This is a list of experiences over the years.
>. Light colored tarps let in more light and allow better visibilty in pre-post sun conditions, but also reflect on screens (aqua-vue) of electronics and require shading.
>. Holes cut in the floor require setting up the house, marking holes, moving house, drilling, moving house back again.
Options: a 1 foot section along one of the sides gets cut out so you just cut 4 to 6 holes in a line along the house and just slide it over or an extra flip out section of the floor covers these holes making your 4X8 into a 5 X 8 house. But make sure the tarp wall goes straight up from the base. If it slants back to the house, you'll hit the tarp when sinking the hook!
>. Take into account the rod length when placing the holes.
>. If using a single pole to hold out the sides, the wind will flex the house.
>. The wind flexing the house also reminds you that there should be a fitting for pole(s) rest in so they don't just drop
on the floor when the wind blows it up like a balloon.
>. If you use a canvas tarp, careful on the storage or it will shrink and you will end up with a TeePee also very heavy.
>. If you put runners on the bottom. Screws work best to secure these. Nails pull out when you try to rip the house from being frozen to the lake.
>. Net Lofts hold coats/mittens/tackle kits so they don't get kicked down the holes.
>. If you wedge your clothes between the support poles and the tarp, they will get wet from condensation.
>. A door on each side of the hut works out well. Especially when the person on the closed off section has a small bladder.
>.In North Dakota, It is not legal to have a latch on the inside of the house door to keep it closed. If you use springs, use one on top and bottom of door. They also make little spring loaded pivots for the outside of the house that pop over and hold the door. However, these tend to wear on the tarp when house is collapsed.
>. Most plans put a 2X2 or 2X4 on one end of the house to accomodate the other side folding down. I would suggest putting an offset on the otherside also. This way you can put the poles into the shanty and warp your boards or most importantly, forget them alongside the garage or laying on the ice.
>. Eyebolts on front for the drag rope, Eyebolt on back to tow the sled full of fishing gear. These also work good for anchoring the house to the ice to prevent sailing down the lake.
>. If you plan to leave the house on the "Hot Spot" for a couple of days, some way of latching down the top side of the house when collapsed is necessary so it doesn't pop up and sail away. This helps when dragging the house out also on those windy days to prevent skiing behind the sailing house!
>. Take into account where the artificial lighting goes (lanterns, battery lights).
Hope this helps out some.
