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Hello all, you may have been following the great discussion and progress in the Making Tip-ups with the Boy Scouts thread I started a couple of weeks ago http://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=102551.0 (http://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=102551.0).
Now I am ready to document the entire build procedure I used for my tip-ups. There are many other great ideas in the other thread so please check there if you get stuck and need some ideas. Otherwise, feel free to post your suggestions, ideas and questions in this thread.
I will post the construction details as a series posts over the next several days - I need to take photos, etc to go along with the text, so please be patient! When this series is complete, I will create a single PDF document with drawings, photos and instructions and post it on my blog for people to download (www.eclecticguy.com (http://www.eclecticguy.com)).
So, here we go...
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(http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/v4/p110983884-10.jpg)
A traditional ice fishing tip-up is composed of several sub assemblies. First is the frame, which consists of a vertical upright and 2 cross braces. The cross braces suspend the upright in the hole bored in the ice. The upright has a reel, the trip rod and the flag assemblies attached to it. It really is that simple.
The reel contains the fishing line and is submersed under water. This is to keep the wet line from freezing. As long as the water in the hole is not frozen, the line on your reel wont be either!
The flag is bent over and attached to the triggering device. When the device is triggered - by a fish taking the bait - the reel trips the trip wire which then releases the flag. The flag pops up, making it visible from a distance. Out on the ice, you will hear fishermen yell FLAG! when this happens.
The trip wire is contained in a length (8 to 15 or so) of rigid tubing. This tube is typically filled with a low temperature grease. Lithium greases work well for this or you can get special tip-up grease. The purpose of the tube is to protect the trip wire from freezing up if the hole skims over with ice. The ice will freeze to the tube, but the trip wire will still be able to freely rotate within it.
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The following posts will provide instructions that will show you how to build an inexpensive tip-up from common hardware store and found (i.e. recycled!) materials. Critical dimensions and special considerations are called out, as well as possible substitutions. Ive tried to keep the required tools to a minimum.
You can use these construction plans to quickly build functional tips-ups (e.g. using low cost lumber with no finish, steel hardware, soup can lid reel) or splurge a bit and create a work of art (e.g. using an attractive hardwood like mahogany with a varnish finish, stainless steel hardware, a purchased reel). Ill leave the choice up to you, they will all catch fish!
It is much faster to build a set of tip-ups at the same time since you can use an assembly line approach. Check your local ice fishing regulations for the number of tip-ups you can use. Here in Massachusetts, I can use 5 tip-ups when I fish. The tip-up shown in the following photos took less than an hour to build (except for the time to allow the Linseed Oil to dry).
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Materials for 1 Tip-Up
Frame
1 wooden upright - 24 long, from 5/8 to 1 square
2 wooden cross braces - 20 long, from 5/8 to 1 square
2 steel stove bolts - 8-32 by 2
2 steel wing nuts - 8-32
4 steel washers - size #8
2 plastic washers - 1/2 diameter, made from milk bottle
finishing materials (linseed oil, spar varnish)
Flag
1 flag wand - 22-24 long windshield wiper steel (disassemble a used wiper)
3 blued staples - 3/8, size #5
1 lumber yard plastic flag or equivalent
contact cement
Trip Wire
1 trip wire - 3 of stiff music wire (or equivalent) (I used .070 music wire)
1 tube - 15 by 1/8 ID styrene, plastic, aluminum or brass tube
3 blued staples - 3/8, size #5
low temp lithium grease
Reel
1 steel stove bolt (handle) - 8-32 by 3/4
1 steel stove bolt (trip) - 8-32 by 1/2
1 steel stove bolt (axel) - 8-32 by 3
5 steel nuts - 8-32
7 steel washers - #8
2 soup can lids
1 long by 1 diameter hardwood dowel rod
2 plastic washers - 1/2 diameter, made from milk bottle
1 of 1 section of heat shrink tube
1 5/8 plastic spacer (soda straw works well)
Tools
pliers
needle nose pliers with wire cutters
hammer
screw driver
electric drill (or drill press)
1/8 drill
1/16 drill
hobby knife (like an X-acto knife)
fine tooth file or emery cloth
I was able to purchase all of the materials at my local hardware store and a local hobby shop (plastic/brass tube and trip wire).
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The frame is constructed of wood, but an inventive builder could use PVC pipe or other materials. I built the frame in the construction photos from a piece of maple that I scavenged from an old shipping pallet. I used a table saw to rip it in to 5/8 square sticks. This would be tricky to do with a hand saw but it can be done. You can use any type of wood; pine, oak, mahogany, maple, etc. A leftover piece of decking mahogany or hardwood flooring would make a great frame! Even hardwood tomato stakes from the local hardware store can be used. Pine would be my last choice because it is soft and may not last as long.
Most purchased lumber is dimensioned to 3/4 thick. Simply rip this into 3/4 wide strips and you have the materials for your frame. Many lumber yards have a cutting service and may do this for you. Check with your woodworking friends too, they might be happy to help - especially if you take them ice fishing when your tip-ups are complete.
(http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/v5/p748977760-3.jpg)
Follow the Frame Layout in Figure 1 to cut the upright and cross braces to length. Although I made the upright 24 long, you can make yours longer if you would like the reel to extend further below water level or the flag to extend higher above the ice. The top of the upright is cut at a 45° angle to allow the flag wand to be stored properly. I like to leave a short flat spot on the top of the upright as seen in the figure and photo above.
(http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/v5/p43401907-3.jpg)
Figure 1
See the full size drawing here: http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/v5/p43401907.jpg (http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/v5/p43401907.jpg)
The cross braces are each 20 long but, again, you can vary the length to make them shorter or longer as you choose. The critical factor is that they span the ice hole to prevent the tip-up from falling in and being dragged away by that trophy Lake Trout! You do want to make sure that the cross braces can fold properly and not bump into the reel (see Figure 1).
After the frame members are cut to length, you can round over the edges and sand them if you would like (I used a small round-over bit in my router on all of the long edges).
Now its time to drill the holes for the frame pivots and reel axel. All holes are 1/8 if you are using 8-32 stove bolts (otherwise, size your holes to match your hardware). Lets start with the upright. If you use my dimensions (24 long), then you will drill 2 holes in the same face. This will be the side adjacent to the 45° angled cut you made at the top. The 1st hole, for the reel axel, is located 1.25 up from the bottom of the upright. Drill the 2nd hole, for the cross brace, 14 up from the bottom of the upright.
NOTE: These positions allow the reel to extend 12 3/4 down from the cross braces. If you are making your upright longer and would like the reel to extend deeper, adjust the location of the cross brace hole accordingly.
The cross braces have different hole layouts. These are parts Cross Brace A and Cross Brace B in Figure 1. They will both have an 1/8 hole drilled at their half-way point (10 from either end if you use my dimensions of 20 long). Drill this hole in both cross braces first. Set aside Cross Brace A - it is done!
Cross Brace B needs to have another hole drilled on the adjoining face (either side is fine) about 1 from the center hole. I say about because this hole needs to take into account a) the width of your cross braces and uprights, b) the diameter of the trip tube and c) a little extra clearance of 1/8. For the example frame, 1 away was just right. See Figure 2 for more details.
(http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p380241893-3.jpg)
Figure 2
See the full size image here: http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p380241893.jpg (http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p380241893.jpg)
You can use a short section of a cutoff frame member to drill holes to test the fit. If you are not sure of your trip wire tube diameter, you can drill this hole later after you have everything assembled.
At this point, it is a good idea to apply finish to your tip-ups. You can use them as-is but even a simple coating of boiled Linseed Oil rubbed in to the wood will protect the wood, make it easier to remove from the ice, and look attractive. I like to rub in 2 coats of Linseed Oil, allow that to air dry for a day, and then apply a thin coat of Marine Spar Varnish. The wood in Figure 2 has only had Linseed Oil applied.
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Awesome, I bet that was a good project for the boys, I know I'll have fun building :tipup: Thanks
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Electric Guy,
I have enjoyed reading your thread with the boy scouts and now this one. You should write instruction manuals ,one of the best description of a tip-up I have ever read plus the photographs.
Please post pictures of the boy scouts making and fishing with their tip-ups.
Steve
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The trip wire is the trickiest assembly to make, but it isnt that difficult once you understand how it works. The trip wire is usually held in a tube that protects it from freezing - which would prevent it from working. The important thing is that the trip wire is stiff enough to perform its duties and can rotate freely in the tube. You dont want the fit in the tube too tight, a bit oversize is best because you will fill the tube with grease to prevent freeze-up. Figure 3 is a photo of trip wire and tube assembly:
(http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/v0/p428124781-3.jpg)
Figure 3
I used .070 music wire that is commonly available at hobby shops. It comes in 3 lengths. You can also use 1/8 (0.125) steel rod, brazing or welding rod. You could even use a wire coat hanger by carefully straightening it.
For the tube, a common soda straw works fine, although it is a bit big and not very stiff. Hobby shops carry plastic, aluminum and brass tubing in 12 or 15 lengths. FInd a diameter that lets your trip wire freely rotate. I used plastic (styrene) tube with an inside dimension (ID) of 1/8. It came in a pack of 8 and is 15 long. Feel free to make substitutions for the tube.
The trip wire is bent at both ends as shown in Figure 4 and Figure 6. It is important to bend the top (trip wire hook end) angled bends first since they are more complex. Once these are complete, the tube is slid in to place and the lower bends (simply two 90° bends) are made. This locks the tube in to place. The following instructions will walk you through the process.
Start with a piece of wire at least 20 long (for a 24 upright as shown here). Follow along with the steps shown in Figure 4.
Trip Wire Hook End
(http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p127509162-3.jpg)
Figure 4
See the full size drawing here: http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p127509162.jpg (http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p127509162.jpg)
Step 1: Make a 90° bend 2 from one end of the wire. Use a pair of needle nose pliers and grip the wire below the bend. Push the 2 piece that protrudes above the pliers with your thumb until you get a nice bend.
Step 2: The bend shown in Step 2 is made in order for the flag holder to clear the wooden upright when the tip-up is tripped. The short straight section before the bend must be long enough for the 45° bent section to rotate without hitting the upright. In general, the length of this straight section should be 1/2 the thickness of your upright plus a little extra (~ 1/8 is fine). (You can always cut a notch in the corner of the upright later if you make a mistake.)
Step 3: Still looking down from the top, you make a sharp bend about 1/2 from the 45° bend you made in Step 2. This creates the straight section that the hook on the end of the flag wand catches. Grasp the wire with the tips of your needle nose pliers and bend the protruding end around them - this creates a nice little curved section that provides a little extra clearance for the flag wand.
Step 4: Finally, trim the hook end so it is about 1/2 long. You can use a fine tooth file or fine emery cloth to de-bur and polish the end of the cut wire. Figure 5 shows the completed hook end.
(http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/v5/p201202305-3.jpg)
Figure 5
Trip Wire Trip End
(http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/v2/p510382788-3.jpg)
Figure 6
See the full size drawing here: http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/v2/p510382788.jpg (http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/v2/p510382788.jpg)
With the hook end of the trip wire bent to shape, you can slip the trip tube on to the wire shaft. If your tube is plastic, you might want to put a small metal washer on first, then the tube, and finally, another washer. A small washer cut from a plastic milk bottle can reduce friction on brass, copper, steel or aluminum tubes.
Follow along with the steps in Figure 6 to bend the trip end.
Step 1: Figure 6, Step 1 simply shows what the trip wire will look like as you sight down from the top. It should help you understand the relationship of the trip end to the hook end - they are at 90° to each other. Once you understand this, proceed to Step 2.
Step 2: Grasp the trip wire right where it exits the trip tube. Make sure to leave a little clearance (1/8 or so). Make a 90° bend - making sure to align it as shown in Step 1.
Step 3: Make the final 90° bend 5/8 from the previous bend.
Step 4: Finally, trim the trip end so that it is 1 1/4 long. Polish and de-bur the end with a fine file or emery cloth.
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The flag is the easiest assembly to make. It consists of a flag wand (a strip of spring steel) and a flag. The flag wand was salvaged from a used windshield wiper blade. The blade I used was a 24 AMCO wiper blade. Each wiper blade provides 2 flag wands, so this might be a good time to replace those worn wipers on your vehicle so you have enough wands to make 4 traps! I recommend using at least 20 wands and 24 are the best. Ask your local auto repair, quick oil change, or auto parts store if they have - or can save- any old wipers for you. I have a pile obtained from my local parts store.
(http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p883180219-3.jpg)
Figure 7
Figure 7 shows a wiper blade and the 2 strips of spring steel removed from its mate. Removing the steel strips requires a pair of needle nose pliers. One or both ends of the steel strip have a little retaining tab held in place by the wiper frame. Simply bend the frame retainer out of the way and the rubber blade and steel backing strips will slide out. Remove the steel strips from the rubber and you have 2 flag wands.
I used a 3 by 5 piece of plastic cut from a red lumber yard flag - these are the flags they staple to your lumber if it extends past the rear of your vehicle. I cut the rectangle with a pair of scissors. You can also use construction site tape or any other brightly colored plastic. I noticed that my local hardware has site marking flags attached to a soft steel wire in 8 different highly visible colors for 15 cents each. The wire is not useful for this project but the flag is.
(http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p715681248-3.jpg)
Figure 8
See full size drawing here: http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p715681248.jpg (http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p715681248.jpg)
Figure 8 shows how to bend the top of the flag wand.
Step 1: Bend the end at a 45° angle about 5/8 long.
Step 2: Bend a little lip - about 1/8 long - at the end of the wand. This section should be parallel to the main shaft of the flag wand.
Figure 5 above shows what the completed bends look like.
The lower end of the flag wand has a slight bend to help retain it in the flag holder. See Figure 9 for details.
(http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p693927243-3.jpg)
Figure 9
See full size drawing here: http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p693927243.jpg (http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p693927243.jpg)
Finally, attach the flag to the wand with contact cement. I roughed up the surface of the wand with emery cloth to help the cement adhere. Figure 10 shows the location for the flag. Apply a 1/2 wide line of cement along the short edge of the flag. Follow the instructions on the cement tube/can. Most contact cements need to dry for a few minutes before attaching. When the cement is ready, attach the flag as shown at the bottom of Figure 10.
(http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p720769871-3.jpg)
Figure 10
See full size drawing here: http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p720769871.jpg (http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p720769871.jpg)
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Only 2 more sections to go - the reel and final assembly. I am going skiing (and maybe a bit of ice fishing) with my family in Maine this weekend so I probably won't be able to finish this up until next week. If you are in a hurry, you can probably figure out these remaining sections by looking at the photos and reading through the thread at http://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=102551.0 (http://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=102551.0).
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Awesome nowlets see some pics of the kids catch. :tipup:
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well done EclecticGuy, definately one of the most worthy and valuable threads I have ever seen on any forum
Thanks
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Great great posts, but with such a specific list of parts needed for the tipup, I can't imagine that it would be much smarter making them instead of buying even the more expensive ones. I just try to use what's on hand. Last time I made one with such a design, I used a stick I found in the forest, some wire I found in the closet for both the flag and the main shaft wire, a little fishing line spool for the reel and some nuts and bolts that I found in the closet again.
Didn't cost me anything but I sure did spend a while trying to make it all work. With your setup it wouldn't take long to assemble it, but I wonder the total cost of each tip up if you went somewhere like Home Depot to buy all the parts.. Have any idea?
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Nice Job! will have to build some with my boys
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eyesfishing, a couple of points to keep in mind. I do state in my 3rd post that you can use any suitable alternatives and even offer substitutions for almost every part the tip up is made of!
The following posts will provide instructions that will show you how to build an inexpensive tip-up from common hardware store and found (i.e. recycled!) materials. Critical dimensions and special considerations are called out, as well as possible substitutions. Ive tried to keep the required tools to a minimum.
You can use these construction plans to quickly build functional tips-ups (e.g. using low cost lumber with no finish, steel hardware, soup can lid reel) or splurge a bit and create a work of art (e.g. using an attractive hardwood like mahogany with a varnish finish, stainless steel hardware, a purchased reel). Ill leave the choice up to you, they will all catch fish!
The total parts cost for 1 tip-up as described in the materials list was $2.75. I purchased all hardware from my local ACE Hardware and the plastic tube and trip wire from a local hobby shop. If you choose to use a common soda straw or some other alternative tube and use a clothes hanger or purchase a 1/8" welding wire from ACE, it would be even cheaper. The wood was found material (in my case, from a salvaged shipping pallet). A 6' 1 by 8 board provides material for 5 tip-ups. My local Home Depot had an oak 1 by 8 by 6' board for $8.50. That adds $1.70 per tip-up, or a total cost of $4.45 each.
One of the primary reasons I designed and wrote this set of posts was to get people's creative juices going so they can substitute whatever materials they have available. I spent $12.99 for several cheep tip-ups of a similar design from a name-brand manufacturer and there is no comparison to the difference in quality between my home made ones and those (mine being higher).
The time to build 5 tip-ups start to finish (not including drying time for the varnish finish I used) was 3 hours and 15 minutes - and that included disassembling the crate, ripping them, planning the rough sides, and routing all the long edges with a round-over bit in the router! Preparing the wood was by fart the most time consuming part for me. If you used lumber yard wood, there would be some time savings. Making 5 tip-ups at once also save a lot of time since you can complete each operation on all 5 tip-ups, assembly line style. That comes out to less than 40 minutes per tip-up. Buying the board would save about 10 minutes each. The prototype pictured here took longer - about an hour - because I was taking photos and measurements to use in these posts.
Is building a tip-up for everyone? Absolutely not. But for those who have the desire or just want a fun project, these posts will get them started.
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Great great posts, but with such a specific list of parts needed for the tipup, I can't imagine that it would be much smarter making them instead of buying even the more expensive ones. I just try to use what's on hand. Last time I made one with such a design, I used a stick I found in the forest, some wire I found in the closet for both the flag and the main shaft wire, a little fishing line spool for the reel and some nuts and bolts that I found in the closet again.
Didn't cost me anything but I sure did spend a while trying to make it all work. With your setup it wouldn't take long to assemble it, but I wonder the total cost of each tip up if you went somewhere like Home Depot to buy all the parts.. Have any idea?
From my perspective, the desire to build these has nothing to do with ease or cost. It has everything to do with spending great time with my little guy. He loves to do things like this. Cost of time involved - expensive.... Cost of Materials - expensive.....Thoughts of my boy catching fish with these tip ups long after I am gone - Priceless
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You're right, I overlooked that aspect of making them yourself. But just out of curiousity, do you know how much it would cost to buy all those parts in home depot or a similar store?
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EclecticGuy priced his out at $2.75 per tip up in hardware costs. Having to buy the wood brings it up a couple of bucks. I think the time and effort to gather the goods would be the biggest drawback. I am sure you are right that when all the driving and such is done, the cheapest way to get a good trap is to probably go out and buy one.
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You're right, I overlooked that aspect of making them yourself. But just out of curiousity, do you know how much it would cost to buy all those parts in home depot or a similar store?
He figured that to be about 4.45 each I believe. Stated in the last post. The point is making something with your hands and not buying products assembled in Taiwan. Cheapest I have seen were 7.99 each for even close to the quality he is getting for 4.45. Plus teaching young people that it isn't always go buy something. Look around and see what is at your disposal to use, and the fun getting together with friends to work on a project can be.
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Yes $4.45 sounds more reasonable, and I am NOT arguing against the making it yourself part because that is the mindset I have for most things that have to do with my hobbies. However the cheapest tipups I have ever seen for sale and bought 3 of each cost $3.49. So they are basically dirt cheap and have exactly all the parts and the same construction as the ones that are made here in the US. Of course the reel is made of cheap plastic and the wood isn't exactly Sequoia, but if you're careful with it, as in if you don't band on it with a chisel, and if you are using it as you should, it works like a charm.
I actually have been making several super ultra light jigging poles myself, and the last one that I finished making looks like this:
(http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/8481/23642048hn9.jpg)
It is made out of some plastic, 2 disposeable cups, some rope, some thread, a piece of dogbane pithed wood, epoxy glue, amazing goop glue, guitar string, drinking straw, isolation from a copper wire, wine bottle cork, some reflective sticky paper for the very tip and the most expensive thing is the 2 lb. test Trilene Micro Ice.
By the way, the reel actually works and I can now wind on line! This is the 4th prototype that I've been making and the last one could almost reel line in, but it didn't quite work.
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There are many options for the reel - or spool - on your tip-ups. One approach is to buy some commercial plastic spools. They work fine and are not that expensive (generally less than $2 each). However, I wanted to be even more frugal than that! I designed the reel for this tip-up to use soup can lids - yes, you heard me right!
Several companies make special can openers that remove the top of the can under the steel rim. They are usually marketed as safe can openers because they do not leave any sharp edges on the can or lid. I like to use these lids as small parts trays or to mix epoxy or paints in, so I have a stack of them in my shop. The can openers can be purchased for $10-15, so they will quickly pay for themselves. Figure 11 shows a side view of a lid removed with one of these openers. You can clearly see the lip.
(http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/v4/p699201408-3.jpg)
Figure 11
Two soup can lids are used for the side pieces of the reel. A trip nub (small flat head bolt) attached to one of these side pieces, an optional handle attached to the other side piece, a hub, and an axel complete the reel assembly. The reel must spin freely but not wobble since that may prevent the nub from activating the trip wire.
First, obtain 2 soup can (or tuna can) lids and make sure they are clean and dry. Find the center point and mark it with a punch or nail. Drill a 1/8 hole in the center of both can lids. The inside part of the can lid will be the inside of the reel - this insures that the raised rim on the lid is outside and cant interfere with or cut the fishing line (see Figure 11).
Drill another 1/8 hole about 1/2 in from the edge on each lid. These holes will be used for the small flat head bolts that form the trip nub and handle. In order to recess the heads of the nub and handle flat head bolts, you will use one of them to punch a depression in the holes you drilled close to the can rim. Drill a 1/4 hole through a piece of scrap wood to use as a support. Push the flat head bolt through the hole in the can lid with the head on the inside. Lay the scrap wood with the 1/4 hole on your workbench and position the protruding part of the bolt in to the hole. Use a hammer to gently tap the bolt head to create a conical depression in the can lid. You want to create a depression deep enough to prevent the bolt head from sticking above the surface and snagging your fishing line. I found it easiest to use a short piece of 1/4 dowel rod as a punch. Position one end of the dowel on the bolt head and tap on the other end. It shouldnt take much effort to make a recess for the bolt head. Recess the holes closest to the can edge on both lids.
Now lets move on to the hub. I used 1 dowel rod to make mine. You could use an old broom stick or any other round wood rod from 3/4 to 1 1/2 in diameter. You will need a 1 long section. Find the center point and drill a 1/8 hole for the axel through the dowel. This is easiest on a drill press but can be done with a hand drill too. One trick is to bore 1/2 way from one side, flip the dowel and drill the rest of the way from the back side. The 2 holes meet in the middle. Now is a good time to varnish the hub - and make sure to drip some varnish down the axel hole.
You now have the makings for your reel. To assemble it, first install the 1/2 8-32 flat head bolt (trip nub) on one of the can lids. The head will be on the inside of the reel and fit in the depression you made earlier. Use a nut and a #8 steel washer on the other side. Tighten snugly. This will be the nub side of the reel. On the other can lid, assemble the 3/4 8-32 flat head bolt (handle) with a nut and washer. You can cover the protruding threads of this bolt with a short section of heat shrink tubing if youd like.
Using the 3 8-32 stove bolt, place a #8 washer on it then the lid with the handle. Make sure the handle faces outward! Next, slip on the wood hub and the other can lid with the trip nub facing out. Add another #8 washer and a nut. Position the handle and trip nub opposite from each other - this helps balance the reel - and tighten the nut on the bolt to lock everything in to place.
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The reel eyesfishing shows on his ultralight jigging pole in the post above looks like another good alternative for a reel.
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Next up, final assembly! I am working on the photos for that now and should have it posted tonight.
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Interesting stuf eclectic guy. I thought I was the only one making fishing equipment from garbage!
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One man's garbage is another man's tip-up! :tipup:
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Awsome project and a great job by both you and your son. These look as good as any tipup I have seen. My big concern to this is the hub assembly. When you put wood into water no mater what is done with it it will swell. Now you stated you don't wish to have a reel that wobbles my suggestion would be to get some small aluminum tubing from a hobby store (or the same place you got the trip tubing) with a 1/8" inside dia to fit the bolt for the axle either get a drill to fit the outside dia or ream it with a round file insert the tube trim flush with can lids the lightly lube with the low temp lube insert the bolt and good to go. The aluminum cuts easy with a small tubing cutter if you insert something into it so it doesnt crimp the end. Even a short piece of brake or fuel line from a auto store would work as a bushing. Also if you wish use stainless bolt for the underwater hardwater. Yes a little more pricey but no rust.
Just a suggestion
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Thanks cold_feet. If you notice, the reel is bolted to the axel and does not actually rotate around it. I did this for exactly the reason you site. Basically, it is securely hastened to the axel and the axel spins in the upright. But your point is valid since the upright is made of wood too! So far we have not had a problem but different woods, etc might be more problematic The same white plastic tube I used for the trigger assembly could be used for the bushing in the upright.
Cheers!
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EclecticGuy, I'm really anxious to see some more pictures of the finished product. Especially the reel assembly and how it works on your tip ups because that's the most difficult part for me. I noticed you can photograph well too, you're tutorials should be stickied.
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Sorry for the delay eyesfishing! That thing called "work" got in the way. I will try to get the final segment done this week.
Cheers!
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Man I wish I could still view these pictures!
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Were the final steps ever posted? Thanks!
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Thanks for this post ElecticGuy. I have made 2 so far. I just cannot wait to use them.
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Just bringing this post back up as this would be a great project for those waiting for ice (Most of us this year).
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Great project to do with my grandsons. Thank you for taking the time to make all the posts.
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Two thumbs up for this outstanding tutorial and the plans. I would add a few thoughts of my own.
When I first started learning the art of woodworking I noticed that many beginners had a similar motto, "We do things right because we do things twice". If you plan to invest the time, efforts and cost into building your own traps then do it right the first time. If you spend the extra time and $$$ from the start you will have a set of tip ups that can last for generations and become heirlooms.
I sure can appreciate the budget minded who cut corners and use much cheaper parts but I would not go this route when I figure in my time and efforts. I had a bunch of leftover Teak wood from other projects so I used it for my tip up build. Teakwood is very stable around a marine environment as is Mahogany. I bought all high quality parts that I could find, SS fasteners, plastic or Aluminum spools, Aluminum or SS trip tubes from either Heritage or Jack Trap if you can source these parts. Building with the highest quality parts did in fact run the finished cost up to and maybe more than I could buy the tip ups for from either company. The project was certainly Time Intensive in the end but well worth it IMO. I spent a few months sourcing all the stuff and cutting all the sticks from my stockpile of Teakwood. When I had some spare time I worked an hour here and an hour there until I had all the parts ready to go for the final assembly. I did not have the great plans found here so it was a bit of hit and miss along the way while copying from existing tip ups that I already had. As is often the case with lots of my woodworking projects, once a few buddies or others see the finished product they tend to need them more than I do and start bidding to buy them. I don't even remember who it was but out on the ice while fishing a complete stranger eyed my tip ups and started asking lots of questions. At the end of that day after I got all picked up and ready to head home that guy came over and asked if I would sell the set of 5 tip ups to him. At first I said No but he was pretty intent on going home with them as a gift for his son who was about to graduate from medical school and he did have a pocket full of cash. On the drive home I did have some regret for having sold them but when I got home I had more than enough money to buy a full set of super nice Oak Jack Traps that arrived a week later ready to fish.