has 782 inch pounds and should make even more holes per battery. i do over lap holes and reopen old holes most of the time and drill bad angles when drilling. with my 4 inch i can almost double the holes.

Here are some results with my K-drill. first time out temperaturere 5 degrees, ice thickness 14" using a ridgid 18V 3.0AH batteries- 8 holes per battery...second time out, 7 degrees, drilled two 24" holes-one battery and didn't move after that. K-drill goes though Ice like butter and is very light. I would recommend the Milwaukee 18V brushless fuel cell drill with the 4.0AH Batteries. IMO---- Let me know what you drill is and how many holes you get and ice thickness. good luck.

only 2 holes holes and puked. thats crazy! i would try a different auger and if its the same or worse, i'd get new batteries as they are free any way. maybe you let them freeze? no wonder you recommend a different brand drill. somethings either wrong with yours or you use froozen batteries. you can get the 4 amp batteries for yours on amazon being the cheapest, but no lifetime warranty, just 3 years like the rest of the stuff on the market.

as for slush in an ice house, i make my holes then slide my shack over/up to the holes or in the pop up i make them inside and push the slush to the wind side walls to block light/wind. in the open, i want the slush to use as a wind barracade on the windy side. i have 3 different shacks, you drill out side for 2 and inside for the other.

and as i said i reopen holes the same as new ice, makes no difference to me, in fact i'd rather reopen a hole than make more un-needed mounds of ice.

just keep fresh/sharp blades on. never push down and maybe lift some instead mostly when breaking thru the bottom of the ice.

[luv2fish2]

i would recommend k drill in 6" i got an 8" i like it,  had a 6" to start with i dunno why i thought i needed an 8" with a 6" you can just drill connecting holes the center point makes it possible plus it makes it open old holes . my 2cents is this was made for a drill not a converted hand auger it's got very agressive chipper blades that can easily be resharpened ( no weird angles ) and its super light only bad thing i've found is the price everything else rocks i  tried almost every other auger settled on this with a milwaukee 18 volt fuel hammer drill pricey but you know what they say about men and boy's it's the price of the toys oh yeah i use a clam plate also my choice but if ya wanna go light drop it not slammin anyone else just answering about k drill still lemme know any other questions good luck

[rjbreese]

thanks luv2 fish...I am going with the k-drill now, made up my mind...just cant decide whether to go with an 8 or not??? leaning toward the 6" fish with a 8" always now and hate to downsize??? man I cant make up my mind do a lot of re-drilling holes in my permy and don't know if the 8 will be good for that? any experience re-drilling with the 8?

[Jeffh129]

Looking for an electric system. How does the K drill compare to an ION Electric?