IceShanty.com's Ice Fishing Community
IceShanty Main => General Ice Fishing Chit Chat => Topic started by: ran7ger on Dec 10, 2017, 04:42 PM
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so i tried my kdrill out for the first time on a 2704 m18 fuel and it seemed to take alot longer to get through than it did with my swede-bore, sure didn't bite into the ice the same. it was nice and smooth and broke through smooth but i think i'll be back to the trusty swede-bore once there's +30". anyone else feel the same?
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The K-Drill’s best quality is its weight. Beyond that, there are far better choices if you don’t mind carrying a few extra pounds. I was as a huge proponent of the K-Drill until I actuallly used it. Not so much now. You sacrifice a lot for the light weight.
DN
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Was the drill set right? I've seen a K drill keep up with a nils. Suprised it cut slow.
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I’ve never really understood the k-drill. I don’t see why it has all that flighting if you have to constantly clear the hole with auger. Which is something I’ve never really seen advocated professionally until I saw the k-drill demonstrations. Every time I see someone clearing the ice chips with the k-drill then slamming the auger back into the ice I can hear those poor blades screaming for mercy. Even when I’m hand drilling through 24” of ice I’ve never cleared the hole of ice chips and have never experienced a problem doing so.
If weight reduction is your goal, just using a drill setup will accomplish that in spades pretty much regardless of auger bit. Having said all that, I’m looking forward to attaching my 8” Lazer to the M18 Fuel I got over the summer.
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i'm just a gear junky and wanted to try it. pretty expensive experiment if it doesn't work out. drill is set right, i've had a hand drill on a m18 fuel since the first one came out. currently have a gen1 m18 fuel with a original clam plate and 8" swedebore and the 8" kdrill paired with the new m18 fuel.
anyone try using shims to increase the attack angle?
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I've never seen a fast kdrill, I've seen them do better than average, but not fast in any way...
They seem to do a lot of tire spinning, which is how they're designed, to work in the rpm range of drills, without overloading them by allowing that slip...
An 8" Mora is lighter just under 4lbs, and actually 8"...
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Do you have the drill in the correct gear, you probably do but that does change the cutting
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K-drill has chipper blades meant for opening old holes which a mora can’t do , it’s also designed not to catch as you break through drilling the hole & punches though a clean hole( aka no sharp edges around the hole ). I have used the laser on my Milwaukee and you better have a tight gripe on your drill as it will catch on a break through . I for one love the weight & the free blade sharpening for life . Not trying to start a pee match just stating some facts as I have used mora & laser set ups . Nils blades were just too expensive & hard to find around here so I ruled it out , this will be the 3 year on the K-Dill
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My 8” k-drill and m18 drills about 1” per second which is fine with me. How fast do you really need? When the ice is real thick my jiffy model 30 is faster but at 24 Lbs lighter I have no problem.
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K-drill has chipper blades meant for opening old holes which a mora can’t do , it’s also designed not to catch as you break through drilling the hole & punches though a clean hole( aka no sharp edges around the hole ). I have used the laser on my Milwaukee and you better have a tight gripe on your drill as it will catch on a break through . I for one love the weight & the free blade sharpening for life . Not trying to start a pee match just stating some facts as I have used mora & laser set ups . Nils blades were just too expensive & hard to find around here so I ruled it out , this will be the 3 year on the K-Dill
I hear this all the time about lazer's catching on the break thru. I have 2 lazers one old, one newer(3 years old) and have put both on my Milwaukee and never have issues with anything catching on the break thru. Not sure if people are putting too much or not enough downward pressure on the auger or what, but it is not an issue for me and never has been. Maybe the difference is I always keep sharp blades on my Lazers. I will change them a couple times a year if it is a good ice year.
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I have a new 8" K-Drill on a DeWalt 996. It's fantastic for drilling new holes as well as re-opening holes, certainly much lighter and more convenient than any of my Jiffys. Like the Jiffys it cuts smoothly with no binding and reasonably fast on its own weight, but not super-fast. There is really no need to apply much extra down-force (except maybe racing against someone else) but that makes it very aggressive ... really digs in hard and cuts quicker, but you better be hanging on tight!
I've also used a 6" Mora with the DeWalt. It cuts smooth and fast, but definitely NOT for re-drilling holes! For simply drilling new holes all the time in clean ice then a Swede-Bore/Mora or other shaving blade may be a better option than the K-Drill.
By the way, the 8" K-Drill creates a 7 1/4" diameter hole. I didn't measure the diameter of the hole made by the 6" Mora.
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In this video, I think a gear box would help, Milwaukee drill seems to really be working...
Kdrill...
https://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=349521.0
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If you're not putting a little pressure down on the kdrill, it will just spin. The kdrill shines in breaking old holes and being light, that's about it.
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thanks guys, more than anything i just wanted to be sure something wasn't out of whack with the blades. i'll use the swedebore fishing other lakes and the kdrill for drilling out old holes in my permy which is mostly what i bought it for. really like the light weight and it sure doesn't sting bare fingers like a metal auger!
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The Kdrill is not as fast as some light yes love mine. Any strikemaster auger especially the lazer binds at the bottom of the hole twisted my wrists twice never again. I wish it was better for you. I think we all feel like if we cant get a hole one in 2 seconds we have a junkie auger. Remember the spoon augers I think we have come a long way.
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Are you guys seriously saying that you think drilling one inch per second of ice is slow?
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A sharp shaver blade will ALWAYS cut faster than a chipper blade. The payback you get from losing the speed on the KDrill is being able to overcome sandy/dirty ice, opening old holes, overlapping holes, clean break through and free lifetime sharpening. YMMV, but in my experience with shaver blades you will probably be getting new blades every 2-3 years and in some cases more often than that. The cost will add up for sure, especially with a Nils. and don't forget if you ding up a shaver blade, youk might not be able to cut any holes no matter how hard you try, so you best have a backup.
I've actually seen better than 1" per second on my tests with the KDrill. Last year I was doing 15" of ice in 11 seconds with DeWalt 996. But again, a sharp shaver will be even faster than that.
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Are you guys seriously saying that you think drilling one inch per second of ice is slow?
That's ridiculously slow.
I hole hop a lot and it's nothing for me to drill 100 holes in a day. In 2 feet of ice that's 40 minutes of drilling per day at that speed.
A Strikemaster LazerMag drills a 24" hole in 6 seconds, and the 40V Lithium isn't much less than that. I haven't been on thick enough ice yet to time it but with the holes I drilled this past weekend I couldn't tell much of a difference in speed.
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A sharp shaver blade will ALWAYS cut faster than a chipper blade. The payback you get from losing the speed on the KDrill is being able to overcome sandy/dirty ice, opening old holes, overlapping holes, clean break through and free lifetime sharpening. YMMV, but in my experience with shaver blades you will probably be getting new blades every 2-3 years and in some cases more often than that. The cost will add up for sure, especially with a Nils. and don't forget if you ding up a shaver blade, youk might not be able to cut any holes no matter how hard you try, so you best have a backup.
Chippers do cut dull better than shavers cut dull for sure..
Well put, except in thirty years, I've never bought auger blades or been stranded by any Mora.. I've always sharpened my blades...
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As stat d previously. I get a little quicker that 1" per second with my kdrill. For me, it's a no brainer. Free lifetime sharpening, not as fragile as a shaver blade (relatively speaking), huge weight savings, and better performance opening old holes and overlapping holes. To each their own I guess.
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if my kdrill is 2 seconds a hole slower, and i drill 50 holes a day, we are talking less than 2 minutes of time.
15 seconds vs 1 minute is one thing,
15 seconds vs 17 seconds is a whole nother.
i've used jiffy's, eskimos, kdrill/milwaukee, strikemasters, hand drills of every kind. as long as i'm not laboring to lean on and force it to cut, blades are fine, etc, most mechanical augers are within acceptable and usable parameters timewise.
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Auger speed arguments = boat speed arguments. If you like what you're running and they perform to your expectations, does it really matter?
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You got that right! they sky won't fall if it takes a little longer. still beats the hell out of those spoon augers by hand, which we thought were a gift from heaven. Uncle had a swedish 4" one that was actually pretty sweet. the 8" cheap ones, not so much!
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Sounds like some guys spend more time drilling holes than fishing. I doubt that I have ever drilled 50 holes in one day. I would guess 20 - 25 holes a day would be a lot for me on average. I normally know where to fish, and spend most of my time catching fish. I have done some main lake basin exploring but I am usually not the only one drilling holes.
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just tried my 8in kdrill connected to my clam conversion plate using the ridged brushless drill. It was about 20deg. out . And was about 8in of black ice. As I was drilling the drill would stop and felt like it was taking a long time to cut one hole . As I got to my 3rd hole my battery went dead . Wow . this was very disappointing. I switched to my back up battery , both are the better ones to 18volt. I was able to get 2 more holes again before the 2nd battery went dead to. I put the battery in my pocket and seemed to warm them up . and was able to punch out another 2 holes. But did not have this problem last year when I had it hook to my 6in finbore . That had no problems cutting holes and could cut many off one battery.
Just thinking the kdrill is not worth the money .Keeps stopping many times while cutting . Whats up with this. Should I RETURN IT ?
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A sharp shaver blade will ALWAYS cut faster than a chipper blade. The payback you get from losing the speed on the KDrill is being able to overcome sandy/dirty ice, opening old holes, overlapping holes, clean break through and free lifetime sharpening. YMMV, but in my experience with shaver blades you will probably be getting new blades every 2-3 years and in some cases more often than that. The cost will add up for sure, especially with a Nils. and don't forget if you ding up a shaver blade, youk might not be able to cut any holes no matter how hard you try, so you best have a backup.
I've actually seen better than 1" per second on my tests with the KDrill. Last year I was doing 15" of ice in 11 seconds with DeWalt 996. But again, a sharp shaver will be even faster than that.
I just watched that video and it sure wasn't a clean break through! That would drive me crazy alone...I'll stick with my Ion.
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Which video? Are you talking about my KDrill video? If so... Which hole didn't break clean? It's like butter. :)
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Which video? Are you talking about my KDrill video? If so... Which hole didn't break clean? It's like butter. :)
Probably this one...
https://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=349521.0
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I have a 6 inch K drill and I love it....Can't comment on the 8 inch but for jumping around Perch and Panfish fishing I haven't used anything better than this setup.... ;D
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Probably this one...
https://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=349521.0
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thats user error right there. that was horrible.
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just tried my 8in kdrill connected to my clam conversion plate using the ridged brushless drill. It was about 20deg. out . And was about 8in of black ice. As I was drilling the drill would stop and felt like it was taking a long time to cut one hole . As I got to my 3rd hole my battery went dead . Wow . this was very disappointing. I switched to my back up battery , both are the better ones to 18volt. I was able to get 2 more holes again before the 2nd battery went dead to. I put the battery in my pocket and seemed to warm them up . and was able to punch out another 2 holes. But did not have this problem last year when I had it hook to my 6in finbore . That had no problems cutting holes and could cut many off one battery.
Just thinking the kdrill is not worth the money .Keeps stopping many times while cutting . Whats up with this. Should I RETURN IT ?
. Which ridgid drill do you have? How much torque does it put out? Lots more power needed going from a 6" auger to a 8" ( 7 1/2" k-drill )
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I will have to look when I get home to see what one I got. But I know that I got the best one that they had last year . Will get back to ya., thanks.
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your battery dying after 2 holes isn't a kdrill problem.
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Went out today and drilled 22 holes in 8" of ice with the Nero Mini 7" which is 7 3/8" and used 1 bar on my Ridgid.
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I will have to look when I get home to see what one I got. But I know that I got the best one that they had last year . Will get back to ya., thanks.
(https://s9.postimg.cc/xkvzr7dd7/20180121_193342.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/xkvzr7dd7/)
(https://s9.postimg.cc/bbi2kdmyz/20180121_193718.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/bbi2kdmyz/)
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(https://s9.postimg.cc/xkvzr7dd7/20180121_193342.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/xkvzr7dd7/)
(https://s9.postimg.cc/bbi2kdmyz/20180121_193718.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/bbi2kdmyz/)
Are you using ....Speed 1 and drill mode...also are the batteries firmly in place ...had to slam my batteries in on my first outing as the drill would cut a hole or two then stop ...thought it was overheating...also noticed the U bolt nut/knobs need tightening at times .Dewalt 995 Clam Plate atop a 8" Kdrill is my set up.
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My question would be if he has batteries that are larger then 2ah.......With a Chipper blade it is going to take more tourque to turn and a large batter that can handle the needed surge for power......a 2ah isn't the best choice.....4ah or larger batteries would help.
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My question would be if he has batteries that are larger then 2ah.......With a Chipper blade it is going to take more tourque to turn and a large batter that can handle the needed surge for power......a 2ah isn't the best choice.....4ah or larger batteries would help.
Drill is set on speed 1 and set on drill too. I did notice the drill stopping a few times and battery getting warm. I did notice battery no in all the way too. That was after the 2 nd hole,,, will be going out again wed. Will see how it goes this time keeping the battery warm in my pocket instead of in the pail on way out.
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Drill is set on speed 1 and set on drill too. I did notice the drill stopping a few times and battery getting warm. I did notice battery no in all the way too. That was after the 2 nd hole,,, will be going out again wed. Will see how it goes this time keeping the battery warm in my pocket instead of in the pail on way out.
I didn't see the battery capacity ...yeah bigger batteries will solve the problem I am quite certain
My question would be if he has batteries that are larger then 2ah.......With a Chipper blade it is going to take more tourque to turn and a large batter that can handle the needed surge for power......a 2ah isn't the best choice.....4ah or larger batteries would help.
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The K-Drill’s best quality is its weight. Beyond that, there are far better choices if you don’t mind carrying a few extra pounds. I was as a huge proponent of the K-Drill until I actuallly used it. Not so much now. You sacrifice a lot for the light weight.
DN
Fun fact: The 50$ 6in Mora with the 12in HT Drill Adapter weighs the exact same as the 6in Kdrill..5lbs..
It also cuts better, replacement blades are cheaper, blades can be sharpened anywhere, and u have the handle to stash in your car incase the drill craps out.
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I am sooooo disappointed that my K-Drill is 0.75 seconds slower than most other augers. Really puts me into a deep depression.
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I am sooooo disappointed that my K-Drill is 0.75 seconds slower than most other augers. Really puts me into a deep depression.
Your going to make me.
(https://s13.postimg.cc/rek2tfakj/cry.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/rek2tfakj/)
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Fun fact: The 50$ 6in Mora with the 12in HT Drill Adapter weighs the exact same as the 6in Kdrill..5lbs..
It also cuts better, replacement blades are cheaper, blades can be sharpened anywhere, and u have the handle to stash in your car incase the drill craps out.
If you have done a side by side comparison of the two cutting I sure would like to see it..... ;) I have a Kdrill, Mora and a Lazer and I don't see it that way at all...but I haven't done a side by side cutting comparison of all 3 at the same time in the same conditions...
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yeah i don't get needing a drill to be 3 seconds faster than another drill. even if your drilled 50 holes an outing, we are talking 2-3 minutes out of a day of fishing.
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If you have done a side by side comparison of the two cutting I sure would like to see it..... ;) I have a Kdrill, Mora and a Lazer and I don't see it that way at all...but I haven't done a side by side cutting comparison of all 3 at the same time in the same conditions...
Even a side by side comparison doesn't make it true. I have watched a lot of those on youtube and you never know if one is dual and the other is sharp other than the people saying so. And I see a lot of those videos where the winning auger is drilling straight down and the other guy is drilling crooked. I don't think half of those guys posting videos even look at there own videos to see how stupid it looks.
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If you have done a side by side comparison of the two cutting I sure would like to see it..... ;) I have a Kdrill, Mora and a Lazer and I don't see it that way at all...but I haven't done a side by side cutting comparison of all 3 at the same time in the same conditions...
The point is, one is 50$ the other is 250$ and there is virtually no difference in performance or weight. The only other things you can factor are price, replacement blade prices, sharpening availability, and practicality if the drill has issues. The 50$ Mora comes out ahead in all those categories and is 200$ cheaper.. The Kdrill does look cooler tho..
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And reopens old holes better. Chipper blades.
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It's no secret that a shaver type blade is less agressive and will drill more holes on a battery charge than a chipper blade. Speed and number of holes drilled shoudn't be the only deciding factors. You need to consider weight (8" vs 8" and whether or not you will be using a clam plate) you need to consider redrilling old holes and maybe using it on dirty ice and how much of ice you are drilling (extension). This guy does a good jog of doing a simple demo and describing the pros/cons of each. There are instances when a shave blade is preferred and others when a chipper works better. If you are looking to save a few bucks and just want to make some holes, I think the best value is a good ol hand auger with a drill attachment and device to keep it from falling through the hole. If you want to step it up and still use a shaver, get a nils and if you want a chipper get a kdrill. Be sure to not cheap out on the drill/battery and you wont' be disappointed with your auger selection.
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Looks to be I will have to dish out $100 for a 5ah battery for my rigdid brushless 18volt hammer drill,, wich came with 2 batteries that was 2ah
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Very good review. I don't have the Clam Plate and was thinking about getting one. Not anymore.
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You need to consider weight (8" vs 8" and whether or not you will be using a clam plate) you need to consider redrilling old holes and maybe using it on dirty ice and how much of ice you are drilling (extension).
The 6in Kdrill weighs the same as a 6in Mora with the 12in ext. Looking online, the 8in Kdrill is 7lbs and the 8in Mora is 8lbs. As for opening old holes. I have never seen anyone do that, im not even sure why you would.. Who know whats frozen in there (beer can, stick, fish, rocks)..
In that video, he was punching holes about 3 seconds faster with the Mora (7sec vs 10sec). Thats 3 seconds less work on the drill/battery per hole = More holes and less wear and tear on the drill.
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Looks to be I will have to dish out $100 for a 5ah battery for my rigdid brushless 18volt hammer drill,, wich came with 2 batteries that was 2ah
The 5ah are slightly questionable, I highly recommend the 2 4ah for $99....
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Very good review. I don't have the Clam Plate and was thinking about getting one. Not anymore.
Check out the Ice Kicker II on ebay, its like the clam plate only the guy also has a gear reduction box built into it. Pretty sweet.
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The 6in Kdrill weighs the same as a 6in Mora with the 12in ext. Looking online, the 8in Kdrill is 7lbs and the 8in Mora is 8lbs. As for opening old holes. I have never seen anyone do that, im not even sure why you would.. Who know whats froen in there (beer can, stick, fish, rocks)..
In that video, he was punching holes about 3 seconds faster with the Mora.
Another thing, he was lifting to clear chips with the Kdrill, and not with the Mora, at least what I saw..
Also the Mora obviously got more holes, what he didn't mention was the Mora was actually making bigger holes..
8" Mora without any plate, extension, or hand crank, weighs in at just under four pounds...
(https://s17.postimg.cc/j7aqf390r/IMG_20161203_003832.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/j7aqf390r/)
Its also lighter than a 7.5" Kdrill bit...
After adding an extension, my Mora now weighs closer to three pounds. Yep, she lost almost a pound (little bit of work involved)
(https://s17.postimg.cc/knm8wz457/IMG_20161203_151005.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/knm8wz457/)
(https://s17.postimg.cc/y399mrzvv/IMG_20171212_180409.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/y399mrzvv/)
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8" Mora without any plate, extension, or hand crank, weighs in at just under four pounds...
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Wow!! So if u add a 12in HT Ext to the 8in mora, it weighs less than the 8in Kdrill.. To funny lol
PS: Your setup is AWESOME!! Is that gear reduction box the new one from clam or home made?
Double PS.. Im super jealous of that setup..
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As for opening old holes. I have never seen anyone do that, im not even sure why you would.. Who know whats frozen in there (beer can, stick, fish, rocks)..
You've never seen anyone who fishes in a hardside?
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You've never seen anyone who fishes in a hardside?
Why would you need an ultralight drill auger if your fishing in a cabin on the ice all day lol..
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Sorry to be objective, clearly you guys know what's best for everyone.
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PS: Your setup is AWESOME!! Is that gear reduction box the new one from clam or home made?
Double PS.. Im super jealous of that setup..
Thanks, that aluminum gear box is the one Clam sent to replace the first generation plastic ones they recalled...
So far it's exactly what I was hoping for...
I've ran a brushed Ridgid straight to a 6" Mora for a number of seasons without any difficulties... I reduced the flights on my 6" a while back. It was an attempt to reduce friction from the sides of the hole when we were dealing with over 30" of ice.. It worked out great. An 8" Mora won't rub the sides of the hole because the flights are 7", which makes it a lighter too...
Here's a picture of my 6" modded and my 8" before...
(https://s17.postimg.cc/58imgebp7/IMG_20161203_105412.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/58imgebp7/)
One thing I still fail to understand, is why the Kdrill has all those flights, with you have to lift it out to clear the chips anyway???
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Why would you need an ultralight drill auger if your fishing in a cabin on the ice all day lol..
Because I also fish mobile and I don't want two augers. I have the same kit for fishing mobile that I do for the hardside. Nothing stays in my hardside because it all gets stolen all the time, it comes off the ice every night and I want a nice light auger. Someday when you are more experienced at fishing you might understand lol
One thing I still fail to understand, is why the Kdrill has all those flights, with you have to lift it out to clear the chips anyway???
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I don't understand why they tell you to do that, I never have and it's not been a problem
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Why would you need an ultralight drill auger if your fishing in a cabin on the ice all day lol..
I think it would be because of fumes from Gas Augers. Reopening holes isn't my thing either but you can't leave a shed on a lake in my Area.
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I don't understand why they tell you to do that, I never have and it's not been a problem
That's good, I've needed to lift my Mora 6" to clear chips in deeper ice, but running a gear box, it takes it like a gas auger...
I can see the need for old holes on a hard side..
You can reopen holes with a Mora, its just not as pretty. You need to feather the downfeed more than usual.. I'm sure the gearbox might make a difference on old holes too..
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Yeah, my buddy with a house next to mine on the lake uses a shaver blade to reopen holes in his house, sometimes it's rugged but not exactly a problem. His is an Ion. The big thing I notice is the shaver blades with electric are effortless. There is absolutely zero down-pressure needed. A chipper blade like a Jiffy or my K-drill seems to need a slight amount of down pressure. His Ion basically sucks itself into the ice, it's amazing.
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Because I also fish mobile and I don't want two augers. I have the same kit for fishing mobile that I do for the hardside. Nothing stays in my hardside because it all gets stolen all the time, it comes off the ice every night and I want a nice light auger. Someday when you are more experienced at fishing you might understand lol
Oh, so because you fish from a "hardside" or Shanty as the rest of the world knows them as, im not as experienced as you..Huh who knew.. Here i thought i didnt fish from a shanty because i dont like sitting on my duff in the same spot all day..
Im sure everyone who buys the kdrill does so because they fish from "hardsides" and have to reopen holes regularly lol.. Or maybe, just maybe, thats a small percentage of the owners, and most use them just like every other drill auger out there. But again, what do i know.
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Oh, so because you fish from a "hardside" or Shanty as the rest of the world knows them as, im not as experienced as you..Huh who knew.. Here i thought i didnt fish from a shanty because i dont like sitting on my duff in the same spot all day..
Im sure everyone who buys the kdrill does so because they fish from "hardsides" and have to reopen holes regularly lol.. Or maybe, just maybe, thats a small percentage of the owners, and most use them just like every other drill auger out there. But again, what do i know.
LOL! lighten up buddy, it's a dumb forum. Relax, maybe you'll enjoy yourself! Lol
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LOL! lighten up buddy, it's a dumb forum. Relax, maybe you'll enjoy yourself! Lol
Oh i get it, you just sling insults at random people on the internet for fun. My bad. You're much funnier now. :cookoo:
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Jeezus, this is worse than the Chevy vs Ford Debate... ;D Fish your own way.....If someone wants to run a K drill...let them run a K drill....IF someone wants to run something else like a Mora....Then they can run that.....Too many people think their own chosen way to get the job done is the only way... ;) We have a saying in hiking "Hike your own hike"... The same needs to be said about fishing...The old bazturd out there with a spud and a Schooly rod is probably kickin everyone's azz anyway... ;D
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It's no secret that a shaver type blade is less agressive and will drill more holes on a battery charge than a chipper blade. Speed and number of holes drilled shoudn't be the only deciding factors. You need to consider weight (8" vs 8" and whether or not you will be using a clam plate) you need to consider redrilling old holes and maybe using it on dirty ice and how much of ice you are drilling (extension). This guy does a good jog of doing a simple demo and describing the pros/cons of each. There are instances when a shave blade is preferred and others when a chipper works better. If you are looking to save a few bucks and just want to make some holes, I think the best value is a good ol hand auger with a drill attachment and device to keep it from falling through the hole. If you want to step it up and still use a shaver, get a nils and if you want a chipper get a kdrill. Be sure to not cheap out on the drill/battery and you wont' be disappointed with your auger selection.
Good review...Thanks for posting..
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Wow! I have the 7 inch mora which I could put 8 inch blades on Makes the $250 k-drill look like it might be returned. That trigger breaking looks scary though.
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Wow! I have the 7 inch mora which I could put 8 inch blades on Makes the $250 k-drill look like it might be returned. That trigger breaking looks scary though.
You know I was thinking about that trigger also. I think some one could modify it a little where it evens out the pressure on the trigger.
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Being I'm waiting for my plate to come in the mail I called Clam they said that they have never heard of a trigger problem ever. Not saying it did not happen to the guy it did. In another auger post someone posted pictures and it looks straight on looks like a installation issue? Before I forget I had the first clam plate had issues with that but the new ones are good is what i'm gathering.
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Regarding the broken trigger issue, a few thoughts..
The Clam plate has been around long enough as to where if there was a trigger issue, it would have been brought up well before this season...
In the video he demonstrated how if he "locked" (meaning the position in the middle, between forward and reverse) his drill, the Clam trigger mechanism can put a lot of pressure on the trigger when you try to run it when you don't want it to function... Stupid.. Equals, locking your breaks really hard and stomping the gas pedal, and then complaining about a broken drive shaft.. When something isn't supposed to go, and you force it, it breaks... The drill didn't fail, the Clam plate did what it was supposed to do, the operator was to blame..
Why lock your drill then try to make it go??? Or when you get to the ice and your auger won't run, squeeze the trigger extra hard, yeah that'll do it.. Lol
A final note for anyone still worried about it, some bees wax, soap, chap stick, might work for a little better sliding on the works...
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Ice Scratcher that makes sense, thanks
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Regarding the broken trigger issue, a few thoughts..
The Clam plate has been around long enough as to where if there was a trigger issue, it would have been brought up well before this season...
In the video he demonstrated how if he "locked" (meaning the position in the middle, between forward and reverse) his drill, the Clam trigger mechanism can put a lot of pressure on the trigger when you try to run it when you don't want it to function... Stupid.. Equals, locking your breaks really hard and stomping the gas pedal, and then complaining about a broken drive shaft.. When something isn't supposed to go, and you force it, it breaks... The drill didn't fail, the Clam plate did what it was supposed to do, the operator was to blame..
Why lock your drill then try to make it go??? Or when you get to the ice and your auger won't run, squeeze the trigger extra hard, yeah that'll do it.. Lol
A final note for anyone still worried about it, some bees wax, soap, chap stick, might work for a little better sliding on the works...
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After watching the video again I would have to say the same. OE Operator Error.
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This past weekend I placed my Dewalt/Clam Plate/8"Kdrill to front rack of my ATV ...then I placed a thick garment storage bag over it for the dust/salt/sand that I experience while traveling on the road.. bungeed that down...when I got to my location...my set up would not work ...couple choice words later noticed the trigger lock was engaged .
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Really this is very important...
While traveling, be sure to at least lock your trigger, even better, remove the battery..
That Clam plate trigger is easy to bump on, even a bare drill trigger can accidentally get pushed...
I've already heard a couple stories about augers coming to life at the wrong times....
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Really this is very important...
While traveling, be sure to at least lock your trigger, even better, remove the battery..
That Clam plate trigger is easy to bump on, even a bare drill trigger can accidentally get pushed...
I've already heard a couple stories about augers coming to life at the wrong times....
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I remove the battery ...had my drill jump alive on me securing some gear in my sled atop my ATV..learns ya quick.
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Wow! I have the 7 inch mora which I could put 8 inch blades on Makes the $250 k-drill look like it might be returned. That trigger breaking looks scary though.
The 7" mora blade width is actua bigger than the 8" K-drill. 7" mora is 7.5" while the 8" K-drill is 7.25".
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I remove the battery ...had my drill jump alive on me securing some gear in my sled atop my ATV..learns ya quick.
X3! Happened to me Friday. Had loaded my sled with the larger items including the Mud Mixer/Nils and was tossing the smaller, more crammable stuff on top when something(may have been my beers) :whistle: I tossed in hit the trigger on the Mud Mixer. Yeah, it wakes you right up! LOL! Cover was on and none the worse for wear, but the new rule is: Battery is DISCONNECTED from power head when not actively drilling holes. End of story.
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Quote: The 7" mora blade width is actually bigger than the 8" K-drill. 7" mora is 7.5" while the 8" K-drill is 7.25".
Wow thats an eye opener is the 6 inch mora actually 7 inches?
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X3! Happened to me Friday. Had loaded my sled with the larger items including the Mud Mixer/Nils and was tossing the smaller, more crammable stuff on top when something(may have been my beers) :whistle: I tossed in hit the trigger on the Mud Mixer. Yeah, it wakes you right up! LOL! Cover was on and none the worse for wear, but the new rule is: Battery is DISCONNECTED from power head when not actively drilling holes. End of story.
Shoot! Lol...
Just think if she came alive while under tow on an 8 mile trip behind a sled to Erie walleye grounds... :o
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buddy borrowed the kdrill (he went north before we had good ice here) and when he got back he said the first 20 minutes of his outing was the worst because he couldnt' figure out the drill. at first he said it wouldn't go at all and then after a few minutes of fidgeting realized the lock was on. THEN he was like, why is this drilling so poorly. and after every hole he would get soaked by water. until he realized that its supposed to be on 1.
was pretty funny when he called.
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Quote: The 7" mora blade width is actually bigger than the 8" K-drill. 7" mora is 7.5" while the 8" K-drill is 7.25".
Wow thats an eye opener is the 6 inch mora actually 7 inches?
The 6" mora is exactly 6 inches accordingto my tape measure. And as a correction, the 8" k drill is 7 3/8" actual diameter (according to an owner). So the 7" mora is 1/8" wider than the 8" K-drill. I'm not complaining, it just seems that there's a lot of variation between manufacturers
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The 6" mora is exactly 6 inches accordingto my tape measure. And as a correction, the 8" k drill is 7 3/8" actual diameter (according to an owner). So the 7" mora is 1/8" wider than the 8" K-drill. I'm not complaining, it just seems that there's a lot of variation between manufacturers
What I’d like to know is what genius said, “Hey, let’s make it 7 3/8” in diameter to save some cash but call it an 8” Auger!” Did they really think no one would notice??? Laughable stupidity and insulting! Probably cut from the same cloth as the moron that decided to cut a 1 1/2” X 3 1/2” board and still call it a 2X4!
DN
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That would be the Moron family. They go back many generations.
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Going back to the clam plate......
You guys are 100% right when it comes to the positioning of the drill.
While I have the Gen 2 plate....I learned things the hard way with it in year one. There are a lot of "adjustable" parts.....they all need to be adjusted correctly or issues happen.....One of the things I've seen guys posting on here was a spring modification so the lever will kick back disengaging the auger.....I had issues with mine sticking and not working like it should......once you get the adjustments correct and things correctly tightened down the drill trigger should line up correctly with the trigger and have enough force to kick out. Once set no issues.....no need for the spring......just looking at the way the guy had it set up on his drill in the video.....it doesn't look like he had it adjusted even close to what he should have. While you can just slap the drill in and it works......getting it to work smoothly that's some time to get the adjustments right.
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Quote: The 7" mora blade width is actually bigger than the 8" K-drill. 7" mora is 7.5" while the 8" K-drill is 7.25".
Wow thats an eye opener is the 6 inch mora actually 7 inches?
Better have your measuring instruments calibrated. 2 different k-Drills I've seen and measured are 7.50 inches. If the driving parts are good and running concentric you'll cut a 7.50 inch hole. Maybe someone will start a class-action lawsuit against whoever and everyone will get their money back.
Better yet next years blades will be bigger and will cut a 8.50 diameter hole. NOT out of the question as Mora and Nils 8 inch auger bodies are a full 1 inch smaller than the cutting head.
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One of the things I've seen guys posting on here was a spring modification so the lever will kick back disengaging the auger.....I had issues with mine sticking and not working like it should......once you get the adjustments correct and things correctly tightened down the drill trigger should line up correctly with the trigger and have enough force to kick out.
Exactly, no springs needed, my trigger spring works great to stop the auger, although I use a bushing to keep the trigger handle from falling toward the main (blue) plate, and flopping back and forth...
(https://s17.postimg.cc/wqjavpyaj/IMG_20160928_112114688.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/wqjavpyaj/)
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I replaced my rubber band contraption with a castration band on the power lever to act as a stop like one of the other posters suggested (and very similar to Scratcher’s bushing solution). Money! Works perfectly!
(https://s17.postimg.cc/yng10a9iz/84_A931_E3-_BC8_E-46_E9-_B9_B6-9153552_B43_DF.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/yng10a9iz/)
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I replaced my rubber band contraption with a castration band on the power lever to act as a stop like one of the other posters suggested (and very similar to Scratcher’s bushing solution). Money! Works perfectly!
(https://s17.postimg.cc/yng10a9iz/84_A931_E3-_BC8_E-46_E9-_B9_B6-9153552_B43_DF.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/yng10a9iz/)
Yep, works the same, I probably would have used one of those, c-bands, but never been around em, thank God! ;)
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Yep, works the same, I probably would have used one of those, c-bands, but never been around em, thank God! ;)
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The Castration band is a simple solution that works flawlessly on the Clam Plate