IceShanty.com's Ice Fishing Community
IceShanty Main => General Ice Fishing Chit Chat => Topic started by: hardwater diehard on Dec 17, 2021, 01:17 PM
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33 inches of ice with various make and models of drill with different amp hour batteries.
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not the same power drills(inch pounds) so not going to be the same results.
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Yeah i stopped watching..the ridgid had a 4ah and then the Milwaukee 2804 has a 9ah battery.i stopped after that.of course the Milwaukee would do better.i was not impressed with that ridgid model drill but the battery was 2 small.the octane with 9ah rips thru ice.
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nice vid..I had the exact same experience with the ridgid and returned it for a milwaukee..it's been great for 2 years now..put a better rohm chuck on it and upgraded to a 12ah battery and it's been a beast
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First thats alot of ice..yes there is a mixed bag of drills more of a mixed bowl of fruit as opposed to an apple to apples test ..I believe the other Milwaukee was a 2702 w/500 in/bs of torque which really should not be in the mix ..but a lesson in under torqued powered drills ..and the Ridgid was the replacement to the Octane with less in/lbs of torque believe 800 in/lbs...I would of liked to seen any of the 900 series of Dewalts in that mix. but that Makita surprised me .
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Terrible test- I could have told him that the 750 In-lb Ridgid with a 4 AH battery was not going to work- I had problems with that drill until I went to a newer/larger battery. Even with a larger battery, 750 in-lb is below the recommended 100 in-lb/inch of drill diameter.
Everyone knows that to turn the largest bit through the most ice, you buy the biggest in-lb drill and the biggest battery, but that costs just as much as the purpose designed battery powered auger- so what is the point?
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Not an apples to apples comparison. I have a Menards brand Masterforce. It has an advertised 820 in lb of torque and does a great job with my HT Nero. I think most brands say 800 in lbs is about the minimum for an 8" auger.
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You guys are all concerned with him doing an apples to apples test. Obviously, this is not that. But imagine you're looking to get into the drill/auger-bit game. (Which I am.) This video would help out a great deal. Clearly a 4AH battery is underpowered. So now, whoever is on the market should realize, you'll need to spend a little extra to get more AH. Does 750 in/lbs torque cut it? Probably not. 18v vs 24v vs 36v? Well, you can tell that they can do the job. But you get what you pay for.
It's not an apples to apples comparison. But it's helpful to see a spectrum of different hardware and see what works and what doesn't. I already had the exact same Ridgid drill w/ a couple of 4ah batteries. So now I know that I will probably have to invest in a newer, more powerful drill.
Me personally, I thought it was fascinating the difference between the Lite Flite and the Pistol Bit. I was almost for sure going to go with the Pistol Bit, but now I may have to look at the Lite Flite that much more.
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maximus4444..nailed the total point of why I posted the video..check your PM
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I get it,but that ridgid with 6 or 9ah would have worked.giving someone that might already have that brand the wrong impression when all they need is a bigger battery.my ridgid didnt like working with a 4ah but rips with 6 or 9.but mine is the octane thats no longer made.
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My 4 amp original battery that came with my Fuel drilled a ton of holes for me with zero problems. A cheap drill with a big battery is still a cheap drill.
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I get it,but that ridgid with 6 or 9ah would have worked.giving someone that might already have that brand the wrong impression when all they need is a bigger battery.my ridgid didnt like working with a 4ah but rips with 6 or 9.but mine is the octane thats no longer made.
Yeah, I get that. Having a handful of different battery sizes for each drill model would have included more data.
But 6ah batteries cost north of $100. It looks like there's over $1.5k, maybe $2k, of gear in this test alone. This test was still a good collation of data. It's not all data from every drill and every battery configuration. But still very interesting.
I think you might have just signed yourself up to do some testing with the Ridgid drill and the 4ah, 6ah, and 9ah batteries! If I can keep my Ridgid drill and just increase the battery capacity, then it's possible I'll do that. I'm also interested in some testing with underpowered drills and the gear reduction plates like the Clam Drill Plate w/ Power Drive, and the Ice Kicker 2.
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Ive already tested my ridgid octane with 4ah,cutouts,9ah it rips ice with a 8" mora and ht edrill.i have seen a 6ah on a ridgid octane in action with a 8" mora and that cuts great too but less holes per charge over the 9.i would not buy the new ridgid drill but the old version ridgid 1300 octane works great.when it dies i will get a Milwaukee 2804.
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Even in batteries with the same AH rating, there are differences. So far newer cells have had a higher current capacity, resulting in better overall performance for the same AH rating when built into a pack. Even through the tools are compatible with all generations of batteries, that does not mean that all generations perform the same. Nothing we can do about it, but when testing, people can get different results depending on what generation of cell as well as capacity. From basic motor theory, torque comes from current, so the higher torque spec drills have to command higher max current from the battery, so there is a greater chance that you will be battery limited. The manufacturers do not make this clear, speccing the max torque without specifying the battery required to achieve it. I use this forum as the best way to pick a drill, but even then, reviews boil down to:
My drill and my auger works.
Those other colors are not as good as mine
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Those other colors are not as good as mine
haha - truth. i love green and gold though. i'm not seeing that as an option