Author Topic: New Gas Auger Break In, and Strikemaster Oil questions. (Read 10891 times)

FishDeepCreek · « **on:** Nov 09, 2003, 08:51 PM »

Anyone break in a new gas auger? I picked up a Mag2000 gas auger over the weekend. I noticed that the tank had 2 cycle oil residue in it. Was thinking maybe Strikemaster already broke it in at the factory. I didnt see any things to follow in the manual (the manual seems to not tell too much!) for break in. Also does anyone know if the Strikemaster smokeless oil has a fuel stabilant in it like some 2 cycle oil does?

nocash0000 · « **Reply #1 on:** Nov 10, 2003, 05:42 AM »

FDC,if that mag has a tecumseh motor,they recomend 5 tanks of gas=10 hour's of run time to fully break-in. i have a jiffy legend 3hp and that's what my paper work say's, and not to run it full throttle during breakin.you should be able to get a owner's manual on line from them.

fishmanj · « **Reply #2 on:** Nov 10, 2003, 11:01 AM »

Will you have problems with you auger if you don't break it in? Good question. I'm sure I didn't break mine in when I received it as a gift and mainly because I don't recall seeing anything about breaking it in. The auger works good most of the time but it has a tendency to want to bog down at certain times. i have only used maybe 3 or 4 tanks of gas in the 2 years I have owned it and the plug is original but is in great condition.

missfishylicious · « **Reply #3 on:** Nov 10, 2003, 03:24 PM »

my hubby has the same auger the manual says to use twice the normal oil quantity for the first gallon of fuel on a new engine and two differant mixes 32:1 for NMMA oil and 24:1 for non NMMA oil see page 4 of your manual thats all i find.my hubby had trouble with stalling at the end of the first season had the carb tweeked and now it runs great and had no trouble cutting with it .it just stalled when idleing that one time.

kenelz · « **Reply #4 on:** Nov 10, 2003, 09:16 PM »

This has been kicked around here before. To get a quick glimps of what goes on in the break in process, go to this link
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
This talks about car, snomobile and motorcycle racing engines, but says the same thing applys to even lawnmower engins. Basicly the break in is a myth. Check it out and read the whole thing.

mngonefishing · « **Reply #5 on:** Nov 10, 2003, 09:57 PM »

rule of thumb for break-in. warm it up gooooooood. dont go full bore untill at least the second tank full. good luck

bushbunny · « **Reply #6 on:** Nov 10, 2003, 11:13 PM »

Use premium gas with whatever mix oil you choose. I have used Opti 2, at 100:1 (manufacturer warranted) in my auger for 15 years. I burn about 15 gallons/yr. The Opti 2 is smokeless, and comes in packs that mix 1 gallon of fuel at a time, giving you a fresh mix at all times, to the extent of being able to finish off the winters end in the weedeater or power saw next summer!!

nocash0000 · « **Reply #7 on:** Nov 11, 2003, 05:33 AM »

BB,tell us you are fishing every day arn't you.15 gal- is alot of gas ,wish i was that lucky.

bushbunny · « **Reply #8 on:** Nov 11, 2003, 07:16 AM »

Should read 5 gal.

mngonefishing · « **Reply #9 on:** Nov 11, 2003, 07:17 PM »

even 5 gal. I wish i could get that much time on the ice. steve a friend of mine drills 10 to 15 holes each time he goes out. Said he use about 5 gal. last yr. if steve isn't at work he is fishing

nocash0000 · « **Reply #10 on:** Nov 11, 2003, 07:40 PM »

i use around 3 gal- and when i bought my jiffy i did almost double the oil for the first gallon and tryed to take it easy,had it 4 years and it run's like it did when i bought it.once in awhile i have to adjust the air-fuel mix,alway's have a small tool set and spare plug on hand.oh had to chang the fuel cap,to a metal one the plastic one started to leak.

Bob_G · « **Reply #11 on:** Nov 11, 2003, 08:04 PM »

I have the mag 2000, I do not remember anything about breaking in the motor. I have had it since 2002 and did not get to use it much(if at all) The ice was not real good that year. I did however use it last year and discovered that it had a sticking throttle. I just emailed them to see what could be done (I know, I know, what took me so long right?)
You guys/gals were talking about how much gas you used in your augers I have yet to use a full gallon in two years and I love to ice fish. I am either real lazy or real good ( I think the first is more applicable

)
Here's to a long and productive ice season. I just wish it would get here already

nocash0000 · « **Reply #12 on:** Nov 12, 2003, 05:54 AM »

ok,jiffy 30 series.pg3 your new jiffy ice drill and it's engine are made to precise tolerances to preform at their best after the engine and other moving parts are ''broken in'' a broken-in engine and gear trian have greatly reduced frictional resistance and your new jiffy power ice drill will devlop it's maximum power as the result of the break-in part's mating process.it will take about ten hour's of normal operation before your new jiffy power ice drill begins to benfit from the break-in process.this is approximately five full tank's of gasoline.especially during the break-in period,avoid full throttle operation without a load applied(drilling ice) i think this will apply to all tecumseh engine's.

FishDeepCreek · « **Reply #13 on:** Nov 12, 2003, 06:12 AM »

Well being an ex Auto Tech, I do belive break in is true. Alot of autos and equipment come from the factories already bench run/broken in, but not all. Piston rings need to seat, as well as valve trains, and any kinda of gears such as gearboxes. Depends on the engine type, and materials used.In fact one big drawback in using synthetic type motor oil such as mobil one, is that it does not allow things to seat in. I recall when working at the Porsche Dealer, we had problems on the 996 Turbos, with oil consumption. The factory told us to drain the synthetic oil (they came from the factory with mobil 1) and run conventional for a few thousand miles, then put back sythetic. The procedure did work! I did recheck my manuals. The auger came with both a Strikemaster manual, and a Tecumseh, neither of them stated a break in period or procedures. Im thinking maybe the new production ones are broken in on the bench or is no longer required.

nocash0000 · « **Reply #14 on:** Nov 12, 2003, 05:51 PM »

FDC,that very well could be true.what ever anybody doe's i hope they do the right thing. fish for everybody this winter on me.

Icenutter · « **Reply #15 on:** Nov 13, 2003, 07:09 AM »

DeepCreek,

I bought a Jiffy 2HP over the summer and I checked both the Tecumseh and Jiffy manual and neither one says anything about breaking in. I did notice that in the Tecumseh manual for every 2 gallons of gas to use 11 oz. of oil and in the Jiffy manual is says to use 10.7 oz. per 2 gallons. I went with the Tecumseh manual on this one. I would rather run it a little rich when it is brand new.

Da_Roc · « **Reply #16 on:** Nov 13, 2003, 11:35 AM »

Hi Gang!
We talked about breaking in your engines and gears
on another equipment thread. We have come to the conclusion that if you dont run your auger anyway how do u even know it will run for more than five minutes.
The other question was how do u run it for extended period with out having to hold on to it. The solution was to clamp it to a ladder between two board take the drill off and let it free wheel about 1/3 throttle for a half hour. We were using a gas mixture of twice the oil mix of the manufacture during break in. We then drained the little leftover heavy mixed gas oil out and refilled with the proper mix. We did this with a friends new auger and it starts up really easily in severe cold.. We put it in a 0 degree meat locker our butcher had and when we started it it ran on the first pull. So we believe in running the engine and gears in so when it is really cold we have total confidence in a one start pull!!
I also believe in synthetic oil for the drive gears but most manufactures already have it in there. Only the old ones use hypoid gear oil(90 weight).
Fishing is no time to worry about or have a hard starting auger. This is just my opinion I have been a mechanic for close to 30 years.
Da-Roc

kenelz · « **Reply #17 on:** Nov 13, 2003, 08:12 PM »

I surprised at how some mechanics on this thread havent a clue on the break in process, I want to submit this link again
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

nocash0000 · « **Reply #18 on:** Nov 14, 2003, 05:22 AM »

found my other operator's manual and maintance instruction book for tecumseh. look's like it was printed 11-1-97, pg2 do not use gasoling containing methanol(wood alcohol).fuel containing up to 10%(gasohol)or up to 15% MTBE(methyl tertiary butyl ether)may be used but requires special care when the engine is not used for extended periods. aloso the fuel mix ratio is 32:1 for new engine's use twice the normal oil quantity for the first gallon of fuel.this is model av520 and av600 , 3hp

FishDeepCreek · « **Reply #19 on:** Nov 14, 2003, 05:29 AM »

That article like stated is contreversal. First of all I dont know many pistons with one ring on them. Most have 2 sealing rings for combustion, usally the slits are turned 180 apart from each other, and there is also an oil. scraping ring. I think that article is a generalization article, based on a guys experience. He claims that the honing job is what makes a difference. Also keep in mind I used to work on a different breed of autos. One practice that was very common on Porsche cars was the use of Nicasil in the cylinder bores. Its done by impregnating the cylinder wall with silcone beads, the result was a very slick surface! Ive removed head off of cars with over 100k- no signs of wear. But again thats a different ball game. I think I would follow whatever a manufacturers procedure is instead of what that guys states. Also judging by his Craftsman tool box in the background, id question his integrity (just kidding about that part)

mngonefishing · « **Reply #20 on:** Nov 14, 2003, 06:18 AM »

we all have are ways of doing things. Some work some do not. I have an older jiffy and the only thing replaced on it were some gaskets, spark plugs and to adjust the carb. thats for the engin. now if i could just get it to sharpen it self

I will use about 3 gal a year. I dont try to save the gas over summer. I use it up in the weed whip.

bluecaddisfly · « **Reply #21 on:** Nov 14, 2003, 06:21 AM »

MY RULE OF THUMB FOR ANY SMALL ENGINE IS TO VARY THE ENGINE SPEED THROUGH THE FIRST TWO TANKS OF FUEL. AND WITH A TWO STROKE MOTOR, ADD ABOUT 50% MORE OIL THE FIRST TANK, IF IT CALLS FOR 5 OZ PER GAL, GO WITH 7.5 OZ PER GAL FOR THE FIRST TANK.
I'VE BEEN DOING IT THAT WAY FOR 25 YRS AND HAVE NEVER HAD A PROBLEM.

kenelz · « **Reply #22 on:** Nov 14, 2003, 10:15 AM »

Right FishDeep and MN, and you can never argue with success! So if adding more oil, synthetic or even Slick 50 during the break in works for you, thats the way to go.
I dont want Scott to send us to the Grumpy Old Mans room, LOL.
My thought is that that breaking in an engine is basicly letting the rings/cylinder wear together (seat). It seems to me that adding extra oil, synthetic oil or Slick 50 just doesnt help that process. But I would do what the manufactor recommends also.
We had a blizzard here on Wednsday, but its already warming up, darn, I'm getting itchy.

Da_Roc · « **Reply #23 on:** Nov 14, 2003, 10:22 AM »

Hi Gang!
I do agree with most of the comments about running in the engines. No matter how you do it you should not take it out of the box, take it to your favorite ice, and hit it full throttle for a minute it takes you to cut thru then shut it down. I dont think your auger will last long. In motor cycles the engines are broke in different for racing because there life span might be only about two hours. The rings are damaged cause of really hard break in and pistons dont get dirty or carboned up because in reality they get changed every two races. That is why the article doesnt relate to our application fully! But there are really good points in the article othere than that. By the way I use Snap-on or Mac tools. I am only giving suggestions and what has worked for me take it or leave it its your choice. I still want to see ya all fishing out there this year (ALOT)!!! If your auger breaks or wont start you can use mine then. It starts every time!
Thanks
Da-Roc

BIG MEAN · « **Reply #24 on:** Nov 16, 2003, 07:26 AM »

HELLO HARD H2O NUTS,
I SAY RUN IT LIKE YOU STOLD IT.BUT LET IT
WARM UP 1-2 MIN FIRST.
BIG MEAN

cold_feet · « **Reply #25 on:** Nov 16, 2003, 08:31 AM »

Here's my 2cents
The break in time should be done at home with a heavier oil mix for at least one tank of fuel. I like the idea of putting it on a ladder but anything will do Garbage can ect. Do not run it above 1/2 throttle for that first tank. A short full throttle blast won't hurt but don't hold it full throttle for a long period of time. The auger is a 2 stroke not 4 so their is no cam break in to worry about only a ring seat. Ive worked on race cars for a while now and I will tell you all DO NOT USE ANY SYNTHECTIC OIL or any oil additive Slick50 ect in any engine during break in time. It makes the moveing parts to slick especialy the rings they need to take a set in the bore and remove the honeing markes so the piston rings seal tight against the cyl. wall so you get the full amount of compression We always waited about 2 races or 100 laps till we put in Synthetic oil. The gas you use also maters do not use a Methanol based gas. It will lean out the motor and premature piston falure will happen The alcohol in the methanol doesnt ignite as fast as reg. gasoline so it washes the cyl. walls clean of the oil mix creating friction which wears out pistons and cylinders. And remember the higher the octain in fuel the slower the burn rate Run what they tell you in the book. Reg. to hightest is fine just don't get a fuel with Methanol.

FishDeepCreek
Not trying to start a arguement but it is a 2 stroke, the pistons don't need a oil ring no oil in the crankcase to seal out thats why the pistons only have either one or two compression rings depending on manufacturer. The More seal rings the longer the piston life it will stay off the cyl.bore longer with no scrapeing of the bore.

Cold Feet

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Author Topic: New Gas Auger Break In, and Strikemaster Oil questions. (Read 10891 times)

fishmanj

missfishylicious

mngonefishing

mngonefishing

mngonefishing

BIG MEAN