IceShanty.com's Ice Fishing Community
Ice Fishing Tips -Check your local regulations! => Ice Shack Tips => Topic started by: finlessbrown on Aug 16, 2015, 07:13 PM
-
Looking for ideas for a small woodstove. I'd like to find something I can just put a door and legs on rather than building one democracy. It will be going in a 7' 6" x 7' 6" aluminum shanty. Any ideas?
-
Check out Nu-Way stoves. I have their propane model in my deer stand. Works great.
http://nuwaystove.com/product/model-965/
-
Looking for ideas for a small woodstove. I'd like to find something I can just put a door and legs on rather than building one democracy. It will be going in a 7' 6" x 7' 6" aluminum shanty. Any ideas?
I have used Kwikkamp wood stoves in my wall tent for years, no reason they wouldn't work great in an ice shack. If its to big then look into other stoves that are designed for wall tents. you will find something you like for sure.
-
if I am like you then $571 for a wood stove is very unreasonable to pay try these heck it from a sponsor to..
http://www.cabelas.com/catalog/search.cmd?form_state=searchForm&N=0&fsch=true&Ntk=AllProducts&Ntt=outfitter+wood+stoves&x=10&y=6&WTz_l=Header%3BSearch-All+Products
pipe kit for sheep headers stove..
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Sheepherders-Stove-Pipe/744762.uts?destination=%2Fcatalog%2Fproduct.jsp%3FproductId%3D746238&categoryIds=104791680|104757480|104627880|
-
I've seen some made from old 20# propane tank. Personally, I would look into a rocket stove.
-
I might be able to backtrack a garage sale I went too a couple weeks ago there was a nice old black small one there. I was talking to them about it; they definitely wanted to get rid of it.
-
I think I'm going to go with the 20lbs propane tank build, now my question is does anyone think it is necessary to insulate the shanty or will it keep it warm enough?
-
no insulation is fine it will heat it up but if you insulate it will be better you will probably will melt the ice around the shack cause of not isolating meaning snow turns to water... seen concrete slabs heat up from around non insolated garages like the shed or garage was in the middle of the slab and the other edge carried the heat out ten plus feet from the middle of the slab top the outer edges....
-
Harbor Freight, Home Depot, and Ace Hardware all sell small wood stoves for decent prices.
-
I bought a regular, old mailbox from a thrift shop for $4. I flipped the mailbox upside down (so the flat side is up and the arc is down) and have it resting in a metal X cross brace.. With the flat side being up, I can cook on it. Obviously, I had to cut a hole in it for a chimney pipe - but easy, peazy..
No, it won't last forever; but, it will sure be cheaper to buy another for $4 once it fails.
-
noticed this last night model : bk100e is the model number for a barrel stove at northern tool... 30 gallon drums can be used to run it... or what about a harbor freight air tank the kind you pump up with a air compressor and fill tires etc with it...any way I am sure the compressed air cylinder would last longer then a thin walled steel box right? I am sure places like mills fleet farm would have the same stuff to just to mention a sponsor...
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_20894_20894
by air tank I am thinking these.. make a barrel stove out of this tank? or a 7 gallon these might work better?
http://www.harborfreight.com/11-gallon-portable-air-tank-65595.html
-
Have you considered an ammo can woodstove? Run a google search, you will find all kinds of ideas. These are nice because you can store the parts inside the stove for transport or storage, nice and light and compact.
(http://www.ammocanstove.com/uploads/3/0/4/2/3042636/9959825_orig.jpg)
-
I would get an actual wood stove that's lined with fire bricks for safety, the last thing you want to do is go with a cheap improvised stove and end up burning down your shack.
-
I would get an actual wood stove that's lined with fire bricks for safety, the last thing you want to do is go with a cheap improvised stove and end up burning down your shack.
not all have to have fire bricks this one sold by northern tool does not have fore bricks.. most of the time your going to pay $2,000 to $5,000 for a model with fire bricks.. when there not needed proper shielding and proper placement is what is needed you put a stove to close to a wall it will burn it down for sure...you don't use the proper flue exiting threw the building you will burn it down to just how it goes... most trailers only run about $5,000 who in there right mind would put a $5000 stove in a $5000 trailer? most guys would not need that much heat in there trailer any ways or shacks so a little ammo can or even a air tank stove would work best could even check in to military wood /char coal heaters use in korea for the Korean war... you may find one small enough threw a military supply shop to...
here is the link to the non fire brick wood stove.. sold by northern tool
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_346054_346054
-
Put a few inches of sand in the bottom of the stove if the bottom is is not bricked and you are worried about scorching the floor. You can buy fire bricks and line the stove yourself, if you are worried about that.
-
I got a propane tank and started the project, my next question is what's a good way to attach a smoke stack to the tank without welding?
-
use like a 4 to 6 inch hole saw to cut a hole in the tank so it is big enough for standard flue piping mite also want to get a flue damper of some sort? but first make sure the tank is empty or m/t like they say in welding.. any ideas what your planning for a door?
what you could do is a piece of flue pipe down in the four to 6 inch hole and add fingers by slicing along the pipe with a pair of sheet meat snips.... but of cores that does not seal well enough.. this is so it folds over and so you can screw it to the tank? unless you can get some thing made for the hole like a cone that plug the hole.. like sold in that kit from northern tool model number bk100e ... also check some of the hard ware store around you catalogs out in store etc... like tractor supply company , northern tool , Grainger etc ... etc .. see also lowes, home depot see what they recommend...for the pipe and the plug so it does not leak...carbon monoxide poisoning is not fun and is serious... this is why I showed you that 55 gallon drum barrel heater kit mite be worth a shot for that part if needed...or make one like it??
-
I got a propane tank and started the project, my next question is what's a good way to attach a smoke stack to the tank without welding?
just a suggestion:
if your going to do a propane tank mite want to stock up on kingsford charcoal wile you can get those buy two bags for the price of one mite work for you if you get enough to last you the winter.... your going to have to use small chunks of wood like that of a charcoal briquette size see my point on the charcoal.. charcoal puts off a ton of heat to... problem is they really smolder till they get going...
-
I did a 20lb Lp tank build in my shack and it works great just make sure the door seals well so you don't get smoked out. Other tab that it keeps my 6.5 x17 between 90 and 100 if I want. And as for the wood I just useneegular seasoned oak cut into like 6inch life's and two five gallon buckets filull will last all weekend from Friday night unfilled Sunday in 10* weather.
-
When I was at my local Ace Hardware I was looking at this wood stove and it had fire brick on it and it was $259.99. I personally would put fire bricks in if it didn't come with it for the added peace of mine besides they're not very expensive.
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2099067
-
The key items you will want to pay attention to are;
* Door seal, Can you choke the fire down if needed
* Heavy steel to radiate and hold heat
* Good seal where the flu pipe hooks up
* Firebox insulation, not always needed but nice. A very heavy stove wont absolutely need to have it.
* Firebox capacity, do you have firewood already you want to use? Will it fit? or are you going to be acquiring wood as needed.
I have used home made stoves and cheap store bought sheet metal stoves, all the results were unpleasant. They consumed tons of wood and you sweated or froze, there was no good way to regulate heat.
The real stove posted looks like a good way to go.
-
When I was at my local Ace Hardware I was looking at this wood stove and it had fire brick on it and it was $259.99. I personally would put fire bricks in if it didn't come with it for the added peace of mine besides they're not very expensive.
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2099067
for sure is a nice stove but tell you the truth it's to big for the 7.5 by 7.5 floor area he has it 56.25 sqft floor area the guy has for his shelter that heater will heat a 800 sqft home no problem... that stove is a little to over gunning a ice shelter to find sq ft multiply two sides of a square or rectangle together to get the sqft or square footage or floor area... any ways the fire brick are a great idea but they make the load a lot bigger giving the stove more capacity like instead of 800 sqft it may heat 1200 sqft at least that was the theory on the fire brick I read last cause the brick store the heat heating longer releasing slower ... giving more capacity... I think what he is trying to accomplish is a mini stove that will work on the cheap...
me I think a buddy heater would heat it better with a little insulation...but maybe that's just me...you got to factor in how long it take to start up and warm up a room with wood heat mite take a good hour to light and heat the room up to temp buddy heaters are almost instant heat and will heat a room around 200 sqft but not always cheap...cause propane can cost $20 -$30 a tank for a 20 lb tank then there is hauling it out there etc etc now if hauling wood why not just haul the propane? and also got to figure in wood or charcoal $15 for 2x 16 pound bags of charcoal costs to so you can find out which is cheaper/easier/ cleaner to burn / to use ....
-
These style stoves are small & work great. I have one made by Upland in my shack. http://maine.craigslist.org/for/5197951448.html (http://maine.craigslist.org/for/5197951448.html)
-
(http://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/ff369/fishingwithkids/Mobile%20Uploads/0827111151.jpg) (http://s1232.photobucket.com/user/fishingwithkids/media/Mobile%20Uploads/0827111151.jpg.html)
-
(http://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/ff369/fishingwithkids/Mobile%20Uploads/1009111005a.jpg) (http://s1232.photobucket.com/user/fishingwithkids/media/Mobile%20Uploads/1009111005a.jpg.html)
-
Check out four dog stove company. Like you I was looking for a small wood stove. I'm very happy with their product for the price.
-
Here is a woodstove I built for my hut a few years back,
It works awesome, the 1st year though it got so hot in the shanty it was just too much. The trick to that is to put a damper in your chimney pipe so you can adjust exhaust and intake airflow. Less air out = less air in. It is also important that the stove draw outside air, I made a cold air intake out of some aluminum trim coil and a shop vac hose. The hut no longer sucked cold air in through the door to get fresh oxygen, the hot air actually drafted outside. I used a high heat metal roofing storm collar to seal it through the side wall of my hut, that high heat silicone rubber is some really cool stuff I though it may burn, but after 3 seasons has not shown any sign of melt at all and seals airtight! The most important things to try to achieve, airtight door, baffle inside stove to prevent flame from going right up the chimney and thus losing all heat made, barometric damper in chimney to adjust flow, fresh air intake is huge!!!! In my opinion thermal mass such as fire brick or brake rotors etc, just add weight, they will help retain heat and keep the fire going but do you want to drag another 30 lb's? Good luck with your project, keep us posted
-
I made this stove out of a .50 cal ammo can in shop class one day.. took about 2 hours of work with a buddy. Its not the prettiest, and it isn't the most well designed/lacks some features, but it gets the job done! I have it inside a 4x8 spearhouse that is barely insulated with 1" white foamboard and it keeps things plenty warm during Minnesota winters. The only downside to this stove can only take small wood... I mainly use shop scraps of 2x4 or other lumber pieces..
(http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y359/aaroncthompson1/Mobile%20Uploads/DSCN0818_zps79584064.jpg) (http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/aaroncthompson1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSCN0818_zps79584064.jpg.html)
-
I made this stove out of a .50 cal ammo can in shop class one day.. took about 2 hours of work with a buddy. Its not the prettiest, and it isn't the most well designed/lacks some features, but it gets the job done! I have it inside a 4x8 spearhouse that is barely insulated with 1" white foamboard and it keeps things plenty warm during Minnesota winters. The only downside to this stove can only take small wood... I mainly use shop scraps of 2x4 or other lumber pieces..
(http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y359/aaroncthompson1/Mobile%20Uploads/DSCN0818_zps79584064.jpg) (http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/aaroncthompson1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSCN0818_zps79584064.jpg.html)
Now that's a work of art!
-
Now that's a work of art!
Still can't figure out how my buddy convinced me that the box should be upside down.... and all the paint has burnt and flaked off by now, so it looks a little bit better than in that picture... but its still definitely got a unique appearance ;D
-
not all have to have fire bricks this one sold by northern tool does not have fore bricks.. most of the time your going to pay $2,000 to $5,000 for a model with fire bricks.. when there not needed proper shielding and proper placement is what is needed you put a stove to close to a wall it will burn it down for sure...you don't use the proper flue exiting threw the building you will burn it down to just how it goes... most trailers only run about $5,000 who in there right mind would put a $5000 stove in a $5000 trailer? most guys would not need that much heat in there trailer any ways or shacks so a little ammo can or even a air tank stove would work best could even check in to military wood /char coal heaters use in korea for the Korean war... you may find one small enough threw a military supply shop to...
here is the link to the non fire brick wood stove.. sold by northern tool
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_346054_346054
I have that exact Vogelzang stove in my house, and it heats my place pretty good with no bricks.
WAY too big for his 7x7 shack, something smaller would better for him. That Sheepherder from Cabelas looks like the best bet.
-
I would check out the Nu-way wood stove. They have small lightweight wood stoves that are priced right and work well.
-
I have that exact Vogelzang stove in my house, and it heats my place pretty good with no bricks.
WAY too big for his 7x7 shack, something smaller would better for him. That Sheepherder from Cabelas looks like the best bet.
Bing exactly what I am talking about...by the way seen a wood stove at wallmart.com but not sure if it's to big or not? Just kind of glanced at it..
-
Wally World has woodstoves?
Hmmm gotta check into them I guess.
-
This one looks interesting.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Portable-Military-Camping-Steel-Wood-Stove-Tent-Heater-for-Fishing-Camp-Cooking/29415860
-
Plenty of heat.(http://rs976.pbsrc.com/albums/ae246/smagoo2/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151224_163051295_zpsjoranufa.jpg?w=480&h=480&fit=clip)
-
Made this guy from scraps at work. The body is 7x7 rectangular tube. Haven't used it indoors yet, I don't have a permy. Looking to build one this summer for next year. Has 1x1 rectangular tube for legs, 3" sch40 pipe for the exhaust outlet, with a damper in it, then 4" stove pipe for the chimney. I need to add a vent to the bottom of the door, and would like a new chimney material before it goes indoors. But it works great for small fires outside!
(http://s21.postimg.cc/ao90odeo3/IMG_3748.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/ao90odeo3/)
(http://s21.postimg.cc/qb0a1qsg3/IMG_3749.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/qb0a1qsg3/)
-
I really think you should look into an ammo can stove. I made a couple and they work awesome. For the size of your hut, a lot of stoves in this thread while great, are overkill, in my honest opinion. Now if someone gives you one, or you find one for free by all means grab it but you can make an ammo can stove in a few hours for peanuts. This is one of my threads from a couple years ago that shows both stoves, including the second one that is smaller and a better fit (and much lighter) for my folding hut.
http://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=279097.0
here is a pic of mine in action on the ice:
(http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll282/moonman_016/1ddf3428-94b0-493c-8b0a-0aa4dff2defd_zps3a4f0aa9.jpg) (http://s291.photobucket.com/user/moonman_016/media/1ddf3428-94b0-493c-8b0a-0aa4dff2defd_zps3a4f0aa9.jpg.html)
You can cutomize as little or as much as you want, baffles, false bottoms etc etc. I made a little box for mine that doubles as a base and heat reflector, as well as carry case. It really is sweet.
Moonman.