Author Topic: Problem with flasher  (Read 3334 times)

Offline ice dawg

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Re: Problem with flasher
« Reply #30 on: Dec 22, 2009, 12:38 PM »
Try sitting your flasher on a table and hanging the transducer a couple of feet from a hard floor or concrete. Turn the gain up until you get a bottom reading. It will show your depth quite a bit deeper than your distance from the floor. This will tell you if the transducer is ok.
It seems to go from zero to hero all some have to do is lie.

Offline 100% Waterproof

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Re: Problem with flasher
« Reply #31 on: Dec 22, 2009, 12:48 PM »
I've pretty much done that with it not showing me the floor at all. I don't get a reading for anything other than the 0 value. I took it apart and am ready to sound it through. I don't really know how to verify that the ducer itself is working or not.

Offline DasRottweiler

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Re: Problem with flasher
« Reply #32 on: Dec 22, 2009, 01:02 PM »
 From reading the previous posts, the problem is indeed the ducer. If it ain`t clicking audibly , it ain`t working. The dry test hanging the ducer above a hard floor resulting in no bottom reading. Again the ducer ain`t working. Either the ducer wiring has a cut /kink or bad end at either end or the ducer itself is shot.
Find yourself a used ducer and wire your units plug to it. It`ll probably work. You can mix/match ducers from different units. Take the advice someone gave = ifya can`t find a used one and get her up and running, upgrade to a better machine instead of buying a new ducer. However if yer a good scrounger , you may be able to salvage the unit.

Offline ice dawg

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Re: Problem with flasher
« Reply #33 on: Dec 22, 2009, 01:26 PM »
One of the best ways that I know of to test a transducer it to turn the flasher on, turn the gain about half way up and rub the face of the transducer on a flannel shirt. It will flash all around the dial. I think something wool would work ok also.
It seems to go from zero to hero all some have to do is lie.

Offline Scott Steil

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Re: Problem with flasher
« Reply #34 on: Dec 22, 2009, 02:49 PM »
Nice, you don't see those everyday...nice find!!

Offline Nor Easter

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Re: Problem with flasher
« Reply #35 on: Dec 22, 2009, 03:00 PM »
Ain't worth a hill o' beans unless it works.

Did you try cleaning the male transducer plug and/or maybe spraying WD-40 on the plug, reinserting it, turning it and jiggling it around a bit?

In your picture there is a right angle plug where the printed word 'Transducer' is. Pull that out, clean it if rusty, put some WD on it or a drop or 2 of oil, any friggen oil, sewing machine, 4-in-1, anything but the cooking types. Try a Scotch Brite pad on it.
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Offline 100% Waterproof

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Re: Problem with flasher
« Reply #36 on: Dec 22, 2009, 03:04 PM »
That right angle plug goes in and out easily, and does not have any rust on it at all, because it is new..

I don't see how WD-40 or any other kind of hydrophobic substance would help establish better contact as it has always been said to wipe contacts with things like rubbing alcohol and not oil. I have a multimeter, but how should I test the ducer and its wire for continuity? Using the plug, I presume, but how exactly?

Offline Nor Easter

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Re: Problem with flasher
« Reply #37 on: Dec 22, 2009, 03:26 PM »
Yay! The man speaks of possessing test equipment!  :)

Tip/Sleeve on the plug. Just set the multimeter to some low ohm setting for resistance and place one lead on each part of the plug. The needle, or the digital readout should show you some value. I'm going to guess wildly here but say, something like 100 ohms? Someone with a similar unit could now check theirs to confirm a ballpark value.

If you leave the resistance setting to a high setting for meg ohms, you'll probably end up measuring your own body's resistance through your fingers which is somewhere in the ballpark of 30-60 meg. Wet/dry. So you don't want that reading. Use Rx1, Rx100 or Rx1K if there is such settings choices.

What do you have for a meter? What is the voltage of each battery? Is one of them weaker than the other?

Something much less than 100 ohms could represent a short esp, 2 ohms or so, and something higher in the megs, 20 or more, could represent an open circuit. Both of which are bad. You have to consider, the wire itself has an ohmage rating. It is a shielded cable with a specific distance from the core to the braided ground in radius. Even with no connections on either end, there will be a reading for the distance, plus the length involved. This is where the impedance becomes a factor in electronics dealing with frequencies. But we don't need to conduct a class, we just want to get you up and running.  ;)
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Offline jasonmeekhof

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Re: Problem with flasher
« Reply #38 on: Dec 22, 2009, 03:45 PM »
Did you jostle it in between lakes? Maybe your ducer got bumped. Those things are pretty sensitive new, much less 30 years old. I would think some of the components are down right brittle. I would open the thing up and inspect the board in it for blown components. If you find something blown, find a good computer repair shop, they could solder in new parts. Good luck!
Jason Meekhof<br />Muskegon, MI <br />www.myspace.com/underallow<br />

 



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