Clam Ice Auger/Cordless Drill Review

[conservationist]

jessb_55

http://www.cpooutlets.com/factory-reconditioned-dewalt-dcd985br-20v-max-cordless-lithium-ion-premium-3-speed-hammer-drill--bare-tool-/dewrdcd985br,default,pd.html

http://www.cpooutlets.com/factory-reconditioned-dewalt-dcd995br-20v-max-xr-cordless-lithium-ion-3-speed-1-2-in--brushless-hammer-drill--bare-tool-/dewrdcd995br,default,pd.html

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I had the 771 ....it got burnt up ....NOW a refurbished 995 hammer w/5 amp hr batteries on Clam plate(Gen 2) with SM 6"

----better yet: Get the DeWalt 995, AND TWO 4ah batteries for $149.
http://www.cpooutlets.com/factory-reconditioned-dewalt-dcd995m2r-20v-max-xr-cordless-lithium-ion-3-speed-1-2-in--brushless-hammer-drill-kit/dewrdcd995m2r,default,pd.html
Seriously, though; that's a RIDICULOUS PRICE for the drill and ONE battery. This is for two batteries and the charger.
FWIW:
I used my refurbished M18 Fuel Drill for the first time.
Paired with a 7" Mora on 9" of black ice (brand-new Swedish blades) -that thing shot through the ice like Poseidon himself was yanking down on the bit. 5 seconds flat, Ice chips flying everywhere! No downpressure needed, the weight of the auger, Clam plate, and drill were enough. Ice cleats are a MUST!

[MJB]

Having good luck with 2 ryobi batteries, probably 40+ holes off each one

[jessb_55]

Thanks everyone so I think I could sell my Dewalt for about $75 especially since the batteries are a 4 and a 3 amp hour. I found a guy who's selling a brand new Milwaukee set and would sell it to me for $250. Here's the set http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M18-FUEL-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Brushless-Hammer-Drill-Impact-Driver-Combo-Kit-2897-22/206211756. I could also use a driver so the combo is appealing for that reason too.


Any reason this would be a dumb purchase and/or wouldn't work with the Clam plate as like I mentioned earlier I read something about some the new generation or the drill needing modifications or something?

Thanks in advance

[hardwater diehard]

The older style Clam Plate required you to remove the chuck off the drill ...this is what I have...not sure which Clam Plate you have ...the Milwaukee  set up you describe should work very well as long as it has the 4+ ah batteries .

[conservationist]

jESS:
For $250, that's a nice bit of kit... Those tools are very powerful, as in 'Whoa- Glad I have this Clam plate to hold on to!' powerful.   Wear your ice cleats, or you're going to pull a groin staying up, or worse. Don't ask me how I know this...

Enjoy your sound investment. You're going to be moving every 10 minutes now.

[jessb_55]

The older style Clam Plate required you to remove the chuck off the drill ...this is what I have...not sure which Clam Plate you have ...the Milwaukee  set up you describe should work very well as long as it has the 4+ ah batteries .

Yep it comes with two 5 amp hour batteries, now if I could only get the guy (seller) to respond to me.....

Was really hoping to have it by the weekend to try it out as I'm thinking some good ice was made this last week!

I'll remember to not lock my knees

[jessb_55]

oh so go ahead an pull the trigger then? No reason this drill wouldn't work with the plate right?

Thanks

[conservationist]

oh so go ahead an pull the trigger then? No reason this drill wouldn't work with the plate right?

Thanks

Yep. No reason it wouldn't work.
When you assemble the HoleMaker, you'll have confidence that you made the right decision.
When you use the HoleMaker, you'll be glad you sprung for it. It's a beast.
Hands-down: It's the best system for making fishing holes in ice.
Ten years from now, all other systems will be considered obsolete (except hand-powered, of course!).

[buz23]

If you have the kind of clam plate that requires you to remove the chuck, you will need a different adapter to replace the chuck.  The threads on the newer 1200 in # model are different than the 725in # model.

[Damn Yankee]

If you have the kind of clam plate that requires you to remove the chuck, you will need a different adapter to replace the chuck.  The threads on the newer 1200 in # model are different than the 725in # model.

The 725"# model has a 1/2-13 thread. The 1200"# model has a 9/16-18 thread. If your clam plate has the 1/2-20 thread and you need
the 9/16-18 shaft Clam Customer Service will send you the proper shaft for $6.

[jessb_55]

alrighty, so I picked up the drill today and just put it on. I think I got the trigger set right, etc. And I have the model that already has the chuck on it so I don't believe I needed an adapter as I believe that only pertains to the models that you had to remove the chuck for right?


A few more questions though...I noticed that there seems to be some "play" in a few spots on the unit and just want to make sure something isn't loose as I bought this used and already assembled.

Spot #1: If you hold the plate like you're going to drill and you rock it back and forth the plate moves separately from the auger bit itself, Is that normal?

Spot #2: the bolt that holds the long trigger lever to the 3inchish vertical piece? I see the locking nut on the back is not tight but I don't see any threads in the visible gap so that's why I'm hesitant to "overtighten" it?

Spot #3: of the 3 bolts that are in line on the clamping  bar, I see there too that there is a gap on the front side where the phillips head is, but there too I'm wondering if that shouldn't be snug to keep the trigger from not sticking?

I would include photos but again I can't

[msfcarp]

Ill be using mine this afternoon so Ill look at it and answer you back if no one else does. Il think #1 is normal, just the little bit of play at attachment of auger and shaft.

[Shack man Shoney]

alrighty, so I picked up the drill today and just put it on. I think I got the trigger set right, etc. And I have the model that already has the chuck on it so I don't believe I needed an adapter as I believe that only pertains to the models that you had to remove the chuck for right?


A few more questions though...I noticed that there seems to be some "play" in a few spots on the unit and just want to make sure something isn't loose as I bought this used and already assembled.

Spot #1: If you hold the plate like you're going to drill and you rock it back and forth the plate moves separately from the auger bit itself, Is that normal?

Spot #2: the bolt that holds the long trigger lever to the 3inchish vertical piece? I see the locking nut on the back is not tight but I don't see any threads in the visible gap so that's why I'm hesitant to "overtighten" it?

Spot #3: of the 3 bolts that are in line on the clamping  bar, I see there too that there is a gap on the front side where the phillips head is, but there too I'm wondering if that shouldn't be snug to keep the trigger from not sticking?

I would include photos but again I can't

#1 yes
#2 dont overtighten anything, if nuts or screws come loose use a drop of blue loctite.
#3 everything on the drill and plate should should seem solidly mounted.... The linkage needs to be free.

[jessb_55]

okay so I tried tightening those two bolts in question and I couldn't get either one of them to tighten anymore and I know I've been told to not overtighten them but just seems really odd that there is side to side play with both of these.

Since I bought this plate used and already assembled and after looking at the assembly instructions online it seems like the throttle trigger assembly comes partially assembled with the linkage already attached. So that would mean the one bolt I'm referring to came like that from factory.....?

I really wish I could attach pictures....

Anyway, looking at the manual for the 2015-2016 model at https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B1g5_ONgg27GVk80aW1WU2tYUE0 i'm referring to bolt 103954 having a gap between bolt head and the loop on the linkage it goes through and the 2nd bolt being the bolt that is below the bolt the lower arrow is pointing to on "Step 3 adjusting the linkage" section on the last page of the instruction.

so...am i making sense when trying to explain these and is there indeed abnormal gaps in tightness?

[hardwater diehard]

jessb_55...so if I understand you correctly ...your trigger is sloppy ..meaning it has movement in the adjustment slot...up/down . Is nut threaded all the way onto the bolt ...meaning it stops at/flush to the unthreaded portion of the bolt ? If so I would add another washer near the nut ..that will give you a thread or two to tighten securely ..but allow movement for trigger.

I have the Gen2 plate ...adjusting everything took some patience and trial and error ..the trigger tends to stick if too tight ..so has to be just right ...some IS members have added a long spring to the trigger ...I may look into this on my set up ..but so far this year hasn't been that much of a big deal.

[buz23]

I put a little teflon grease on the joints of the trigger actuator.  I haven't had any sticking problems since (2 yrs).

[hardwater diehard]

On my Gen 2 plate ... bolt through trigger mechanism ...then a washer...then stand up bracket...washer...nut . The instructions for that year was vague at best ...I recall playing with the trigger mechanism on several occasions before the above assembly was implemented .

[Hardwater Problem]

You have explained pretty well to anyone who has a clam plate!!!  One of the bolts on the trigger is not adjustable but seemed loose to me.  The other two adjusted.  I put a rubber band around the trigger and handle to keep it "in place".  It doesn't go anywhere, just keeps it where it is at the ready.  Great set up...  a few little tweeks and it is solid!!!

[jessb_55]

Alright, thanks everyone I guess I'll leave as is!

One last question dose the trigger assembly come assembled because if that's the case then one of the bolts I'm referring to came assembled loose or at least in my opinion.

pretty happy with the setup otherwise other than the occasional instances where it seems like the auger just keeps turning, maybe slightly shaving, but not really making headway with making a whole but I might pick up some new blades to see if that does the trick.

The Milwaukee hammer drill I picked up last weekend on this auger is night and day compared to the entry level Dewalt I was using!

[Hardwater Problem]

Alright, thanks everyone I guess I'll leave as is!

One last question dose the trigger assembly come assembled because if that's the case then one of the bolts I'm referring to came assembled loose or at least in my opinion.

pretty happy with the setup otherwise other than the occasional instances where it seems like the auger just keeps turning, maybe slightly shaving, but not really making headway with making a whole but I might pick up some new blades to see if that does the trick.

The Milwaukee hammer drill I picked up last weekend on this auger is night and day compared to the entry level Dewalt I was using!

Its probably the blades, my blades are relatively sharp and the thing rips through the ice.  I don't think it took longer than 10 seconds or so to get through 20 inches of ice.  One of the bolts on the trigger mechanism IS loose, but I think it is designed to be so...  Mine is the bottom bolt where it actually attaches to the handle you pull.  I tried to remove it to tighten and it wouldn't even budge.  So... it is going to stay that way, if I can't get it off with tools, I don't see it working its way loose on its own.  Lastly, my entry level Dewalt I intended on using not only has a "brush" style motor and would have eventually likely burnt itself up over time with this application, my high end new Dewalt is brushless and feels way more sturdy.  The cheap drill has a loose housing and is extremely light.   I now realize that even though I stayed with Dewalt, there is a very clear contractor grade and average joe grade.   

[jessb_55]

Welp, I put some new blades on and seems better but still occasionally the thing will spin in one spot for 30 seconds or so. I try to clean out the shavings to see if that's the case but doesn't seem to make much of a difference. Do I need to rock the auger side to side at all to get the blades/auger bit gripping again?

Otherwise when it cut, it cuts super nice!

[hardwater diehard]

Little downward pressure works for me ...especially on this bare ice we have been having this season.

[Hardwater Problem]

Welp, I put some new blades on and seems better but still occasionally the thing will spin in one spot for 30 seconds or so. I try to clean out the shavings to see if that's the case but doesn't seem to make much of a difference. Do I need to rock the auger side to side at all to get the blades/auger bit gripping again?

Otherwise when it cut, it cuts super nice!

I'm no expert, but no hole has ever taken me thirty seconds from start to finish to drill.  I think maybe your auger has been dropped or banged out of whack just a bit.  Maybe start looking for a new bit.

[Kayakkid5115]

I recently consulted this forum before makeing a purchase and I am sad to say I choose Makita. I have always loved the company and before this would have highly recomend there products. I used a milwakee lithium full sized brushed motor drill a long time ago to drill 8" holes. That had enough torque at 550ft-lb rated, but I used a gas auger instead. Fast forward to this year I bought a new makita drill. The one with 1090 ft-lb and the 4ah batterys. I had the midsize drill with 3ah batterys but I wanted the extra oumph, so I bought the new set. Fist outing out it was like -5F and I froze my ass off. The drill was ruthless and drilled faster than my old gas auger with the exact same had auger itself. I started off useing the 3ah battery from my other set and I ended up drilling 3 and 1/2 holes in like a foot before it died. Switched over to the 4ah and It made it like 12 holes. I was not impressed. I repeated the same test out on a diffrent lake when it was about 20F and it still preformed about the same. Not only that, but it didn't have full power untill the end like the old milwakee. I am verry disapointed with mikita and their batterys. Same batterys that were able to screw over 300 2 1/2" stailess deck screws into a 4x4 piece of pine right at 32F degrees. Can someone tell me if the 5ah battery works better, or is this what I can expect from makita from now on?

Overall I would not recomend and am thoroughly dissapointed and would not recomend.

-Jon

[Hardwater Problem]

I recently consulted this forum before makeing a purchase and I am sad to say I choose Makita. I have always loved the company and before this would have highly recomend there products. I used a milwakee lithium full sized brushed motor drill a long time ago to drill 8" holes. That had enough torque at 550ft-lb rated, but I used a gas auger instead. Fast forward to this year I bought a new makita drill. The one with 1090 ft-lb and the 4ah batterys. I had the midsize drill with 3ah batterys but I wanted the extra oumph, so I bought the new set. Fist outing out it was like -5F and I froze my ass off. The drill was ruthless and drilled faster than my old gas auger with the exact same had auger itself. I started off useing the 3ah battery from my other set and I ended up drilling 3 and 1/2 holes in like a foot before it died. Switched over to the 4ah and It made it like 12 holes. I was not impressed. I repeated the same test out on a diffrent lake when it was about 20F and it still preformed about the same. Not only that, but it didn't have full power untill the end like the old milwakee. I am verry disapointed with mikita and their batterys. Same batterys that were able to screw over 300 2 1/2" stailess deck screws into a 4x4 piece of pine right at 32F degrees. Can someone tell me if the 5ah battery works better, or is this what I can expect from makita from now on?

Overall I would not recomend and am thoroughly dissapointed and would not recomend.

-Jon

Don't know what to tell you Kayak.  I try not to disparage any manufacturer, Makita is a reputable brand.  I went with the Dewalt 20 volt with the 5 AH batteries and it eats the ice up.  The temps shouldn't have affected those batteries so quickly unless there were hours between drilling holes.  The Milwaukee Fuel drill seems to be the ice eating monster, but I would love to go head to head with my Dewalt set up.  Maybe you try a different brand?  I hate to hear negative reviews of this type of auger, I will likely not use my gas auger again.  Best of luck!!!

[TheSituation]

I have the 5ah Makita batteries and have had good luck.  Everything I read says to keep the batteries warm, or performance will suffer.  Is the drill the XPH07Z?  I have the same one for working, but I bought a standalone XFD03Z (750 in-lbs) to permanently mount to the clam plate.  I have had good luck. 

[Hardwater Problem]

I have the 5ah Makita batteries and have had good luck.  Everything I read says to keep the batteries warm, or performance will suffer.  Is the drill the XPH07Z?  I have the same one for working, but I bought a standalone XFD03Z (750 in-lbs) to permanently mount to the clam plate.  I have had good luck.

That's great news.  My dad had one of the first 12 v. Makita drills back when I was a kid and that damn thing still works.  Its the goofiest looking drill and sort of feels wierd and unbalanced when you hold it but it has been bulletproof.  On my Dewalt, I keep the batteries warm and recharge them after each daily outing.  I keep meaning to go run a video of how many holes I can get per 5 AH battery, but I keep letting the fishing get in the way!

[Sully55]

I bought a set up with Ridgid brushless drill with 4ah batteries  and a 7in auger on a clam drill plate. It worked great the first time out but now it stops after I get a hole started I take it out and pull the trigger and sometimes it works, but sometimes I have to unhook battery and put it back it.. Have any of you had this problem?

[buz23]

Does it do it with both batteries?  Sounds like a connection problem.

[Sully55]

Yes more so with one than the other.