IceShanty.com's Ice Fishing Community
Ice Fishing Tips -Check your local regulations! => Jigging => Topic started by: liquidonyx on Feb 28, 2019, 11:02 AM
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Hello,
I wanted to run something past the group. I recently purchased a 27” medium light 13 Fish Tickle stick and lines it with 4 lb Pline floroice line. I bought the setup primarily for pan fishing.
On occasion something larger (trout, bass, pickerel) will come in and hit the jig. I set the hook but it’s almost immediately thrown by the fish. Ive noticed the issue with a variety of jigs.
Anyone have a similar issues or suggestion? The problem could absolutely be between the ice and the rod.
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I do not own a tickle stick but my guess is that you don’t have enough back bone in the rod to penetrate the hook. Or dull hooks.
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I’m thinking weak backbone as well, but I figured I’d ask around.
I do not own a tickle stick but my guess is that you don’t have enough back bone in the rod to penetrate the hook. Or dull hooks.
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Line is also a factor in this equation. A soft rod and stretchy line are not a good combo. I missed almost a full season of musky hookups due to a lightweight rod a copolymer, monofilament line. Loved the rod so I swapped my spool of nylon for Spectra. No more missed hooksets ;D
Your line is not 100% fluoro, but a copolymer coated with fluorocarbon. I know, I've got a few spools I use for the business end of superline main lines and it stretches just like regular fishing line.. If you like the feel of the rod, swap into 100% fluoro, more pricey and less stretch, or some superline (braid or fused) with a fluoro or your coated P-Line for leader for even more $$ and much less stretch. Might even out the combo.
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I'm not familiar with the tickle stick, but hook sets really have a lot to do with the bend of the rod. For instance, ht ice blues.. they are noodle all the way to the handle so you really have to set the hook hard and keep tension to get the hook to penetrate. Stiff rods, you barely lift up and the hook is set.
I had a lot of issues with the TUCR rods because of how they were built. Really limp tip section, then going immediately into stiff backbone about 6" down the rod. When I would set the hook on crappies with small tungstens, the rod tip would bend and essentially not do anything and then the backbone would hit and instantly pop the hook right out of the crappies mouth.
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I find keeping tension by winding or continuing to raise the rod IMMEDIATELY after the hook set makes a huge difference.
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I had a lot of issues with the TUCR rods because of how they were built. Really limp tip section, then going immediately into stiff backbone about 6" down the rod. When I would set the hook on crappies with small tungstens, the rod tip would bend and essentially not do anything and then the backbone would hit and instantly pop the hook right out of the crappies mouth.
This is exactly what I've found with the UL tickle stick I've been using. I had to learn the point at which it "locks up", and try not to go through that zone with the hook set. For an UL rod, the backbone is pretty stiff. Using mono line with it's stretch helped, and after a little trial and error, I do love the rod.
I suggest a wristsetter rod for anyone who doesn't like dealing the super soft tip / stiff backbone combination.
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Hello,
I wanted to run something past the group. I recently purchased a 27” medium light 13 Fish Tickle stick and lines it with 4 lb Pline floroice line. I bought the setup primarily for pan fishing.
On occasion something larger (trout, bass, pickerel) will come in and hit the jig. I set the hook but it’s almost immediately thrown by the fish. Ive noticed the issue with a variety of jigs.
Anyone have a similar issues or suggestion? The problem could absolutely be between the ice and the rod.
I've caught bass and pickeral no problem with my tickle stick, nothing very big though, maybe 2.5lbs the biggest.
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Line is also a factor in this equation. A soft rod and stretchy line are not a good combo. I missed almost a full season of musky hookups due to a lightweight rod a copolymer, monofilament line. Loved the rod so I swapped my spool of nylon for Spectra. No more missed hooksets ;D
Your line is not 100% fluoro, but a copolymer coated with fluorocarbon. I know, I've got a few spools I use for the business end of superline main lines and it stretches just like regular fishing line.. If you like the feel of the rod, swap into 100% fluoro, more pricey and less stretch, or some superline (braid or fused) with a fluoro or your coated P-Line for leader for even more $$ and much less stretch. Might even out the combo.
Flouro stretches just as much as mono, maybe more than copoly, but it is more dense so it transmits energy better so you feel the bite quicker. Mono and copoly is also more elastic giving it a bouncier feel. Take a length of each and hang a 1lb weight from them, they will all stretch virtually the same amount.
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Flouro stretches just as much as mono, maybe more than copoly, but it is more dense so it transmits energy better so you feel the bite quicker. Mono and copoly is also more elastic giving it a bouncier feel. Take a length of each and hang a 1lb weight from them, they will all stretch virtually the same amount.
Yep. Stretch was a poor choice of words. It's the "energy transmission" you noted that not only enhances "feel" but transmits better energy back into a hookset.
You made me poke around a bit more Nate and I learned a few things. Thanks for "prodding". :thumbsup: I can always learn something new. It's funny because I haven't bitten on much of the "conventional wisdom" surrounding fluoro yet it seems I've taken some of the marketing BS like a carp on a dough ball.
It still makes me crazy that most folks think copolymer is different from "mono". Same/same. Monofilament describes the line structure - single (mono) filament vs. braided or fused multiple filaments and copolymer describes the molecular makeup of the filament(s). Even fluoro is certainly a copolymer, just a different blend of existing polymers. I don't know of any single filament line that is a single polymer but I can be enlightened.
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Wow...I didn’t realize that’s I’d get this much feedback! Thanks for all the responses!
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This is exactly what I've found with the UL tickle stick I've been using. I had to learn the point at which it "locks up", and try not to go through that zone with the hook set. For an UL rod, the backbone is pretty stiff. Using mono line with it's stretch helped, and after a little trial and error, I do love the rod.
I suggest a wristsetter rod for anyone who doesn't like dealing the super soft tip / stiff backbone combination.
Tell me more about this wristsetter rod. Who makes it?
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Tell me more about this wristsetter rod. Who makes it?
Google madduck ice rods and Neptune ice rods
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i know all about the buttplug rod and the hockey stick, i'm interesting in the wristsetter.
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Yep. Stretch was a poor choice of words. It's the "energy transmission" you noted that not only enhances "feel" but transmits better energy back into a hookset.
You made me poke around a bit more Nate and I learned a few things. Thanks for "prodding". :thumbsup: I can always learn something new. It's funny because I haven't bitten on much of the "conventional wisdom" surrounding fluoro yet it seems I've taken some of the marketing BS like a carp on a dough ball.
It still makes me crazy that most folks think copolymer is different from "mono". Same/same. Monofilament describes the line structure - single (mono) filament vs. braided or fused multiple filaments and copolymer describes the molecular makeup of the filament(s). Even fluoro is certainly a copolymer, just a different blend of existing polymers. I don't know of any single filament line that is a single polymer but I can be enlightened.
Bass pros still talk about flouro having little stretch and then people hear it and it becomes fact. It has a lot of great qualities and I use it all the time for jigs and crankbaits especially on windy days, but it most definitely stretches, just less bouncy.
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Idk...maybe I need to put a lot more yank in my hook set on larger fish. I think my issue has a lot to do with the soft tip on the rod. Maybe I’m not getting enough into it before the back bone sets the hook.
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Make sure you reel tight and give 'er! Seriously, if you spool with lower stretch line might just make the difference. 6# Nanofil is about the diameter of 3# plastic. Mate that with a plastic leader and you might have a solution.
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I put now fluorocarbon line on the reel tonight. Crossing my fingers for some rainbows tomorrow!
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Maybe it's the jig. Change things first with different lures, different hooks, and see if you get the same results or different. Ten to twenty feet of line is short...not enough to say for sure that it's the rod and line's flex and stretch.
Yanking the rod harder on such light lines won't give you any better hook sets. It's all about how the fish bites onto your lure. If the body of the lure is what's in the teeth or jaw line on the hook set, no hooks are getting pinned onto flesh of mouth. Most of my reels are set to something like 1 to 2 lbs of drag force to protect the line from snapping on the hook set.
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You could also try widening the hook gap a little bit. I run into the same exact issue when fishing super tiny tungsten jigs where the jig head itself is slightly larger than the hook gap. You set the the hook then a second later the fish throws the bait. A wider hook gap solved my problem 99% of the time.
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It’s a medium light rod. Most of the larger fish strikes are unintentional. I’ve had significantly better luck after changing line and implementing pointers given in this thread!