auger dying between holes when tipped

[wisconsin rook]

Hi guys,

quick question - is it normal for augers to die everytime you tip them sideways.  i've heard its a carburetor problem, but i'm unsure.  is there anyway to fix the problem.  my auger runs great when cutting and when upright.  it just doesn't like being tipped sideways when walking between holes.

thanks in advance,
bill

[greenhornet]

bill
I don't know if it's normal or not, i alway's carry mine uprite between holes, i just wrap my arm around it, under the power head, after a dozen holes your arm will get sore but its a good work out and you stay plenty warm.

[RAY_A.]

never carry auger sideways after drilling gas could leak and hit hot muffler/exhaust and ignite seen it happen on the ice guy was severely burned.Butit does sound like a carb problem

[hammerhandle]

I have the same problem. I cannot remember because i never pulled out the gas auger last year, but if i tip it one way it stalls the other way is no problem. I would be very interested in hearing from someone that has corrected this problem. Also this auger seems to bog down most of the time unless it is really been running for a while.

[mnfishman]

Mine did that until I adjusted the low idle.  I can lay it on the ice and it will still idle.  Of course it is an older auger Strikemaster Mag III.  The new ones might have a safety on them that kills them when they tip...

[1_Pappy]

It would help greatly to know; make, age, what type of engine and serial number of engine.[ If you can see it. You may have to take off some cowling to fined it.]  All these things will help me determine the type of carb. used and make it easier to help you.

[Trevor]

I bought a brand new Strikemaster Mag 2000, three weeks ago.  Idles perfectly when laid on it's side...  I think you just need to adjust the idle, or clean the carb...

[Hoploholic]

I have the same problem. I cannot remember because i never pulled out the gas auger last year, but if i tip it one way it stalls the other way is no problem. I would be very interested in hearing from someone that has corrected this problem. Also this auger seems to bog down most of the time unless it is really been running for a while.

You may have some varnishing going on hh.  If you have left 2-stroke mixture in the tank and have not ran the carb dry before storing it, I would almost bet this is your problem.  Take it to your local small engine guy and have him clean it out for you.  Also, if this is your problem, next time you store it make sure the tank is empty then run it until it quits.  Good luck.

[1_Pappy]

On most of these 2 cycle engines the fuel pick-up is just a rubber tube going into the fuel tank with a filter on the end of it.  Both the tube and filter just flop around the tank.  They are not secured.  So..... your intake line may have gotten into a position that when you tip your auger the pick-up is sticking up and out off the fuel.  You can adjust this by reaching into the fuel tank w/needle nose pliers and reposition the inlet.  It also sounds like some of you need to adjust your low idle mixture.  Do this only when the engine is hot.  3-5 mins. of running.  Also as long as your playing with it you might want to change the filter!!!!

[fishfinder1]

Might be Carb or fuel problem. I Usually start mine upright then set it on its side to let it warm up. Purrs like a kitten in either position. Never had a stalling problem. My buddy does same thing. I have a Eskimo and he has a Strikemaster. Not trying to insult you but make sure fuel valve on gas cap is open all the way. This could be part of the problem. If not I'd Idle it up just a little. Good luck with finding a solution to the problem.

[LoneWolf]

I think 1 Pappy hit the nail on the head. If it's running fine except when it is tipped the fuel pickup line (with filter) is probably not positioned correctly. I had the same problem with my weedwhacker - only took about 15 minutes to fix.

[1_Pappy]

Hey Lonewolf,  Thanks!!  Been repairing small engines for 6 years and just like chain saws also, that is usually the problem.         1 Pappy  

[LoneWolf]

No thanks needed - when you're right you're right!

[wsb_bwhntr]

Pappy thanks for the idea - quick question though.  The auger dies immediatley after tipping at all.  It doesn't run out of the gas running through it and then dying, but instead immediately cuts out.  I had heard that it might be carb difference between a diapragm carb and a "needle" carb??  My buddy has a strikemaster with what he says is a diaphragm carb and he can literally flip it upside down and it runs.  Is it just a jiffy problem??  obviously I know next to nothing of engines, but I'm learning fast thanks to you guys.  I don't mean to question you pappy about the fuel line - just seems that it would take a little while to run the gas currently in the auger out before the pickup would be a problem.  Also what is the proper way to adjust low idle.  My auger idles good, but I've got it set pretty high.

By the way the auger is a Jiffy model 30, about 15 years old.  I can try to find some more info on it for you if it helps.

Thanks a million guys,
bill

[TJC]

I HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM WITH A USED AUGER I HAD PURCHASED. THE TANK WAS DRY AND I FIGURED THE DRAINED IT, SO I PUT GAS IN AND SOME CLEANER ADDITIVE. ITN STARTED RIGHT UP AND I HAD NO PROBLEMS THE FIRST TIME I USED IT. THE NEXT TIME I USED IT, THE AUGER WOULD STALL EVERYTIME I TIPPED IT. I PROCCEDED TO TAKE THE FUEL LINE OFF AND FOUND THE WHOLE LINE TO BE CLOGGED, IT MUST HAVE CLOSED THE LITTLE HOLE OFF WHWN I TIPPED IT. THE CLEANER MUST AVE DISLOGED EVERYTHING INSIDE AND PUT INTO THE FUEL LINE. SO I REPLACED THE FUEL LINE AND CLEANED ALL THE PORTS. THE AUGER RUNS ALMOST LIKE NEW.  

[tommyboy]

Bill,

This is just a suggestion because i'm not sure exactly what kind of carb you have.  Obviously, check the line and filter for any kind of blockage.  
If that checks out, you should move on to the jets, which may be out of adjustment or even the wrong ones if you bought it used.  This is especcially a problem for older engines.  Small engines like these (as opposed to a small motorcycle engine) are not balanced too well, and jets (especcially with old worn out or rusty springs) tend to rattle themselves out of adjustment.  
Next, i would move on to the float.  Instead of messing around with it, just replace it.  They are usually only a couple of bucks, and are a common thing to go.  even if there is just a pinhole in it, it can create a vaccum and instantly cut off the fuel to the engine.  If not properly stored, the floats are very susceptable to dry-rot, as well.
Finally, dont neglect the air filter (and dont try to make any adjustments to the engine without the filter in place.)  When an engine stalls, it typically spits some fuel/oil back out onto the air filter.  eventually, the fuel evaporates and you are left with a glue filter.
Also, a high idle is indicative of something not getting in smoothly.  It may be ait or fuel, or possibly too much oil.
If none of these works, you may have a more serious underlying problem.
I hope this helps, and good luck with it.

[1_Pappy]

All above suggestions are good!!!    But, now comes 2cycle carbruator lesson 101.....    There are 3 things in your carb. that you are conserned about now.  1. Diaphram  2. regulating needle  3.  Return spring for the needle.  The diaphram is like the fuel pump and works off of atmosphric pressure and vacum from the crankcase.  This in a roundabout way regulates the opening and closing of the needle.  When the needle is open, fuel comes into the carb.  Needle closed, fuel stops!!!  This is the ONLY FLOAT in the carb. Trust me!  If your problem is with the dia. do this.  With engine shut off, shake the auger upside down - right side up and do the hoochy.... never mind.  After shaking look at the carb. you should see one side is a plate with nothing attached to it and will have a small hole in the center.  This hole is the opening for the atmosphric air.  See if there is any gas coming out of it.  Can't tell?? Take out the 4 tiny screws holding on the plate and carefully remove plate.  Now do you see any leaks  If so remove it w/the gasket and replace it. Be sure to have your engine serial number when you go to get one.  DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING ELSE IN THAT CARB. I know it's tempting but HANDS OFF!!    Now for the idle mixture adjustment.  NOT IDLE SPEED.  You will have 1 or 2 screws on one side of the carb. Each spring is screwed into a spring,almost the dia. of the screw, and into the carb.  Now start your engine and leave it idle and warm up for about 3 mins.  Now take a screwdriver and slowly turn it counterclock wise until the engine starts to bog down. Make a mental note off this point.  Now turn the screw clockwise until it bogs the engine down.  Now choose a point half way between these two points and turn the screw to it.  Thats it!!!  Leave it. Go and try it out!!!  Now if there is a second screw right next to the first one, this is the high adjustment.  This is adjusted the same way but, have engine running at rpm you use for drilling holes.  Hope you understand my babaling, my wife says I'm not a too good explainer.  Hope I helped some if these things don't work I'd take it in.....     Good luck  -  God bless!   1 Pappy  

[war eagle]

Hi there ,I'm new to this forum and this is my 1st post/reply.Don't think it's gonna be a lot of help though.Had the same problem with an old (but like brand new) Jiffy model 30.Ran like hell the 1st winter I got it...2nd winter ,just like a lot of others ran like sh-t.Brought it to the local small engine mechanic he tuned it up and it ran fine EXCEPT for dying out if I even tilt it  to let's say a 1 o'clock position.Brought it to another shop explained the problem he said he put a new diaphram in it and adjusted the carb.Ya it ran good last winter,but still died out at the slightest angle off 90 degrees??? I know that this doesn't really solve your problem but maybe it will eliminate some possible questions if you bring it to a shop.While we're at it can anybody tell me why it seems every season I have to get the carb worked on to have it run the way it should. At the end of every season I drain all the fuel,and I mean ALL the fuel from the tank and carb then fog it,but I'm going on my 4th carb overhaul in as many years???