Tecumseh carb adjustments

[qwerty]

I have an old Husqvarna 2hp gas auger that has a Tecumseh 2 hp engine (TC300) and whenever I towed it in a sled behind a snowmobile, the pounding that the auger took caused the carb to require adjusting.  The dealer said turn the mixture adjustment screw fully clockwise, then turn 1 complete turn counter clockwise and everytime I followed these instructions the auger would start on the 1st pull.  I just bought an Eskimo 3hp Barracuda and I'm having the same problems but it's a larger Tecumseh engine (3hp AV520) so I was wondering if anybody knew the mixture adjustment screw settings for the 3hp Tecumseh engine. Any information would be greatly appreciated.

[jp]

On any small engine I start out with it about 1 to 1-1/2 turns. then adjust it from there.

[shwung79]

I too have the Baracuda and have been considering adjusting the mixture.  It takes like 5 pulls to get it started but when its running boys does it tear up some ice.  Keep me informed on your carb adjustments! Thanks--Kevin

[cold_feet]

querty
Next time you take it out set the carb at home get out on the lake and see if the needle valve if turning if it is. Try takeing the adjustment screw out clean it with starting fluid and put ONE drop of thread locker on the treads let dry and replace. Start the auger and adjust. The locker should hold it in adjustment through the bouncing. The thread locker is made by loctite and can be bought at any auto parts store. Be carefull not to get it on the needle it will gum up just keep it on the treads use very little it is strong stuff and you will be able to get it out if needed.

shwung
How old is the auger? Did it always start like this?  You might have to take the carb. off and give it a good cleaning inside with these small carbs a little varnish will screw them up fast.

Cold Feet

[indeeptreble]

I would have to recomend not using the loctite or any other thead lock if you use that and get the wrong kind or too much you will wish it would only take 5 pulls to start. let alone leave the threads in the carb when you go to turn it with a screwdriver. Here is my best guess after turning it so many times the spring end has probably worn down the face of the carb or the spring seat if this has happened you might be able to shim the spring with some small washers or using a pair of side cutters squeeze them between the coils of the spring which will lenghten the spring allowing it to hold the screw tight. Remember there are a few different types of loctite if you have to use the blue (removable loctite) and wish for chistmas that you will be able to remove the screw  

[shwung79]

Coldfeet--I just got the auger last year Any info?
Thanks
Kevin

[cold_feet]

Kevin
If the auger is that new I would think that a carb adjustment is all that is needed. But to start the new year, drain the gas and put in fresh mix, change the plug and gap to manufactures spec. Now when you start it try not to give it throttle till its running it might be that it is flooding. Give it full choke and start, bring the choke back half way give a little throttle. Push the choke all the way off.  If it stalls repeat. After you get it running and up to temp. try turning in the adjustment screw in slowly till the motor starts to stumble Keep it running with the throttle and turn it back out till it idles on its own. Then hit the throttle and if it stumbles again open it a little more. Keep doing this till it runs good on the idle and wide open. If you get it shut it off then let it get cold and try it again. Full choke no throttle and pull. It should start right off. And it should run great if not just a minor adj. is needed again. Let me Know how it works for you.
Cold Feet

[shwung79]

ColdFeet-  Thanks for the execelent info!! I will be trying it next time I make it out to the garage...Friday  This definately sounds like what it might need, the more I think about it.  One thing Im unsure of is when I start it, usually to keep it running till it warms up, I have to continuosly keep pressing in the primer bulb to or it stumbles and dies.  I dont think the diaphram is bad because after its warmed it runs pretty good till I shut her off and try to restart it again?!?

Thanks again--Kevin

[cold_feet]

Kevin
If you have to keep pressing the primer bulb, it is a lack of fuel at low end. check to see if the fuel line doesnt have a small kink in it somewhere. If it is ok. try turning up the idle a little just so the auger head isnt spinning. If you have adjustment screws open about 1/4 turn then try it. Also try leaving the choke in the 1/2 closed position for a few more seconds.When you use a primer bulb a lot of times you add air in the fuel you might see little bubbles. The auger might start without primming it. Also make sure the fuel cap is venting properly. If all this fails you might need to take the carb off and check it inside to see if their is some sort of obstruction or the needle and seat need to be adjusted.

Sometimes too in the cold of winter condinsation might be takeing place, Running it shutting it off and so on check with the manufacturer to see if you can run Isopropal dry gas. We run it in snowmobiles 1/2 bottle to a tank of fuel, about 12 gal gas. for a 1 gal can I would think about a teaspoon would be good.
Again let me know how this works out good luck.
Cold Feet

[qwerty]

Thank you for all this help!

My last question is - is it standard to have to adjust the carb after towing an auger behind a snowmobile (1-2 mile ride) or is there a technique in transporting an auger that I'm missing?

[cold_feet]

Qwerty
I truely believe that once you set the carb it should be good for a long time. Hauling it on a snowmobile 1 or 2 miles should not take it out of adjustment. What might be happening is the vibration from the ride might be jaring the needle in the seat, and creating pressure in the fuel tank and in doing so allows some fuel to bypass through the carb and into the cylinder creating flooding. The spring that holds the needle closed is very small and any vibration would alow a fuel bypass. Sense the augers to my knowledge do no have a fuel shutoff valve try hauling the auger with the carb pointing in the down position. This will allow any fuel to run out of the carb onto whatever is under it so be carefull. Doing it this way will keep the fuel from entering the cyl and flooding the motor which will give you a false indication that the carb needs adjusting every time you haul it. And sense every auger has a fuel cap with a venting screw in it try opening the vent when you get to the lake before you pack it on the sled. The haul their on the pickup jars the gas and most likely pressurizes the system forcing the fuel past the needle. If you hear air comming out as you open the vent this is most likely what is happening. The other thing you would want to check is the set screw adjutment look at the position the screw is in when it is running perfect then take a screwdriver and see how many turns it takes to close it. Just be carefull do not over tighten just get it to barely touch. then reset back to its origanal spot drive out to your fishing spot and go through the prossess again this will tell you if the adjustment screw is vibrateing in or out during the ride. The thing I see with the problem is most likely its the fuel pressure in the tank or vibration on the needle and seat, Try looking at the auger close to see if their is a spot to add a fuel shutoff valve somewhere on it. They are small and can be added as a inline valve.  It might cure all the problems.
Good Luck and let me know how you make out
Cold Feet

[shwung79]

cold feet - Is there any chance it is set to lean and thats why I have to keep hitting the primer to keep it going?  Just a thought.  Im going to look at it tonight when i get out of work.

Thanks again
Kevin

[cold_feet]

Kevin
Yea I think thats what I posted before, go up a couple posts and check it out their might be a few thing their you might want to try. It sounds like a lack of fuel at low speed. just open up the needle a little. And try turning up the idle it might help to keep it from stalling. Qwerty I believe has a diffrent problem.  Also when you prime it go slow with the bulb try not to stir up the fuel with with a lot of air bubbles you should only have to push the bulb a couple times to get it running. If it shows fuel in the bulb you might want to try not priming at all the choke might do the trick. Good luck
Cold Feet

[shwung79]

Thanks Ill give it a try!!

Kevin

[bud]

you could also safety wire the adj. screw.

[cold_feet]

bud
Running a saftey wire would require cross drilling the adjustment screw to get a all position lock and these screw heads are pretty small to do this. and their might not be anything close enough to lock it to.
Cold Feet

[Rusty Hook]

My auger idles OK but when I hit the throttle it revs then dies, anything on how to fix this before the ice gets thick enough to need a power auger.

[cold_feet]

Rusty Hook
How old is the auger? Does it sound like the choke is on at full throttle. Did you try chokeing it when it was going to stall? If its more than 3 yrs old you might need to take the carb off and clean it inside. It sounds to me like its getting enough fuel to idle but runs out at full throttle. Did you try opening the needle valve a little? If you did and their is no diffrence then the high speed jetting could be plugged or varnished. I went to gander mt yesterday and looked at the stikemaster augers and the 2 hp models have 1 very small screw that could possably be adjustment for the high speed and they have a idle screw thats it. So in other words it has a fixed jetting which means that some of the adjustment has to be done internally with the needle and seat. Older modles might have a 2 needle adjustment which should be marked on the side of the carb H L  H is high speed open this a little.
If you look at the carb. You will see 2 steel covers opposing each other with 4 screws in each. If you take these off 1 side has the needle and seat with the diaphram ( a piece of rubber with a steel biscut on it ) It is on the side where the fuel line comes in. Under it is the needle and seat. Look for a very small tab of spring steel it looks like chrome and under this is the needle. What has to be done is tweak the spring leaver to allow more fuel in. You have to look at the leaver action of the spring to make sure you tweak it in the right direction to open the needle more than it is now. If you hold the carb and blow through the fuel line inlet easely and take your finger and push litely on the spring tab you can tell if the fuel is getting through ok and which way to tweak the spring. Remember thes are small motors and a little tweak goes a long way. Before you even start to mess with these. Their are gaskets on the carb where it mates with the cylinder. You should pick up new ones incase the old rip when takeing off and be carefull of which way they go. Their is a small hole in them that is for the vacuum that operates the diaphram. If you put them back wrong it will not run. These are a very common carb that just about every weedeater and chainsaw uses I believe they are a Walbro carb and anybody who fixes small engines will have the gaskets needed to work on these. Get the carb off the auger and get it apart get a can of gumout spray clean off the outside then take off the 2 covers and gaskets do not spray them then use the spray to clean the carb of varnish a little toothbrush will help scrubbing the surfaces. Now you have to clean all the passages or little holes and fuel and air runners spray through them and let soak. Be carefull of your eyes doing this some of the passages will come right back at you. Do not try to send anything like a small wire though them it will only make things worse let it soak. Go have a cup of coffee then go at it again let soak again then blow it clean one more time. Look to see if their is any gunk left in these holes look where the needle and seat is and make sure it is all clean. If you have a compressor of any kind blow it dry and blow through the passages. Do not use a lot of pressure. If not a can of starting fluid will degrease anything that is on the carb. DO THIS OUTSIDE and away from any flame. It smells like crap but  it will clean any oil or dirt left on the carb let it dry which only takes a few seconds. Now take the carb and put it back together Remember that everthing you put screws in is aluminum so don't over tighten, get it tight but dont strip the threads. While you have the carb off look for adjustment screws get familiar with it. It might sound like a lot but they are quite simple and once you do it right you will always know how to fix them. Setting the needle and seat will be a little tricky but if you do a little at a time you will hit a sweet spot and it will run great. One more thing before you attack this check all possable things before the carb. Fuel line, look for kinks, and make sure it isnt plugged Check fuel cap for propper venting make sure it is getting air though it. And change the spark plug. Put in fresh gas oil.
Let me know how you did

By the way some of the new carb adjustment screws have a 1/4 turn lock on them. A little plastic cap Some of these can be removed and when you get the carb set put it back on it will keep it an close adjustment.
Cold Feet