Building a spearing shanty

[dermestid]

Okay so I am going to build a spearing shanty and need some advice, I want to build it as big as I can so I can fit it on the snowmobile trailer with a snowmobile to haul it out with. Right now I am thinking of building it 4' 8" wide, 8' long and 6' high I would like to go a little wider with it but that is the absolute max I can go and still fit a snowmobile on the trailer with it. Will this be big enough for 2 people? I can go up to 12' long but I dont want it super heavy. I plan on using 2x4s cut in half for the framing and 3/8" plywood for the sides and the floor. Will a 3'x2' spearing hole be big enough? Any help is greatly appreciated as I have never been spearing and would love to start!

[Higgins]

I have been spearing for about 8 years now and have made 4 shantys and the first one only lasted 2 years cause I didn't like how I made it but my last 2 were built good. Here are some tips........
1. 56" is plenty for 2 guys
2. 6ft is max
3.go with a bigger hole, more like 3' by 3' or 28" by 46"
4.a flat bottom is best so that ice cant freeze in any cavity's
5.a slant roof will help drainage
6.use anchors
7.you might want to use 2 by 3's for the floor framing because the water really gets to the floor when you keep heating it up and then it freezes
8.Hunting steps work great for handles on the out side of your shanty
9.give your door a extra gap for ice build up as well as contracting and expanding
9. make it as lite as you possibly can for a few reasons, one is that you will need to pick it up to get 4 by 4's under it and then even with a snow mobile you have to think of slush and or no snow on the ice and also thickness of the ice as well as a heavy shanty will make ice under 10" sag and can flood a shanty if not moved or propped up again

I'm sure I'm forgetting allot  but I hope that helps

[dermestid]

That helps a ton! Thanks! What would I use to anchor it? Do you think 2x4s ripped down the middle will be strong enough for the rest of the frame besides the floor?

[Higgins]

O yeah 2x2's will work just fine for the rest of the shanty and as for anchors there are many good ways to do it but the way I like the best is putting 2 eyelets on each side of the shanty and then I just bring a drill with me and drill into the ice (on an angle going under the shanty) and put in another eyelet and use rope to attach the to eyelets together.

I just want to warn ya that even the heavyest of shanty's will fly across a lake without snow if not anchored down and if they don't slide they can always tip over so make sure ya anchor them down.

[fishinator]

it might be a better idea to just buy a 2x2 instead of ripping a 2x4. it shouldn't cost much more and ripped 2x4's will occasionally bow or you will hit a knot and have a junk board. if you buy 2x2's you can pick through and find straight ones.

[shantyless]

I agree, 2x2's are the way to go...faster and easier.

[gooseblaster49707]

look at the past posts. make sure your hole is ''correct handed''.  most of my shacks had an 18''x24'' hole and i thought that was fine.  never had a nose i couldn't poke.   
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lighter is better when it comes to the shack. especially when trailering and getting it off in the spring. 5mm luan for the walls is fine as long as it is glued and screwed/nailed to the house frame.  paint with oil based enamel in the summer and allow to dry. plenty strong for sure.   insulation is a must, again, glued and furred.
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my last shack was 5'x7'x7'tall. it fit the wood i had on hand. the spearing hole was again 18x24 with a jigging hole in all 4 corners.  i could sink a minnow bucket in one. tip-up in another, jig pole in another, float beers in the 4th.  it just worked out. hole covers and 5 gallon bucket sleeves were welcome.
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i used a mr buddy heater tucked under my seat. surrounded by drywall pieces to keep the walls (and my butt) from catching on fire.
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ventilation is a must and the vents must be shrouded in some way to keep the light out. 3'' in 3'' out. not up for option.  an old inner tube piece stapled to furring strips work well.  so do floor vents from home depot @ $2.00 each.
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when i build my next shack, this summer, it will have a door on both ends. PERIOD. when you have company and/or tip-ups set, nobody has to climb over each-other. just open the closest door and get out. works well when nature calls and also, makes the shack right or left handed. think about that for a minute.  makes total sence.
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review the mr buddy cooker posts and convert your heater to a part time cooker. heat your coffee, burritos, dogs, etc and have many happy days on the ice.