Nils Failure

[Tangler]

I found a similar thread from to what I am posting, but it was locked for some reason.  I feel a duty to report my own experience.

I bought a Nils hand auger 8" in 2012 and it worked amazingly for the end of that season.  This year, first time out on the ice, it cut one hole, then skipped on the next, then was useless on the third.  It was clear, hard ice, no dirt or anything like that.  I am extremely careful with the thing.  No banging, always use the cover, etc.  I got maybe 50 holes drilled with it (I don't ice that much) before it had to be sent in to be sharpened or whatever those guys need to do to a brand new blade that abruptly won't cut.  Haven't gotten it back yet, so can't report on performance after sendin it in.  It cost me $42.  $11 shipping each way + $20 fee to sharpen/reset or whatever they need to do to it.

Crazy thing is that my friend who bought a Nils 8" hand auger had the exact same thing happen to his at the end of the 2012 year.  His was 1 year old and probably around 100 holes drilled, tops. Cutting fine, and then, poof, useless. I bought mine because I liked his so much.  His has performed well since getting it sharpened. 

What I am saying is directly in line with accounts from the thread from the beginning of the year.  Add 2 more Nils failures to the running list.

[gsppointer]

Glad I'm not the only one.  Took a trip to So Dak last March which was the end of my ice season.  It worked great no problems.  Take it out this year first time and all it did was bounce around on good, clear hard ice.  I do have a spare (one with powerpoint one without)  but trying to change that can be a pain in the axx.  I would like to know what gives.

[Kierran]

In my experience, as hand augers, Nils are VERY sensitive and temperamental.  If you bang them in the slightest or drill through ice and hit bottom, that could make them virtually useless.  However, when I got the Tanaka engine for it, that all stopped instantly.  Never had an issue since I converted it to a power auger.  That doesn't help you much unless you have a few hundred dollars to spend.

[Tackle]

It could be that you guys are so anxious to get through the ice that you're applying to much pressure.

 

[BaitBucket]

It doesnt take much to make any hand auger malfunction.

The fact that its the first cut this season meant there could be some rust build up on the blades that built up in the off season.

[evobassfish]

I was informed that there was a bad batch of cutting heads that got shipped out couple years ago. Don't worry, they'll be better than new when you get them back from Frank(sharp Nils) if thats who you sent them to.

[Sixxer]

Just had a similiar problem with my 2012 Strikemaster. Dumped the fuel out, found my can with the 0% ethanol, 91 octane 2 cycle mix and after priming it the auger fired right up. I thought the engine was crap, turned out the gas was the problem. Good luck!

Sixxer

[3300]

thanks for the warnings!

no reason to switch brands after hearing all of that
both my lazers have cut thousands of holes and same blades that came with them and not been sharpened.

oh and a tip for those who use gas w/2 cycle oil. shake the piss out of it before starting them. the ethanol needs to be remixed every day you use it

been hearing reports about engines seizing because of this or rather from not shaking the gas in the tank first

use sea foam to keep it clean and water free too

[Tangler]

I was informed that there was a bad batch of cutting heads that got shipped out couple years ago. Don't worry, they'll be better than new when you get them back from Frank(sharp Nils) if thats who you sent them to.

Indeed!  I'm looking forward to that.

[fishlessman]

couple years ago with the nils we had some fresh black ice and it just wanted to skip, a few hours later once the sun started to hit the ice it was fine and has been fine ever since. it just may have been that first hard black ice of the season or it may have been the offset handle movement wasnt as smooth as it should be being the first time out. i dont know

[harrops26]

I had the same problem  with my 8" last year. Got less then 50 holes before it stopped cutting.  I used a 6" the two seasons prior with no issues. I considered my self experienced in caring for a Nils. I contacted a state side Nils rep and he refused to even acknowledge there was a possibility it was a problem with Nils. Don't expect any customer service from Nils Master. The real crappy thing is I sent the blade in to be sharpened at fish307 and it was lost in the mail and I loss my insurance receipt so I'll never know the truth.

[bigredonice]

I've been running nils augers for over 15 years now.   The blades are definitely a bit temperamental.  My 6" auger, I have to replace the cutting head every 2-4 seasons or so.   I get 1-2 seasons out of the 8" cutting heads.   If you look at the blade design, it is very susceptible to being bent out of angle with the slightest bump.

1.   Don't ever let your friends use your Nils, ESPECIALLY the ones that are prone to dropping things or being careless

2.  Always spray a light oil or silicone on the blades.   Even the slightest amount of rust can affect the cutting edge.

3.  If you ever drill into anything but ice, kiss your blade good bye, its done.   Even a leaf or the slightest amount of dirt or weeds might screw up the cutting head.

I love my nils.  No other hand auger can even come close to the cutting efficiency and speed of a nils hand or power auger...but it has trade-offs, just like everything else in life...

PS: I've had the 4" the longest, and I've never had an issue with that one...

[backwoodswalker]

I am sure glad I bought a lazer instead of a nil's. Availability of new bleades (if needed) was number 1 reason I bought it. A lot cheaper too.  Steve 

[harrops26]

I am sure glad I bought a lazer instead of a nil's. Availability of new bleades (if needed) was number 1 reason I bought it. A lot cheaper too.  Steve

Even with the issues I've had, I would never even think of comparing a lazer to a Nils. When people say Nils are effortless they are telling the truth

[cold_feet]

I wont say you did anything wrong using your Nils but anyone who puts any down pressure on a Nils is looking to shorten its life.  Ive had Nils for years and just bought a new one two years ago simply because my kid wanted to run and gun leaving me without a auger if I needed it. Two augers were better than one.  Nils are touchy and never I mean never do I allow anyone to use my auger. And after every trip I brush on a little grease to keep that edge rust free. 

[esox_magnum]

I've been running nils augers for over 15 years now.   The blades are definitely a bit temperamental.  My 6" auger, I have to replace the cutting head every 2-4 seasons or so.   I get 1-2 seasons out of the 8" cutting heads.   If you look at the blade design, it is very susceptible to being bent out of angle with the slightest bump.

1.   Don't ever let your friends use your Nils, ESPECIALLY the ones that are prone to dropping things or being careless

2.  Always spray a light oil or silicone on the blades.   Even the slightest amount of rust can affect the cutting edge.

3.  If you ever drill into anything but ice, kiss your blade good bye, its done.   Even a leaf or the slightest amount of dirt or weeds might screw up the cutting head.

I love my nils.  No other hand auger can even come close to the cutting efficiency and speed of a nils hand or power auger...but it has trade-offs, just like everything else in life...

PS: I've had the 4" the longest, and I've never had an issue with that one...

 I got 5 years out of my 8" before it needed sent in to be sharpened, would have went longer but drilled into some debris froze into the ice...You dont replace a Nils head you have it resharpened, Sharp Nils ( Frank Deluca) does mine and it came back sharper than it was new, on season 3 since resharpened and no sign of needing sharpened yet...

[bigredonice]

 I got 5 years out of my 8" before it needed sent in to be sharpened, would have went longer but drilled into some debris froze into the ice...You dont replace a Nils head you have it resharpened, Sharp Nils ( Frank Deluca) does mine and it came back sharper than it was new, on season 3 since resharpened and no sign of needing sharpened yet...

Like I told the guys at the Nils in Vermont, I drill A LOT of holes every season - there's a big difference in the life of the edge of a resharpened blade vs a new blade...   

there are reasons for this.  One thing I've noticed is that after a few hundred holes, the edges of resharpened blades start to get wavy and uneven...whereas the new cutting heads, the corners of the blade might round slightly but the edge itself doesn't change or erode in nearly the same fashion...

According to who I talked to at Nils, the heads are chrome finished, and when they get resharpened, alot of that chrome comes off, and changes how the blade edge responds to use....

[esox_magnum]

Mine still cuts as good as it ever did, if not better than original, all depends who did the sharpening, my guy is one of 2 maybe 3 Authorized sharpeners in the country....

[stripernut]

I have used both the Nils and the Fine Bore side by side and both cut great/the same! Now if something happens to the blades of the Fine Bore I can reach into a back pocket and get another set, for less money (easier to swap out also). Nils makes a great auger, but I will use the one that cuts just as well, is cheaper, is not as "Delicate", easier to find blade covers for, MUCH cheaper to have sharpened and I can carry multiple set of blade easier than the one Nils Head. The Fine Bore. It may not have the "Cult" following of the NIls, but that is OK by me.

[bee]

My Nils cuts just fine. But I have converted to a Mora on Tanaka power head. It is lighter and cuts just as good if not better. Short video from today.

 

[esox_magnum]

I have used both the Nils and the Fine Bore side by side and both cut great/the same! Now if something happens to the blades of the Fine Bore I can reach into a back pocket and get another set, for less money (easier to swap out also). Nils makes a great auger, but I will use the one that cuts just as well, is cheaper, is not as "Delicate", easier to find blade covers for, MUCH cheaper to have sharpened and I can carry multiple set of blade easier than the one Nils Head. The Fine Bore. It may not have the "Cult" following of the NIls, but that is OK by me.

All fine and dandy but I have no use for a hand auger....

[michiganpolarbear]

same problems as the original poster on mine. last year it start cutting crappy this year it will not cut at all.    instead of buying another 6 inch nils went and got a 8 inch lazer. cheaper this way instead of being out of a auger i can get the blades for the lazer. at least i am drilling holes not sitting on my duff waiting for it to be sharpened.  it is even cheaper for the lazer blades then  sending the head to be sharpened some times and shipping it back 35.99 for the 8 inch lazer blades were shipping back and forth and sharpening will add up in the long run.   you can also get a sharpener for the lazer blades if you look around.. mite be tougher with the lazer but at least it drills holes! 

[filetandrelease]

well my 6 and 4.5 are original tanaka,s  which makes them 30 yrs old and still cutting and have a spare sets just in case if the unthinkable happens and I sent in four heads year before last and with shipping both ways added to 80. bucks i like the math compared to buying new blades for other augers and never let anyone use or borrow your auger , I just can't figure how one can cut at the end of a season and the beginning of the next not , I have put my covers on at the end of a season and just pull them out the next and ready to go , that is very odd indeed

[stripernut]

I sent in four heads year before last and with shipping both ways added to 80. bucks i like the math compared to buying new blades for other augers

I don't often buy new blades, I have them resharpened... Last time I had them sharpened I dropped them off at a local shop and for under $10 they were as good as new.

[filetandrelease]

  I use to have flat blades  [mora] and sharpend them myself but they needed much more tending ,some of the places I fished had sand in the ice and the flat blades just didn't make it , but i dealt with it until the tanka came out , in the old days I carried 3 set sof blades  with me

[Cross-Eye-Jig]

well my 6 and 4.5 are original tanaka,s  which makes them 30 yrs old and still cutting and have a spare sets just in case if the unthinkable happens and I sent in four heads year before last and with shipping both ways added to 80. bucks i like the math compared to buying new blades for other augers and never let anyone use or borrow your auger , I just can't figure how one can cut at the end of a season and the beginning of the next not , I have put my covers on at the end of a season and just pull them out the next and ready to go , that is very odd indeed

The Tanaka Augers changed the 1984/85 ice fishing season for many people and there's been no looking back !
  Take care of the Tanaka /Nils Master augers and they'll last beyond all expectations !
  The only time that I've had either of those augers spin on the ice was after I let someone borrow a 6" to cut a few holes. 
  They put downward pressure on the auger, thinking it was a Mora or Lazer and bent the leading edge of the head.    A couple light taps with a brass mallet and it was back in business !
  There are tricks to make your Nils Master cut as good as new if it ever fails you.
Certain things to look for on the cutting head that are clear signs of abuse or hitting debris in the ice.
  Nickel Chromium steel sharpens and polishes very easy.  Learn how to remove burrs and nicks in the head and you can be back to hole cutting in a matter of minutes !
   I've handled a few of those augers over the years and every time someone complained that their auger was defective, it was due to their own negligence or others who used the auger.

[michiganpolarbear]

The Tanaka Augers changed the 1984/85 ice fishing season for many people and there's been no looking back !
  Take care of the Tanaka /Nils Master augers and they'll last beyond all expectations !
  The only time that I've had either of those augers spin on the ice was after I let someone borrow a 6" to cut a few holes. 
  They put downward pressure on the auger, thinking it was a Mora or Lazer and bent the leading edge of the head.    A couple light taps with a brass mallet and it was back in business !
  There are tricks to make your Nils Master cut as good as new if it ever fails you.
Certain things to look for on the cutting head that are clear signs of abuse or hitting debris in the ice.
  Nickel Chromium steel sharpens and polishes very easy.  Learn how to remove burrs and nicks in the head and you can be back to hole cutting in a matter of minutes !
   I've handled a few of those augers over the years and every time someone complained that their auger was defective, it was due to their own negligence or others who used the auger.

i am betting i need to tap mine with a soft faced hammer i loaned mine to some one last year that tapped the blade on the ice right in front of me i about had a heart attack seeing it happen too.   i am betting the original poster has the same problem . from the downward force you may have bent the blade down ward taping upward wit ha soft faced hammer may undo what happened.  this is so the bevel face edge faces up more and bites more ice....   

[Cross-Eye-Jig]

i am betting i need to tap mine with a soft faced hammer i loaned mine to some one last year that tapped the blade on the ice right in front of me i about had a heart attack seeing it happen too.   i am betting the original poster has the same problem . from the downward force you may have bent the blade down ward taping upward wit ha soft faced hammer may undo what happened.  this is so the bevel face edge faces up more and bites more ice....

Just remember to tap from the top side downward.  It usually only takes a few light taps right where the cutting blade starts it's business (The leading edge directly below the shaft).  Once that edge cuts into the ice, the trailing edges do the rest of the work.    Most damage that I've ever seen on a Tanaka /Nils auger has been in the first 3/4" of the leading edge.
   Something else you can do to check your cutting head is to CAREFULLY run a cotton swab across the top and bottom side of each cutting surface.   If there are any tiny burrs present, they'll catch the fibers of the cotton ball.   Mark the burr with a marking pen then go back and lightly tap the burr(s) down with a soft metal mallet, piece of copper pipe, plastic mallet etc. IF the burr is on the upper side of the cutting blades.  Drag a ceramic stone (preferably round) across the surface from the thick part of the blade to the sharp edge using no pressure.  The blade just needs a slight polish to return to it's great cutting ability !
   If the burr(s) are on the bottom side, take a piece of fine ceramic sharpening stone and LIGHTLY drag that across the burr putting NO DOWNWARD PRESSURE on the stone as you drag it.   It may take a while but once the burr is smooth, your auger should cut like new again.   Just remember to NEVER alter the bottom (underside) of the cutting head.

  If all fails to return your cutting head to original, $20.00 is a darn fair price to pay to get them resharpened by Frank Deluca in Minnesota or Olavi @ Small engine Repair in Mass.
  I've never had Deluca sharpen any heads for me but I've heard nothing but stellar reports about his work. !   Even though he's much farther away, I'm sending him a box of heads to have sharpened this season.
  Hope you get your augers back in action soon !    Being without your Nils on the ice is like leaving your cell phone at home !

[ConesusPikeCatcher]

I think I got an 8in for Christmas. I didn't know they were so delicate. Kinda getting freaked out reading this thread.

[esox_magnum]

I think I got an 8in for Christmas. I didn't know they were so delicate. Kinda getting freaked out reading this thread.

 Nothing to freak about just remember to never put downpressure on it and buy a Cold Snap cover for it and keep it on when not drilling and DONT let anyone else use it