MyFishFinder.com Just like iceshanty but warmer
Took it to the shop. I only use non E fuel. The Tech checked for water in my fuel (none) then he pulled out the spark plug. It was soaked with gas. He shot in some carb cleaner, buttoned her back up and gave it a start. It sounded horrid but smoothed out quick. His best guess is it was well flooded. I kept it idle all the way home and cut the fuel off until is died.He suggested a few things to me. One was to shut the fuel valve off and let it putter out like a generator when I'm done using it for the day.He also wanted me to make sure I kept the line shut when transporting in the trailer. Last was to pump the first gallon of gas into my truck before filling my gas can. High chance of the last guy pumping e85 in his car. This method should make sure you only get the nonE.What do you all think?
Sometimes with a stuck float condition it will fill up the engine oil/block with gas also.i always turn off the fuel petcock when not running small engines.briggs are notorious for stuck needles or float.
I recently bought a Compact 13hp and I am just getting the hang of how everything works. does anyone have recommendations for ramps to load into a truck bed? if so maybe some pictures. Thx in Advance
Thanks for the help. I will check the oil in the morning and grab some seafoam. Maybe that will help with the hard start
On the Briggs & Stratton official site they have some good info regarding fuel recommendations, storage and basic maintenance for their small engines. 90% of hard starting when cold are caused by poor fuel that has degraded over time. I use nothing but 91 octane Non Ethanol fuel in my dog and in all my other small engines and I treat every gallon with stabilizer. I prefer Sea Foam but most small engine companies have their own brands of fuel conditioners. Gasoline that is purchased in 5 gallon jugs at the fuel station and then left sitting around for 30, 60, 90 + days is a recipe for disaster. Gasoline left in your small tank for long periods is even more of a problem. Condensation is the most notable culprit and when the ambient temperature outside and in your storage area goes up and down the fuel in the tanks take much longer to acclimate to these changes and this causes condensation or Water in your fuel. B&S states that jug fuel begins to degrade after only 30 days and you can be very sure it is less for the fuel in your tiny tank. Ethanol fuel degrades much faster than pure gas but Non E gas is not available in many places. Use stabilizers recommended by the manufacturer and in almost all cases drain old fuel that has been in the motor's tank for more than 90 days before you even attempt to start it. B&S sells a fuel and oil pump out kit for around $30 and it is perfect for doing oil changes without the need to remove the drain plug and get oil all over the machine and floor. It also works perfect for suctioning the stale fuel from the gas tank.I keep my 13.5 Standard Snowdog inside an enclosed snowmobile trailer year around. I use only 91 octane Non ethanol fuel in it and always treat the full 5 gallon jug with a few ounces of Sea Foam stabilizer. I also keep the battery on a very tiny trickle charger designed for AGM batteries. I have never experienced a hard start issue with my Snowdog since I found a source for non ethanol fuel. I also rotate all the fuel I buy in 5 gallon jugs right into my car after around 90 days from the date of purchase and go buy fresh fuel for the small engines. This is not rocket science but it is science, fuel deteriorates over time and in this process it both loses its octane or BTU rating and can attract moisture from normal condensation caused by temperature changes. On a very hot summer day I can open my cooler dark shed and the metal tank on my motorcycle is wet on the outside and you can be sure it is also wet on the inside. Once your ethanol fuel has gone through what is termed as "Phase Separation" it is absolutely no good to run through your engine or carb. Some say to run the carb dry by shutting off the fuel petcock and letting it run until it dies from fuel starvation. Others say leave the carb wet with fuel but turn off the fuel petcock. That is your choice. Some say to drain the fuel tank for long storage while others say fill it completely with stabilized fuel. Again, your choice and what ever floats your boat. After the ice season last April I filled my tank with non ethanol 91 fuel and double treated it with stabilizer. 7 months later in November while getting ready for ice fishing and just to prove to myself I fired my Snowdog up and it jumped to life real quick. Then I drained the old fuel out and replaced it with fresh treated non E gas just so I don't have trouble out far on a frozen lake. One problem I have had and I can't explain is if I fail to turn off the fuel petcock I have seen fuel leaking from the carb overflow. This means the float needle valve is stuck and not fully closing to shut off the fuel going to the carb. I suspect this has something to do with the changes in temperatures so out of precaution I always shut off the petcock after every use.For those who have hard starting issues and who have replaced the stale gas with fresh and still have hard start issues I recommend you clean the carb and completely drain every ounce of old gas from the tank. When you remove the float bowl if done carefully you will probably find a white milky substance in the bottom. That is Phase Separated and moisture laced stale fuel. I drain my fuel into a clean white plastic pail and allow it to settle for an hour or two. In the bottom I can see the evidence of water in my fuel and if it is a metal gas tank from my motorcycle I can also see tiny rust particles from the inside of the metal tank.I hope this helps some of you and I am pretty sure there will be a few who disagree with my opinions here. That's fine too because after dealing with this stuff for well over 50 years your arguments with my advice will most certainly fall on deaf ears. Every one of my small engines run just fine as long as I follow my own directions. You name it, Chain saws, Ice augers, Lawn mowers, Weed Eaters, Pressure washers, Snowdogs and snowmobiles, Roto tillers, ATVs, generators and transfer pumps all start right up with just a few pulls or a couple presses on the electric start buttons and I have not had to rebuild or even clean a carb since switching to Non ethanol fuel.Gam
Star Tron, or Sta-Bil works for me. And is way less of a pain to locate and expensive than ethanol free fuel.
Just wanted to share an update, the dog is as refined as it’s ever been. I’m now standing or sitting directly in my two man flip behind the homedog. It’s slow, climbs Ontop the snow and is very mobile. Loving every minuite of it. Getting thumps up from basically everyone I drive past.
what sled was your donor?
Was scanning the net and came across an ice fishing specific Vehicle called a "Wilcraft"? It even floats! I like it better than my dog. Priced out of my league though.I own both a snowdog compact 13, and a 2014 Wilcraft, they each have there place I use the Wilcraft until the snow gets to deep then it's time for the snowdog. Wilcraft is unbeatable on early or late ice will run on 1 1/2 inch of ice and you can float open water and get to the ice.
Was scanning the net and came across an ice fishing specific Vehicle called a "Wilcraft"? It even floats! I like it better than my dog. Priced out of my league though.
I use 1oz to 1 gallon of gas.. Here you go for more.... https://seafoamsales.com/knowledge-base/how-to-use-sea-foam-in-fuel/
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Topic: Snow Dog Track Sled (Read 112920 times)
