Author Topic: Snowmobile studs (Read 24409 times)

Mainehazmt · « **on:** Jul 20, 2008, 05:48 AM »

Im starting my plans now for Moosiepaloosie! Last year as you all know when we went ice fishing at Moosehead lake and stayed atLawrences cabins, well the unstudded snowmobiles couldnt make it up the hill due to ice well now I want some! is there a minimum number studs to put in to be effective? and is it hard to do? after all I have a 93 skidoo safarri with a 377 in it that I pull a Otter village with. sled is in perfect shape but is older so wouldnt want to spend a mint on it

pegasus · « **Reply #1 on:** Jul 20, 2008, 06:47 AM »

I thought you were bragging John by being a Smowmobile "Stud".

pooley · « **Reply #2 on:** Jul 20, 2008, 07:03 AM »

he's not?

Mainehazmt · « **Reply #3 on:** Jul 20, 2008, 08:24 AM »

nope no I

billditrite · « **Reply #4 on:** Jul 20, 2008, 11:06 AM »

i beleive they are supposed to be installed in increments of 48. i think 96 would be perfect for your sled. they will make a huge difference in the way your sled hooks up...ps make sure you got decent carbides in your ski or ya wa=ont be able to turn aftah

Mainehazmt · « **Reply #5 on:** Jul 20, 2008, 11:50 AM »

hard to do? you know the hill Im talking about or should it be done by a reputal dealer

billditrite · « **Reply #6 on:** Jul 20, 2008, 02:53 PM »

its not that hard to do. but you should find out the best pattern for your track and sled.

pegasus · « **Reply #7 on:** Jul 20, 2008, 05:49 PM »

I didn't worry about going up the hill, it was the walking down the hill that made me think how many broken bones this trip.

pikeking · « **Reply #8 on:** Jul 20, 2008, 10:41 PM »

Ok boys, what am I getting into going on this trip? I don't have a sled but I have a four wheeler. Honda foreman 400 with the big foot kit, winch 4x4, and big ITP knobby tires. Will that be ok or should I bring the studded boots and the pull sled?

billditrite · « **Reply #9 on:** Jul 21, 2008, 05:22 AM »

the wheeler will make it no problem...but the boots are good idea so ya dont slide down the hill after you get off the wheeler

Mainehazmt · « **Reply #10 on:** Jul 21, 2008, 05:24 AM »

Quote from: pikeking on Jul 20, 2008, 10:41 PM

Ok boys, what am I getting into going on this trip? I don't have a sled but I have a four wheeler. Honda foreman 400 with the big foot kit, winch 4x4, and big ITP knobby tires. Will that be ok or should I bring the studded boots and the pull sled?

just be nice to the bear!

imajeep · « **Reply #11 on:** Jul 24, 2008, 12:07 PM »

people have the tendancy to go a little nuts when doing studs, using like 144 or whatever.....
thats great if you are racing or doing snowcross.
for fishing, having a little slip in the track on ice helps you steer the sled, it also helps on the days when you are trying to use a little body english.
I reccomend no more than 90ish.....in fact, i forget what is avail in the 70s for patterns, but i suspect that you would be happy there too.
they will really help on hills like you were saying, and on days of glare ice, help then a lot too.

tracker 1 · « **Reply #12 on:** Jul 24, 2008, 01:28 PM »

Quote from: imajeep on Jul 24, 2008, 12:07 PM

people have the tendancy to go a little nuts when doing studs, using like 144 or whatever.....
thats great if you are racing or doing snowcross.
for fishing, having a little slip in the track on ice helps you steer the sled, it also helps on the days when you are trying to use a little body english.
I reccomend no more than 90ish.....in fact, i forget what is avail in the 70s for patterns, but i suspect that you would be happy there too.
they will really help on hills like you were saying, and on days of glare ice, help then a lot too.

I agree with you. If you don't have any slip that is not good for the sled. I just had an experienced friend put some on mine a Skidoo Grand touring (2 UP) and he said no more then 96. He did it with a drill .Don't forget the backers for those picks. Those cleat kits are not cheap and you don't want to have any pull out when you gas it . You maybe able to find some on Ebay.

Mainehazmt · « **Reply #13 on:** Jul 25, 2008, 05:58 AM »

Im really looking for the minimum neededI dont go fast think 35 max last year lol its just for help on icey hills occasionally I did find some that ya screwed in like sheet metal screws

imajeep · « **Reply #14 on:** Jul 25, 2008, 12:30 PM »

those are really rough on the track, they cause a lot of torque on the track treads.... and sometimes tear them off.
especially if you are in high traction areas.... like bare ice.....

i reccomend buying like 60 or so and a pattern sheet, then get er done.... places like "automatic distributors " in bangor can help u with this process.

Mainehazmt · « **Reply #15 on:** Jul 25, 2008, 03:24 PM »

lol thats like a 100 bucks away lol

imajeep · « **Reply #16 on:** Jul 25, 2008, 10:07 PM »

its a solid investment in both your happiness and the fact that when installed corectly, they will add life to your track.

i think you will be happy with the results for years to com

jacksmelt71 · « **Reply #17 on:** Oct 09, 2008, 12:25 PM »

i agree. go w/ reg . studs. replacement track will run ya over $700.a couple hundred is nothing. go w/ the lesser amount of picks. the chisel shaped ones work best for work applications and last longer. they really save your back if you hit a slush pocket. gives you that little extra to get you through . trust me i speak from experience.

WANNABFISHIN · « **Reply #18 on:** Oct 09, 2008, 01:16 PM »

I would with the 72 stud pattern all in the middle of the track. Outside ones tend to rip out easier. The less you have the easier they rip out when the track spins trying to go up that big hill. Too many and you wont be able to steer and are not needed for your application.

Mainehazmt · « **Reply #19 on:** Oct 09, 2008, 01:21 PM »

After talking to the Ski doo dealer he recomended 2 studs then skip a row then 2 more offset some ect ect as Im not the type to run it hard or get on it hard bet this new sled never sees 40 again lol

Fishingfool_2 · « **Reply #20 on:** Oct 09, 2008, 07:33 PM »

If you only use the sled for ice fishing and don't plan to do alot of trail riding try these
http://www.studboytraction.com/hill_climb_ice_screws.htm

I put a bout a hundred of these in the track of my Polaris long track and have been using if that way for about 5 years. As far as I know I haven't lost any and they give pretty good traction on ice.

Did I mention they're CHEAP?

LINGUINI · « **Reply #21 on:** Oct 09, 2008, 07:38 PM »

Quote from: Mainehazmt on Jul 21, 2008, 05:24 AM

just be nice to the bear!

HEY I HAVE FIRST DIBB ON THE BEAR THIS YEAR I STILL HAVE BIT MARKS ON MY HEAD FROM IT LMAO

LINGUINI · « **Reply #22 on:** Oct 09, 2008, 07:39 PM »

JUST KEEP IN MIND YOU MIGHT NEED MORE THEN THE STUDS TUNNEL PROTECTER ECT.

duck doctor · « **Reply #23 on:** Oct 09, 2008, 08:07 PM »

I noticed that one person did mention studding the inside of your track. Seriously, studs on the outside with kill your track quicker than anything. My 95 EXT 580 was studded on the outside prior to me owning it. Almost every outside stud ripped out. The ones on the inside stayed in place. You will notice a HUGE difference between a non-studded/studded sled. My Pantera is not studded but it will be as soon as I get a chance. There is a new company based in NH that is making quality studs for cheap. I think they are around the Portsmouth area.

pete fish · « **Reply #24 on:** Oct 09, 2008, 08:20 PM »

48 studs would be fine for that sled and they should run between a 1/4 inch and 3/8 above the lug you may want to add a more agressive carbide style wear bar to balace it out and as far as rubbing on the tunnel the protective strips are cheap insurance....reason a recomend 48 and not alot of the outher numbers ppl on here have used is because it is a very common number used on low hp sleds and there are kits that come with the cutters and patterns as that is a standard order size for traction on a low hp sled

duck doctor · « **Reply #25 on:** Oct 09, 2008, 08:32 PM »

Hey Hazzy..........I ran dual carbides this past winter for the first time.....I would never go back!

pete fish · « **Reply #26 on:** Oct 09, 2008, 08:51 PM »

Quote from: WANNABFISHIN on Oct 09, 2008, 01:16 PM

I would with the 72 stud pattern all in the middle of the track. Outside ones tend to rip out easier. The less you have the easier they rip out when the track spins trying to go up that big hill. Too many and you wont be able to steer and are not needed for your application.

thats why you run carbides so you have control of the front and rear

WANNABFISHIN · « **Reply #27 on:** Oct 10, 2008, 06:31 AM »

Quote from: pete fish on Oct 09, 2008, 08:51 PM

thats why you run carbides so you have control of the front and rear

I know he could put carbides on it. But why spend the extra money if you are only fishing? The less studs the easier it will turn with less carbides. Why not make this sled a monster and go with 192 studs and 8" of carbide up front. That will really make this 377 hook up.

Mainehazmt · « **Reply #28 on:** Oct 10, 2008, 07:36 AM »

the one Im studding up is a 1996 formula III 600

Ill prob also do the Safari (last years sled)

the formula III prob never go over 40 again when I trail ride its about 25-30 mph anyway

ALASKANSS · « **Reply #29 on:** Oct 10, 2008, 08:36 AM »

96 picks would be perfect for your f3 on a 15x121 inch track, that would be 2 studs per rib,also make sure your tunnel protectors are in good shape. woodys gold diggers are the most reliable studs in the industry to date.1 inch would be the correct lenght to buy.gold diggers are currently running about 1.65 ea.plus the cost of a steel backer at .25 ea.

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Author Topic: Snowmobile studs (Read 24409 times)