IceShanty.com's Ice Fishing Community
Ice Fishing Tips -Check your local regulations! => Jigging => Topic started by: Home Wood on Nov 27, 2005, 03:36 AM
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When I say swivel I mean the black or brass piece that allows you to change lures and hooks by just unsnapping them. Is it ok to use them or should the lures be tied directly on the line?
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i prefer not using snap swivels through the ice. they seem to mess up the action of my jigs.
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That makes sense, I was just curious. If you are constantly changing jigs or lures it can get annoying cutting and tieing over and over. Thanks
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No snap swivel here because of what builditrite said.
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I usually tie right on. But sometimes on a new body of water when I know I will be changing jigs a ton to see what the fish like, then I may start off with a snap swivel. Once I find the right combo, them off it goes
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I usually keep one deep water rig with a snap-swivel (small,black). As mentioned above, for spoons you need a snap, or else a loop knot, or you lose most of the action of the lure. Most of my panfish rigs are tied direct, some are tandems rigged about 10-12'' apart. It's nice to have a variety ready if a bite developes, saves some frozen finger fumbling. Of course, I don't have a shelter, or heater yet, so changing jigs is sometimes more of an issue.
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I want to jig for lakers and rainbows mostly on lake Winnipesaukee in NH. I plan on using cut up sucker, but I am not sure of the proper jig to put the pieces on. I am used to seeing the big lead jigs with a bare hook to put plastics on and such. Would somebody post a picture or two or tell me where to find pictures of the jigs
I will want to use for this type of fishing?
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I tie direct for almost everything except jigging spoons. If I'm fishing walleye and expecting larger fish I'll sometimes use a snap swivel when fishing swimming lures. In such a situation the 6lb mono I use, I believe, does inhibit the lure's action somewhat. However when fishing perch I'll tie them direct as I don't believe light line ie: 2lb or 3lb will effect the action of the lures.
I especially don't use the snap swivel on non aggressive fish, especially in clear water. If you have ever watched your lure on an underwater camera you'll know what I mean. The addition of a swivel to a small lure can make it appear much larger and flashier than it actually is.
There are also some situations, such as on aggressive fish, where I believe the swivel will actually add an element of attraction to standard jigs as it provides a certain amount of flash and noise...
Trevor
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I want to jig for lakers and rainbows mostly on lake Winnipesaukee in NH. I plan on using cut up sucker, but I am not sure of the proper jig to put the pieces on. I am used to seeing the big lead jigs with a bare hook to put plastics on and such. Would somebody post a picture or two or tell me where to find pictures of the jigs
I will want to use for this type of fishing?
Homewood,
I like 1-1/2oz or 2oz roundhead bucktail jigs or Northland tackle airplane jigs. You can tip them with the sucker meat or a couple of shiners. Tube jigs also work well.
I make my own bucktail jigs. I just buy the standard leadhead jigs, unpainted. I dip them in vinyl paint usually red or yellow. Then I tie in the bucktail. I like black and white as it has a natural look. I also tie in some crystal flash for attraction. I always tie in a trailer treble hook with 40lb mono. Whipfinish and coat with epoxy. These lures are practically indestructable. Here is a picture of some of my laker jigs. The majority of the jigging I do for lakers is done with these jigs. I do however like to occasionally use a jigging spoon or bladebait. The six jigs to the top I made myself. The rest were purchased.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v14/tburke/lakerjigs.jpg)
Trevor
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Awesome, thanks for the helpful picture and thanks for all the tips. What is the proper way to work these baits on a jigging pole?
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If you are going to be changing jigs and don't want the excess size of the swivle/clevis, I have had good luck with these. They are called a no knot snap or something like that.
(http://www.mophomanners.com/lsfpics/i110700sq06.jpg)
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No snap swivel here because of what builditrite said.
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MNbourbot...I had never seen those befor...there is a lot less metal there to tangle up your jigs.
http://www.thornebros.com/winter/misc_gear/noknot_fassnap.html (http://www.thornebros.com/winter/misc_gear/noknot_fassnap.html)
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When I say swivel I mean the black or brass piece that allows you to change lures and hooks by just unsnapping them. Is it ok to use them or should the lures be tied directly on the line?
instead of using a snap swivel i use the rapala knot(http://jan.ucc.nau.edu/~cvm/fishing/knots/rapala.jpg)
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RPF....I have a strange feeling that you have a Rapala tatoo somwhere on your body..just a guess
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Awesome, thanks for the helpful picture and thanks for all the tips. What is the proper way to work these baits on a jigging pole?
Homewood, jigging for lakers is no different from fishing for others species in that you sort of have to experiment. The airplane jigs you can drop through the hole and watch the lure's action for a few minutes just below the ice. It's amazing the action you can get on these babies. They react almost like swimming baits. By watching the lure for a bit and getting a feel for it's action you can then maintain that mental picture of what your lure is doing in response to your jigging actions once it is down deep and out of site. You can basically get the airplane jig to swim in huge circles by pumping the rod tip. You can alternate the pumping action from slow and short to long and hard with occasional pauses(Hmm, this sounds like another favorite pastime of mine ;D ;))
For an injured baitfish type action you can hold the rod tip still, run the line over your index finger and work your index finger as though you are repeatedly pulling the trigger of a gun. Doesn't have to be too fast. About a pull per second or so. The natural action of the bucktail looks very lifelike in the water. Again you can watch the lure for a few moments just below the ice until you get a feel for this jigging action.
The key with lakers is to work the entire water column. Don't just drop your jig to the bottom and fish there all day. A typical day for me starts by first locating a key structure point where I wish to begin fishing. I'll punch about 20 holes roughly 50 feet apart in a large circular pattern leading back to the starting point. 99% of my laker fishing is in water from 20-70 feet. I'll drop the lure down the first hole and Immediately begin jigging about 6' below the ice. I'll jig at that level for several seconds then progressively fish deeper until I reach bottom. I'll stay there for a few minutes. If nothing I'll move on to the next hole and repeat the process rarely spending more than five minutes per hole. The way I look at it is after five minutes any nearby aggressive laker would have hit. I think you have better odds if you move lots. On the bitter cold days I'll often just wait it out over a known productive spot. After all, big lakers are well worth waiting for...
One more tip. If you fish with sonar. Keep an eye open for suspended schools of baitfish...
Trevor
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RPF....I have a strange feeling that you have a Rapala tatoo somwhere on your body..just a guess
How did you guess!!! Its right where the sun dont shine too : ;D (Just Joking)
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Great looking jig collection Trevor.
Thanks ;D When I head out for lakers I like to be well armed :D
Trevor
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Line twist is really a problem, if using vertical jigs they will spin from line twist if using a camera you will see this, less of a problem on horizontal jigs.
Have seen the problem on silver more than any other lake. The perch would swim up to it and check it out but swim away. Sometimes its the little things, that make all the difference.
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I've never been a fan of swivels. I use them when i'm throwing for monster pike, but that's about it. When it comes to a subtle vertical presentation, lure only.
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Thanks guys. Great advice Trevor! I can't wait to try it out. Can somebody recommend a good jigging pole? Like give me the brand and maybe model number of one I could order from, lets say, Cabelas or something.
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I always keep one pole rigged with a swivel for a search tool when fishing is slow to aid in changing lures and have not noticed it to ward off any takers. I like the look of those snap dealies and think I'll give em a try. We normally do not fish too deep maybe 60' max at times and do not think there is much line twist involved until retrieving anyway, but hey who knows.