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Guys - I'm finally done with wasting time with finicky augers, and 30lbs of weight.Ideally, I would like to stick around 10lbs for an auger setup. I read a ton of the boards, and it sounds like regardless of K-Drill or Clam Plate and different bits, I the top tier is the Milwaukee Fuel 18v, followed by the DeWalt 20v both brushless, both LiIon.My only concern is here sometimes on Lake Minnetonka you can run into 30" of ice. If I need to drop $275 on a Drill I will. Just curious if the K Drill is as good as it looks, or if its basically a commodity vs my 6" bit from my old Strikemaster and a Clam Drill Plate (newer model so I don't have to remove a chuck)
Which Milwaukee has 1200lbs?
A month ago I purchased the Milwaukee 2704-22, the new Clam plate and the K-Drill to the tune of about $650. Really hope the combo lives up to all the hype. Can't wait to try it and offer a review.
I have ran my K-drill 8" for two years using the Mil 18vlt just like in the video. I also see "0" need for a Clam plate. The k-drill works great up to about 14" of ice and it still works great with thicker ice but at that point I want to drill holes at a faster rate and I switch to my Strikemaster but then again we do have quite a few days where we will drill 100+ holes.
Not using the Clam Plate will eventually lead to the side arm shearing off the lug on your drill.6" drills, Fin-Bore, Lazer, Mora or Nils no problem. 7" Lazer will tear off the lug after 50 to 100 holes.7" Mora needs the plate as the drill catches at break-thru as does the Lazer.8" K-drill actually cuts a 7½" diameter hole. Clam Plate makes using the drill/auger much more user friendly with all of the 8" augers. Fin-Bore, K-drill,Lazer, Mora, Nils,Strike-Lite.All of the 8" drills work best with the second generation Milwaukee M-18 1200"# drill or the Makita XPH07.
What do you mean by tear off the lug? I have the newest clam plate where you do not have to remove the chuck.Thanks!