It seems like every 4th or 5th topic here deals somewhere along the line with wire and the perceived difficulties in creating a reliable connection. I'll offer this info in its own topic so (hopefully) it might benefit those willing to do a search for an answer.
There's no mystery to making an awesome connection with stranded wire. No crimps, no special tools, though there are one or two that can make the job much easier and neater. No pricey "tieable" wire, just good ol' AFW or Mason uncoated stranded steel wire for $3 per 30’ right off the rack at most well stocked tackle stores. The beauty of no crimps is it eliminates the point where most steel leaders fail, at the crimp. Even if your crimping technique is picture perfect, the flexing of the leader meets the solid crimp and stresses the wire. Sooner or later, that's where it will break. Not so with this connection, it is as soft and flexible as the wire itself, because all it is is wire.
First, the way I learned some 30+ years ago. A time tested technique in Europe and the UK for connecting wire to, well, anything. This is cheap, fast, absolutely reliable and field friendly. I have made literally thousands of rigs with ZERO connection failures. The only failure you're likely to experience, other than horsing a fish, is a fatigue related one due to overfishing a leader. See the diagram below:
One of the tools that makes life easier, especially if you make lots of these, is a "twiddling stick" I designed and made my own from .051" lure wire and some brass hex stock I had laying around. You could even use a large single hook with the barb pinched down. Here's what the real deal looks like:
To see a twiddling stick in action check out this video. The guy is Mick Rouse, an angling educator in the UK. He will use a little different connection but the thought is the same. I've tried this one too and find it just as reliable. You can try both and see which is easiest for you......
Here's a closer look at the actual connection on a #10 treble with 20# wire:
A few additional tips and tricks:
1. Don’t be intimidated by this. It’s as easy as it looks. Plus you will find other applications for it, like tying directly to jigs or lures while fishing other species in pike infested waters.
2. If you use a forceps and twirl, be careful. Don’t whack yourself in the face and don’t be dismayed if the forceps comes off and hits your partner in the face or flies into the lake. Don’t ask how I know these things.......
3. If you’re going to make a lot by twiddling do yourself a favor and heat the ends of the wires cherry red. Not a lot, just the last 1/8 inch. This anneals the wire and makes it softer so it’s easier when that last part comes around the end, wrapping up easily instead of poking you in the finger or thumb.
4. These leaders can curl up when fighting a fish. This does not affect the strength. You can “de-curl” if you want them by pinching the wire between your finger and thumbnail on the back of the curl and pull through. Too much pressure and you can curl the wire the other way. Practice a little and you’ll get it. If the leader gets a sharp kink, replace it. Don’t throw the whole thing away; you can often recycle hooks and swivels.
5. You’re free to experiment. It’s easy to try some beads or blades or different configurations. If it doesn’t work, cut it apart and try something else. Wire is dirt cheap...........
I think that’s about it. Sure, I know some of you are dead set against wire, but this is really the only cut proof material you can put down against those razor sharp pike teeth. I’ve played with plastic leader material and continue to do so, but day in and day out wire is my go to........
Hope some of you find this useful.
/m
